[uucdigest]        Thursday, February 24 2000        Volume 03 : Number 324



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] camber plate recomendations
       [uuc] Re: Shift Knob Location
       [uuc] Squeaking M3.
       [uuc] Problems mounting alarm siren from BMW Kit 
       Re: [uuc] Re: <e30> Identifying a 325i -w- sport pkg
       [uuc] [e36] chains on 16" wheels
       Re: [uuc] Trailer hitch for '97-'99 540 6 speed
       Re: [uuc] Trailer hitch for '97-'99 540 6 speed
       Re: [uuc] New M5 Main. Schedule
       [uuc] <E30> 325iS Check Engine light?
       [uuc] New M3 information
       Re: [uuc] <E30> won't go into first
       Re: [uuc] K-MAC Camber Plates

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 19:32:25 -0800
From: "Stephen J. Albrecht" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] camber plate recomendations

Kevin Kelly wrote:
Looking forward to some more turn in and less understeer. Turn 4 at
Sears
Point was killing me.

I feel your pain Kevin.  My 540 was also stressed out not only in turn 4
but also #7 & #11.  About half way through the third and fourth sessions
on Sat, the left front tire overheated and just gave up. I ended up
turning into #4 about 20 feet before the normal turn in point. Sheesh! 
Suprisingly enough, there is still a lot of tread left.  I guess Dunlop
street tires just aren't designed to hustle a 3800 pound car around a
race track.  Doh! This is the third track session on these tires also,
so I can't complain.

Steve Albrecht
Golden Gate Chapter
'00 540i/6
'95 540iA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 14:55:04 +1100
From: "Thomas, Andrew j" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Shift Knob Location

Gustave ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) writes:

> Let's see. Where is your right hand when you're driving? 

Always on the wheel. Oh, you mean my *shifter* hand?  ;)

Seriously, my point - though not particularly serious at that - was that the
gearshift looks like it will have a long-ish throw. I see your point, mind,
and I suppose it was also a feeder line for someone to ask Rob if he was
going to provide his time-honoured solution. Happy to say it worked well!

Now, one has to find a compromise between short, crisp shift throw, or
having it on a big wand right next to the tiller. Or, indeed, rejigging the
central console and shift mechanism so the whole shebang is mounted higher
up, a la touring car application. I'd trade some of that shift-minimising
time (crucial in racing conditions which basically means not on the public
road, unless you're a nutter) for a meatier shift feel which I can enjoy all
of the time.

Andy T

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 19:46:58 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Squeaking M3.

Milotaks,

Sounds like the broken sheet metal bracket reported by the M3 cognoscenti of the
list.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 23:17:56 -0500
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Problems mounting alarm siren from BMW Kit 

I need some pointers here. I don't have a M6 threaded insert. The drawing 
shows 2 round holes, instead I have a large square opening and a round 
hole further down. The prong won't sit correctly as per drawing in a hole 
that large. Also they want you to purchase a 5/16" x 3/4" sheet metal 
screw, home depot does not have anything that large. Anyone else have a 
2000 323i with this problem?

Thanks 

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 23:20:37 EST
From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <e30> Identifying a 325i -w- sport pkg

Scott "Still GotA Few Body Parts Remaining" Miller wrote:

>I'd just about give my left testicle for a
>Laguna green E30 325i 4 door with sport package.


Scott, for the love of god, stop the testicle references! :)

Steve "I love my testicles" Reed
'87 325iS
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:32:56 -0800 (PST)
From: wji <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] [e36] chains on 16" wheels

Hi all,

I'm looking for a fast recomendation on putting chains on my e36.  The
manual is very specific in saying that chains may not be used with 16"
wheels.  Has anyone found an alternative?  

For those of you who are wondering why I ask, California requires
chains be carried for all cars heading into snow country.  Chains are
required as soon as it *looks* like it might snow.  Okay, it's not that
bad, but I'm close.

Please respond via private email... I'm falling behind on the digest.

Thanks,
Bill Isaacson
__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 18:50:57 -0800
From: Jim Ochi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Trailer hitch for '97-'99 540 6 speed

At 08:48 PM 2/23/00 -0500, mark becker wrote:
>Can a trailer hitch be fitted to a 540 6 speed that will tow a light
>trailer and load such as a jet ski or snowmobile?
>

Da'Lan makes a hitch for a 540i - it's rated for up to 2000 pounds.  If you
can't find it locally, check out <http://www.hitch-web.com> for more details.

Hope this helps,

Jim Ochi
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 23:59:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Trailer hitch for '97-'99 540 6 speed

mark becker writes:

> Can a trailer hitch be fitted to a 540 6 speed that will tow a light
> trailer and load such as a jet ski or snowmobile?

I've heard of just such a hitch.  I don't have the information any
more sadly, but as I recall it's actually OEM, *but*, only available
from Germany.

- -- 
Just Moe
'95 540 6 speed, BL/SS
BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:56:19 -0800
From: John Edward Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] New M5 Main. Schedule

> a Cartridge of BMW approved "fix-a-flat" goop for the BMW approved
> "fix-a-flat" ar compressor that M cars get instead of a spare ;-)  all
> those big fancy mufflers eliminate the place that a spare would go.

Well, sort of.

All those big fancy mufflers eliminate the place where the battery would go.

So the battery now goes where the spare goes in other 5ers.

So the spare goes into BMW's bank account, and you get Fix-a-Flat instead.

John.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 00:17:14 -0500 (EST)
From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> 325iS Check Engine light?

I just finished up a timing belt replacement on my 87 325iS. I also
replaced the plug wires, dist cap, rotor, all the belts, hoses and the
water pump. Anyway, after I was done I started it up (started on the first
turn of the key!) and put all my tools etc away while it idled in the
driveway. After I put everything away I went to back out of the driveway
for a little test drive and the "Check engine" light came on. The owners
manual for my 525 (I didn't get an owners manual w/ the 325) says that
means that something in the emission control system has failed and I
should see my bmw dealer (fat chance of that!). Does anyone have any idea
which components I should check? The funny thing is that it runs better
than it ever has since I've had it (a month, roughly).

Thanks in advance!

Joel

- --
Joel Gallun                                         [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 325iS, 106K
'93 525iT, 111K
CCA national capital chapter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 16:26:08 +1100
From: "Thomas, Andrew j" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] New M3 information

>From Auto Express - a European publication - at www.autoexpress.co.uk. This
might be old news by now by I haven't heard the 343 bhp figure before. And
Auto Express has obviously never heard of the M3 LTW (although it was hardly
a sales success).

The quote of �47k is the equivalent of US$75k. The M5 is �60k in the UK,
$80k in the US. Given the relativity of M5 prices, this pitches the M3 at
just under $63k.

Andy T

23/2/2000 - This is it... the most powerful 3-Series ever to emerge from
BMW's factory, with a Porsche-bashing 343bhp! The production version of the
M3 is finally being unveiled at next week's Geneva Motor Show, and is little
changed from the wild concept that wowed crowds at Frankfurt last September.


Although BMW is offering few details on the new car, Auto Express revealed
last week that eventually two versions would be offered for the first time.
For those who want the ultimate performance and driving experience, there
will be a stripped-out model with less equipment, race seats and a faster
steering rack. Comfort lovers will prefer the standard version, which will
be the best-equipped M3 ever. It will boast a similar specification to its
M5 big brother, with electric leather seats, satellite navigation and even a
TV. Inevitably the increases in performance and equipment will lead to a
price rise; expect to pay around �47,000 when it arrives in autumn.
Initially available only as a Coup�, there's likely to be an M3 Convertible
by 2002 and maybe a saloon, too.

Compared to rivals such as the Mercedes CLK55 AMG, the M3 should have a
per-formance edge. A 155mph restricted top speed is on the cards, while
0-60mph should take around 5.2 seconds. The straight-six engine is a
development of the great 3.2-litre M-Power unit. It measures in at 3.4
litres and delivers an impressive 343bhp, retaining the benchmark
100bhp-per-litre standing. Double VANOS variable valve timing gives superb
low-down torque, while the six-speed close-ratio manual gearbox is carried
over from before.

To ensure owners respect the specialist nature of the powerful motor, the M3
now has LED lights set behind the rev counter which illuminate when the car
is started from cold and gradually turn off as the engine and gearbox oil
temperatures rise. Once you can up the ante, unique suspension settings,
wider front and rear tracks and huge rubber should ensure superb handling.

Of particular note is the firm's decision to include DSC+T stability
control, which can be switched off. But anyone thinking BMW has gone soft
should take note of one particularly exciting development; the rear-drive
chassis features an innovative variable M-Sport differential lock, which
enables the driver to fine-tune on-the-limit handling. Locking the axle to
prevent the inside wheel spinning in corners will ensure entertaining
cornering behaviour...

On this evidence alone, the M3 will retain its lofty standing. And its
practicality ensures that, once again, it won't only be the die-hard
enthusiast knocking at dealers' doors. The M3's widespread appeal means BMW
should be chasing at least 70,000 sales - the impressive figure its
predecessor notched up. Feedback and comments to DNWire

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notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this 
email is strictly prohibited.  When addressed to our clients, any 
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immediately by return email or telephone +61 2 9335 7000 and destroy 
the original message.  Thank you."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 21:26:58 -0800
From: Jim Ochi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> won't go into first

At 07:46 AM 2/23/00 -0600, Alarcon, Rob wrote:
>>>"They all do that"
>
>Well, I must have been the exception up until about a couple of weeks ago.  
>My car never exhibited this difficulty of getting into any gear before, and 
>my 85 325e didn't do it either so I don't buy the fact that they all do it.
>

Hi Folks -

I was sorting out some of the crap that accumulates in my briefcase, and
found the following:

===================================================================
Service Information - Bulletin Number 23 01 99

SUBJECT: Manual Transmission Difficult to Shift - Diagnostic Tips
MODEL: All with Manual Transmission
SITUATION: Transmission may be difficult to shift especially first gear
engagement and/or gear shift linkage is binding.  Note: Field observations
have indicated that a transmission which is difficult to shift (especially
into first gear) is primarily a clutch related problem and only in isolated
cases a failure in the transmission itself.

PROCEDURE:

Verify the customer complaint:

Note: Engage the parking brake and assure that no people or objects are in
the vehicle's path.

- -  Run the engine at idle speed
- -  Press the clutch pedal to the floor
- -  From the neutral stick shift position engage first gear

If first gear is difficult to engage, hold the stick shift at the
resistance point (approximately half of the total stick shift travel) with
constant force.

Then switch the ignition off with the other hand.

DIAGNOSIS 1:
If first gear now engages completely, i.e. the stick shift moves to the end
position without any additional pressure applied, there is a problem in the
clutch system.

Explanation:
Because the clutch does not uncouple completely, a residual torque is
transmitted to the transmission input shaft when the engine is running.
This inhibits the release and meshing of the sliding sleeve, in the
transmission, at the end of the synchronization process.  Turning the
engine off relieves the input shaft of this torque thus simulating a
completely uncoupled clutch.

DIAGNOSIS 2:
If the stick shift remains at the resistance point, there is a problem in
the external gear shift linkage or in the transmission.

CAUSE:

DIAGNOSIS 1:
Possible causes for a clutch problem as per Diagnosis 1 above are:
- -  Input shaft taper splines not lubricated properly/grease dried out.
- -  Clutch disc difficult to move on transmission input shaft.
- -  Clutch disc wobble.
- -  Air in the hydraulic system of clutch mechanism.
- -  Release bearing defective or difficult to move on the guide sleeve.
- -  Clutch disc or pressure plate broken/worn out.

DIAGNOSIS 2:
Possible causes for gear shift linkage binding and/or internal transmission
problems as per Diagnosis 2 above:
- -  External gearshift linkage binding (shift rod joints stiff).
- -  Stick shift bellows boot incorrectly installed (positioned too high or
too low on the stick shift lever).
- -  Sound deadening between the outer gear shift linkage and the body
incorrectly installed and/or distorted.

Possible causes inside of the transmission:
- -  Faulty synchronization.
- -  Internal gear shift linkage binding.
- -  Water in the transmission fluid. (rare)

===================================================================
There's actually some more, but I'm tired and lazy.  The stuff that's left
are the corrective measures - mostly straightforward stuff, like "repair
the linkage"...If you really want it, go to your friendly local dealer, and
ask for Service Information bulletin 23 01 99 dated February 1999...

Hope this helps,

Jim Ochi
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 21:37:01 -0800
From: Jim Ochi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] K-MAC Camber Plates

At 01:35 PM 2/23/00 -0800, kjk wrote:
>Exploring options for camber plates on my 91 M5.
>Experiences or recommendations? Ride quality issues?
>Recommended street and track settings? Also, where is
>the best place to buy them. Looking forward to some
>more turn in and less understeer. Turn 4 at Sears
>Point was killing me.
>

Kevin - 

About the understeer - was it just not turning in, or was it washing out
after the car turned in?  If it wasn't turning in, you might want to try
changing your front toe setting - less toe-in may help.  

Camber plates - there seem to be two types of camber plates.  The K-MACS
are one, where the bearing is set in a lump of urethane.  The other type is
the solid type, where the bearing is attached directly to the plate.  The
second type of plate removes a lot of the compliance, which will roughen
your ride on the street, and will be noisier.  I have a set of Ground
Control plates with a solidly mounted spherical bearing in my E36 M3, and
it's quite a bit noisier and rougher riding (however, that may just be the
springs that I have in it...).  Works OK for me on the street, but I can
imagine that it may be too rough for many people.  K-MACs ride a bit
softer, so are a bit more comfortable.

Street and track settings - if you go to more than around 2-2.5 degrees
negative, you'll probably start wearing out the insides of your tires on
the street.  For the track, probably the best thing to do is use a
pyrometer to see whether you're close to the right settings.  One thing to
remember - as you change your camber, your toe may be changing too.  If my
brain is working correctly, I think that as you increase the negative
camber, the toe will change towards the toe-out side of things.  This may
be totally killer at the autocross, but may be a bit nerve-wracking and
jumpy at the track...

Sources - Jay at Ground Control really did a great job helping me choose
suspension bits for my car.  He knows his stuff, and his products are
top-notch.  Otherwise, try the usual places - Turner, Korman, BMPD, etc.,
etc., etc...

Hope this helps,

Jim Ochi
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #324
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