[uucdigest]          Monday, January 24 2000          Volume 03 : Number 103



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       RE: [uuc] Gas mileage
       [uuc] Re: MT COTY
       Re: [uuc] Mobile Tradition Parts CD (Where's the E28?)
       Re: [uuc] How to install sway bar?
       [uuc] Re:Head Gasket Question
       [uuc] Re: MT COTY
       [uuc] <E30 M3>  Spark plug tool
       [uuc] Re: [E36M3] Jim C. Intake dyno figures
       [uuc] Suspension modification advice.
       [uuc] SUSPENSION INSTALL ON E36
       [uuc] <m30> motor randomly cuts out
       [uuc] <OT> Detroit Auto Show Pictures

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:58:39 +1100
From: "Thomas, Andrew j" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Gas mileage

Ken asked, and others pondered:

>How the hell do you get 30 MPG on the highway?  

Easy. Buy imperial gallons :).

35 mpg at 85-90 mph was quite typical for a '95 318is, with around 25 mpg in
town. Knock a couple of mpg off when using non-premium petrol, and/or divide
by 1.2 to get US figures.
 
If only my .sig was as economical...

Andy T

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 19:21:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: MT COTY

Bill Weismann wrote:
>It's a bunch of reasons...
>1) COTY Seems fixed to me.
>2) They are decidedly non-decisive.
>3) They are so damned objective that it makes me sick.

How about just plain and simply their history of crappy picks for Car
of the Year.  One that sticks in my mind...1984...the Renault
Alliance....excuse me while I laugh, WAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

Seen one lately? Neither have I.

Carlos
PS  The Motor Trend TV show on Speedvision has a hot babe hosting it,
rrrrrr....  I'll give em points for that.


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 22:30:51 -0500
From: Phil Marx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Mobile Tradition Parts CD (Where's the E28?)

John Weese wrote:
>After almost a year now, I finally have a need for locating some parts
>(coolant hoses for my E28 M5), and the E28 isn't on the darn thing...why is
>that?  Can I get an update?  My version is Version 1.2 Mar '99.


Don't feel bad. On the motorcycle part of that same disc they don't include
the /5 models, made from 1969-73.  That's like not including the 2002!

I was told in October that the new release for this year (2000) will
include the E28 and that updates from that point on would be available as
downloads from the web.  We'll see.  The announced 2002 CD repair manual is
not completed yet either, though the release was announced as December '99.

- -Phil Marx
 BMW CCA #6021

******** Did you remember to vote in the CCA elections?  Get that post card
and mailing label and drop your ballot in the mail.  Postage is pre-paid.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 22:32:58 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] How to install sway bar?

> From: "Perry Shang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] How to install sway bar?
>
> Hi, all:
>      I just got my sway bars on Friday.  I am planing on installing this
> parts by myself.  After consulting with my E36 Bentley Service Manual.  It
> seems like it is a very easy task.  Some how, I think it is not THAT easy.
> Does anybody know or see how it is installed?  Any comments?  Do I need
> alignment after I install the parts?
>
> I have the whole suspension parts laying in my basement, I just want to
> install piece by piece, so I know what has improved or getting worse.
>
> thanks in advance.
>
> Perry.
> 95 325is sport.

Front sway bar is a piece of cake, shouldn't take you more than 15 minutes.

Rear sway bar really needs one of the rear springs to come out for removal
clearance.
To remove the spring, you need to disconnect the shock.

If you're doing all that and have new shocks and springs, well, you
know.....

Alignment will not have to be done after installation of sway bars or
shocks. However, it will be required after installation of springs.

Brett Anderson
www.koalamotorsport.com
Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 22:35:27 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re:Head Gasket Question

> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [uuc] Head Gasket Question
>
> I need some advice here,  About a week ago I would start it in the morning

Start what ?

>
> TIA
> Dennis

Brett Anderson
www.koalamotorsport.com
Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 22:58:00 -0500
From: Mark Borchik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: MT COTY

Just be glad that's ALL she makes you pick up for her!       --- Mark B.

Bill Weismann wrote:

> I hate:
> MT
> Consumer Reports
> And Cosmo because my girlfriend makes me pick it up for her and I feel
> like a pervert in the checkout line.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 21:14:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30 M3>  Spark plug tool

I picked up a used spark plug tool ($10), and having never owned such a
tool, I'm curious what other tool is used in combination to turn this
sucker.  By the way the spring that holds the two pieces together is
broken so I may either rivet the two pieces together or weld them.  I
have no other tools in the trunk kit, the gorilla who previously owned
my car took them all out.  Wonder if they're good for opening coconuts
as well? ;-) 
I'm guessing it must be some sort of rod, perhaps the one used hold up
the wheels temporarily?  By the way if anyone has an extra, I'd be
happy to buy it from you.

Carlos
91 M3 minus tools, gorilla owned edition
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 21:32:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: [E36M3] Jim C. Intake dyno figures

- --- Wayne Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I know, I know. I am not supposed to be posting anything about the intake
> but this post is a little different than all of the others. All of the other
> posts complained back and forth that there was no dyno chart of a car with
> the Jim C. software AND the intake, only one or the other. Mine is different
> because I just got back from a dyno session where I ran my car with the Jim
> C. intake AND the stock intake (minus the plastic intake thingy at the front
> because I forgot it..whoops) on the same dyno on the same day with the same
> conditions. I actually made 4 runs configured like this:
> 
> 1) Jim C. intake and hood open
> 2) Jim C. intake and hood closed
> 3) Stock intake WITH baffle and hood open
> 4) Stock intake WITHOUT baffle and hood open
> 
> Before I get into the results, I first want to thank Tony Devos from
> International Dynamometers NZ Ltd. (http://www.dynapack.com) for bringing
> the dyno for us to use. The dyno, a Dynopack 3000, is a portable one that
> attaches to both the rear hubs and was pretty cool - you can read all about
> it on their web site. I also want to thank Don from Autosport Performance
> (201-816-0911) for hosting all of us and Steve D. from The Ultimate Garage
> (http://www.ultimategarage.com/) for arranging all of this.

I definitely owe a big thanks to Tony Devos who put the pedal to the metal
while the car was in 5th gear and revved it up to 7000rpms =)  Woo-hoo!  How
fast would the car be going in that gear?  Man....the car is loud!  A big
thanks to Don Fields of Autosport.  He knows a wealth of information about
bimmers.  Guess where my car is going when the warranty runs out?  =)  He had
an 8 series, 318ti w/ M3 engine, Porsche up on a lift, engine block here,
engine head, there, complete exhaust system hanging on the wall.  Very cool. 
And an especially big thanks to Steve D who set aside two personal weekend days
to entertain us car freaks.

> First, the caveats. THIS WAS A DEMONSTRATION RUN AND THESE RESULTS ARE
> CALIBRATED TO NOTHING. This is not to say that any of the information is
> incorrect but all we did was hook up the car and run it - Tony told me to
> make sure that it was clear that this was a demonstration. Nobody involved
> had anything to gain or lose, no matter what the outcome hence, it was an
> unbiased test. Personally, I have been very happy with the sound and
> performance of the intake and would recommend it. The car is a 99 M3 (OBDII)
> with the Jim C. software including the update for the intake and a
> SuperSprint exhaust - there is no other engine work on the car, yet. A
> correction factor was applied to the graph to show crank HP NOT rear wheel
> HP. I am not sure exactly what the correction was but maybe Chester can
> comment on that when he gets home.

Yes, these weren't controlled conditions.  No one had a barometer or
thermometer.  What we were after was a feel for the relative gains.  Here's a
breakdown (bulleted form):

Wayne's car:
- - 99 M3/2 (11,000 miles, right?)
- - Supersprint exhaust
- - JimC intake
- - JimC software
- - JTD tranny brace

My car:
- - 99 M3/2 (almost 17,000 miles)
- - AA exhaust
- - JimC software

The correction factor was 18% so just divide the HP numbers by 1.18.

<snip>

> What does all of this mean? First, the answer to everyone's question: there
> is about a 10-11 HP increase at the crank with the Jim C. intake over the
> stock intake. Second, all of you that "felt" that you car was much faster
> with the baffle removed were wrong.

Yup...just the placebo effect of hearing the car more I guess.  Too bad we
didn't have the snorkel to fit to the car as well.

> When you see the graph, you will notice
> that the curve with the baffle is a HAIR better than the curve without it.
> Third, removing everything gave a nice increase but Chester has the details
> about that so I will let him tell the tale.

Don suggested that we bypass the mass airflow sensor altogether.  So he
unfastened the hose clamp and let the little corner elbow connected to the
throttle body breathe freely.  This setup triggered a check engine fault of
course, but Don had the equipment to set me straight afterwards.  With the
change, we saw a consistent 3-4 HP increase at the crank going to a peak gain
of 10 HP (crank) gain at ~6000 rpms.  Don spoke so fast and mentioned how the
computer will recognize the "bad" MAF and set the water temp to 88 degrees
celsius (I think) and will run well.  He also mentioned something about limp
mode and that the ideal scenario would be to get the OBDII computer to run at
the above conditions without entering the limp mode.  Without any airbox
whatsoever, my HP plot looks very similar to Wayne's w/ the JimC intake.  Would
my car have benefitted from the JimC intake?  I dunno....it would have been
nice to swap it around, but we didn't want to take up the guys' time.  Would my
car have benefitted if I simply removed the paper air filter in one of the
runs?  I dunno....something we forgot to do to see the airflow reduction of the
better filtering medium.  DAMN!  Hopefully someone 'round here will buy one of
these bad boys ($50k) and we can have some more fun =)

At any rate, I was quite suprised to see 220 ~ 229 HP at the rear wheels!  Oh
my gawd!  Should that figure be something I should be proud of?

About the Dynos:

In order to use these dynos, you remove the rear wheels and bolt on these auto
centering hub adapters.  Once these are on, they slide the adapters into a
receiving end of a 300 - 400 (or more!) box.  Once that happens, the remove the
supporting device and the car sits as if it was on wheels, but it's not.  They
start the car up and start off in 5th gear.  I believe there is no load on the
wheels until you hit 3000 rpms (I think this setting is user adjustable).  Once
you hit that point, the dynos "grab" and apply drag on the wheels to hold it at
3000rpms.  Even with the operators foot with the pedal to the metal, the dynos
hold it at a specified rpm.  Once the testing begins, the rpms increase in 100
rpms increments until you hit the user selectable limit (in our case 7000
rpms).  Very cool.

One thing everyone noticed was a little engine shake when first starting the
test.  No doubt from trying to spin the wheels in 5th gear and the shortened
clutch throw from my UUC clutch stop ;)  But Wayne's engine didn't move nearly
as much.  Perhaps from the JTD brace?  I dunno.  There was also a strange
almost diesel like sound coming from my engine bay area during the testing.  I
dunno.  It seemed to be independent of engine rpm, but certainly followed a
certain frequency (once every half to full second).  Any ideas?

I also had a chance to hear engine pinging courtesy of some of the E30M3s
there.  =)  Man, those car literally stunk!  Maybe they didn't have cats or
something, but many spewed black smoke and made me run outside for a breathe of
fresh air.  Wayne and my car?  No stink!  =)  He he....

Also, when I first arrived at the shop, I saw a nice Techno Violet '98 M3 w/ a
'95 OBDI engine transplant (bored and stroked to 3.5L) w/ a RMS
supercharged/aftercooled setup.  Whoa!  I think we saw 340HP at the rear wheels
(or maybe crank...I dunno).  The supercharger was also quieter than Alex
Demsky's unit.  Something about it being a newer design.

Disappointment for the day:  Some dude brought a '84 or '87 Ferrari there to
dyno.  Spent all this time trying to figure out how to get the car in the air
only to realize that the hub adapters won't fit because the wheel bolts are too
long!

Poseur of the day:  Some 318i that was involved in an accident that had all the
M3 body panels and then some installed.  What were they thinking?

Surprise of the day:  A brand spanking new carbon black '00 M5 rolled in.  Only
250 miles on that baby.

I was glad to meet a bunch of you.

ttyl,
Chester

Sorry for the delay.  I had such a headache from waking up early and then
sniffing all that crap from those damn E30s  =)

With the new found HP numbers, Wayne and I reached 25 mph on the Turnpike. 
What a hoot.  Yes Wayne, ya lost me after you cut that semi off....  =)

=====

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 21:33:44 -0800
From: Jim Ettinger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Suspension modification advice.

Hello,
    I am new to this list. I am looking for advice on improving the
handling of my car. I recently purchased a 323Ci (E46) with the sport
package. I don't plan to drive the car on the track. This is my daily
driver and I want to maintain a comfort level. The factory's sport
package handling is not precise enough for me. I would appreciate advice
from people on this list on how to improve the handling.
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 00:47:59 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] SUSPENSION INSTALL ON E36

HI TO ALL!

here's the deal...I have a 1995 E36 4-door 325i.
I aquired a complete M3 suspension (well, mostly complete...but that's 
another story! didn't get the rear springs!) from a 97 M3 a few months ago 
and i'm finally going to have it installed. By complete i mean not only the 
shocks, springs, swawbars...but also front control arms, brakes,etc and 
complete rear assembly including diff carrier, brakes, etc...

so onto my questions:
from what i've been able to find out...but i'm not positive....i should be 
able to use my existing halfshafts with the rear m3 trailing arms? supposedly 
the splines from the shafts are the same in both the 325i and the m3? can 
anyone confirm?.....the rear wheel bearing are diff...so i wonder if its 
possible? i have heard that i could keep my existing diff...change the drive 
flanges to m3 flanges and then use m3 shafts...but if i can...i'd prefer just 
to keep my existing flanges and shafts..

now, although i have access to both a lift, air tools, etc...i don't have the 
time to tackle this project myself...although i know i'd love to! and even if 
i did have the time....installing the front isn't an intimidating 
project...but the rear...little more so...

so i can either take it to my dealer to get the work done...or
does anyone know a good mechanic in the northern nj area that could do a job 
like this?...if so, please let me know...

thanks in advance!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 22:13:05 -0800 (PST)
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <m30> motor randomly cuts out

 Still have a random cut-out problem in the ol' supercar.  Replaced
main relay, fuel pump relay.  When it cuts out, the tach drops (even
though the engine is still coasting in gear) but the other gages
remain unchanged.  Motor always re-fires in a second.  It seems that
either the DME or the engine speed sensor are flaking.  Any "been
there done that" comments?
 Are speed sensors known to go bad?  Are DME units known to fail
randomly like that?  FWIW, the engine is a euro 3.5 from a '83 735 -
Motronic 1.0 "011" unit.  No known wiring problems - grounds ok,
cannot make it cut out by physically whacking things or tugging on
wiring harnesses.
 Any suggestions appreciated...

- --
  John Bolhuis  | "In America it is not considered to be mentally ill
 bolhuijo       | when a woman advances on her prey in a discotheque
  @bolhuijo.com | setting with hardy cocktails present."
                |                                      -Madonna

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 22:47:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Thomas Koch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <OT> Detroit Auto Show Pictures

Here's another website with some great pics including some really nice
ones of the new M3. Check it out:
http://members.xoom.com/jason323Ci/detroit_auto_show.htm

Thomas Koch
NY Chapter CCA
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------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #103
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