[uucdigest] Monday, January 24 2000 Volume 03 : Number 109 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Bimmer Magazine contact phone number Re: [uuc] thermostat housing Re: [uuc] Busted Hirschman Antenna Re: [uuc] thermostat housing [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] yokomommas V. Kumho [uuc] Those Wacky Germans-Another tale. [uuc] ACTIVE BILLBOARDS-not bmw related Re: [uuc] thermostat housing [uuc] Re: ABS Re: [uuc] Bimmer Magazine contact phone number [uuc] Re: Making a newer BMW handle/feel like a 'classic' BMW [uuc] Re: Obviously NOT a weekend mechanics car . . . [uuc] stuck thermostats ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:15:06 -0800 From: Ren Finley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Bimmer Magazine contact phone number Does anyone have a contact phone number for Bimmer magazine? My car was featured in a recent issue and I want to get additional copies... Ren Finley 00 328ci 95 540i Sport (Dinan S/C) 89 M3 (J Stock Club Racer) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:20:00 -0800 From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] thermostat housing Jeff commented: > Huh? Moe's right -- when a thermostat is stuck "open" (i.e. allows > coolant to flow through radiator all the time) a car will not overheat > unless there are other issues with the cooling system. My guess of the > statements in the website is that they are the result of poor editing > (e.g. overheating is the result of a stuck-closed thermostat). The site also says: We offer an alternative to the Behr part, which we've seen fail. Our thermostat, made by Whaler, another OE manufacturer to BMW, has stronger tabs preventing premature failure. At only slightly more than the stock thermostat, it will last a lot longer. MMW Upgraded Thermostat: $30 Perhaps it's a little more than poor editing? The current thermostat in my car is a Wahler (not Whaler) from a BMW dealer. And it was less than $30. The prior thermostat (also a Wahler), put in by the dealer when they did the profile gasket, was defective when new -- it stuck open and wouldn't let the car warm up. Unless they're using a part for a different application, I don't see how 'upgraded' it can be or what makes it any different from the 'stock' part. Also note that at some point, BMW bumped the rating up to 92 deg (or so, I don't remember the exact figure). The earlier ones had lower ratings. Herman ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:38:03 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Busted Hirschman Antenna That's just the mast and cord. Chip's problem is inside the box, one of the actual gears driven off the motor. - - Rob - ----- Original Message ----- From: Dog-n-Hog <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Busted Hirschman Antenna > Replacement masts (with attached gear cords) are available from > BMPDesign or Crutchfield for ~$10-$20, in chrome or black. > > Norm > > Chip Baines wrote: > > > > week. The outside temp was around 0 degrees F, and when the antenna > > retracted one of the plastic gears inside snapped - lost a couple of > > teeth. My guess is that in the cold the plastic turned brittle and > > couldn't take the stress when the antenna bottomed out. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:26:17 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] thermostat housing Chester Wong writes: > I think we don't need to discuss this anymore. The weird thing is > that these people are selling the housing for $70 and Steve D sells > an aftermarket one for $2 more than the stock plastic part. Guess > which one I'd buy? Is Steve's alumin[i]um? - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:43:39 -0500 From: robert l kollar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] yokomommas V. Kumho Carter, Few things and then some real advice. First off the Yok will last the longest, be best in the rain, and if you can handle the noise (sorta like a monster truck going down the street) treat you well as a daily tire. However--- It won't stick near as well as the Kumho. That's all ya need to know. Now the REAL advice part: There are many reasons people come Club Racing. One of which is a chance to be in a glorified driver school where you can pass wherever you want. If that's the plan than that's cool too, enjoy the Yoks and watch your mirrors. However, it is called Club "RACING" so things like maximum adhesion and grip mean a lot. At first you may be fine with the Yoks, but in time lap times become a very real concern and one of the easiest places to trim the fat is in tires. More advice: driving home from driver schools should be a no brainer. Personally I drive the race car to driver schools all the time. That is because it's just that- a driver school. Things may get a little fast in the instructor group sometimes, but no 10/10ths business. That's for the races. You should never really fear how to get home because you can control most of the variables. Races are another world. YOU NEVER KNOW what can happen to you in a race. It's racin'-shit happens. You'd be really better off getting your hands on a truck and trailer for going to races. There's SO many variables you can't control so it's good to have a back up just in case. Think of it this way. You are required to have a suit, gloves shoes, helmet fire bottle, seat back brace, cage etc. etc. etc. All because SOMETIMES bad stuff happens. A trailer to get home is just one last bit of security. Final recommendation: Buy a set of Yoks for all of your schools and commuting. Buy a set of Kumhos just for use at the races. Good luck- Robbie Kollar # 22 I-Stock 95 M3 >Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:43:25 EST >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] A032's and Khumos > >Donna: > >Thanks for the post. I am getting ready to buy a set of R's and haven't yet >decided which way to go, Khumo or Yoko A032. These will only be used on the >weekends for around town fun runs, for instructing at a school or two, and >during two BMW CCA Club Races. The track, Virginia International Raceway, is >about 90 minutes away. I just want to be able to get back home if it's >raining. > >Looking at Khumo 205/55/14 and Yoko 195/60/14 (they don't make a 205 Yoko) > >What are your thoughts? > >Carter Hunt >84 325E L-Stock (and weekend street use, 3k miles per year) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:42:55 -0800 From: "Halton, Robert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Those Wacky Germans-Another tale. > the BMW rep told him to put the phone down while they ran some remote > diagnostics on the car (via satellite). Within a minute, the > BMW service > rep told him that the fuel pump relay was bad and to jump two > contacts and > to put on the headlight switch. Apparently this bypassed the > relay and the > motorist was able to get the car home and into the > dealership. I had no > idea that this level of sophistication existed with todays BMW's. I'm > impressed! SD So my favourite story, was of a German Banker who lived in I think Bonn, and commuted to some other city 3 or 4 times a week Stuttgart maybe, and the drive was something like 300 miles. So his chosen mode of transport was a McLaren F1, so there is BMW content in this. So the car breaks down, and like the previous message, you dial up to woking via satellite. So the technicians are examining the car remotely, and tell the customer that something is awry with the engine management, as it is displaying the Average speed of the car was in the region of 150-160 miles per hour. But he explained that he was a weekend privateer in some touring car type races, and liked to drive the car as fast as it would go, he would complete his commute in a little over 1hour 40 minutes.. Made me chuckle. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 16:52:45 -0600 From: Morrie Bowie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] ACTIVE BILLBOARDS-not bmw related With regard to the instant buying aspect of active billboards, I believe this is already in place in New Zealand where you can enter a product code, and a PIN # from your cell phone to order whatever. They also have vending machines that you can pay for with your cell phone. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:02:07 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] thermostat housing > > I think we don't need to discuss this anymore. The weird thing is > > that these people are selling the housing for $70 and Steve D sells > > an aftermarket one for $2 more than the stock plastic part. Guess > > which one I'd buy? > > Is Steve's alumin[i]um? In his private response to me, he said aluminum. But I'll let him answer that. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 23:09:47 +0000 (GMT) From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Richard?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: ABS ABS!!! as in Anti Braking System does not reduce stopping distances if anything they increase slightly A car fitted with ABS under full braking will still be steerable a car without will lock the front wheels and no matter what way you turn the steering wheel you will have no control. ABS in snow or ice is very weird even at a slow speed, say 5mph the ABS will come on if you brake hard enough feels very strange. Richard M '89 535i Sport > Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:09:17 -0500 > From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [uuc] LSD and ABS in the snow > > ABS reduces stopping > distance and maintains control (on most surfaces) ____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:12:28 -0800 From: Eric Fournier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Bimmer Magazine contact phone number Hey Ren, I rode in it last week. Must of been the last time before you bought it. Holy SH*T! I was getting ill from the acceleration! It's intoxicating having over 400 Hp on tap. BTW, any Barnes & Noble or Borders, etc... will have "Bimmer". Eric GGC 87 E30 M3 Ren Finley wrote: > > Does anyone have a contact phone number for Bimmer magazine? My car was > featured in a recent issue and I want to get additional copies... > > Ren Finley > 00 328ci > 95 540i Sport (Dinan S/C) > 89 M3 (J Stock Club Racer) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 18:22:20 -0500 From: "Christopher Graff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Making a newer BMW handle/feel like a 'classic' BMW Au contraire. Having driven an E28, an E30, and an E36 back-to-back-to-back at one time, I can tell you that the newer BMW's have a much different feeling. >Not a good assumption - have you driven an M-Coupe? More tossable >than any E30 or E28 I've ever driven, more nimble, better feedback, >better handling balance and DEFINATELY more fun-to-drive. Alright, you're comparing apples to oranges. No harm done, and yes you're right to an extent about the M-coupe, but let's compare stock cars, not M-modified cars. First, the older cars don't have the sound deadening, or cushioning newer cars have. Not to mention the noise and vibration isolation built into the body. This refinement is good. Newer chassis are MUCH, MUCH stiffer and do not flex to the extent the older ones do. BUT, the isolation built into the newer cars take away from the "directness" or feeling of the older cars. I mean you don't hear road noise, wind roar, and engine noise in new cars, but you do in older ones. To some, this is a better driving "experience." Now, the new cars can be much better to *drive* (i.e. M-coupe) because of the stiffer structure. Suspension components can be changed to be more responsive, stiffer, and more fun to drive without encountering problems. Whereas the older cars need strut braces, etc., to stiffen the structure to be able take the stiffer suspension (just ask Ed Walters). >>Question 2: Is there something *inherent* in the *design* of newer BMWs >>apart from lots more sound deadening material (e.g. numb steering racks, >>suspension configuration (multi-link vs. semi-trailing arm, etc.) that >>prevent them from being *modified* to be as entertaining to drive hard as >>the older models? Will a newer BMW always be less entertaining and more >>refined? Well, no. The suspension geometries are much better on new cars than older ones. I mean come on, semi-trailing rear arms vs. multi-link suspension? Who's gunna win? The components that can always be changed are shocks, springs, and bushings, on ANY car. Some people consider the semi-trailing rear suspension "more fun" - yeah, ask me that last Friday after I was driving my E28 in the snow! Oh, no! Oversteer galore at every corner unless I was going really slow. True, I do have pretty wide all-season rubber on there, so that didn't really help. But my other E36 325i just sticks, no matter what I try to do to the rear! And the tires aren't that much different. It's unreal. Newer suspensions feel more refined because they are, and that's not a bad thing! It does wonders for handling. But the old ones have a much more knife-edge feeling in comparison in which you need more skill to overcome, and hence, some consider a much more gratifying driving experience. At least I think so. >>Inquiring minds need to know so we can get more out of our cars .... I >>hope that you people who have extensive experience with both older and >>newer BMWs, both stock and modified, can share your experience. Learn to drive. No seriously, a well driven E28 can beat a poorly driven E36 on the track any day. But if you just take the cars alone, the new ones run circles around the older ones unless you do some really drastic modifications on the older one. But then, there's cost. New E46 328i + some suspension mods: $40k+ Used E36 325i + suspension mods: $18-28k. Old E28 535i + full suspension kit: $5k-$10k. Hey, I can have 5 E28's for the price of ONE new E46! :)Regards - -Chris Graff 615 Oak Hill Rd. Middletown, New Jersey 07748 M535i Registry (E12/E28 M535i & US 535iS) - - M535i Special Interest Group, Head Coordinator - - http://M535i.web.com BMW CCA 159803 - NJ Chapter, Senior Six Registry #184 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 15:30:06 -0800 From: Roger Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Obviously NOT a weekend mechanics car . . . That's funny, I managed to change the belts in just a few minutes on mine. Didn't need any "special" tools at all. Just a set of hex bit sockets. Buy a SET of hex bit sockets. You never just buy one, or as soon as you do you'll need another that came in the set. It's really a simple job, no kidding. The serpentine style belts with self tensioners really make it easy. I changed my thermostat & water pump the same time. Since I was in there, the belts were about an extra minute to change. Roger "[uucdigest]" wrote: > Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:19:31 -0500 > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] Obviously NOT a weekend mechanics car . . . > > Is it entirely possible I need TWO special tools to replace the belts on my > e36 325? After 100k, I thought it was probably a good idea to replace the > belts. > Being only moderately technically inclined, I figured I could do it with > your typical assortment of 'weekend mechanic' tools. Nope. In the first 5 > steps of the Haynes manual (I know, you guys are probably in tears thinking > some necktie head actually needs a Haynes manual to replace the > fan/alternator belts). I can take it. :) > Anyway, as I was saying, in the first 5 steps, the manual calls for TWO > special tools. A 'special open end wrench' and a 'hexagon bit'. Now, I have > a good variety of open end wrench's' and a couple of hex bits obtained for > the brakes on my e30 M3, but nothing this size. > Arguably the brakes on an M could justify a special tool or socket, but not > belts on a 325! > > Well, the car is off the jacks now until I locate (aka: buy) the special > tools and find some more free time. Arghhh. > > Could someone provide the size of the hex and open end I need? > > Thanks for letting me vent. hmmmm, maybe I'll just drop it off at > Foreign Motors West. :) > > Owen ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 15:32:41 -0800 (PST) From: John Pease <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] stuck thermostats A thermostat that is stuck open could cause overheating if it was stuck partially open. I think that is what the motorsport people were implying. John Pease __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #109 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
