Many years ago I worked on lab equipment that was so sensitive it picked up
people walking on the concrete floor more than 30 feet away.  We lined the
bottom and sides of the cabinet with about 1/16 inch lead sheeting.  After
that you could walk right beside the equipment and not be detected.  It also
blocked speech the machine sometimes detected.
 
Tony

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kennedy [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 2:15 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Noise reduction.

Fiberglass insulation has been shown not to dampen sound very much.  Let me
make sure I have the idea right though.  

Are you making a shop in the basement and trying to wall it off from the
rest of the basement as well as over head?  

We just did a noise reduction project in one of our houses.  There is a type
of caulk you can get and it goes on the back of the drywall.  Never really
hardens but it stops vibration from starting or continuing.  

We were told to use 5/8 drywall because it is rated much higher than half
inch in sound deadening.  

There are also some sheets of vinyl with something like led in the middle
that is supposed to work well too.  We passed on that.  When all was
finished, you can't hear voices pass through the walls now.  You can hear
someone walking around overhead but much of that is because of hardwood
floors.  And my wife wasn't interested in putting anything between the
joists to further deaden sound.  

I would think the acoustical tile will help with stopping sound from
traveling upwards.  It won't hurt to put something in the joist bays as well
before closing them off.  I would recommend some thick drywall first and
then the tiles.  That is extra insurance and that never hurts.  Unless you
are paying for it and then everything hurts...

 


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 1:34 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Noise reduction.


  So, in the fantasy world in which I live, one of my projects is to wall 
  off one end of my basement to make a shop where I can go and make dust and

  noise without getting dust and noise all over the rest of the basement and

  house. I realize I won't make a sound proof room, but I would like to 
  take some steps to reduce the amount of noise that will bleed out of the 
  shop area.

  Here are some of my thoughts, any corrections, additions, or ridicules 
  will be accepted.

  The wall will have a footer and header that are 2X6 instead of 2X4. Then 
  there will be studs staggard two one edge or the other. Thus, there will 
  be no stud that reaches from edge to edge, so no bridging. The cavity 
  will be filled with fiberglass insulation. The dry wall on the shop side 
  will be mounted to Z bars instead of directly to the studs.

  Lots of fiberglass will be stuffed up into the joist bays overhead and 
  then acoustic tile as a ceiling.

  One major question I have is dot dot dot.

  The wall runs parallel to the joists, so should I run the top of the wall 
  up between two joists, but not fix it to joists or floor and then stuff 
  lots of fiber glass around the top edge, or do I absolutely have to fix 
  the top of the wall to something. Obviously, there is a rigidity issue if 
  I don't. The ends of the wall can be fixed to the cement walls of the 
  basement, if that is enough of a substitute.

  Most of the sound will be high frequency sounds so doesn't fiber glass 
  batting and sealing up cracks take care of most of that sound?

  Without trying to make a sound proof room, are there any other things I 
  could do to reduce the sound bleed?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [email protected]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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