Sorry haven't heard of the m type fitting.As for a valved manifold the only
place I have saw that is on the home improvement shows for heating with hot
water. Some were electric solenoids some manual for variable balancing of
flow. You might call a plumbing or HVAC supply house for a source. I have
probably 60 feet combined of piping and one main valve just off the compressor.
Doesn't take but a second to charge the lines. I turn this main valve off
when the compressor isn't in use as if a hose broke while I was gone or asleep
the compressor would run more than I would want. It will cycle about once
every 24-36 hours from minor leaks of the quick disconnects so it is easier on
the compressor to just not run it even that much..
I don't see a problem with type L copper. Isn't that what is used in air
condiatoners with up to 400 psi. Golly most air never goes past 125 normally
and many city water tops out at 90. Or is the L the softer rigid. Not the
rolled tubing is it?
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Leavens
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help with air fittings
Schedule L copper is bully acceptable, I assure you but that isn't really my
question.
What is an M-type fitting?
Do they make a manifold which includes valves?
Thanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Yearns
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help with air fittings
Just a comment or two. All my quick disconnect fittings came with quarter
inch pipe threads. Some places may have them in three eights, maybe just my
luck. I have been told to use only black pipe on air and gas as galvanized may
have pieces that flake off and may clog orifices. Galvanized was originally
made for water use. It does tend to clog with calcium over the years quicker
than copper can. Anyway for I think we all agree use black iron.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Kennedy
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help with air fittings
Sorry to be so late on this one. I have my shop set up with half inch black
pipe. Galvanized will work as well. What you can do is use a shut off valve in
the line you are branching to. this keeps the air pressure high where you want
it. I have a few runs, each one branches off of a T valve. I keep it to half
inch until I get to where the fitting goes and then have to use a half to 3/8
reducer. The quick disconnect will thread on to a 3/8 nipple.
Not sure about the term they are using there. I guess everything has to have
a technical name. I have always run my air lines just like plumbing other than
I don't use black or galvanized pipe for water.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Leavens
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 7:07 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Help with air fittings
I am looking or some help and information on air fittings probably from some
of you who hang around mechanics shops.
I am wanting to set up a bit of a network with a couple of points outside,
the driveway and the back yard for example and a couple of points at opposite
ends of my basement. There happens to be a sale at
boss tools but I am unfamiliar with some of the terminology.
There are a couple of 1 to 3 manifolds, one describes an M-style couplings.
What are m-style couplings?
I believe I would really prefer some sort of device which would permit me to
select which part of the network to charge with maybe a ball valve, if these
have such they don't describe them as such. Just that it seems unnecessary to
charge yards and yards of hose when I only need one.
Are you aware of such a device or must I fabricate some sort of panel?
There will probably be more questions in due course.
Thanks.
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