[uucdigest] Monday, January 24 2000 Volume 03 : Number 105 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] re: "M" Provenance Re: [uuc] Re: Belt Dressing (Belt Squealing) [uuc] Purchase decision help: E30 M3 vs. E36 Coupe (Long, please help me!) [uuc] Re: BDI [uuc] A032's and Khumos [uuc] RE: BDI (not BIDI) bike rack [uuc] Updated my site [uuc] <E30> Custom made Free flow Exaust [uuc] Re: <m30> motor randomly cuts out [uuc] Making a newer BMW handle/feel like a 'classic' BMW [uuc] LSD and ABS in the snow [uuc] <Tech> LSD and ABS in Snow. Re: [uuc] <E30 M3> Spark plug tool ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:02:37 -0600 From: "Ray Kang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: "M" Provenance Andy T wrote: >... but the order of the M635CSi and M5 should, I believe, be reversed. Some >M5s were made in 1984, before the first M635CSi in 1985. Based on what I can glean from BMW M Series Performance Portfolio from Brooklands Road Test Books, the M635CSi was introduced in early 1984 to the German market with the press being allowed to drive pre-production cars in January of 1984 (MotorSport March 1984). The M5 was officially introduced to the German market in February of 1985, with 25 cars being delivered to customers prior to the official introduction, as BMW Motorsport custom orders (M Twice June 1985). The 1984 and 1985, M635CSI and M5 respective introduction years is also backed up by Jonathan Cohen's BMW M Series and Performance Specials book. If any of you have one of the 25 M5 cars delivered prior to February 1985, you have a very rare car, built for BMW's best customers, as a special order by BMW Motorsport. Ray Ride with the Best! http://mnhsta.freeservers.com/ Fast toys, and fast rides lead to stories! http://www.users.uswest.net/~kkang/Ray%20Page.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:31:44 -0500 From: Eurowerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Belt Dressing (Belt Squealing) John, All of the ancillary drive belts have their own adjustments. The P/S is easily adjusted from the bottom of the car, as is the A/C. The alternator is adjusted from the top. Be sure not to over tighten the belts as this will cause pre-mature bearing wear in the over tightened component!!! [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > My son's '87 325is does the same thing, unitl the engine warms up a bit...has > new water pump, belts, fan clutch, timing belt and tensioner...all new stuff, > and it started "squealing"...is it just an adjustment? > > Where can I adjust the belts? Alternator? > > John Weese > Nittany Bimmers Chapter > 6 Bimmer Family - -- Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 606-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / www.euromajic.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:46:43 -0500 From: "Steve Andersen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Purchase decision help: E30 M3 vs. E36 Coupe (Long, please help me!) Hello, I don't wish to start a flame war with this, but I am soliciting facts and opinions on the relative merits of the E30 M3 and the E36 coupes. I am looking for a car which will serve me as a practical daily driver (although bad weather and Home Depot runs will be handled by my Previa all-trac minivan/enclosed pick-up truck). I need the car to be manageable and practical in day-to-day driving, but the fun factor must also be high. I also need the ability to carry a few kids in the car as they get older and I have to make pick-ups from soccer practice. I have budgeted about $12k as a baseline, however I would be willing to extend that a bit for the right car. It appears that I would have a relatively easy time hitting this for either a nice, but higher mileage M3, or a higher mileage 325is. The M3 speaks to my heart, while the E36 speaks to my head as more practical. The cars may see an occasional track day or autocross, and both are likely to be modified to some extent in the future. The M3 would likely see wheel/tire change, as well as eventually (when called upon) a rebuild to 2.5l. The E36 would likely see modifications of wheel/tire, and suspension/brakes at least up to E36 M3 standards. Eventually a driveline swap from an E36 M3 could even enter the picture. Turbos would not be ruled out if I got a bit crazy. I have been reading this list for about 6 months, and a member of the E30 M3 SIG and mailing list for about 3, so I have at least absorbed that much info... Anyone provide me any insight as to pros/cons of daily use, occasional track use, maintenance headaches, modifications, etc.? I have yet to actually drive the E30 M3, however I should be changing that at lunchtime today (going to look at one locally). If it matters, my wife likes the E36 better, as she thinks the E30 M3's front/rear spoilers are a bit "cheesey" looking ( <-- Flame bait). Making this decision is a great problem to have, but it is a problem!!!! Thanks for your input, Steve Stephen M. Andersen (302) 326-6405 Project Manager FAX (302) 323-6099 AdvanTek International, LLC 56 Read�s Way [EMAIL PROTECTED] New Castle, DE 19720 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:40:17 -0800 (PST) From: stu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: BDI BDI bike rack is a real POS. I bought one and it failed going down the freeway -- damaged bikes and our almost new 98 M3/4. Not a happy camper. BDI would not respond to any of my inquiries concerning repairs or refund. It's basically a bad design and poorly made, If I were to get another it would be a rooftop. Lots of good ones. I don't think it makes any difference aeodynamically, especially on a 3 series. Couple of bikes on the back really looks junky nayway. Car's just too small. I filed a complaint with the better business bureau. If you have other questions let me know. Stu ABQ, NM ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:43:25 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] A032's and Khumos Donna: Thanks for the post. I am getting ready to buy a set of R's and haven't yet decided which way to go, Khumo or Yoko A032. These will only be used on the weekends for around town fun runs, for instructing at a school or two, and during two BMW CCA Club Races. The track, Virginia International Raceway, is about 90 minutes away. I just want to be able to get back home if it's raining. Looking at Khumo 205/55/14 and Yoko 195/60/14 (they don't make a 205 Yoko) What are your thoughts? Carter Hunt 84 325E L-Stock (and weekend street use, 3k miles per year) In a message dated 01/24/2000 10:29:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 18:25:40 -0800 From: Donna Seeley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] tire question on 95 m3 My input on the A032s and SO2s: I've had A032s on my 95 M3 since Sears Point in October and I have them on the 88 now. In empirical testing last week and today, in both cars, I have found that they are _not_ good rainy street tires. Not a fun drive home when you leave the R-compounds on a day too long! A032s are better than Kumhos for wet traction (yup, tested those too), but I'm glad to be back on the SO2s. The A032s are very noisy. In the 95, I have to turn up the radio at about 45mph. They're not as bad on the 88, but those are 205's, not 235's. Donna >> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:01:02 -0800 (PST) From: stu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: BDI (not BIDI) bike rack BDI bike rack is a real POS. I bought one and it failed going down the freeway -- damaged bikes and our almost new 98 M3/4. Not a happy camper. BDI would not respond to any of my inquiries concerning repairs or refund. It's basically a bad design and poorly made. If I were to get another it would be a rooftop. Lots of good ones. I don't think it makes any difference aeodynamically, especially on a 3 series. Couple of bikes on the back really looks junky anyway. Car's just too small. I filed a complaint with the better business bureau. If you have other questions let me know. Stu ABQ, NM ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:20:16 -0600 From: "Holeman, David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Updated my site Hi, I have taken my web site through a complete face lift since it was mpower.com now www.racepad.com <http://www.racepad.com> . I have added some additional technical sections on how to change your rear shock mounts as well as several other sections. More are on the way. Please take a look and I would appreciate any feedback to help make the site better. David Holeman www.racepad.com <http://www.racepad.com> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:23:40 -0500 From: dstevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Custom made Free flow Exaust Hi Has any one out there made their own free flow exhaust using a dual in dual out muffler like a Flowmaster or a Dynomax? Does anyone have a high performance catback system like a SuperSprint for sale for the E30 325IS? ______ o/______\o (Oo=00=oO) []=****=[] Thanks Don Stevenson/BMWCCA Boston Chapter 1988 325IS, (too much to list), should have stayed the street car. (Sharked) 1987 325IS, project, should have been the track car. (Sharked) 1988 Volvo 240 Wagon 5 Speed. (Green Wheels) This message is intended for the addressee only and may contain privileged or confidential information. Unless you are the intended recipient, you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone any information contained in this message. If you have received this message in error, please notify the author by replying to this message and then kindly delete the message. Thank you. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:34:59 PST From: "Curt Kiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <m30> motor randomly cuts out Once again Brother Mario has hit on a hot spot of common trouble. After I washed the engine bay (low pressure) the darn connector rubber boot actually TRAPPED water and caused the problem. This doesn't only apply to the AFM connector. All of them can corrode and give temp, driveability (thermo-time switch), and other fits. It's easy to pull them and do an inpspection. I've assumed that you've already done the fuse box thing. Changing the relay's was the smart thing to do though. Good luck and when I was "been there-done that" they were'nt handing out T-shirts! ;-) Curt Kiser 88' M5 86' 325 <snip of two posts> John Bolhuis wrote: Still have a random cut-out problem in the ol' supercar. Replaced main relay, fuel pump relay. Mario replies: John, Check the connector related to the AFM in particular the one between the AFM that is in the harness between the AFM and the intake manifold. I have seen the connectors corrode, wires fatigue and break causing precisely what you describe. <end snips> ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:33:42 +0800 From: Jay Sala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Making a newer BMW handle/feel like a 'classic' BMW Here's a serious question: To what extent can a newer BMW (e.g. E36, E39, E46) be *modified* so that it regains more of the tossability/nimbleness, feedback, handling balance and greater fun-to-drive-at-the-limit factor of the older BMWs with the 'classic' feel (e.g. 2002, E30, E28)? (For the sake of discussion, let's assume that the newer cars -- good as they are -- are not as good as the older BMWs in these areas). Recent posts have indicated that as newer BMWs have gained refinement (probably a good thing overall), they have also felt more isolated and been tuned for 'dumbed down' handling, providing less tactile feedback through the steering and the seat, less aural feedback/music, a clear bias to understeer, etc. Question 1: To what extent will a firmer suspension (springs, shocks, anti-roll bars), alignment changes (to reduce understeer and quicken turn-in), a louder intake and exhaust, and same-size tires all around make a newer BMW as fun to drive at the limit as older one with the classic feel? Are there other things you need to do? How radical must you go to do so, and how much refinement or streetability do you give up? What do you think of the examples below? o A review of a heavily-modified AC Schnitzer E46 328Ci in BMW Car (a European magazine) said that the car felt stiff and responsive and, unlike the stock car, provided tons of feedback to the driver. Could this be as fun at the handling limit as an E30 M3 or an E28 M5? o Hartge-modified E36s with tuned/matched upgraded suspensions are reported to feel very connected to the road yet ride smoothly even with 19" wheels o Dinan E36s have more neutral handling than stock, sometimes even tending towards oversteer Question 2: Is there something *inherent* in the *design* of newer BMWs apart from lots more sound deadening material (e.g. numb steering racks, suspension configuration (multi-link vs. semi-trailing arm, etc.) that prevent them from being *modified* to be as entertaining to drive hard as the older models? Will a newer BMW always be less entertaining and more refined? Inquiring minds need to know so we can get more out of our cars .... I hope that you people who have extensive experience with both older and newer BMWs, both stock and modified, can share your experience. Please note that this is not meant to be a criticism of newer BMWs. I personally have an E36 328i with a relatively mild suspension (M3 spec) and love the car tremendously. I simply want to understand to what extent we bimmerphiles can take a newer BMW -- already a relatively sporty car -- and sharpen its edge without losing too much refinement. Maybe there is no free lunch, but there are better compromises that we can strike. I'll follow the discussion thread and summarize later on. Jay Sala BMW CCA, Golden Gate Chapter E36 328i __________________________________________ NetZero - Defenders of the Free World Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:51:18 -0700 From: Bruce McReynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] LSD and ABS in the snow In the snow, LSD and ABS are better than not having them, but just a little. My commute is about 35 mi. most at over 7000 ft. elevation. (We get snow in northern NM.) Normally, if likelihood of snow is high, I don't drive M3. (BFG 15" 205/55 VR4's.) Occasionally, I guess wrong. Happened in early December. Lots of snow falling and about 1" accumulated on roads. Traffic on freeway comes to dead stop on hill leading into Santa Fe. So I'm gonna be tricky and take a side road. Traffic on side road comes to dead stop - multiple car pile-up. Have to retrace route. Lots of 60-90 degree slides and catches. LSD keeps right rear spinning slightly while it hangs over verge. Forward momentum maintained, but just barely. One very interesting backward slide at approx. 3-5 mph. Bounced off something VERY lightly, and rearward momentum translated to forward. Made it home in about 2.5 hours - exhausted. Turns out rear wing touched something (tree branch?) to translate momentum. Paint popped up a bit, but no real structural damage. Lesson: make better guesses. With these tires, LSD, etc. might save your ass, but just barely. Bruce McReynolds Santa Fe - the City Different - NM '88 M3 - evolving '89 635CSi BMWCCA 127260 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:54:24 -0500 From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <Tech> LSD and ABS in Snow. Carlos Lopez asked about LSD and ABS. ABS is not meant as much to reduce stopping distances as to ensure the retention of steering control. As far as I can understand, a non-ABS car often stops quicker in snow because the wheels lock, pile snow ahead of them and this piled snow blocks the wheels. Obviously ABS avoids this and increases stopping distances in snow. In ice, which cannot pile up, things may be different. Also, in situations when a few wheels are slipping and others aren't, etc. If you imagine yourself as the ABS chip programmer and think about what inputs you have at your disposal - wheel speeds, perhaps an inertial yaw sensor, brake pedal position, etc. - you will find that it is very difficult to work out what the car is really going through. The chip has no way of looking at the tree the car is heading towards and saying, "Ah, I'm doing roughly 10 mph!" For example, if all wheels are locked and the car is sliding, how is this different from all wheels locked and the car standing still? And so on. . .. All this stuff is not easy to do (people get PhDs determining the exact algorithm to use to determine which wheel is slipping from the toothed ring things. Actually one of my brightest friends does this for GM's Traxxar and he did get his PhD is similar controls stuff.) and limits the function of ABS. Hence, DSC, etc. More contols, more sensors, perhaps even a digital eye in the future or GPS reference for speed and heading! LSD is again meant to put torque down so that, up to a point, it goes equally to both rear wheels. With an open diff. a spinning wheel gets all the power. With LSD, both get the same. This is meant to get you going in the snow, much like it is meant to ensure acceleration on the track. Getting you going straight is not an LSD claim! A non-LSD car tracks better because even as one wheel spins the other, probably stationary, acts as a kind of anchor and tracks the car. A spinning wheel (such as in LSD) has no tracking capacity. Hope this helps! Neil Deshpande 1988 325 iS - LSD and ABS 1989 325 iC - LSD and now with repaired ABS! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:00:16 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30 M3> Spark plug tool I'm not positive, but I believe the tool in my M3 tool kit that is used along with the spark plug tool is nothing more than a chromed steel rod with . The one tool I'm missing is the spark plug tool, believe it or not.... at least I think the spark plug tool belongs in that empty void in the tool kit compartment. - - Ezra Silver Lake, CA '88 M3 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #105 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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