You'd think, but apparently they haven't got much of a problem provided you don't alter or break the thing. Matter of fact, they installed these new meters last Summer and the way it was installed, I couldn't put my panel back over the hole. So I called and they sent an engineer out and he said he couldn't touch it. THey didn't want to take responsibility for any problems beyond the initial install. THen he goes on to say that I as the homeowner can certainly loosen the unions and flip the meter on to its side which would give the necessary clearance. Now the reason why he couldn't touch it beyond the initial installation was that to turn the meter on its side would require them to cut the pipe strap and that's not something they wanted to do. So, I did and did what needed to be done. Yep, no problem, but your correct in that they would prefer you not mess with it. Of course in the process of fixing valves and the like, whatelse would you do, they sure won't touch anything. :) On Nov 22, 2008, at 9:51 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:
> One quick tip in messing with the meter. Don't... That is owned by > the city and they get rather touchy about individuals messing with > their toys... If there's a problem make them come fix it. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott Howell > To: [email protected] > Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 8:26 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors > > I also have to chime in and say that I've used compression fittings on > sinks and other fixtures. I've not used it on an incoming supply line, > but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. I might have to get someone > such as a town Engineer come to shut off the water because I do want > to replace the valves on either side of the meter. I have two valves > with unions on each side so you can screw out the meter. Both valves > are the old gate-style valves that were not only installed upside > down, they are rather cruddy and do leak just a hair, I mean enough to > turn the knobs on the valves to feeling like they have rust on them. > Yep, it's really gross, but I've been trying to figure out what I'd > like to use in place. I might have someone come in and put in the ball > valves for me only since rigging this up with the meter and so forth > might be a little challenging to say the least. I've got to get back > in there and see how this thing is installed, but I think it would be > quite a trick to get the unions and valves all put back and the water > back up fast enough to keep my wife happy. grin. > > On Nov 22, 2008, at 7:04 PM, Alan & Terrie Robbins wrote: > > > Dale, > > > > I've been using compression fittings since loosing my vision. I've > > had very > > good success with them. I also have gone to flexible supply lines > for > > faucets, toilets, etc. I find them easy to work with and again have > > had no > > problems to date with them > > > > Al > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [email protected] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dale Leavens > > Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:38 AM > > To: [email protected] > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors > > > > They are more expensive but if you want to be really secure I'd go > > with > > compression fittings. You can remove them should you need to and you > > can > > always buy replacement ferrules for pennies if damaged when removing > > or > > otherwise handling the fittings. They are fairly expensive but > > usually you > > don't use many. These days you can usually even buy fittings like > > shut-off > > valves and stop cocks which attach by compression fitting. They are > > very > > secure and really very forgiving. I haven't used the 'T' or elbow > > fittings > > but now I really like the stop cocks. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Tom Hodges > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:18 AM > > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors > > > > Bob, > > > > Thank you so much for the information. I will research this on the > > Internet > > to find out if they have other fittings, such as T's, elbows, etc. > > This > > could sure save me a lot of time and expense (not to mention > > headache) if > > they work well. > > > > Tom > > > > _____ > > > > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected] > > ] > > On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy > > Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:07 PM > > To: [email protected] > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bights copper connectors > > > > I've used both the Shark Bights and the Gator bight or Gator grip, > > can't > > remember the right name for that one. One is from Lowes and the > > other from > > Home Depot. > > > > You do have to support them and I had the hardest time believing > they > > would > > actually seal. But they do, and work great. > > > > All you do is take 2 ends of copper you want to join, clean the burs > > off, > > and slide them together. If you remember those Chinese handcuffs we > > all > > had > > as kids? Your fingers went in really easy but the harder you pulled > > to get > > them apart the more it bit into your fingers. > > > > Just slide the piece on 1 of the ends and then put the piece over > the > > other > > pipe. Pull the pipes towards each other and your done. It takes a > > special > > tool to get them back apart. The tools come in a pack of 3 for > about 2 > > dollars so you know it isn't much. It's a plastic piece cut to fit > > in the > > slot on the Shark Bight and you just pull it towards the pipe and it > > opens > > back up. Don't know if you can reuse it after taking it back apart. > > I was > > a > > chicken once it came back apart and just put on a new one. I can > > tell you > > it > > takes no special skills and compared to running a torch inside a > wall, > > there > > is a lot less to worry about too. > > > > Both stores have them in the plumbing area and I'm not remembering > the > > price > > right now. Seems to me it was between 3 and 4 dollars. Well worth it > > if > > you > > aren't comfortable soldering. > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
