Hi Dale Bob is right I have an I Beam through the middle of my garages directly under the main part of the house, when that I Beam is there your floor will not have any bouncy parts at all.
If you want to run lights or power cables through state this at the time of ordering it and the supplier can have those holes cut in for you. Check with your local codes as to the size of the I Beam needed and get it put in by professionals with the gear to manoeuvre and install it safely. Why I say that is if this Beam falls on you while you are trying to install it it is good by Dale. Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Sunday, 4 October 2009 6:11 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists? I have a 20 foot span I don't want posts in. I want to sister the joists but with spaces through which wiring and the like can pass. I also want to try to minimize lost headroom. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 2:42 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists? I don't know if banding would be stout enough for an old heavy house. Since steel is stronger and thinner, I'd be tempted to use some kind of I beam with screw jacks. That would take the bounce out of the floors. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 9:41 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists? Hi, It is too wet outside to do any work and I am contemplating a problem I have had since moving into this old building. The original house has floor joists rough sawn but only 2 by 8 on 24 inch centers. We have a springy and uneven floor. Some of it is also because at some point one of the heating systems required framing in a big cold air return and they clearly didn't shore up the floor when cutting that joist, someone long since removed all of the cross bracing. I don't see sistering or adding joists in the usual way because of plumbing, wiring and duct work and I don't want to add more posts and beams. It recently struck me though that I could build in place an open web joist, jack things temporarily up then fix the lower cord. This lead me to think perhaps a better way might be to jack tings up just a little above the desired point then apply a web of strap steel to either face of the existing joists on the diagonal. A series of 'V's so that the diagonal essentially forms triangles. This would allow me to continue to respect wiring. More stiffening might be achieved by running a length of angle iron along the top inside corner against the floor and the joist and run a bolt through it and the straps and similarly at the bottom of the joist, I wonder how much would be enough and how much too much. At some point it might be better to fabricate individual steel webbed joists and fit them between the originals but then they may serve the purpose of lifting the originals which would continue to be pulling down after nearly a century. Just kicking around ideas. I would like to preserve as much open space there as I can. I don't have reasonable access to engineering or architectural services. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
