[uucdigest] Thursday, January 27 2000 Volume 03 : Number 131 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] BMW Motorsport Calender [uuc] Bad accident, any help would be really appreciated [uuc] <all> 100K mark [uuc] ABS stopping distances [uuc] <Tech> Air Bag Trigger Sensor Re: [uuc] Roll Cage for E36 coupe [uuc] E30 pinging RE: [uuc] Bad accident, any help would be really appreciated [uuc] 100k Mark Re: [uuc] BMW Motorsport Calender [uuc] Re: high temp paint RE: [uuc] E30 pinging [uuc] retraction [uuc] <E30> Control Arms: The Big Question [uuc] RE: 528E Shoud I? [uuc] Re: E30 m3's ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:05:16 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] BMW Motorsport Calender I think my school has this calander hanging on the wall. I'll take a look at it tomorrow and post up the P/N. Jon Caldito BMW STEP ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 11:45:54 -0800 (PST) From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Bad accident, any help would be really appreciated For any liability for faulty airbags you have to establish the failure caused your injury. From what you described, if the only injury was to your pelvis it doesn't appear airbag deployment would have made a difference. Also, lawsuits are long and arduous. Think it through before you take that step. As for the ticket, I would fight it. Many people lose control when driving carefully on icy roads. The cops shouldn't have cited you. The only consideration might be if driving school is offered--might not be for reckless driving. If it is, it hurts on principle but you avoid the risk of points on your record. Kevin Kelly Golden Gate Chapter 91 M5 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 13:11:04 -0800 (PST) From: Jay Guillermo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <all> 100K mark Hi all, Just passed the 100K mark on my '93 325i and just did an oil change (the service indicator says 'oil service'). For the 100K mark, what are the critical areas I should look up? I've read that O2 sensor should be replaced every 50K, so I think i'm gonna do that one. I hope somebody from this digest can give me some pointers on what to check/replace for 100K maintenance. TIA, ===== Jay '93 325i BMW CCA NJ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 11:20:32 -0800 (PST) From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] ABS stopping distances Michiel writes: > Ok, static friction > dynamic friction. > > But this still doesn't explain why rolling tires > stop better. I think you need to add that the > dynamic friction of brakes is bigger then the > dynamic friction of the tires. Slipping brakes > are able to have more friction then skidding tires. > > Otherwise, I thought that threshold braking stops > faster then ABS braking? Good points, both. The reason it's better to have dynamic friction between brake pads and rotors than tires and road is, I'm assuming, as you state, that dynamic friction in the braking system is potentially higher than dynamic friciton at the road/tire interface. I see some added bonuses to keeping the brakes dynamic and the tires static here, too. First, brakes are meant to turn motion into heat. Tires aren't. As others have said, a sliding tire melts and flat-spots. Bad news. Second, you can regulate the amount of friction the brakes are producing (and, thus, you deceleration) a whole lot easier than you can regulate the amount of friction produced by a sliding tire on the road. I'd be interested in seeing typical Mu values for braking systems (ugh, this could start a discussion, couldn't it?) and road/tire interface. It's apparent that the brakes can generate enough friction to overcome the tires' rolling friction on most cars (i.e., you can lock your brakes). So, I guess it all comes back to tires -- you can only get as much deceleration as your tires give you. Theoretically, threshold braking stops better than ABS. However, for 99.9% of the driving populace, ABS is easier in a panic situation than threshold braking. ABS mimicks threshold breaking (but in a digital sense -- with ABS, the brakes are either on or off), but allows you to maintain steering. If you're threshold braking in a straight line, and suddenly want to turn, you have to let up on the brakes a bit so that the combined force vectors don't cause the tire to begin sliding. That's something that's not terribly intuitive for most people in a panic situation! KC Boyce '85 325e E30 Eta Page: http://rikki.coloradocollege.edu/~k_boyce/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:14:52 -0500 From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <Tech> Air Bag Trigger Sensor My Control Systems professor, Professor E.O. Doebelin (I'm sure a lot of you will have used his book on measurement systems), once told us that the air bag was triggered by a ball in a tube mechanism. Basically, when accelerated by a certain amount the ball, by virtue of its mass, travelled down the tube against a spring and actuated the air bag. Not quite an accelerometer, which is usually a piezo device, but the same principle. No deformation required. He also mentioned that whoever invented the sensor made a load of money so obviously the sensor, simple though it is, has some inherent advantages that cause its application to be fairly widespread. Neil Deshpande 1988 325 iS - no air bag 1989 325 iC - no air bag ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 15:22:27 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Roll Cage for E36 coupe You have to pad the cage regardless so your helmet doesn't break on it. Use the cage and pad it. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Hello all, > > We'll it's freekin' cold in Chicago so there's nothing better to do than to > gear-up for another season of driving schools. After Grattan last year, I'm > determined to put in harnesses. The problem is deciding between a 1/2 cage > or a harness bar. > > My car (M3) is my daily driver, so I like the flexibility of having a > harness bar that can be taken out. Harnesses are cool - but do I want them > all year round? The flip side is that the cage is much safer in the case of > a roll-over. My concern with a 1/2 cage is street safety. If you got into an > accident without a helmet on - could you hit your head on the cage? > > Any musing, or advice? Thanks in advance. > > David Foos > '95 ///M3 > BMW CCA # 172816 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:28:11 -0500 From: "Crawford, Scott (Cahners)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 pinging Hi all, My '89 325is pings very briefly, under heavy load only. By brief, I mean right at 3750 rpm in 5th, 4500 in 4th, only for a moment as the engine speed passes through. As the rpm's go even slightly higher or lower, it stops. What I've tried so far: It was suggested to me that carbon build up can cause this so I tried... Techron, lots. 2 bottles per tank for 2 tanks BG44K. 1 can in 1 tank. It has improved a little. Yes, it's 93 octane. I received a suggestion earlier to try 87. It was worse, as I expected. Some research I've done suggests a few things may be amiss. I'd like to see what you guys think. One option is vacuum leaks. What's the sure fire way to track one of these down? Faulty plug wires and/or distributor cap/rotor. Does any of this make sense? Thanks for any input. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 13:29:31 -0800 From: "Chen, Philip" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Bad accident, any help would be really appreciated Somehow this scenario: Getting cited after wrecking one's car, brings to mind of how Eddie Murphy getting charged with "disturbing peace" after getting thrown out of a window by Victor's goons. (Beverly Hill's Cop, the first one). Phil ---------- From: kjk [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 11:46 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Bad accident, any help would be really appreciated For any liability for faulty airbags you have to establish the failure caused your injury. From what you described, if the only injury was to your pelvis it doesn't appear airbag deployment would have made a difference. Also, lawsuits are long and arduous. Think it through before you take that step. As for the ticket, I would fight it. Many people lose control when driving carefully on icy roads. The cops shouldn't have cited you. The only consideration might be if driving school is offered--might not be for reckless driving. If it is, it hurts on principle but you avoid the risk of points on your record. Kevin Kelly Golden Gate Chapter 91 M5 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:40:35 -0500 From: "Henry Caldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 100k Mark Jay writes: <<Just passed the 100K mark on my '93 325i and just did an oil change (the service indicator says 'oil service'). For the 100K mark, what are the critical areas I should look up? I've read that O2 sensor should be replaced every 50K, so I think I'm gonna do that one>> Be sure you check the ignition coils. If any are the " Zundspule" brand, there is a good chance they will crack. If and when they do crack, they can take out your ECU!!! You want the Bemis or better yet Bosch ignition coils. Ask me how I know. A used ECU ain't cheap if you are lucky to find one. New cost is about 1000.00 Yes, that's a 1 and 3 zeros. I'm not sure when BMW stop using the Zundspule coils, but they are bad news. More on my experience later. Henry '92 325i with 6 new Bosch coils and a used replacement ECU ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:49:55 -0500 From: "Peter Sterne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] BMW Motorsport Calender Don't worry about the p/n, just take it down and send it to me 8^). Regards, Peter Sterne '93 325is '91 Miata SE [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I think my school has this calander hanging on the wall. I'll take a look at > it tomorrow and post up the P/N. > > Jon Caldito > BMW STEP ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:50:45 -0500 From: Mark Borchik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: high temp paint Curt, Negative... Unless you have some hi-tech aluminum finned calipers! I respray mine at every pad change, as the paint tends to get sandblasted off from road grit... But I only apply a light, single coat each time I do it. Mark B. Curt Kiser wrote: > Right on Mark. I've been using grille paint for years for exhaust systems and > such. Haven't tried it on the calipers for fear of raising the temps on it > (cooling goof). Does it have any negative effect on the brakes? TIA > > Curt Kiser ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:55:15 -0500 From: "Cagann, Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E30 pinging > One option is vacuum leaks. What's the sure fire way to > track one of these > down? You can spray carb cleaner (mist it) in the suspect areas. If the engine RPM's change, there is a vacuum leak. At least, I think this is how you do it. Please correct me if I am wrong. Alex Cagann 88///M5 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 15:53:40 -0600 From: "Mendez, Andrew D." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] retraction Hmm, I read this and I was guility of being too harsh myself. Sorry about the jackass comment. Also, I think the old M5s are actually beautiful in their own way, somewhat ungainly yet purposeful, like the Warthog attack jet. I also certainly don't think M cars are the best for any road conditions; I almost wrecked mine when I drove it home from the dealer because there was 1 micron of snow on the ground. Hmm, maybe I can sue Michelin for selling non-M&S tires. If I hadn't moved south I certainly would have got snow tires. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ------------- I wrote: Whoever said M5 owner wasn't worthy because he drove it in slush rather than garaging it for winter, you have lost your grasp on reality. Maybe the guy couldn't afford two cars, jackass. Maybe he didn't have a garage. Maybe he prefers to drive his car rather buffing it (huh, huh huh) in the garage. M cars (even the venerable 1988 M5, which to the untrained eye is actually ugly and relatively slow by modern standards, factors more than made up for by the fact that a few parts of it were "hand built" for the sole reason that that was more cost effective than mass producing them on an assembly line, but I digress), while nice, are not Bugattis or 60s Ferraris. They should be driven (in all conditions). ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:50:20 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Bob Fluharty) Subject: [uuc] <E30> Control Arms: The Big Question Redid my front struts and control arm bushings last weekend. I did the easy part (removal and reinstallation) and had a shop do the srut cartridge inserts and press the CA bushings into the brackets. But part of the easy part turned out to be hard. My intent was to remove the control arms from the car, but I coudn't figure out how to release the inside control arm ball joint. The nut's on the top side of the subframe. You can reach it from under the car with a wrench, but you have no room to move the wrench. You can see it from above (engine compartment) but you can't get a socket on it. I finally decided to replace the bushings with the control arms on the car. Removal wasn't hard (with a puller) although it sure helps if you clean the dirt off the stub of the shaft the bushing has to slide off, and even polish it a little with sandpaper. The second side went much faster than the first because I figured this out. Installing the new bushings was much rougher than anticipated. I thought I could just lube it up and push it on. Hardly - that sucker's tight. I thought at worst I'd have to drive it on with a hammer. That doesn't work either; with impact, the rubber just distorts and springs back. It responds much better to slow steady pressure. I finally concocted a Rube Goldberg arrangement involving a ratcheting bar clamp, a couple of peices of scrap steel, voodoo, and a great deal of profanity. All this on my back under the car on the coldest day of the year. If I ever do this again, I'll first develop a press which hooks in the holes in the arm itself. And I'll do it in July. But I'd still rather be at a work bench than under the car. Eventually I fretted everything into place, so my story has a happy ending. But I'm left with the question for those of you who've been there: How the hell'd you get that nut off? Bob Fluharty '87 325is Cincinnati ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 14:03:09 -0800 From: "Davis, James L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: 528E Shoud I? Chris, I went through the evaluation you're going through a while back. I also considered the 528e and came close to getting one, but what I finally decided on was an e12 even though they're older. I bought a 1980 528i with automatic tranny (bummer, but the rest of the car was worth it). I think the 528e is a fine car, but if you want a cheap, super reliable, simple Bimmer, consider getting a 79-81 528i. Especially since the 83 528e you're looking at is only a few years newer. They are stupidly cheap, parts are inexpensive and readily available, they're simple to work on, lacking many of the electronic gizmos that the newer cars have. They're comfortable, built like tanks, and there are lots of cheap mods you can make to juice 'em up. They were the state of the art for their time, but hold their own even today. I drive one because I want to, not because I have to. You can get a 79-81 528i with decent mileage for anywhere from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand, depending on condition. I recently saw an 81 528i advertised in Houston, 84K on the clock, 5 speed, and in good condition for $2K. If I had a choice (and I did) of an 83 528e and a 79-81 528i and the cars were in similar condition, I'd go with the e12. Personally, I'd focus on a 79-81 because they have fuel injection, lack the dreaded thermal reactors, and get better gas mileage. Just my nickels worth. Jim Davis BMWCCA #160812 97 Z3 2.8 80 528i ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 17:04:45 -0500 From: Rich Beebe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 m3's Edwin S. MacVaugh wrote: > > stock examples of these cars are apparently starting to dry up. > Dry up? I heard they all leak! Except the eBay one . . . i don't drive mine, do they leak???? rich beebe ncc <g> ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #131 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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