[uucdigest]          Monday, January 24 2000          Volume 03 : Number 107



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Fuel Efficiency vs. Power Efficiency
       [uuc] Thermostat Housings
       [uuc] Busted Hirschman Antenna
       RE: [uuc] Making a newer BMW handle/feel like a 'classic' BMW
       [uuc] Obviously NOT a weekend mechanics car . . .
       [uuc] V1 rearview mirror install
       Re: [uuc] re: "M" Provenance
       [uuc] <FS> 94 325is
       [uuc] RE:  Adventures in Mexico
       Re: [uuc] thermostat housing
       [uuc] snow, abs, lsd, iX and tires
       [uuc] <E30> Stumbles.  Runs on 5-cylinders
       Re: [uuc] thermostat housing
       [uuc] <FS> '89 325iX - it's snowing, you need it.

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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:26:55 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Fuel Efficiency vs. Power Efficiency

Bill,

The motor is actually more power/volumetric efficient when the air charge is
cooler. The air charge is denser and the difference is temperature between the
inlet charge and exhaust is greater making more power possible. When the inlet
air is warmer, the air charge is less dense and less gas is needed to maintain
near stochiometric.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:53:26 -0500
From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Thermostat Housings

BMW did go to plastic thermostat housings on E36 and other models which
have had cracking problems.  Replacement plastic units with new o-rings run
around $32.00...you can the aftermarket aluminum ones for around $34.00.  SD
=========================================
Steve D'Gerolamo - The Ultimate Garage
201-262-0412 / [EMAIL PROTECTED] / http://www.ultimategarage.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:07:27 -0500
From: Chip Baines <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Busted Hirschman Antenna

Last year I replaced the power antenna in my '86 528e with one from
Hirschman, purchased from Bavarian AutoSport.  It's worked well for a
year, right up to the cold snap that we had here in the northeast last
week.  The outside temp was around 0 degrees F, and when the antenna
retracted one of the plastic gears inside snapped - lost a couple of
teeth.  My guess is that in the cold the plastic turned brittle and
couldn't take the stress when the antenna bottomed out.  So now the
motor just turns and turns without the mast going anywhere.  I took it
apart over the weekend and found the broken gear.

Anyone ever tried to repair one of these things?  Anyone have a
disemboweled antenna sitting around the'd like to sell for parts?  Other
suggestions for how to get this part?  I'd hate to have to buy a whole
new antenna just because of a couple of missing teeth on a gear.  TIA.

- -Chip Baines
BMW CCA
'86 528e
'97 328iC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:01:54 -0500
From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Making a newer BMW handle/feel like a 'classic' BMW

Jay is looking for retro..

>Here's a serious question: To what extent can a newer BMW (e.g. E36, E39,
>E46) be *modified* so that it regains more of the tossability/nimbleness,
>feedback, handling balance and greater fun-to-drive-at-the-limit factor of
>the older BMWs with the 'classic' feel (e.g. 2002, E30, E28)?  (For the
>sake of discussion, let's assume that the newer cars -- good as they are --
>are not as good as the older BMWs in these areas).  

Not a good assumption - have you driven an M-Coupe? More tossable
than any E30 or E28 I've ever driven, more nimble, better feedback,
better handling balance and DEFINATELY more fun-to-drive.

So - simple answer. Trade in the other new ones on an M-Coupe.

>Recent posts have indicated that as newer BMWs have gained refinement
>(probably a good thing overall), they have also felt more isolated and been
>tuned for 'dumbed down' handling, providing less tactile feedback through
>the steering and the seat, less aural feedback/music, a clear bias to
>understeer, etc.  

M-Coupe is exactly not what you describe above. I can usually tell
the brand of cigarette butt that I drive over with the coupe.. (slight
exageration - but not a lot). Has a wonder amount of feedback via the
taut suspension and very firm seats. Steering is think where you want
to go (and very quick) - and as far as a clear bias to understeer -
heck - I don't want that - I want the understeer/oversteer to be
driver controlable, ie - right foot. Which the coupe gives you
if you turn off the ASC..

Some questions snipped..

>Question 2:  Is there something *inherent* in the *design* of newer BMWs
>apart from lots more sound deadening material (e.g. numb steering racks,
>suspension configuration (multi-link vs. semi-trailing arm, etc.) that
>prevent them from being *modified* to be as entertaining to drive hard as
>the older models?  Will a newer BMW always be less entertaining and more
>refined?  

See above.

>Inquiring minds need to know so we can get more out of our cars ....  I
>hope that you people who have extensive experience with both older and
>newer BMWs, both stock and modified, can share your experience.  

Easy to do - you're just picking the wrong BMW for your wants.

>Please note that this is not meant to be a criticism of newer BMWs.  I
>personally have an E36 328i with a relatively mild suspension (M3 spec) and
>love the car tremendously.  I simply want to understand to what extent we
>bimmerphiles can take a newer BMW -- already a relatively sporty car -- and
>sharpen its edge without losing too much refinement.  Maybe there is no
>free lunch, but there are better compromises that we can strike.  

>I'll follow the discussion thread and summarize later on.  
>
>Jay Sala

Again - I'd suggest a few hours with an M-Coupe (or M-roadster, which
is just a tad softer and not quite as stiff) to see that BMW is still
producing a balls-to-the-walls fun to drive car. It's hard to drive one
without getting a very big goofy grin on your face..

If you start wanting to carry 4 people or Aunt Mildred.. well, then
you're getting into compromise area.. but the E36/M3 wasn't a bad
compromise..


........................................
Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1
     [EMAIL PROTECTED]
    NJ Shore BMW Riders web page:
 http://www.monmouth.com/~deilenberger
You're absolutely right, and I apologize
                --Darryl Richman
........................................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:19:31 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Obviously NOT a weekend mechanics car . . .

Is it entirely possible I need TWO special tools to replace the belts on my
e36 325? After 100k, I thought it was probably a good idea to replace the
belts.
Being only moderately technically inclined, I figured I could do it with
your typical assortment of 'weekend mechanic' tools. Nope.  In the first 5
steps of the Haynes manual (I know, you guys are probably in tears thinking
some necktie head actually needs a Haynes manual to replace the
fan/alternator belts). I can take it. :)
Anyway, as I was saying, in the first 5 steps, the manual calls for TWO
special tools. A 'special open end wrench' and a 'hexagon bit'. Now, I have
a good variety of open end wrench's' and a couple of hex bits obtained for
the brakes on my e30 M3, but nothing this size.
Arguably the brakes on an M could justify a special tool or socket, but not
belts on a 325!

Well, the car is off the jacks now until I locate (aka: buy) the special
tools and find some more free time. Arghhh.

Could someone provide the size of the hex and open end I need?

Thanks for letting me vent.    hmmmm, maybe I'll just drop it off at
Foreign Motors West.  :)


Owen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:25:35 -0800
From: "Rob Hatrak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] V1 rearview mirror install

Would someone please drop me an email with the web site address that showed
the Valentine One's display mounted inside the mirror?  I have misplaced the
link, and need it for a friend.

Thanks in advance,

Rob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:35:04 -0500
From: Phil Marx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] re: "M" Provenance

Ray Kang wrote:
>Based on what I can glean from BMW M Series Performance Portfolio from
>Brooklands Road Test Books, the M635CSi was introduced in early 1984 to the
>German market with the press being allowed to drive pre-production cars in
>January of 1984 (MotorSport March 1984). The M5 was officially introduced to
>the German market in February of 1985, with 25 cars being delivered to
>customers prior to the official introduction, as BMW Motorsport custom
>orders (M Twice June 1985).

BMW lists the start of production for the M635Csi as 4/84 and the M5 as 10/84.

- -Phil Marx

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:34:08 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] <FS> 94 325is

Well, I guess the subject line says it all. Those of you who know me are 
aware that I looked long and hard before deciding on this particular E36:

94 325is - 03/94 prod.
M50TU/B25 VaNoS
5 speed manual
Schwarz III Black/Black leather interior
Under 82k miles
$19,000

All the usual refinements, incl:
Power Seats
Seat heaters
Cold A/C
Sunroof
Cruise Control
ASC - Traction Control

Also:
Rear Mudflaps
Chrome Exhaust tips
Eclipse cassette head unit with 6 disc trunk mounted CD changer
TMS Chip
AC Schnitzer Rear Spoiler w/LED brake light
Kamei headlight eyebrows
Clear front signals
Tinted rear and quarter windows

Just replaced water pump and thermostat, oil change, new fuel filter, redline 
in tranny
Books and flashlight in the glovebox, toolkit is fully intact
recently replaced cracked foglight

I have not owned this car for very long (~6 months), and there are very few 
things in this world which could persuade me to part with it, but the 
opportunity to purchase a 95 M3 has come up... Car does not have full OBC, 
only temp sensor/check control. Like all 94 E36's this one has dual airbags 
and ABS, in addition to ASC. Oil changed every 3.5k since I've had it, washed 
and waxed regularly. Very nice exterior, nothing shines quite like a 
well-waxed black car. There are no obvious marks or scratches in the paint, 
although I cannot say the PO was a Q-tipper. Interior is even cleaner, nearly 
a 10/10, no stains, original BMW mats, what else can I say? This is a very 
nice car!! Between the legal tints and the spoiler, it has been regarded as 
fairly sinister looking, not your granny's E36. Friends initially attempted 
to call it Hotblack Desiato (Douglas Adams fans know what I mean) but being 
that at least one other BMW that I'm aware of (RIP) was already christened 
with that name (Hi Ken!) it instead became known as "The Light Vortex." It 
has that quality of being so dark it sucks in all the ambient light...

Vehicle is located in Mahopac, NY (not far from White Plains), although I am 
a part-time resident of Worcester, MA.
(508) 831-6297

- -Matt Malfa

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:36:12 -0500
From: Mark McHarry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE:  Adventures in Mexico

Sky Atchison writes,

>> I hadn't seen a single BMW on my trip
through Mexico.

The Euro models, including the bikes, are sold in
maybe 6 cities at prices far beyond the U.S.
Odds are you won't see many outside of Mexico City
or Monterrey.  I've seen the 3 Series and coupe in
Oaxaca, where I live part-time, but with Mexico 
City plates

>> Two days before leaving Mexico, I mistakenly
thought I was on a freeway but wasn't. I flew
over a brutal railroad crossing 

The Mexican superhighways are good - better than the
California freeways because they're less trafficked
- -- but are toll roads, and expensive.  If you're
not paying a toll you're not on a superhighway
and railroad crossings will be only one of many
things to watch out for.

- -- Mark

Mark McHarry
95 M3 ITZTLI
Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:22:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] thermostat housing

Jeff Schnellinger writes:


> > - Overheating

> Situation 2 happens when the car is stationary and doesn't benefit
> from the added cooling of the radiator while the car is in motion.

How would the thermo stuck OPEN affect this though?


- -- 
Just Moe
'95 540 6 speed, BL/SS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:40:46 -0600
From: David Manderscheid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] snow, abs, lsd, iX and tires

Just got back from a week in DC and am now catching up
on email and this thread. Before getting to my contribution
I have to say I was quite amused to see how people in DC
deal with snow. Got in Tuesday night and not a cab to
found at National. Apparently a bit of snow and everything
iced over - gridlock. Wednesday night 3.5 inches in the
district and everything closes. Now I can understand
this somewhat since they are not used to dealing with
snow but what drove me a bit nuts was watching the
local news. There was no discussion of proper driving
techniques in snow/ice just criticism of  Public Works
for not salting the hell out of every street.

Now to my experience. I have owned a 91 318iS
and  currently own a 91 325iX. The iS was  a dog
in snow unless it had snow tires in which case it
was better than any FWD car I've ever had. The LSD
helped but I would have loved to have been able to
turn off the ABS. Now the iX is a different animal.
The ABS on the iX actually helps in snow - different
programming. Finally the iX with new and or slightly
used all seasons (Dunlop 4000) was better than the
iS with snows but get some wear on those tires and
the tables turn. Now the iX with snows .... no
comparison.

Dave Manderscheid
91 325iX 61K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:52:04 -0500
From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Stumbles.  Runs on 5-cylinders

My girlfriend, who is driving the 1989 325 iC (180k miles), reported engine trouble 
last week and I got to check it out over the weekend.  Here is what I found:

1. The problem occurs about 50% of the time.  I'd like to say when it is colder (it is 
always cold in Columbus, OH at this time of the year), but I simply did not observe it 
for that long.

2. When the problem occurs, the car runs very roughly, as if one cylinder was not 
firing and the engine was out of balance, the engine tries to die but can run on it 
own as long as no power is demanded of it.  When driving it is OK at 1000+ RPM, but 
may die as you brake without pusing the clutch in.  The exhaust is brown (not blue or 
white) and can be seen to be brown clearly as there is snow on the ground and smells 
smoky.

3. There is no clanging or other metallic sound as I think a 'dropped' ring might 
result in.

4. The dipstick is not pushed out and neither is the oil frothy with coolant.

5. The car can ALWAYS be restarted and got going in a stumbling manner.

I suspect:

1. Clogged injector or engine computer malfunction specific to one cylinder.  I'm not 
saying plug since it does run OK half the time and there is no way for a plug to clean 
itself I imagine.

My girlfriend is not going to need the car for about 6 weeks (surgery on the foot) so 
there is some time for me to gather responses before I need to act.  Eventually, I 
would bring the car up to Detroit Metro Area, MI (where I live) and sort it out.

Any and all help, both diagnostic and prognostic, would be appreciated.  Thanks in 
advance.

Neil Deshpande
1988 325 iS LSD and ABS
1989 325 iC No LSD and No ABS when purchased.  ABS repaired.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 16:00:55 -0500
From: Jeff Schnellinger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] thermostat housing

Jefrem Iwaniw wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 24 Jan 2000, Jeff Schnellinger wrote:
> > Situation 1 happens when the car is moving.  ( had this happen to me )
> >
> > Situation 2 happens when the car is stationary and doesn't benefit from
> > the added cooling of the radiator while the car is in motion.
> 
> Huh?  Moe's right -- when a thermostat is stuck "open" (i.e. allows
> coolant to flow through radiator all the time) a car will not overheat
> unless there are other issues with the cooling system.  My guess of
> the statements in the website is that they are the result of poor
> editing (e.g. overheating is the result of a stuck-closed thermostat).

This is correct.  However, if the cooling system cannot release the heat
generated fast enough, it will overheat.  The system should reach an
equilibrium that is below the overheating threshold, but may not be able
to depending on the condition of the system.

In a normal system, the coolant only flows when the thermostat opens. 
In the time it is closed, the coolant in the rest of the system cools
down some.  Then when the thermostat opens, the cooler liquid circulates
and cools the engine.  However, if the coolant flows constantly, and the
cooling of the liquid can not keep up, the system temperature will
increase.  Imagine siting in traffic, with no breeze or air flow through
the radiator.  


Jeff


> 
> > Moe Drippins wrote:
> > > For my own information, how can point 1 and 3 both be true? I would've
> > > though a failed thermostat in the open position would cause a car to
> > > run too cool [point 1], not hot [point 3].
> 
> -jefrem

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 16:03:50 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <FS> '89 325iX - it's snowing, you need it.

(not sure if this went through, didn't see it the first time)

This car is located at a dealer in Edison, NJ - Advantage Motors,
732-985-7774.  Ask for Jon, tell him Rob sent ya.

Why would I post an ad from a dealer?  The lot owner been a friend of mine for
about 13 years and I can vouch for the quality of the car and the EXCELLENT
treatment you'll receive.

Details:

'89 325iX
* automatic
* 4-door
* black exterior/interior
* comfort seats, not sport
* no accident damage or rust
* excellent condition
* 110K miles
* CD player

$7895 FIRM

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #107
**************************

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