[uucdigest] Thursday, February 3 2000 Volume 03 : Number 183 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] cute widdle bunny [uuc] <E30> Stuck Rotor Mounting Screw. Reply. [uuc] Key stuck to tongue - now what [uuc] Wheel Color. My Opinion. Re: [uuc] E32 735i- broken mounts for vent actuator motors Re: [uuc] FS TRX tires on ebay... Re: [uuc] Cold weather & heating Re: [uuc] Cold weather & heating [uuc] Stripped hex head Re: [uuc] Wheel Color Re: [uuc] RE: <E-30><ALL> Stuck / Stripped Brake Mounting Hex Bolt HELP!!!!!! [uuc] Re: E32 735i- broken mounts for vent actuator motors BA Re: [uuc] <E-30><ALL> Stuck / Stripped Brake Mounting Hex Bolt HELP!!!!!! RE: [uuc] Cold weather & heating Re: [uuc] Cold weather & heating Re: [uuc] Frozen Lock Trick ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 14:16:05 -0500 From: "Mike Dean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] cute widdle bunny >Wanna see what happens when a cute fuzzy widdle bunny ventures onto the >track? >Not for the squeamish. >http://www.dailyrotten.com/haresplat.mpg >Michael That's some pretty good camera work.. Someone saw that coming. Mike Dean ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:13:57 -0500 From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Stuck Rotor Mounting Screw. Reply. Brian: I would try the following: 1. Strike directly on the screw with a hard hammer. This might break the rust and make it easier to turn out. Steve D'Gerolamo once recommended I do this. It does work. 2. Cut a small notch into one edge of the set screw and use a cold chisel and hammer to tap on the screw and to turn it out that way. Hopefully there is enough material to do this. Jack Money and I once removed a rotor (distributor rotor, that is) allen bolt (3 mm) with this method. We cut the notch with a cutting wheel. Also, we recommend this as a method for removing rusted on damper collars from strut housings. 3. Drill out the top of the screw and take off the rotor. You can easy-out the rest of it later. Or you could try drilling the whole thing out and tapping out the hole again. I did this on my 86 325 one time and it worked. Even if you do not replace the screw it should be OK. It is only a locator and holds the rotor only when you remove the wheel. 4. If you have never heard of PB Blaster, you need to get a can and use this stuff on all future projects of this nature. In fact, get two cans and add some to your morning cereal! It's that good! I cannot be sure, but I think Jack Money does drink the stuff! Jack? When you put everything back together make 'assurance doubly sure' (as Lady Macbeth once put it) you put anti-seize on all mating surfaces and the locator/set screw. Neil Deshpande 1988 325 iS 1989 325 iC ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 14:14:58 -0500 From: "Phemister, George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Key stuck to tongue - now what At least Duane didn't suggest seeking Hooter's staff to assist in warming up the key. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:18:19 -0500 From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Wheel Color. My Opinion. Everytime I clean my car I notice how much better the clean Polaris Silver 600 (a close match I believe) makes the car look. I am thinking of redoing my wheels too and have considered the darker silver/grey of the Evo E30 M3 (which has a lighter rim which may be difficult to achieve in practise), the silverer silver of the E39 M5 and the Polaris of the E30. Bob Goppold used a darker silver DaimlerChrysler color that looks pretty nice. It does not, however, stand out as much as the stock color, which really makes the cars look 'new'. I would go stock! Neil Deshpande 1988 325 iS 1989 325 iC ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 14:27:55 -0500 (EST) From: Joe Walsh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E32 735i- broken mounts for vent actuator motors On my previously owned '89 535i, I was able to get a plastic wiretie around the motor and the broken mount. This held the motor in place quite well. That is, until a close encounter with Bambi and a cement barrier brought a quick and sudden end to my girlfriends life. http://www.nauticom.net/www/walshjl/images/crash.htm Joe '92 325is http://www.nauticom.net/www/walshjl/images/325is.htm ======================================================================= | Joe (life's been good to me) Walsh - Lead Systems Programmer | |---------------------------------------------------------------------| | SMS(Systems Management Specialists)| [EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Westinghouse Energy Center | Voice: 412-374-4563 | | P.O.Box 355 | Fax: 412-374-3709 | | Bay W-244A | | | Monroeville, PA 15230 | WIN: 284-4563 | ======================================================================= NT makes the easy stuff easy, and the rest impossible. Unix makes everything possible, but nothing too easy. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 14:25:51 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] FS TRX tires on ebay... That size is for a Ford Escort. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Saw these on ebay and "THINK" they are TRX tires for E28 cars...A steal if > they are... > Check it out... > 5 MICHELIN TIRES 165/70HR365 TRX NEW > Item #251111520 > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251111520 > > Absolutely no affiliation with the seller....just a messenger out surfin... > Dave ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 14:29:26 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Cold weather & heating Exactly right. Time when cold is the worst thing. Warm it up quickly. Regarding the vents, the heat comes from the floor vents under the seats. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I've heard this for all cars; letting them warm up slowly increases > the time that the engine is running cold, which is bad. Warming up > quickly (by starting it and driving asap, keeping revs low as > mentioned) is a better solution. Or so I've read. > > On another topic, my E34 won't, under any circumstances, blow heat out > the vents for the back seats (the vents in the back of the center > console). Those vents don't react to either side of the heat/cool > controls. > > Is heat EVER supposed to come out of those? > > -- > Just Moe > '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 14:37:12 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Cold weather & heating Cold oil is not such a big deal for driving sedately, it is for full throttle and redline, though. You want to get the coolant warm so the fuel stops condensing on the cold cylinder walls and washing off the oil. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I've heard this for all cars; letting them warm up slowly increases > > the time that the engine is running cold, which is bad. Warming up > > quickly (by starting it and driving asap, keeping revs low as > > mentioned) is a better solution. Or so I've read. > > This is true from what I have heard. I know that for air-cooled > 911's, it is even more important to get out and drive the car > instead of letting it warm up at idle revs. In fact, I even > think that BMW states in the owner's manual to avoid warming the > car up at idle. I just wonder whether the benefit of getting > it warmed up quicker (getting the oil thin) is offset by the > increased revs during driving. At idle you are, of course, only > spinning at 1,000 or less....at speed you are twice that for the > most part....and the engine is still cold for a bit. I would > really like to know the exact reason this legend is out there. > Does a mechanical engineer reside on the list to explain? > > Alex Cagann > 88///M5 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 14:51:44 -0500 From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Stripped hex head >Subject: [uuc] <E-30><ALL> Stuck / Stripped Brake Mounting Hex Bolt HELP!!!!!! > >I have a stuck / almost all the way stripped Brake Disc Mounting Bolt (1). >What to do next..... Various options depending on how much of the hex is still left: 1: Get a GOOD bit to fit in there (Snap-on, etc,) , then heat the screw with a handheld torch, use a handheld impact to strike it. You may only get one chance at it. 2. Weld a nut on it that you can then get off with a open end wrench (Hi Pat!) 3. Drill the head off. Rotor will fall away and you can (hopefully) get on the remaining threads with Vice Grips. - - Duane Collie The Seven Sled ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 14:52:01 -0500 (EST) From: Joe Walsh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Wheel Color Checkout: http://www.g-power.de/pr_5er_e39m5.htm there's a black E39 M5 with black wheels. Might give you a better feel for the final looks. Joe ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:50:04 -0500 From: Eurowerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: <E-30><ALL> Stuck / Stripped Brake Mounting Hex Bolt HELP!!!!!! Just did this job today...... The aforementioned advice is good, except for the "RED" Loctite suggestion. Don't use red Loctite on anything that you ever want to remove again, use the blue instead. If you look closely at the labels, you will see that red is permanent, blue is medium hold. I use blue on almost everything. Unless you have a torch, I would not recommend using the red version.... Just a thought, from someone who does this everday!!! Derek van Veen wrote: > Been there...done that. > > Just drill out the bolt to the point where you can remove the old brake > rotor with a rubber or rawhide mallet. Once the rotor is out of the way, > you should have more than enough bolt left to remove it with pliers or > vice-grips. Your BMW parts department should have the replacement allen > bolts for about $3.00 each. > > You may want to try and get replacement caliper mounting bolts (the smaller > ones that mount the caliper to the bracket) as they theoretically should be > replaced at the same time as the pads/rotors. If not, clean them really > well and use loctite red on them to prevent them from vibrating loose (the > bolts are a special one-time locking thread bolt according to BMW). > > Also, a largish C-Clamp works really well for pushing the caliper piston > back in so you can install new pads (watch out for brake fluid overflow!!!!) > > Good luck! > > -Derek > '90 325is (which has a set of ATE's waiting to be installed, incidentally) - -- Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 606-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / www.euromajic.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 15:07:20 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E32 735i- broken mounts for vent actuator motors BA > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] E32 735i- broken mounts for vent actuator motors > I have an '88 735i which is in the process of getting a new heater > core. While I was taking things apart, I found that both of the > motors that control flow to the driver and passenger sides of the car > had broken off of their mounts. This is a very common problem on 88 E32's. It's actually one of the main reasons why I tell people not to buy an 88. Unless it's been rectified. These two motors control hot/cold regulation of the centre dash vents. When they are broken, you can't change the setting of these vents, so your passenger may always have cold and driver may always have hot, etc. Labour to do the job runs at a minimum of 14 hours as the heater box has to come out of the car to have the top half of the housing replaced. > Anyway, I'm not going to drop $500 for these parts. I'm considering > glueing and reinforcing the broken parts that I have, but would like > to hear any other experiences with this problem. You can try some epoxy, it might work temporarily. BMW stated that the reason for the failure of the plastic was due to contamination from grease leaking from the stepper motors. When these cars were fixed under warranty, they had us replace ALL the stepper motors if they were prior to a certain production date, although I've never heard of any other bracket breaking. > Specifically, does anyone know if the updated parts came on a later > model E32 so that I might scavenge them off of a parts car? Or can > you adapt the original motors to fit on the new cover? Suggestions? The motors mount the same. I would suggest epoxying your brackets back on and re-using your existing motors. If you want to do the job correctly, be safe and buy parts from a 1990 or later E32. Brett Anderson www.koalamotorsport.com Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 15:11:32 -0500 From: Eurowerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E-30><ALL> Stuck / Stripped Brake Mounting Hex Bolt HELP!!!!!! I have been servicing Mercedes Benz and BMW's professionally for 10 years and have tried every penetrant on the planet. No one has made one yet that will work as quickly and efficiently as PB Blaster'. Excellent referral Alex!!! "Cagann, Alexander" wrote: > For people whom perform alot of DIY work and have > an older vehicle they work on, I would strongly > suggest the use of PB Blaster as a means to > loosen rusted or "heat welded" nuts and bolts. > I was able to remove a catalytic converter > that was on a 1982 911 for 18 years and over > 100,000 miles. I have used this stuff with the > most amazing results and have found no other > product that comes close. Does anyone else > use this great product? It stinks to high heaven > but sure as hell does the job. > > Alex Cagann > 88///M5 - -- Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 606-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / www.euromajic.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 15:26:34 -0500 From: "Holmes, Michael A (Michael)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Cold weather & heating Looks like something odd is going on with mine then. Maybe the fan is no longer connected to the fan motor, because things are fine when I move forward and I can hear a fan motor I'm sure. Mike > -----Original Message----- > From: David Weston [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2000 1:03 PM > To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' > Subject: RE: [uuc] Cold weather & heating > > Michael Holmes writes: > > >>On all the other cars I have had, I put the windshield defroster on > whilst > I > >>scrape the ice/snow off, but on the BMW (95 M3) it just doesn't help. > > >>Any ideas, is that normal ? > > I don't know which "is normal" but I do this all of the time with my > 95 ///M3 and it melts the ice on the windshield just fine. If yours is > normal, I am going to leave mine Broke! > > David ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 15:06:27 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Cold weather & heating Joe Walsh writes: > Nope, the rear center vent is fresh air only. Close it > for the winter and rely on the vents under the front seats > to heat the back. > > Joe Ah. I s'pose that's mentioned somewhere in the owner's manual. Loved your work with the James Gang, by the way. The Eagles were holdin you back, man. =) thanks - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 15:32:37 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Frozen Lock Trick Whatever you do, be careful not to turn the key while it is in your mouth. You'll start up your head that way. - - Rob - ----- Original Message ----- From: Duane Collie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Get stuck with a frozen lock and no chemicals, hair dryer, etc., you simply > stick the whole key blade in your mouth until it's about 98 degrees body > temp, then stick it in the frozen lock. > - Duane Collie > The Seven Sled <remote key trigger, no need to suck on keys > > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #183 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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