[uucdigest] Tuesday, February 22 2000 Volume 03 : Number 311 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: <all> CarFax [uuc] Re: Won't go into 1st [uuc] re: UC Shifter: Which one? [uuc] WTB owners manual for 1986 E28 528e Re: [uuc] My first driver's school Re: [uuc] Re: Won't go into 1st [uuc] Re: Fixing holes in interior console? [uuc] Re: Identifying a 325i -w- sport pkg [uuc] Widening wheels? (BBS RS 3-piece) [uuc] BTCC sequential gearboxes [uuc] e46 m3 images [uuc] <E30> won't go into first gear [uuc] <E28> Front end vibration [uuc] RE: [TheUUCGarage] e46 m3 images ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 22 Feb 00 11:47:33 PST From: Tom Newton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <all> CarFax Daniel: While I'm sure you're excited about getting help from a fellow list member, its probably best to keep it low key. The last thing we need is for Carfax to learn that their info is being given away for free here, and the last thing the guy that offered you help needs is for his account to be cancelled by Carfax for mis-use because you revealed his identity online. This is a great community... lets not blow it. Tom '97 M3 ================ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:54:42 -0500 From: "XXXX, Daniel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <All> Carfax WOW!! There are a lot of people on this list with access to Carfax. Thank you to all who responded and especially to XXXX XXXXX. He had the fastest fingers and was nice enough to offer his time and account to anyone on the list that needed it. This is a great community. Sincerely, Daniel L. XXXX BMWCCA #XXXXX '87 325is ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:04:44 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Won't go into 1st I've been watching this thread, waiting for someone to say, "they all do that." Every BMW I've owned, and nearly every manual gearbox car I've driven, is sometimes reluctant to go into first gear. No big deal, you slide into second before shifting into first and then it goes right in. If not, you roll forward a few millimeters and it'll snick right into gear. Although I've noticed that Redline synthetic lubricants reduce this tendency, they don't eliminate it. I don't know why this happens, but it's really never been an issue in my life. In fact, it's enough of a non-issue that I've never tried to figure out what causes it. Maybe the people who posted experience this to a greater degree than I have. Mike Miller ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:08:42 -0500 From: Jeff Berg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: UC Shifter: Which one? It's impossible to provide more than the obvious answer to Milo's question (which is to ask Ben or Rob directly ) when he doesn't provide the necessary information--specifically which BMW you have. Of course that's the best answer anyways, but... For the record, at Rob's suggestion my E-36 318is is equipped with the EVO/Street setup. UUC doesn't recommend the competition version for 4 cylinder cars. Not sure why, Rob had the conversation with my girlfriend when she ordered it as a holiday gift. (Oh no, now I'm "outed" amongst the UUC. *She* not only allows upgrades, she buys them!) However my real advice--certain to be "booed" by some--to 16 year old Milo, who is (seemingly) short on funds, is to not bother. I love my shortshifter/Rob Knob (origninal, not EVO)... You can have it back when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers... But it certainly comes under the heading of luxury item, not necessity. In fact, as I said, mine was a gift from my sweetie. Unless your car is in otherwise top condition you might consider using the funds for something a little more important. Will you need tires soon? How 'bout brakes? Gas may be $2/gal plus soon--will you be able to keep the tank full? Perhaps a day of driving school. I know you can't do a CCA event but there are some open to and geared towards younger drivers. All of these things will do more per dollar to insure you're enjoying your car for a long time to come than the shortshifter will. I'm not preaching to you Milo and I don't want to burst your bubble. If you want a shifter then go for it. I'm fighting hard to NOT become my father and Buddha knows I'm trying to win by dying with the most toys (how unZen of me) 'cept Duane-o is always ahead of me. "Hot Rodding" has been a thing for "youngsters" to do since the beginning of motorized transport. (Before that there was probably a pioneer lad or two experimenting with extra slickery performance axle grease for the covered wagon and hi-octane feed for the team.) And I certainly want Ben and Rob to sell shortshifters to the entire planet. It's just that if the money isn't "there"--as is in genuine "extra" toy money--then this upgrade is hard to justify. (Exception made here for those racing--but in that case it's sort of all "toy" money--or perhaps a compulsive disorder.) Yeah my car shifts nicer now--but I was able to shift it just fine to begin with. YMMV. Y'all can commence fire now... Jeff == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT [EMAIL PROTECTED] ================== Your loss is measured in illusions, your gain is all in bittersweet intelligence, And your winsome smile will lose some of its innocence --Chris Smither, Winsome Smile ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:27:50 -0500 From: "Joseph C. Volpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WTB owners manual for 1986 E28 528e WTB Owners manual for a 1986 US spec 528e. Please e-mail me directly if you have or know of one for sale. Thanks! Joe ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:33:51 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] My first driver's school I wasn't very clear, let me try to explain. The total amount of weight transfer, inside to outside depends on the CG height, track width and cornering force. Suspension design can distribute this weight transfer to the outside front/rear in a proportion that is established by three main factors: spring rate, anti-roll bar stiffness and roll center height. When the inside rear wheel is off the ground, all available weight has transferred at the rear. Any additional weight transfer from cornering faster once the wheel has lifted can only occur at the front. This puts a kink in the front tire load vs. cornering force curve. The typical 50/50 for FWD and 80/20 for RWD is steady state cornering. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > I don't think anyone seeks to design a FWD car to lift the inside > > rear, it is just something that happens. Once the rear lifts, the > > weight transfer distribution becomes 100% front. > > Huh? How does lifting the inside rear sends *all* the weight front? I > think you meant to say that all the _rear_ weight transfers to the > outside wheel. Usually to load it up and decrease rear grip to > hopefully neutralize some of that understeer FWD cars are notorious for. > > > Typical weight transfer distribution for a FWD is 50/50. RWD > > typically has 80/20. > > ????? Are you talking about static weight distribution, or trail > braking, or steady-state cornering? Or powering out of a turn? how > about heavy braking? Any car can have practically any weight > distribution between 30/70% and 70/30% f/r depending on what you're > doing. > > Static weight distributions for typical FWD cars are close to 60/40% > f/r. RWD cars can have static weight distributions anywhere between > 60/40% (F*rd Must*ng), to 50/50 (M3, 951), to 40/60 f/r (911). Get on > the gas, weight transfers back; get on the brakes, it transfers > forward... > > -Luis Marques > '97 328i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 12:33:52 -0800 (PST) From: John Stoj <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Won't go into 1st Mike wrote: I've been watching this thread, waiting for someone to say, "they all do that." OK, I'll say it, "They all do that." Actually, I was sorry I hadn't archived my reply to this same thing several weeks ago. Basically, what Mike said is true. It shouldn't be a big deal - I never thought about it until this list. Maybe we should put it our signatures. - - John '97 M3 - sometimes is difficult to shift into 1st gear, but that's OK. _______________________________________________________ Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite Visit http://freeworld.excite.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 20:58:43 GMT From: "John G.Burns" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Fixing holes in interior console? > My "new" '91 M5 came with an aftermarket phone in the center console > (complete with holes). I know there must be some sort of repair > material for filling the holes and then respraying the gray color. I've not tried this (yet) but have heard of a good system, you can get mobile repair compaines who do this. Make sure the hole is flat with no exterior protrusions, use a sharp craft knife. Fill the hole with silicon sealant or maybe something slightly harder. Use enamel model paints (luckily I have lots!) to blend the colour and surface finish, easy with black. - -- Who needs a life when you've got Unix? :-) Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED], John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland Web : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk - The Ultimate BMW Homepage! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 16:16:25 -0500 From: "Tim Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Identifying a 325i -w- sport pkg Aha, finally I can contribute rather than just asking questions. I looked at one of these a few years ago. They area very desireable cars, especially the 4 doors. This was the only E30 4 door available in the US with essentially the 'is' configuration. Look for front and rear spoilers and side skirts like on a 325iX. The car will have the BBS basket weave style wheels as found on the 'iX' and the E30 'is' cars. Also peek inside, the car will have sport seats and, I believe, the sport steering wheel (3 spoke). The suspension would have the sport tuned suspension as found on an 'is' models. I believe that limited slip was optional. Very cool cars. Gee, it is better to give than receive. Tim T. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:12:42 -0600 From: Robert Ledesma <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Widening wheels? (BBS RS 3-piece) Hi all, Has anyone here ever had a set of wheels widened? What are your thoughts on the subject? I have a set of BBS RS 3-piece wheels 16X7 ET 11 that I bought used for my e28, they're not exactly the perfect offset for the car but I got them to work with 225/50 Dunlops. Looking under the rear I realized that there's enough room for at least an inch and a half more tire/wheel between the strut. So, I started thinking..(I know, bad idea) about widening the inside part of the wheel to make it 8" (with an offset of about 23mm) and use a 245/45 tire. Last year, when I came up with this brilliant idea I called around a few places and came up with 3 options: buy a new inner rim from BBS and bolt it together, have the current rim cut and have a spacer welded in, or try to find someone with the correct wheels I'm looking for and trade or buy them. I ended up talking to a BBS rep and he said that the first two options were unsafe and that the center portion of the wheel is designed for a specific offset and width, if you alter that it puts undue stress on it. I always thought these were about the strongest wheels one could buy, is an inch really going to be risking it. Then looking at the price of rim halves from BBS I decided against that and looked to the cut and weld option, I could only find one place in the country that would do it, price $165/ea. Is this a wise option, or should I just keep looking for the exact wheel I want (RS 16X8 ET22~24) if there is such a thing? Thanks for any suggestions. Robert '88 535is '76 280Z picture of wheels on car currently: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Factory/5356/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 13:56:14 -0800 From: Gustave Stroes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] BTCC sequential gearboxes >Does anyone know how sequential gearboxes work? Do the ones that the >BTCC use have a clutch? Yes, the sequential gearboxes used on Super Touring cars do have a clutch, as the gearbox is still entirely manual, and no electronic control is allowed. In practice the drivers only really use the clutch for the standing start. Upshifts are taken at full throttle without the clutch. A strain gauge on the shift lever detects an upshift and causes the computer to momentarily retard the ignition in order to reduce the load on the geartrain. Downshifts should be taken with the clutch and have seen some drivers heel-toe. But invariably these days I see the drivers just blip the throttle and jam the lever into a lower gear without touching the clutch. This allows them to left foot brake. >Are the BTCC ones similar to the ones that are coming on a lot of cars now? >Larry >97 318i No. Most of the so called "sport-automatics" are just that. Automatic trannies with the possibility of triggering gear shifts via paddles, buttons or pushing/pulling the lever forward/back or sideways. But it is still an automatic tranny with a torque converter (slush box). And if you do not give the right commands to keep the engine within its RPM range then the tranny computer will over-ride you. Ferrari and BMW are the only companies that I know of that offer true sequential transmissions (like on a motorcycle). But the execution is more like an F1 car than a Super Touring car. In other words, the shifts are electronically triggered (via paddles etc.) and then the actual shifting of the transmission is accomplished via electro-hydraulic servos. That is the state of things as I know it. Others may have additional contributions. Gustave ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 16:58:43 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] e46 m3 images sure to be lots of other places in no time. yellow color is pretty unique. http://home.sol.no/~lrst/m3/ original images are at http://www.dinside.no/ds/owa/a.vis?id=7780 Ben ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:10:13 -0500 From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> won't go into first gear Rob sez > Well, I bled the clutch and the problem still persists. At times I just can't > get the damn thing into first gear unless I go to second and then back to > first. Some times I can't even get it into second and have to go to third ! how about the engine mounts and transmission mounts ? are they good ? I seem to remember someone having broken transmission mounts causing a misalignment of transmission in relation to shift lever.. so you are no longer pushing the lever in the correct direction to get into gear If you are not moving (driveshaft not moving) and clutch in, I don't see how the synchros have much to do with anything (ie: don't throw out the gearbox! it's still ok). Synchro's in 1st come into play if you are rolling and go into 1st or shift down from 2nd (ugh) while moving.. but don't do anything if you are stopped. Bad synchros show up mostly in 2nd and 3rd gears because they get the most use while the car is moving and get the most wear. And even when they are getting flaky, shifting slowly generally works just fine. Shifting faster gives a nice *grinding* sound, but usually still works ok. Chris Pawlowicz '89 325i '74 2002 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 14:11:44 -0800 From: Chris Chong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E28> Front end vibration Well folks, when I bought the 528e, I knew I had to have some front end work done. It was all loose and stuff. This is what I did. 1) Got new wheels and tires to replace the old TRX ones. (CDN$1100) Verdict: much better ride. 2) Replaced control arm bushings. (CDN$300) Verdict: tightened things up more, however now I had bad vibration at the steering wheel at highway speeds. 3) Replaced ball joint and center link (steering), and re-alignment. (CDN$450) Verdict: no more vibration traveling at and beyond highway speeds :-) However, now braking above 70km/h (45mph) causes bad vibration in steering wheel. What the heck do I do now? I know the rotors are a little warped, but is there anything else that might be the culprit? As you can see, my CDN$3000 bimmer is quickly sucking my pocket dry. Verdict about owning this car: Cheap to buy and insure, comfortable and fun to drive, bloody expensive to get everything working right. Please tell me that it should likely, ONLY, be the rotors...? I've read all the web literature, but I still need your opinions. Chris "slightly annoyed" '83 528e Barvarian Auto Club of Vancouver Island member #2137 http://members.home.net/iphoto/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:23:09 -0500 From: "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: [TheUUCGarage] e46 m3 images Gawd! It's *sweet*. How much is the E46-M3 ? 343HP. Trying to "chip" this, would be insane. > -----Original Message----- > From: ben keyes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 4:59 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [TheUUCGarage] e46 m3 images > > > From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > sure to be lots of other places in no time. yellow color is > pretty unique. > > http://home.sol.no/~lrst/m3/ > > original images are at > > http://www.dinside.no/ds/owa/a.vis?id=7780 > > > > Ben > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #311 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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