[uucdigest] Friday, January 28 2000 Volume 03 : Number 142 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] How to kill a resistor Re: [uuc] How to kill a resistor [uuc] About the ticket Re: [uuc] RE: New To List [uuc] F S Wheels for E30 ....incl IX [uuc] E30 Armrest/console FS [uuc] Front Lower control arm Re: [uuc] Re: [E36M3] Legend Five - Caliper Paint [uuc] Re: Harnesses [uuc] RE: [uucdigest] V3 #141 [uuc] traffic tickets and laws [uuc] cops... [uuc] Clean car = enthusiast? Hah! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 11:01:47 -0800 From: Eric Fournier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] How to kill a resistor Bing! We have a winner. This is exactly what I was looking for! Of course, you Lockheed Martin guys. I got a similar response from Chris Smith. You two know each other? Here's the next question. Would it be foolish to go the wrecking yard to get a replacement fan? (new is around $360) Is there a way to test the motors to try and pick the best specimen? Measure resistance and pick the one with the least? Thanks, Eric "Chao, Harvey" wrote: > > The purpose of the resistor is to drop the input voltage to the fan to a > value lower than the battery voltage, this produces a slower fan speed. > > The Resistor produces a voltage drop according to Ohm's law, Voltage (drop) > = resistance x current. > > OK - the DESIGN condition is that the fan draws a certain current which > flows through a fixed resistance and produces a given voltage drop and ta-da > - we get the desired voltage drop and slower fan speed. > > BUT - we also get power dissipated as heat as a result of the voltage drop. > The power dissipated in the resistor is expressed in watts, and is equal to > the value of the resistor and the square of the current it is passing. > > So, since we know the design current that the fan draws, and the value of > the resistance necessary to produce the desired voltage drop/fan speed, we > can calculate and size the resistor to handle the necessary dissipation ( I > think it is pretty high, on the order of 30-50 watts). > > Now, as the fan ages, and the bearings (can) start to contribute more drag > than the original design intended, the current draw of the fan will increase > (in extreme cases to where the fan won't run any longer) the current draw of > the fan will increase. It doesn't have to go up a lot before the increased > current draw increases the power dissipation in the dropping resistor goes > up beyond it's ability to dissipate the heat (remember the power is a > function of the SQUARE of the current, so for example, a current increase > of 50% yields a 225% increase in power dissipation) . Most (at least any > that I can think of) power resistors can handle a small excess dissipation > perhaps 10-20 % for a nominal time but will fail prematurely, and when the > increase becomes larger, then the resistor starts to think about > transforming itself into a fuse! :-) > > Harvey > - I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off > and use a Mac. " Author Unknown > - Dragged over to the "Dark Side" under duress This day, Thursday, 9/16/99 > - A dark day indeed! > - Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product. > -- Ferenc Mantfeld ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 11:05:24 -0800 From: Eric Fournier <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] How to kill a resistor Nice explanation, BUT I'm talking about the auxiliary cooling fan, you know, the one in front of the radiator. :-) Don Eilenberger wrote: > > Ummmm... I'll take a flying guess at this, Eric is fanless so..: > > >Here's a question for the tech heads. I recently replaced a dead > >resistor on the auxiliary cooling fan's low speed circuit. Two days > >later, the new resistor is dead. No continuity (infinite resistance) > >when measured at the resistor. Could the fan have killed the new > >resistor? The fan still works at high speed and the rest of the circuit > >is working properly. > > > >Thanks, > > > >Eric > >GGC > >87 E30 M3 > > OK... when you say the 'rest of the circuit is working correctly' > exactly what do you mean? > > This is gonna be a lot longer answer than you might have expected, > so unless you wanna know all about the resistor pack - hit CTLR/D > now! You've been warned! > > Normally if the fan resistor opens up - only high speed (which is > direct without the resistor) works. > > Now - to why. The usual failure of the BMW fan resistors is NOT > the resistors - it's the thermal-overtemp fuse that is part of the > circuit, and is there so the resistor doesn't get SO hot that it > causes a fire (and for it to actually burn up - it has to get > THAT hot). I have heard/seen lots of the pack with open fuses, > and only heard of one where the actual resistive element went > kaput. > > So - what causes the thermal-fuse to open? Two things I can think > of: (1) fan on - with all vents closed. I believe some models have > switches on the vent controls which are supposed to shut the fan > off in this case - but these may fail. Some models may not have > these safeguard switches.. (2) fan worn out and drawing more > current than it should.. also very possible. The resistor MUST > have air flowing across it to cool it - or the thermal fuse > will open to prevent it overheating.. (why all vents closed is > a BAD thing if the fan continues to run). > > How to fix the thermal fuse? Well.. if you were really stupid or > a risk taker, you could jumper around it.. but since I know you're > not.. > > I would suspect the fuse uses a solder called "woods-metal" > which is a low temperature melting solder (it's also used in fire > sprinklers - as the temperature released plug). Woods metal melts > at about 170F or so.. and is commonly used for this sort of > application (it's also used in the thermal-fuses in your > coffee pots..) > > The fuse contacts on the resistor pack look like relay contacts > - soldered together. When the fuse overheats, the solder holding > them closed melts and the contacts open up due to a spring force on > the moveable contact. > > To fix - you could try heating the contacts with a soldering iron > and holding them closed until they cool off. There may be enough > woods-metal left to hold it closed. Or - if you have woods-metal > around (I do, don't ask..) - you could try adding a bit to the contacts > while heating them and holding them closed. > > Or - you can go to the dealer and fork over $14 for a new resistor > pack. > > To check if the vent switch is there (or working) put the fan on > HIGH speed (bypassing the resistor pack entirely) and try closing > all the vents (don't leave them like this for long..) If the fan > continues to run - there is no vent switch, or it isn't working. > > Best (snow sucks), > > ........................................ > Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: > http://www.monmouth.com/~deilenberger > You're absolutely right, and I apologize > --Darryl Richman > ........................................ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 15:01:01 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] About the ticket Hey guys, Sorry for causing so much fuss on the digest...it was a careless not reckless driving ticket. 2 points. 78 dollars. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 14:05:58 -0600 From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: New To List Hi there Alex > Technically the two inspection types are different ('I' is a > glorified oil change, 'II' actually involves changing disposable parts), but > both are overpriced. They really are, and I do agree with you there on that one. The dealer should have reset your oil light regardless. Exactly, this has never happened before, I have always had my lights reset. Thats why I called them. They said they could do it on Saturday. Im going to. Thanks for stating that for me. > Which dealership did you go to: Classic, Moriz or John R? All of > them are bordering on pathetic, but there are a few good mechanics at John R Oh really John Roberts has good mechanics..great. I went to Moritz. > if you can fight your way to them through the clueless tech writers. > Autobahn in Fort Worth is much much better, but they are a bit too far from > Dallas for regular maintenance. Yes they are, but I'm considering buying a new car. For some odd reason, I have in my head I would like to have a 323. But I might wait until next year to get a 2000 one. I don't want a brand new one, maybe with 6,000 miles on it or so. Not more that 10,000. One that is still under warranty. The cost then won't be so over barring. > I would look for an independent mechanic instead, now that you are > out of warranty. Having said that, it's easier said then done. I moved to TX > 1 1/2 years ago and still am not 100% happy with local independents. Oh no, and I've been here two years, will be 3 in March, and I haven't found a good one yet. Mine in Virginia was just everything to me. I do understand what it is you're saying. > If you live in north Dallas, drop me a line and I will tell you > which independents to avoid in that area (hint: if you see Porsche's on the > lot => you will be charged through the nose ;). Oh heavenly days..no..I live in Arlington, know of any in this area? Im about to check out these guys on Carrier Parkway. Auto World Service Center, I will call BBB before ever attempting. There rates are too cheap for words. After going to the dealer, and hearing how cheap they are, it will make you wonder. I was shocked when the guy told me 59.00 dollars for inspection I. > good luck, > and watch out for ice tonight. Thanks so much, you do the same. I called in, and didn't go to work tonight, that ice here scars me. I might try and go in today, the streets look so much clearer. Celisa ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 13:15:26 -0000 From: "BMW Bits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] F S Wheels for E30 ....incl IX ACT Type LS (like BBS X-spoke with hex nut caps ) 15x7 with Pirelli 190 SNOW TAHRS . Came off Satch Carlsons IX (Bad Dog ).....$550 FOB Seattle . Fittipaldi 5-spoke CHROMES ..two sets ..With large centrecaps 6J14H2 ET33 ,with Michelin 205/60MXV4 (5/10K left )$550/set 15x7 ET26 (came from E21 ) ,NO tahrs ,$450 DP5 replicas 15x6 ,white , ET35 ,large center cap $420/set Enkei directionals 14x6 (5 tapered cutouts ,white highlights )-new wheels -large center caps ,Mounted Visa VX 185/60/14,one new, others have 25k left ,$450/set . 14x6 cokebottles from 'perfect' factory gold-painted to 'just so-so ' ordinary ..priced accordingly ,with/w/out tires ALL FOB Seattle .Digipics avail if U R serious...no tirekickers please!! Bill Proud ,29 yrs messing with BMWs ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 13:15:24 -0000 From: "BMW Bits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 Armrest/console FS All this UUC talk on subj reminds me I have a 'perfect' one needing a new home.An easy UUC Project ,pleases the S O with 'the place' for a cuppa java. Mfd by Husco in Wilton Ct ,but genuwine BMW part . Black vinyl ,black metal parts .All glistening and shiny .$80 FOB Seattle . Bill Proud ,29yrs messing with BMWs ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 12:26:14 PST From: "Perry Shang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Front Lower control arm Hi, all: As winter progresses, I feel like I feed the car some parts in order for it to live in the winter. Anyway, I was looking on the net to find me M3 Front lower control arm. The lowest price I found is from Nick Alexander BMW in CA. Joe quote me a price $130.05. Now, is there anyone out there can beat this price? also, do I have to get control arm bushing with it. Or any other bushing that I would also need? I have a 95 325is, I do some driving school and autoX, so a well maintaned and long life parts are my priority. thanks in advance. Perry. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 14:54:08 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: [E36M3] Legend Five - Caliper Paint Jim said: >Doesn't always happen. I wonder if its a problem with mixing the 2 part >epoxy or not letting it set properly before painting. They don't all >turn dark brown. Well, I saw several cars that it occured on. Everything was mixed accurately and had several months to cure before the first track event. It may be due to tracks with a lot of intense braking combined with "smaller" brakes for the size of the car (E30 325 w/ pf90s at Summit Point and CMP). I might try the high temp paint first because of the reduced cost ($3 vs $50). The realy way to do it is to get them powder coated, that is a whole other ballgame. Don't get me wrong, I thought it looked great initially, but I was a little disappointed after, especially after the cost. John ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 12:58:34 -0800 From: Jim Ochi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Harnesses At 08:40 AM 1/28/00 -0500, Robert S Verenna wrote: > >Actually, the Profi-2 can be used in a 4-point setup as well, according >to the guys at HMS Motorsports. It has the ASM (anti-submarine) loop in >the shoulder belt just like the DOT approved Rallye's. It is a cam-lock >configuration, but I think you got the belts sizes swapped - the >shoulder belts are all 3", while the lap belts for the Profi-2 are 2". > Thanks to both Robert Verenna and Frank Massaro for the correction - it was late, I was tired, and I remembered that the Profi-2 had staggered sizes while the Profi-3 didn't. Guess my muddled brain cells got the sizes reversed... Jim "Does JimC make a chip for the brain?" Ochi [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 16:20:32 -0500 From: "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: [uucdigest] V3 #141 On a similar note, if the sh*t piles high enough, watch out for snow or frozen ice in your tail pipes. So David, are you going to be at the chapter event on Feb 5th (at Euromeccanica?) . I hear Jim "the shark" Conforti is going to be there, with Josh installing chips!! That alone is going to bring me over. I have been waiting for just such an occasion to get my '94 325i sharked! Do you know what chips Josh is bringing with him? Josh, you here on the list? I sent you a mail, but didn't get a reply... JimC? Zach '94 325i M50TU/B25 M3.3.1 sport (aka sport pkg.) > > Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 13:42:39 -0500 > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] FYI: Winter Warning - Scary Experience > > > Moral of the story: If there is a major snow/ice storm, > besides digging out your > car from the snow, look into the wheels and see if there is > any snow or ice > stuck in there before you drive!! > > > > Regards, > > David:.............................................______ > '93 325ic <E30>.................................o/__ ___\o > ���������������������������������������� > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 16:24:30 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] traffic tickets and laws it was posted: <<Many states have a mandatory law concerning the number of vehicles that can be following you. If you hit that number you are required to pull over and let the other vehicles pass.>> I suppose that it is quite possible, but never in my life have I ever witnessed a cop go after a dingbat driver that has decided to camp in the left lane for mile after mile, holding up traffic for dozens of cars behind them. Traveling on the freeway would be so much more enjoyable if it did happen. Hell, probably safer too. Ken '95 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 13:31:33 PST From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] cops... John F. writes: >>>Now....the first unit we saw, was speeding. No lights/siren. Why? well >>>is it WAS the suspect, they are alerted to the police presence >>>prematurely. Next, if it was the suspect, it gives them ample opportunity >>>to take foot bail, which leads to a host of other problems and safety >>>concerns, or they could flee in the vehicle...again causing a host of >>>other problems-all under massive public scrutiny.<<< I am aware of the reasons they run without lights/sirens. However, what makes a speeding police cruiser without lights/sirens safer than a 'civilian' car committing the same traffic offenses? (hint: little or nothing.) Ok, police get some driver training. However, they are (crown vics) heavier (inflict more damage) don't stop/corner as well as my BMW. So why do I get a ticket if I am no less safe? (And probably more safe.) Gilbert Hoffman ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 13:41:00 -0800 From: Jim Ochi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Clean car = enthusiast? Hah! So, there I was, cruising down the freeway on my daily commute to work. In the next lane, there was a beautiful, clean, shiny, totally stock cosmos black M3/4. I'm in my cosmos black M3/2, with cone marks on the rocker panels and air dam, splash shield held on with duct tape, dirt all over (haven't had time to wash it in a month or so), paint chips all over the nose from road debris, keyed paint on the trunk (haven't had time to get it fixed, with autocrosses almost every weekend...), squealing brake pads (but they stop really great!), rattling springs in the front coilovers (gotta fix them this weekend), tech stickers on the windshield, cat paw prints tracking across the hood, etc. etc. etc. So, who's the enthusiast? Who cares more about their car? I dunno - all I know is that I glanced over and he had as big of a smile on his face as I did.... Jim Ochi [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #142 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
