Fiberglass insulation has been shown not to dampen sound very much. Let me make sure I have the idea right though.
Are you making a shop in the basement and trying to wall it off from the rest of the basement as well as over head? We just did a noise reduction project in one of our houses. There is a type of caulk you can get and it goes on the back of the drywall. Never really hardens but it stops vibration from starting or continuing. We were told to use 5/8 drywall because it is rated much higher than half inch in sound deadening. There are also some sheets of vinyl with something like led in the middle that is supposed to work well too. We passed on that. When all was finished, you can't hear voices pass through the walls now. You can hear someone walking around overhead but much of that is because of hardwood floors. And my wife wasn't interested in putting anything between the joists to further deaden sound. I would think the acoustical tile will help with stopping sound from traveling upwards. It won't hurt to put something in the joist bays as well before closing them off. I would recommend some thick drywall first and then the tiles. That is extra insurance and that never hurts. Unless you are paying for it and then everything hurts... ----- Original Message ----- From: Dan Rossi To: [email protected] Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 1:34 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Noise reduction. So, in the fantasy world in which I live, one of my projects is to wall off one end of my basement to make a shop where I can go and make dust and noise without getting dust and noise all over the rest of the basement and house. I realize I won't make a sound proof room, but I would like to take some steps to reduce the amount of noise that will bleed out of the shop area. Here are some of my thoughts, any corrections, additions, or ridicules will be accepted. The wall will have a footer and header that are 2X6 instead of 2X4. Then there will be studs staggard two one edge or the other. Thus, there will be no stud that reaches from edge to edge, so no bridging. The cavity will be filled with fiberglass insulation. The dry wall on the shop side will be mounted to Z bars instead of directly to the studs. Lots of fiberglass will be stuffed up into the joist bays overhead and then acoustic tile as a ceiling. One major question I have is dot dot dot. The wall runs parallel to the joists, so should I run the top of the wall up between two joists, but not fix it to joists or floor and then stuff lots of fiber glass around the top edge, or do I absolutely have to fix the top of the wall to something. Obviously, there is a rigidity issue if I don't. The ends of the wall can be fixed to the cement walls of the basement, if that is enough of a substitute. Most of the sound will be high frequency sounds so doesn't fiber glass batting and sealing up cracks take care of most of that sound? Without trying to make a sound proof room, are there any other things I could do to reduce the sound bleed? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [email protected] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
