[uucdigest] Friday, February 18 2000 Volume 03 : Number 289 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Diagnose my E36 problem. Need Help. [uuc] <WOB> RE: [uuc] Re: Ebay M3 madness Re: [uuc] Diagnose my E36 problem. Need Help. Re: [uuc] Diagnose my E36 problem. Need Help. [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question RE: [uuc] Earl's SS brake line purchase Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question [uuc] Re: Chelsea's Dates RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question [uuc] Re: M528e R-Type ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 07:32:37 -0800 (PST) From: Racer X <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Diagnose my E36 problem. Need Help. I recently installed an intake/HFM/ and chip in my 95 M3. My car has been on a 2 week vacation due to the winter weather. Last weekend I uncovered it and drove it into my garage to install the intake/HFM/& chip. After a successful install, I decided to leave it in the garage and wait til Wenesday's 60 degree temp to drive it to work. Wed morning came and the car would not start. I turned the key and it would crank but not turn over. One the third attempt, there was no cranking nor any clicking, all the gauges turned on and worked. So this leads me to believe its not a battery problem. One weird thing did occur: the RPM needle began to swing sporadically and a wierd eletrical hum eminated from behind the instrument cluster. I tried to start it a day later and it started to crank and hum (electrical) but no sporadic needle movement. Is this a starter problem? Is this a do it yourself repair? I am hesitant to call the dealer because of the chip install and the fact that I haven't even allowed the CPU to adjust to the new chip. Any suggestions would be a big help? Thanks. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 10:39:36 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <WOB> Is anyone on this list in Hungary (the country, not the state of being). Thank you. Please contact me. Michel ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:45:03 -0700 From: "vanderHeide, Alain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: Ebay M3 madness Nailed on the head Jon. Asking prices (Denver area) seem to be $10-11k for a car with < 100k miles (and I won't mention the wheels again, breakfast isn't quite settled). - -----Original Message----- From: Jonathan Reiser [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 9:02 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Ebay M3 madness I think the point being made is that auction had hit $8,500 and still not hit the reserve (for you non Ebayers that means you haven't hit the minimal amount of money the seller is looking to get and therefore isn't required to sell you the item). And like you said... the low end of the E30 M3 market is 8k... I think a car missing original parts and having 170k qualifies for the low end range. When you think about it, you purchased your '88 with only 70k miles for $10k... The eBay M3 will probably require at a minimum an engine and trans rebuild 5-6k perhaps? That puts the 8k M3 to 13-14k..... I had actually bid on this car myself but stopped at $8,000.00 when I didn't hit the reserve. Jon > > [car in question] > > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261788018 > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 10:47:21 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Diagnose my E36 problem. Need Help. >Is this a starter problem? Is this a >do it yourself repair? I am hesitant to call the >dealer because of the chip install and the fact that I >haven't even allowed the CPU to adjust to the new >chip. Check to see if the chip is oriented correctly (rotate it 180 degrees). Carlos 91 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:06:08 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Diagnose my E36 problem. Need Help. Assumably, you drove the car after you installed the new chip. If not, try installing the old chip and see if your results are any different. After about 48 hrs or so, your computer will reset itself so the chip shouldn't make much of a difference. It actually sounds more like a battery problem - namely that it's completely flat. The strange gauge gyrations are most likely due to inadequate voltage to the instrument cluster. I'm unsure about the "humming" however. Back to basics - do your headlamps illuminate? If so, are they bright? Also, do you have the original battery in the car? If so, 5 yrs is well past the average life of an OE battery. - --- Racer X <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > <snip> car would not start. I turned the key and it would crank but not turn over. One the third attempt, there was no > cranking nor any clicking, all the gauges turned on > and worked. So this leads me to believe its not a > battery problem. ===== Matthew Yip [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/mgyip/ '87 GTi 16v - x2 '88 M5 '99 F350 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:12:58 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question I've been practicing Heel/Toe for a short bit now, and have a question. I've found that once I got the mechanics of it down (double clutching I had already been doing, so that wasn't much of an issue), I'm having a hard time watching the road and my speedo/tach all at the same time, while at the same time trying to figure out what speed I want to be at when I start the turn-in so I can gauge how much to blip the throttle and what gear to be in. Which leads me to a possible solution (and thus, the question). When you are going into a turn, do you know ahead of time what speed you want to be at at turn-in? This seems logical to me, since you'd then know what gear to be in at that time, and what RPM's as well. Additionally, you can gauge at what time to start your blip based on how fast your speedo needle is diving toward your target speed. Did I get this right? Additionally, it would be helpful to me if any of you racers could give me a rundown of what a typical turn is like. Something like, "I'm coming down the straight at 130, I know turn 1 is a 50 MPH turn, so when I come to the braking point I apply the brake. When I get to about 80, I double clutch from 5'th to 3'rd blipping the throttle to 5500..." Or do you just "brake late, brake hard, shift, turn, go"? - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:13:24 -0800 From: "Stremel, John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Earl's SS brake line purchase Just saw this thread. I'm ready to buy some SS lines for my 95 M3, which are the best ones for street driving? Please let me know brand and the best place to buy them. Thanks. > -----Original Message----- > From: Ken W [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 9:43 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [uuc] Earl's SS brake line purchase > > jun lim <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I am trying to buy a set of Earl's SS brake lines. I > > ordered a set from BMP nine days ago. Was told that I > > > would receive it 5-6 business days. Called today to > > find out that it's back-ordered. They didn't even > > apologize. > > > > I'd like to locate a set with a shrink tube coating. > > Anyone buy a set from a reputable merchant who is not > > going to jerk me around? > > Turner Motorsport sell this. And they most definitely will not jerk > you around! http://www.turnermotorsport.com/ > > > -Ken > '91 M3 > '86 GTI > > -- > [EMAIL PROTECTED] AIM: ScopusFest ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:32:01 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question AAAARRRRRGGGHHHH!!! Not the dreaded Heel & Toe topic. Actually, what you're looking for is proper turn-in speed, eh? Work on that first before you work on heel & toe. Once you get the turn-in under control, the concept of heel & toe will be much easier. In any case, stop looking at your speedo & tach - get to know your car by feel. Each car, even the same model, has a different feel and thus a different turn-in characteristic. That having been said, a specific turn-in speed doesn't work in all applications - for example, turn-in speed at a specific turn is significantly different in my race car than in my truck. However, the principles are the same - enter the turn, brake like mad, downshift, turn and accelerate simultaneously thru the turn. The best place to learn these principles is at a Drivers' School where the penalties are significantly lower when you make mistakes. Spinning on public roads is not only hazardous to one's health but tends to cause major damage to one's driving privileges. - --- Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I'm having a hard time watching the road and my speedo/tach all at the same time, while at the same time trying to figure out what speed I want to be at when I start the turn-in so I can gauge how much to blip the throttle and what gear to be in. > Additionally, it would be helpful to me if any of you racers could > give me a rundown of what a typical turn is like. Something like, > "I'm coming down the straight at 130, I know turn 1 is a 50 MPH > turn, so when I come to the braking point I apply the brake. When I get to about 80, I double clutch from 5'th to 3'rd blipping the throttle to 5500..." ===== Matthew Yip [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.geocities.com/mgyip/ '87 GTi 16v - x2 '88 M5 '99 F350 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 10:34:48 -0600 From: Michael Weishaar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question I think once you get to the point where you are a good racer, it is kind of like a Zen thing. It just happens. There is all that "stuff" going on in the background, but your brain just knows it, and your body just does it. Of course, I am not anywhere near there yet, and probably never will be. (a racer, or at that skill level) I think part of the problem is that your car is too quiet, you can't hear the engine so you are looking at the tach/speedo. You need a buzzy, noisy, screaming engine that you can drive by sound alone. :) Michael 88 M3 WHAT? THE STEREO? THERE IS A STEREO IN THIS THING? Moe Drippins wrote: > > > Or do you just "brake late, brake hard, shift, turn, go"? > > -- > Just Moe > '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS > BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:45:39 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Chelsea's Dates I am a native of the Washington, D.C. area and went to highschool the same time as Chelsea. She was spotted frequently around town at local restaurants and parties. The guy she always rode around with drove, you guessed it, a '95 Dakar m3. Of course there were the secret service cars always following her around, but her primary transport was an m3. Thought you guys might like to know that tidbit of info. James N. 99 m3/2 NCC BMWCCA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:47:45 -0500 From: "VincentMathew Malfa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question Hi Moe, When I first had the mechanics of heel-toe shifting explained to me, I had the same difficulty; between the wheel the shifter, 3 pedals, tach, speedo, and approaching apex, there's alot going on. Two things I remember as being very important: 1)In general, how good are you at matching revs when you downshift? Is it really subconscious for you? I know that the skill I learned finger flipping through the relatively close 3rd through 5th gears of my old Sterling 825SL has never left me; with any mechanically permissable downshift I can match revs spot-on nearly every time (especially love the broad-banders, i.e getting the revs up to 5k for a tight second gear corner) while having a "dicussion" with the SO... You know I've gotta be concentrating on something other than the downshifts if I don't want to be sleeping alone! 2) The secret is highway offramps! Maybe I read it an old post by D.C., but when you're getting off the highway, you know you want deceleration, so the actual numbers don't matter as much. Just work on the heel-toe action of each downshift from 6th through 2nd, and soon enough it'll be second nature in any situation with or without the guages. Good luck, Matt M. - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Moe Drippins Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 11:13 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question I've been practicing Heel/Toe for a short bit now, and have a question. I've found that once I got the mechanics of it down (double clutching I had already been doing, so that wasn't much of an issue), I'm having a hard time watching the road and my speedo/tach all at the same time, while at the same time trying to figure out what speed I want to be at when I start the turn-in so I can gauge how much to blip the throttle and what gear to be in. Which leads me to a possible solution (and thus, the question). When you are going into a turn, do you know ahead of time what speed you want to be at at turn-in? This seems logical to me, since you'd then know what gear to be in at that time, and what RPM's as well. Additionally, you can gauge at what time to start your blip based on how fast your speedo needle is diving toward your target speed. Did I get this right? Additionally, it would be helpful to me if any of you racers could give me a rundown of what a typical turn is like. Something like, "I'm coming down the straight at 130, I know turn 1 is a 50 MPH turn, so when I come to the braking point I apply the brake. When I get to about 80, I double clutch from 5'th to 3'rd blipping the throttle to 5500..." Or do you just "brake late, brake hard, shift, turn, go"? - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:49:02 -0500 From: "VincentMathew Malfa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question Dammit, Matt Yip just said what I was thinking, but in fewer words with faster response time. Dontcha just hate that ;-) - -Matt - -----Original Message----- Work on that first before you work on heel & toe. Once you get the turn-in under control, the concept of heel & toe will be much easier. In any case, stop looking at your speedo & tach - get to know your car by feel. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 10:58:00 -0600 From: Michael Weishaar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <ot> Driving/shifting question Matthew Yip wrote: > However, the principles are the same - enter the > turn, brake like mad, downshift, turn and accelerate simultaneously > thru the turn. Don't you mean brake like mad, downshift, enter the turn, accelerate through and as you exit the turn? > The best place to learn these principles is at a Drivers' School > where the penalties are significantly lower when you make mistakes. This is right on, except (IMO) for heel-toe. I think the street is the best place to learn it, because you aren't trying to figure it out at 80 mph. In that case, the penalty would be greater at the track. Michael 88 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:55:44 -0800 From: "Scott D Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: M528e R-Type Yes, Tom can insure and register the car as a 528e, but what happens if he's in an accident and major parts are damaged? The insurance company will either pay to fix, or else total the car based on the value of a 528e and its parts. They will not replace the M mechanicals, which, if I'm not mistaken, cost just a smidgen more than the average eta stuff. As long as Tom understands and is willing to take that risk, that is fine. But I, for one, would not want to read his complaints when the insurance company refuses to give him $$$M for a car that they thought was a simple eta. The alternative would be to tell the insurance company about the car's more valuable content and pay the appropriate premium. Yes, you can do that. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA #44977 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 19:13:17 EST From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] M528e R-Type Yeah, it registers as a 528e, but didn't the conversion costs outweigh the saving in insurance and the like for at least the next 10 years?! Steve '87 325iS (Getting a 2.7i engine shortly, yes I said 2.7i) >From: Tom Childers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: [uuc] M528e R-Type >Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 11:05:11 -0800 > >Interestingly enough, that is exactly what I am driving, without any badges >or spoilers at all. > >My '88 M5 is actually an '82 528e, that has been stripped to the metal, and >the entire guts, including engine, drivetrain, brakes, ABS, wiring harness, >interior, dash, steering gear, suspension, battery box, etc. etc. of a >wrecked M5 transplanted into it. The proper brackets are welded in place; >the guy did everything down to the window motors. > >So it registers and insures as an '82 528e. The only way to tell is to >either peek into the interior, notice the M5 wheels, or spot the oil cooler >peeking out from the front. I love it. >-tdc ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #289 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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