The way I've been told to set the Barings is to put a dollar bill between the
blade and the barring and feel some drag on the dollar. That way they aren't
in constant contact with the barring but there is also not very much room to
flex.
----- Original Message -----
From: Max Robinson
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Band Saw.
It does have ball bearing guides. There is a lot of space between the
bearings. Is it a good idea to tighten them up so they pinch the blade?
Regards.
Max. K 4 O D S.
Email: [email protected]
Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
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Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Kennedy" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 4:44 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Band Saw.
> It will leave a lot of ripples on the edge of the wood. And everyone I've
> ever talked to about their saw says you need an after market blade before
> it works well. So all that print about blade tension may be a needed to
> put on a new blade...
>
> I have read you don't want much if any side to side deflection in the
> blade if that helps. That also depends on the type of tracking system
> that came with the saw. You can tighten blades that run between ball
> barring guides more than others.
>
> That is a huge well to jump into. Just do a search for band saw guide and
> you'll get so confused it isn't funny.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Max Robinson
> To: Blind Handyman
> Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 12:51 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Band Saw.
>
>
>
> I finally got the new band saw put together. There really wasn't much to
> put together, the table had to be mounted and the stop at 90 degrees to
> the
> blade adjusted. The tracking and alignment adjustments were right on out
> of
> the box. They didn't give much guidance on where to set the blade
> tension.
> They spent a lot of ink telling how to turn the knob but didn't say where
> to
> set it. One of the methods they talked about was to pluck the blade like
> a
> guitar string. Trouble is they didn't even say what pitch to set it to.
> That I could have coped with. The table came with a miter gauge which is
> pretty useless due to blade drift. Does anyone have any hits on
> minimizing
> it? I started making a triangular block to use as a single point ripping
> guide and while making it I think I learned how to make a cut without it.
> While looking through my modified monocular I cut a little then back up
> to
> see where the kerf is relative to the line and make a correction if
> necessary. It leaves a lot of saw marks but everything I have read says
> that happens anyway even to fully sighted band saw users.
>
> Regards.
>
> Max. K 4 O D S.
>
> Email: [email protected]
>
> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
> [email protected]
>
> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
> [email protected]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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