You have a bunch of choices here. I will do my Mr. Rogers imitation for ya.
"Can you say pig tail? Sure ya can!"
One option is to run a line, I'm guessing the breaker box is in the basement,
from the breaker through the wall to the attic. I've done it like this before.
If I have to branch off for a bunch of lights, I'll run 12-2 from the box to a
junction box mounted in the attic. Then inside the junction box you can
continue with branch circuits. You only need 14-2 for lighting, but for my
peace of mind I make the first step the 12 and then step down to 14. I know
it's not necessary, but there are certain obligations to stay in good standing
with the bigger is better club...
From the junction box, no matter what size you run from the breaker, you have
the option of one or more lines tying in there.
If you choose to run only 14-2, the first junction box above isn't necessary.
Run your first line from the breaker box either to the main junction box, or
else to the first switch box. Inside the switch box, you'll need to break the
line. At this point, you will need to make a "pig tail" by joining the wires
in a wire nut. The two black wires that come about from cutting will need a
short length of black wire joined in the wire nut, and then run to the feed
side of the switch. You will need a short piece of white wire as well joined
in the wire nut. Just to be clear, there will be two separate wire nuts, each
joining three pieces of black wire in one, and 3 pieces of white in the other.
From this point, I would need a separate piece of 14-2 to continue on to the
light fixture.
If you don't run the pig tail, you will have to have each switch along the
way turned on in order for the next switch to have power.
There really isn't a short way I can think of to explain this method but
let's see if this works any better.
Keep in mind, the first junction box in the attic is optional, you can make
one run from the breaker box to the attic and branch however you choose. The
junction box just gives you options to run separate circuits from one central
place.
However you decide with the junction box, you run from the breaker, into a
switch box, and back to the attic. Now cut the wire inside the first switch
box and make your pig tail of 3 wires. Using the short pieces , those are the
pig tails, start a circuit for that switch.
Keep in mind every time you make a splice, or branch, or whatever you choose
to call it, the connections must be made inside a junction box. From what I've
read, that is pretty much standard code everywhere.
I'm sure there will be other ways described as well but I've used this way
and not caused a fire...
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Rossi
To: Blind Handyman List
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 9:56 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How many connections are feasible.
OK, lets say I've got this idea of having a single circuit for all the
lights on the second floor of my house. That way, if an air conditioner
overloads a circuit, or my wife throws the toaster into the shower while
I'm in there, none of the lights will go out. I believe it is pretty rare
for a light fixture to overload a circuit, although it is possible. But I
just thought it would be a cool concept to have a breaker that says, all
lights on second floor.
In my house, I think this is doable in that a 15 amp circuit can handle
1440 Watts. 1440 Watts is a hell of a lot of attic.
OK, so how do you wire this? I can't imagine that it works to run say six
or eight sets of wires from various light fixtures to one box, and one
power line. Then try and tie 7 or 9 black wires together and 7 or 9
whites together. I wouldn't think you could twist that many wires
together.
So, do you just run the power to the first fixture, then jump to the next
fixture, and daisy chain your way along, wiring a switch in parallel for
each fixture?
--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [email protected]
Tel: (412) 268-9081
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
