[uucdigest]          Monday, February 7 2000          Volume 03 : Number 213



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] FUEL PUMP-HELP!
       re: [uuc] how to use multimeter
       RE: [uuc] 97 E36 M3
       [uuc] Removing wax on black trim pieces.
       [uuc] Re: <ot> Attorney needed for unfair termination
       [uuc] Re: <ot> Attorney needed for unfair termination
       [uuc] RE:X5s and SUVs
       [uuc] FS-E30 M3 in Canada
       [uuc] V1 False Laser Alarms Follow-up
       [uuc] Bosch Universal O2 Sensor Question again
       [uuc] Speaker Question
       [uuc] <E28> Door Panel Removal
       Re: [uuc] I'm liking Chester more and more..
       RE: [uuc] O2 Sensor Installation  **URGENT**
       [uuc] Re: 1995 M3 e36 Exhaust for Sale
       [uuc] Taxes and Weight

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 14:59:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Troiano <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] FUEL PUMP-HELP!

Hey everyone, well my 91' 318is wont start. We have
tested the fuses and the relays for the fuel pump and
they check out good.  Also replaced the fuel pressure
regulator and it still wont start. Disconnected the
fuel line into the fuel rail and no squirts.  Need a
little help here!  1. Does anyone know where I can get
a factory fuel pump at a good price 2. Should I use a
different model fuel pump for better performance or
longer life? 3. Does anyone make a high performance
fuel pump.  Any help would be great! Thanks again.
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 18:01:48 -0500
From: Jeff Berg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: re: [uuc] how to use multimeter

It was written:

A company by the name of "Fluke" makes a good multimeter.

That's akin to saying "A company by the name of 'BMW' makes a good 
car." Fluke is the SnapOn of multimeters. In addition to their 
"regular" models they make meters specifically for automotive work if 
you're willing to pay the extra $$$--and think you need the added 
features. Get all the details at <http://www.fluke.com>. A basic 
Fluke meter sells for about $100. Last time I checked the least 
expensive auto model was around $300--but it looks like they've 
changed that line a bit and added at least one "basic" model.

Basic Fluke meters can be purchased at Sears these days. Auto meters 
can only be sourced from special dealers in that product line. (How 
'bout Steve D'G?) You'll want to consider extra test leads--I like 
BIG 'gator clips to maintain ground. Also an insulation-piercing lead 
is also nice to have.

Using a meter is almost self-explanatory. (Save for some of the 
esoteric features.) As has already been stated, the trick is learning 
*what* to test for. A little electronics theory goes a long way.

jab

==
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  http://www.ovlr.org/jberg/
  BMW CCA #162528        Empire Rover Owners Society #000002
  '95 318is  "The Shark"  (sharked) '67 Series IIa 88" "FINSUP"
      "Looking for a smart woman in a real short skirt."
                                               --J. Buffett

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 18:04:34 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] 97 E36 M3

<<I have tried to read the check engine codes on my M3 by pumping the gas 5 
x, but
this does not seem to work with my model... Does any one happen to know how to
do this on a 97? Also I have seen posts about the secrets of the OBC, ie. how 
to
get it to show instant RPM, Oil temp.. etc.. Does anyone have this for my car 
as
well...>>

Lee:

The gas stomp test will not work on post '96 M3's or DME versions MS 41.2. 
heck they won't even work for any OBD2 BMW. You would need to get a scanner 
or a scan tool to check your fault codes. I sent out the posting on the 
instrument cluster testing and it will work on your '97 M3. The OBC or any 
display doesnt show you oil temperature readings. You'll have to buy a gauge 
and sensor for that. Your instrument cluster however can show you engine 
speed. Good luck.

Jon Caldito
BMW STEP - Orlando
Class #8

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 18:05:55 -0500
From: Eric Carnell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Removing wax on black trim pieces.

Peanut butter!
        I had problems with Griot's Garage Best of Show Wax not coming off of
my black door trim pieces on my M3 (cheap plastic IMO--since my E34 trim
never collects wax).  I called Griot's to see what they recommended to
remove the stuff.  They sell a wax stripper but said to try peanut
butter first. It worked well.
        I usually apply a good quality vinyl preservative to the black trim
before waxing the car and that helps prevent wax from getting into the
pores.  Also avoid the one-step cleaner wax or petroleum based liquid
waxes as they stick to vinyl more.  I don't usually have problems with
Zymol showing up on the trim pieces.
        I like Griot's vinyl product.  I also like Black Again.  Forever Black
is a good product but only for re-dying faded black trim.  Don't use it
to cover up wax or dirt.  Use it only after the trim is faded and
thoroughly cleaned.
- --Eric Carnell
National Capital Chapter
'99 M3 (cheap black trim)
'91 M5 (trim still like new)
'95 540iA (like new, for sale)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 15:19:48 -0800
From: "Scott D Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: <ot> Attorney needed for unfair termination

When Chester said:

>Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 10:10:01 -0800 (PST)
>From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] <ot> Attorney needed for unfair termination
>
>No...not for me.  I need an attorney for my mom in the NYC region.
Basically
>what it boils down to is my mother is being asked to retire from her
company.
>She has worked there for 20+ years under different management.  So when
they
>offered her a "package", they wanted to short change her
<snip>
>
>Any referrals would be greatly appreciated.
>
>TIA,
>Chester

What Chester failed to note is that both his mother and the attorney that
she has not hired yet all drive BMWs (OBMWC), which is why he posted this
here.

Scott Miller

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 15:29:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: <ot> Attorney needed for unfair termination

=)  Well, actually, my father drives a '98 E38 740i and I drive a '99 E36 M3/2
and neither one of us will let my mom drive either car ;)  Actually, I won't
let anyone drive my car....only a few special people have ever planted their
butt in the pilot seat.  =)

I posted here to gain from the vast knowledge out there...

Thanks,
Chester

- --- Scott D Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
<snip
> 
> What Chester failed to note is that both his mother and the attorney that
> she has not hired yet all drive BMWs (OBMWC), which is why he posted this
> here.


=====

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 15:08:28 -0800
From: Ken Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE:X5s and SUVs

Kevin wrote
<A small number of Jeep GC and Land Rover owners may buy them as a
fashion statement, but I have a hard time believing that anyone would
buy a 3.5 tom monster wagon like the Excursion just to use as a
fashionable commuter car.>

You haven't been to Los Angeles have you?

- --
The past is over, learn from it.
The future is coming, prepare for it.
The present is here, enjoy it.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 16:47:34 -0700
From: "Rob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] FS-E30 M3 in Canada

    FOR SALE:
1989 E30 M3 - White/black ,61k miles,100% stock,never winter driven,original
and very nice.
The car is in western Canada but was originally a US car so can be sold back
to the US with ease.

Asking $14,500 US or $20,250 Cdn.

Posting for a friend.
thanks
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 18:48:58 -0500
From: "Henry Caldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] V1 False Laser Alarms Follow-up

First, thanks to all who responded to my V1 false alarms post. The majority
of responses said it was likely the dry cleaners neon sign causing my laser
alarm to activate. The V1 laser alarm will get your attention.
Sure enough its the neon sign, as confirmed by Valentine Research. When the
cleaners was closed this past weekend, I drove right up to it and got no
alarm. The neon sign was off. Today, the alarm goes wild when driven up to
the entrance. I'm now convinced no police behind the cleaners door.
Henry
'92 325i w/ V1 now at ease

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 19:00:05 EST
From: "Shawn Crews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Bosch Universal O2 Sensor Question again

On my old harness, I have a gray wire at north, black at east, and white at 
south and west.  On the new plug, I have the two whites opposite each other. 
  Does it matter which white gets spliced to which white?  If so, how do I 
tell which goes to which?

Thanks,
Shawn
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 19:10:50 -0500
From: "Henry Caldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Speaker Question

Keith writes:

<<I am upgrading my stereo system in my '91 M5 - I have a four channel
McIntosh
amp on the way (sub will be later in phase II).  For front speakers, I would
like recommendations on MB Quarts, Boston Acoustics, DynAudio, and Diamond
Audio speakers.>>

Before upgrading my speakers I listened to MB Quarts, Boston Acoustic and
Diamond. I bought the Diamond speakers as I felt they sounded better. The
tweeters were smoother and more extended. The mid-range is wonderful. I have
Magnaplanar speakers at home so good sound in the car is important. Adding a
sub will give you the bass impact needed for good sound. Consider JL Audio
subs and mini-subs. I have 1 8" mini-sub in the trunk that's works very well
without  the boominess of overdoing the bass.
Henry
'92 325i sounded good parked and on the road.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 17:17:29 -0700
From: "Richard F. Viehdorfer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Door Panel Removal

Good day to all... I have decided to inspect and attempt to rectify the cause
of the sloooow operation of my power windows in the 535i. I was in someone's
new car and was amazed at how speedy things work when they aren't 14 years
old! I have searched all of the 'net, my collection of digest posts for the
last 3+ years, the FAQs, etc., and I simply can't find anything on the process
and pitfalls of correctly removing a door panel from an E28.

I want to make sure I do this right because when I have done this is the past
I have always managed to screw it up, break something, or total a clip or two
so the panel doesn't go back on right. I DON'T want that to happen!

I am assuming that there is a tool that would be helpful with this process,
and perhaps someone has been down this road before me. I realize that Bentleys
discusses it, but the detail is a little meager. Can someone point me in the
right direction?

Once I get the door panel off, I am assuming I inspect, clean, and re-lube or
re-grease the motor and track. Are there  any specific points I need to look
for, and what kind of lube or grease, spray, etc. is recommended?

I will post the collective wisdom on the bimmer.org website as I complete the
project so others will know. It would be nice to have windows that work like
they are supposed to again! (even the power windows in the E12 are faster at
this point...).

TYIA!

Rick Viehdorfer
BMW CCA #148771
Rocky Mountain Chapter

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 19:36:32 -0500
From: Chaz Yoon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] I'm liking Chester more and more..

That's not always true. I don't tailgate and I try to leave at least
three seconds ahead of me, preferrably five. But in dense traffic
moving at at least 65 mph on New England roads, which are heavily
salted and sanded, problems happen EVEN IF you maintain the proper
distance. The worst problems occur when someone takes advantage of the
five second gap ahead of you and turns it into a two second one,
sending all the salt and sand that has accumulated in between the
lanes flying in a visible cloud.

Everyone's experienced the occasional cracked windshield and the
pocked front bumper. Some of it has to do with tailgating, but hey,
shit happens.

Chaz

On Mon, Feb 07, 2000 at 04:44:12PM -0500, Don Eilenberger wrote:
> EXACTLY. I frequently hear about 'BMW paint chips soooo easy" or
> "BMW uses soft windshields"..
> 
> Horsepucky. If you got those kinda problems - you're tailgating..
> 
> Can you count to 3?  Let the car in front of you pass a stationary
> object - count 1-1000, 2-1000, 3-1000.. if *you* got to the stationary
> object before the 3-1000 - you're tailgating. You deserve all the
> stone dings and windshield chips the habit gives'ya.
> 
> I *hate* tailgaters - especially when I'm on the real-BMW (two
> wheeled one).. where their lack of attention (usually tailgating
> is combined with coffee drinking, cell-phone-talking - your usual
> self-centered SOB's of both sexes) could spoil my day in a big
> way.
> 
> BACK OFF DAMMIT!
> 
> /mondayrantmodeoff
> 
> I feel better now.
> 
> dje/slh/nj/k100rt/mcoupe (short UUC sig)
> 

- -- 
Chaz Yoon
http://christabel.mit.edu/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 19:48:18 -0500
From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] O2 Sensor Installation  **URGENT**

Shawn asks:

>HELP!!!!!!!!  I got a generic 4-wire O2 sensor from Steve D'G.  I cut the 
>old and new to splice the old connector with the new sensor, but the wires 
>are different.  In the old, #1 is gray, #2 black, #3 and #4 white.  In the 
>new, #1 is black, #2 and #3 are white, and #4 is gray.  Do I connect #1 with 
>#1 or black with black?  I'm assuming that black is ground and I'd want to 
>connect the colors.  Can someone tell me for sure ASAP, since my car is up 
>on jackstands now and I need to get to work tomorrow morning?

Shawn - not sure what you mean by #1,2,3,4 - do you mean the
pins on the connectors?? If so - ignore the numbers and connect
the colors. White is the heater, black is the signal and gray is
the ground for the signal.

>Also, is there a way to change diff fluid without a 14mm hex bit or hex 
>wrench?  This advice can wait, but please give me some O2 advice!!!

Prolly not.. and make SURE you remove the fill plug FIRST, nothing
like getting the drain plug out and finding out that the fill plug
is frozen in place (aside from turning the car over to fill it - you're
screwed..)

>Thanks,
>Shawn

Best,


dje.slh.nj.mcoupe (short sig from home for UUC use)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 16:48:21 -0800
From: James Dye <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: 1995 M3 e36 Exhaust for Sale

For Sale:

Exhaust from my 1995 M3, perfect condition.  Boxed, ready to ship.

$200.00

Jim Dye
925-736-1650

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 14:44:16 -0800
From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Taxes and Weight

Jonathan Reiser wrote:

:Lux tax is based on price, not weight and applies to all
:vehicles exceeding somewhere around 32k....  it is a percentage
:of the amount above that number.  Therefore, if your car costs
:50k, you pay a percentage of the difference between 32 and 50.
:If there is an additional tax on SUVs based on their
:weight it, it isn't the lux tax.

Heavy vehicles are in fact exempt from the Gas Guzzler tax and Luxury
tax (at least they were a year ago when I researched the information
below for a Land Rover Buyers guide).  I know you can still depreciate
big SUVs quite a bit faster than cars since last week someone on the
Land Rover list posted a summary of a Land Rover Scotsdale ad that
detailed how if you use your Land Rover for Business it will cost a lot
less to drive than a BMW.

Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA and Northern CA Rover Club

Some people may find there are tax advantages of buying a newer Land
Rover.  The IRS allows the owners of vehicles used for business purposes
with a Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) of over 6,000 lbs. depreciate a larger
portion of the vehicle+IBk-s value annually than can owners of vehicles with
a GVW under 6,000 lbs.  For years the IRS has given big trucks, (that
usually cost much more than cars, and often wear out faster) favorable
depreciation treatment.  In the 80+IBk-s the government picked the 6,000
pound GVW as the cut off between cars, light trucks and heavy commercial
trucks for deprecation purposes.  The GVW of the 1987-1991 Range Rover
was 5997 but it went up to 6019 in 1992.   All Land Rovers sold in the
United States after 1992 (D90, D110, Discovery, Range Rover Classic,
Discovery, Range Rover MkII, and Discovery SII)  have a GVW over 6,000
lbs.  The main reason that Land Rover raised the GVW of all the models
to over 6,000 lbs. was to avoid the Gas Guzzler tax and Luxury taxes on
new vehicles.  Heavy trucks are exempt from both the Gas Guzzler and
Luxury Tax.  All used vehicles sold in the United States are exempt from
both the Luxury tax and Gas Guzzler tax.

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #213
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