[uucdigest] Monday, January 24 2000 Volume 03 : Number 106 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: [M3] Purchase Decision Help: E30 M3 vs E36 coupe (not flame bait...) Re: [uuc] <E36> Battery Changing Tips? [uuc] thermostat housing [uuc] <FS> 16" twin spoke wheels&tires [uuc] active billboards [uuc] <Tech> More Power in Cold Implies More Gas! Re: [uuc] thermostat housing Re: [uuc] thermostat housing [uuc] light test [uuc] <E30> Need some help diagnosing idle problems [uuc] X-Brace Installation and Cosmoline Removal Re: [uuc] active billboards [uuc] Re: Quaife Differential? [uuc] Re: MT COTY Re: [uuc] thermostat housing [uuc] set bmwuucdigest digest RE: [uuc] thermostat housing ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:07:37 -0800 From: Eric Fournier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [M3] Purchase Decision Help: E30 M3 vs E36 coupe (not flame bait...) > The M3 speaks to my heart, while the E36 speaks to my head > as more practical. The cars may see an occasional track > day or autocross, and both are likely to be modified to some extent > in the future. Test drive as many as you can. You'll find good examples and bad. You'll find that the E30 M3 speaks to your soul. ***It's all about what happens when you're behind the wheel.*** There are two kinds of people in this world: those that follow their heart (happy people) and those that follow others (worry warts, wiggers, people who regret). It's your car, who cares what the wife thinks... (coming from the mouth of a single guy..) Eric - not yet with my morning coffee GGC 87 E30 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 9:25:30 PST From: Steven Saunders <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36> Battery Changing Tips? [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote asking: > Surely the little tube would blow off first? relating to my earlier post: > > I had the battery in my 325is explode, subsequent > > information suggests the tube was blocked. No the breather tube allows venting of hydrogen gas produce within the battery, block tube = no venting & hydrogen gas buildup. When I attempted to start the car, KAWOMPH!, the entire top of the battery blow off and sprayed acid all around (thanks to a friend with lots of baking soda no serious damage). Steve 92 323is ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:40:56 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] thermostat housing while having some maintenance done on my E36 M3 at my local independant BMW service shop, they showed me some cool stuff (not high tech, but cool nonetheless) about some things that happen to E36 cars (including the M3s). they've posted some of their stuff on their new website which you can get to at: http://www.motorworkswest.com they're are not new to the business, but they've just got into selling stuff such as dinan (they're an authorized dealer) as well as a lot of other stuff. they advertise in the roundel and bimmer as well. fwiw. ben liaw ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:04:20 -0700 From: "Rob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <FS> 16" twin spoke wheels&tires FOR SALE: 4 - 16" facotry BMW twin spoke wheels with Dunlop SP2000 225/50/16 tires from 1997 328ic,will fit all E36 except M3. 3 wheels are 99% perfect and one has two small curb marks. Tires are between 40-50% tread remaining. Asking $700 obo thanks Rob [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:03:55 -0700 From: Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] active billboards Did you think cell phones were an insufficient driver distraction? While I'm very concerned about the privacy issues, I'm even more worried about the safety implications of the scenario he paints. http://www.compaq.com/rcfoc/20000124.html#_Toc472854366 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:12:47 -0500 From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <Tech> More Power in Cold Implies More Gas! More power does not mean better mileage. The engine produces more power because there is more mass of air per volume 'pulled' in and it can burn more fuel (assuming a constant A/F ratio) per volume of air pulled in. The volume that can be pulled in is limited by various factors - displacement, RPM, etc. It develops this power at the expense of fuel economy though. It is not like the fuel burns better in cold air! Neil Deshpande 1988 325 iS 1989 325 iC *** Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:05:04 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] 32 MPG in E36's - easy Engines produce more power in cold air but cold lubricants in the trans and diff increase drag. Also cold air has higher aero drag. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Warm weather gives you better mileage than cold weather. Your engine is > >very inefficient when running cold. In warm weather, it warms up faster, > >and this is also worth about 1.5 mpg, all else being equal > > Warm weather? Don't engines perform better sucking in cool air? > Even in cold weather my car only takes a couple miles to warm up. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:09:11 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] thermostat housing Ben Liaw writes: > http://www.motorworkswest.com This is interesting. They say: When the thermostat [OE Behr] fails, it generally breaks in the "open" position which can cause the following problems: - - Temperature never gets out of the "blue" zone of the temperature gauge. - - Fuel mixture too rich, poor gas mileage. - - Overheating For my own information, how can point 1 and 3 both be true? I would've though a failed thermostat in the open position would cause a car to run too cool [point 1], not hot [point 3]. - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:41:05 -0500 From: Jeff Schnellinger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] thermostat housing Situation 1 happens when the car is moving. ( had this happen to me ) Situation 2 happens when the car is stationary and doesn't benefit from the added cooling of the radiator while the car is in motion. Jeff Moe Drippins wrote: > > Ben Liaw writes: > > > http://www.motorworkswest.com > > This is interesting. They say: > > When the thermostat [OE Behr] fails, it generally breaks in the "open" > position which can cause the following problems: > > - Temperature never gets out of the "blue" zone of the temperature > gauge. > > - Fuel mixture too rich, poor gas mileage. > > - Overheating > > For my own information, how can point 1 and 3 both be true? I would've > though a failed thermostat in the open position would cause a car to > run too cool [point 1], not hot [point 3]. > > -- > Just Moe > '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:47:56 -0500 From: "McEntee, Marc" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] light test A friend of mine sent this to me: http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=102 they did a little test of those cool blue headlight bulbs. If you have any thoughts of buying these after reading this... Marc ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:50:18 -0500 From: "Geoff Marsh-GS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Need some help diagnosing idle problems I need some help diagnosing some cold idle problems I've been having on my 1990 325is (165k miles). The symptoms are: when cold, the engine idles very low (~400 rpm). When the car has just been started, it runs very rough, and if I release the accelerator pedal abruptly, the engine will hesitate briefly at ~750 rpm and then die. If I release the accelerator pedal slowly, however, it won't die, it'll just idle below 500 rpm. After running for about 30 seconds, the engine won't die even if I release the pedal abruptly. When warm, the engine sometimes idles high, sometimes low, and sometimes right at 750 rpm, but it never comes close to dying and runs smoothly. There's no sign of coolant in the exhaust or any coolant leaks (i.e. I don't think it's a head gasket problem). Here's what I've tried so far: 1) Replaced coolant temp sensor. I read infinite resistance when cold on both the old one and the new one, could the replacement be bad? 2) Adjusted throttle plate and throttle switch at the idle position. Doing this and #1 solved the problem for about a day, but it came back. 3) Checked for air leaks in the intake system. I couldn't find any. 4) Cleaned and checked resistance on the ICV (it checked out OK in the closed position). I also did the 'penny trick' (put a penny with a hole in it in the ICV intake). This fixed it for about a day but it came back; this also fixed a fluctuation in the idle speed when the car was cold. 5) Adjusted valves. 6) Checked AFM operation. It seems to be OK. 7) New battery (it needed it anyway). To make it more interesting, the car died on the way to work this morning (engine died and no electrical power). The OBC reset, so it was like I unhooked one of the battery terminals. This happened twice again this afternoon when I parked and turned the key to the off position and then tried to restart the car. I'm thinking this is a relay related problem, but could it also be related to my cold idle difficulties? My next step is to check fuel pressure/delivery rate and possibly to pull the injectors out to make sure they are working OK, but I wanted to get some input from the Digest to see if I was headed in the right direction. FWIW: I have a Jim C. chip in the car. Anyone have any ideas? Geoff ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:56:26 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] X-Brace Installation and Cosmoline Removal To all, I installed the X-brace this weekend (one of Stephen last internet orders as far as I can tell -- ordered on 1/5 prior to pulling the plug on 1/17). First off, thanks again to Ron Stygar. I had read Ron's install instructions which made installation a snap. During the install, I forgot what torque was necessary for the two types of bolts and no longer had the hard copy of Ron's write-up available (left it at home) while I was installing the brace at my sister's house (where my car is stored during our lovely NE Ohio winters). Even though I did not have the instructions, I was able to jump onto Ron's website via my sister's computer and get the information. I was glad to get the information when I needed it without running home, etc. Anyway, the only thing I have to add to the process was the removal of cosmoline (and all the other crap which can adhere to the bottom of a car). I used PPG DX 330 Wax and Grease Remover. This did the trick quite easily and is safe for painted surfaces. I had occasionally used to use it to remove really tough tar from my cars although clay has made this use obsolete for me. That is why I had some DX 330 handy. I found DX 330 is great for removing cosmoline although I am not sure if it would do anything for baked-on cosmoline. It can be purchased from any paint store, NAPA, etc. There is a similar product available from Ditzlers called Prep Solv I believe as well. In addition, PPG has another product called DX 440 which removes just about everything (wax, grease, tar, paint, etc.) right down to the sheet metal I believe. Not good for finished surfaces although I have never used DX 440. Best regards, Rich 95M3 Completed - X-brace, Sharked, JC Intake, Euro HFM, Red Line fluids throughout Waiting - UUC sway bars next, ETA - ~February - New MXX3s waiting for me to burn off the remainder of the rubber Pondering - Either UUC strut brace or Motorsport strut brace - Euro head lights - Clear front, side and rear lenses - Change in wheels? FYI - Although it took a while to receive the X-brace (and parts) from Stephen, he was very accommodating and kept me informed of the delay. Like rubbing salt in the wounds isn't it. We need another source like Stephen, particularly for novices like myself. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:37:52 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] active billboards Bob Sutterfield writes: > Did you think cell phones were an insufficient driver distraction? > While I'm very concerned about the privacy issues, I'm even more > worried about the safety implications of the scenario he paints. > > http://www.compaq.com/rcfoc/20000124.html#_Toc472854366 The "active billboard" type thing is alive now, in Atlanta. Turner, especially, has billboards up and down the main N/S thoroughfare through town with almost video quality color ads and spots. It's basically a huge grainy TV. I don't find it any more distracting than any OTHER billboard, but that's me. It's not to the point where it 'knows' who's driving by it and tailors the ads appropriately, but I don't think that it would really want to advertise something in a public area for ME. Something that would actually get my attention pried off the road would probably not fall under the FCC's view of "good taste". =) - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:58:06 -0800 From: John Edward Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Quaife Differential? > Anyone have any real-world experience with the Quaife diff? > Are there ANY downsides other than what Ron already mentioned? > Importantly, what is the effective rear-end gear ratio with a > Quaife diff in an E36 application (low to mid 3's would be > nice)?? Anyone want to get up a group purchase? > Thanks as always for the list wisdom. I have one in my Taurus SHO, and a Gold Trac (a different flavor of worm-gear torque-biasing diff) in my track Mustang. They're spectacularly smooth in action, the biggest disadvantage is that they generate a fair amount of heat in action. Continuous use in open-track events, particularly in the wet or behind very high-HP engines, may require some attention to diff cooling. Otherwise - I'm love to see one available for the E39 cars ('98 540i in our case) but I'm told that's 'real soon now'. John. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:59:40 -0800 From: John Edward Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: MT COTY > There is an article running around out there that is basically a reprint > of Peterson's "How to win the COTY" manual. It basically highlights the > advertising requirements..etc.. > > It really is fixed.. and that's also a shame. No, it's definitely NOT fixed, it's completely open to the highest bidder. John. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:00:04 -0600 (CST) From: Jefrem Iwaniw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] thermostat housing On Mon, 24 Jan 2000, Jeff Schnellinger wrote: > Situation 1 happens when the car is moving. ( had this happen to me ) > > Situation 2 happens when the car is stationary and doesn't benefit from > the added cooling of the radiator while the car is in motion. Huh? Moe's right -- when a thermostat is stuck "open" (i.e. allows coolant to flow through radiator all the time) a car will not overheat unless there are other issues with the cooling system. My guess of the statements in the website is that they are the result of poor editing (e.g. overheating is the result of a stuck-closed thermostat). > Moe Drippins wrote: > > For my own information, how can point 1 and 3 both be true? I would've > > though a failed thermostat in the open position would cause a car to > > run too cool [point 1], not hot [point 3]. - -jefrem ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:00:44 -0500 From: "VIncentMathew Malfa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] set bmwuucdigest digest set bmwuucdigest digest ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:18:52 -0500 From: "VIncentMathew Malfa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] thermostat housing E36 M3's have plastic thermostat housings? Hmmm, that seems to me like another case of BMW finding little cost-cuts during E36 production, since my 92 325is with the M50B25 engine had a metal thermostat housing (aluminum? I dunno). Hey Kirk, chalk up another reason to hang onto that 92 525i. The proof is in the details... - -Matt Malfa <<<they've posted some of their stuff on their new website which you can get to at: http://www.motorworkswest.com>>> ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #106 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
