It will leave a lot of ripples on the edge of the wood. And everyone I've ever
talked to about their saw says you need an after market blade before it works
well. So all that print about blade tension may be a needed to put on a new
blade...
I have read you don't want much if any side to side deflection in the blade if
that helps. That also depends on the type of tracking system that came with
the saw. You can tighten blades that run between ball barring guides more than
others.
That is a huge well to jump into. Just do a search for band saw guide and
you'll get so confused it isn't funny.
----- Original Message -----
From: Max Robinson
To: Blind Handyman
Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 12:51 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Band Saw.
I finally got the new band saw put together. There really wasn't much to
put together, the table had to be mounted and the stop at 90 degrees to the
blade adjusted. The tracking and alignment adjustments were right on out of
the box. They didn't give much guidance on where to set the blade tension.
They spent a lot of ink telling how to turn the knob but didn't say where to
set it. One of the methods they talked about was to pluck the blade like a
guitar string. Trouble is they didn't even say what pitch to set it to.
That I could have coped with. The table came with a miter gauge which is
pretty useless due to blade drift. Does anyone have any hits on minimizing
it? I started making a triangular block to use as a single point ripping
guide and while making it I think I learned how to make a cut without it.
While looking through my modified monocular I cut a little then back up to
see where the kerf is relative to the line and make a correction if
necessary. It leaves a lot of saw marks but everything I have read says
that happens anyway even to fully sighted band saw users.
Regards.
Max. K 4 O D S.
Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
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