[uucdigest] Tuesday, February 29 2000 Volume 03 : Number 361 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] <E28> Air filter and other things [uuc] Weight of Air. Was Jim C Intake Noise Re: Re:[uuc] [e36] Jim C air intake wieird noise!! [uuc] more on car sales [uuc] 635 Page Updated - Shark Images For The Poaching! [uuc] E30 Driver's Door Won't Unlock [uuc] Re: Rob's modest little family hatch [uuc] E36 M3 parts FS [uuc] First gear downshifts [uuc] RE: Korman open house Re: [uuc] E21 No Start [uuc] RE: [uucdigest] V3 #353 [uuc] <E30> ICV [uuc] E21 No Start ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 16:59:14 -0800 From: Chris Chong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E28> Air filter and other things Wow! Look at all that mail! I'm gone for only a few days and everything piles up. First things first... 1) Congrats on your M5 Touring Rob! That's a sure looker that'll turn every head at the supermarket :-) 2) Regarding "Jim C air intake wieird noise". In my ex-320is, I replaced the whole air box do-hicky with a K&N filter. The best thing about it, regardless of hp increases or not, was the throaty sound and all the funny noises you get when you hammer the gas. 3) Regarding the ICV. I too, had a funny loopy idle when I purchased the 528e. Last week, I took the ICV off and rinsed out the insides with lots o WD-40. No more loopy idle (well I also replaced the main and fuel relays too). 4) Let's hear it for KNOBS! I got to sit in a '00 740iL during the last club meeting. Holy freakin' lotsa crazy buttons, lights and other pushy thingys! Nevertheless, I love the leg room... 5) Today, I replaced the NiCad battries on the SI board. Cost me CDN$10.50 and 1 hour of my time with a soldering iron. Easy as pie :-D Which brings me to my question of the day: I want to replace the stock air filter with a K&N one. The main reason, is that I want to be able to do servicing myself (like I did on my E21). Whe I was cleaning my ICV, I tried to get to the air filter... I gave up after a while. I do know that I can get a K&N filter to go into the stock air box BUT is there a system for the 528e that does away with the whole air box? The reason I ask is because there is that airflow meter to take into account. Are there pictures on the web I can look at? Chris ============================================ e-mail 2 Chris-> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] e-mail 2 Fiona-> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Xavier: baby number 1 Ivan: baby number 2 BMW page http://members.home.net/iphoto/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:56:35 -0500 From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Weight of Air. Was Jim C Intake Noise Alex Fadeev jokingly asks: Josh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sez: > If the sound you get with the Shark Intake seems weird then > think about it for a minute. Think of the sound that is created > by a massive amount of air (up to 600kg/hr on the 3.2l M3) Wow, 600kg/hr of AIR? How exactly did you go around measuring the weight of oxygen? ;'-) A quick calculation: 155 m/hr @ 15 m/gallon implies approx. 155/15 gallon/hr = 10.33 gallon/hr 10.33 gallon/hr = 10.33 x 3.78 x 1000 cc/hr = 39,060 cc/hr Assuming the density of gasoline to be 0.7 g/cc, 10.33 gallon/hr = 27,342 g/hr Assuming all the fuel is being burned at stoichiometric, which it is not, but this will give us a figure on the higher side, 27,342 x 15 g/hr of air = 410,130 g/hr = 410 kg/hr Well, it IS in the same ballpark! Using the pumping efficiency of the engine and the density of air corrected for pressure, temperature and humidity would probably yield a more accurate result. But, this way is much more fun and I'll just use the mech. engg. safety factor of 4 and design for 1640 kg/hr! While on the subject of massive amounts of fluids being shoved around, think of a 747 taking off in pouring rain. I understand up to 1 Olympic-sized swimming pool a minute passes through the engines. Or that the M5 coolant pump can pump 400L/min, filling a bathtub in about 30 seconds. I imagine that would be at zero head though. Neil Deshpande 1988 325 iS 1989 325 iC ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 14:58:24 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Re:[uuc] [e36] Jim C air intake wieird noise!! Pumping losses occur at part throttle. There is practically no intake restriction at part throttle. Even if there were, reducing the intake restriction means the driver will use less throttle for the same power. The pumping losses will be the same, less in the silencer, more at the throttle. There will be no increase in economy from this source. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Josh wrote: > The intake increases fuel > economy by lowing the pumping losses that are inherent in the stock > "Suction Silencer/Intake Muffler" design. > > Josh MacMurray > Eurosport > (801) 463 4919 (801) 474 2668 Fax > http://www.sharked.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 13:49:22 -0800 From: "Brian Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] more on car sales Don's guidelines for car sales were excellent. A few more: 1) A buyer willing to sleep on it is just as likely to buy as the impulse buyer. Sometimes this person is a better candidate. Get a phone number and make an appointment to call this person back to get their decision. If they are unwilling to commit to a time to discuss their decision, then they are "lookers" and not "buyers" in most cases. You don't have to puch for an offer right there... even if they are interested. 2) Here in SoCal, we get a lot of small businesses looking to make a quick buck off desperate people. They will "low ball" you and offer you cash "right now." Decide what your pain threshold is before offering your car. Know what your lowest number is and research the going values. I like Edmunds over Kelly Blue Book to evaluate market conditions for the car. There is a bar which indicates value -- and this is a good indicator of how desirable the car is. A more desirable car (Honda, for example) will get closer to the market value in Edmunds than a less desirable car (like a Hyundai). 3) Don did an excellent job promoting appearance of the car. I would like to re-emphasize the environment also. Where are you showing the car? A clean, well organized garage with impressive equipment communicates a different message then a home with cars on the grass in the yard and so much stuff in the garage that a basketball won't fit. 4) Be concerned for your safety. A local company -- Carfaire -- uses empty parking lots as a sales lot location on weekends. You pay one price and the car gets secure parking in the lot from Friday PM to Sunday PM. That price allows you to return an unlimited number of times to display your car, an information sheet to post in the car, and little tear-off tabs with your name, numbers and car information. Furthermore, they list the cars on a web page where you can refer people to in other advertising for details and pictures. But... my most significant appreciation for this service is the location for meeting people to show the car. I really hate inviting people to come see the car at my house. 5) Another benefit of the private party car lot (no dealers can advertise there), is knowing roughly a route to send people on to test drive the car. I agree with Don -- I hand the keys over and let people drive the car without joining them. With the car lot, I have maps which show a "course" where they can get on the freeway, they can get some "spirited" driving in and return. I know approximately how long it takes to get through the "course" -- so, I remind the person that if the car is gone much longer than the estimated time, you will call the police. I had to do this once. A buyer took the car and drove it 25 miles (into Los Angeles) to his parent's house without telling me he was going to do it. I called the police and reported it stolen. He had a very interesting time trying to explain to the officers that pulled him over where he was. I don't recall what the citation was, but he did get a ticket (he was lucky not to have been arrested). Besides a fear that the car was stolen, this time that the buyer is in the car is less time that it can be advertised and shown. I ask for "good faith" money if they are going to take the car for an extended period -- this "good faith" money is essentially deposit on the car. 6) Have a recent mechanic's report handy. Be honest and forthright in the car's condition. If you know it needs something that the buyer will discover by taking it to a mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection, then share this information... after the ask for it. I never volunteer this information, but I answer questions honestly. 7) Have a plan in place for how you will handle the buyer's mechanic inspection. Will you take it there? will you allow them to take it there? Do you have them buy it and then allow them 2-3 days to return the car? Just know how you want to handle this. Enjoy the process. If you are not having fun, then find a friend willing to do this for you. I did it 6 times last year alone for friends that wanted to sell their cars. Cheers, Brian Foster ___________________________________________________________________ To get your own FREE ZDNet Onebox - FREE voicemail, email, and fax, all in one place - sign up today at http://www.zdnetonebox.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 20:32:06 -0500 From: Mark Borchik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 635 Page Updated - Shark Images For The Poaching! Gruppe... My "Shark-Infested Driveway" page has just been updated, as I try to keep abreast of the renovation underway on the "Texas Twister". I couldn't help myself... I've added a variety of animated "shark" images to the page. Feel free to poach any of them! Mark Borchik http://www.gruppeb.com/635 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 20:40:03 -0500 From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 Driver's Door Won't Unlock Jeff sez > I locked my '88 325is yesterday and when I returned I unlocked the trunk and > noticed the driver's door did not unlock. I tried the key in the drivers > door and it would not turn in the anti-clockwise direction. Finally climbed > in the passenger door and tried to pull up the interior lock. Jammed too. > > How do I get my door open? > you have a weird problem.. either a) the drivers door was double locked (key was turned 90 degrees and removed), in which case it would not unlock using the trunk, and perhaps the lock cylinder has died and jammed in that position b) the drivers door was *not* double locked (key moved slightly to right to lock, sprung back to vertical position and removed) in which case the interior knob should go up and down and lock/unlock the door *but* central locking on E30 (and E28) is a problem area, and many weird things can happen screwing you up big time (related to corrosion in the A pillar connector, plus corrosion in the lock computer which lives behind the kick panel speaker) so: move the drivers seat all the way back, remove the screws from the armrest (x3, one is behind the power mirror switch which pulls out), slide the interior door latch surround to one side and it pops out as well, remove the locking knob (unscrew), then pry the bottom/sides of the panel away from the door (plastic snaps) and lift the whole panel up to remove once the panel is off, you can unlock the door from the inside (disconnect motor if it is jammed, unjam the lock cylinder if it is the problem etc) chris pawlowicz '89 325i '74 2002 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 12:51:23 +1100 From: "Thomas, Andrew j" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Rob's modest little family hatch Rob ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) writes: >> and had a JC chip... >Coming soon. Would this work with a European-market car? Or at least, would there be a benefit? I don't remember any chip manufacturer being able to improve on the 340 bhp BMW squeezed out of it. Mind, they didn't have Jim Conforti at the controls of course. Also I noticed the American bumpers are already attached, with extra reflectors/markers. If you had to change them yourself, make sure you hang on to the originals. Once the allure of an E39 M5 becomes too great, you could probably flog it back and make a tidy profit - as all the other 900-odd M5 tourings in Europe will been thrashed senseless, tastelessly modified or driven into trees. Trivia: almost every M5 3.8 sold in the UK came was ordered with full options - a litany of paraphernalia that in some cases could easily double the price of the car. Problem is, much of it was lost on the owners, not least of all the individual who once offered his fully-loaded M5 in the paper including the unique option of "Nuremberg suspension". Terrific body control, spot-on damping, and an extra setting for war criminals (sorry). Andy T "This email is intended only for the use of the individual or entity named above and may contain information that is confidential and privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email is strictly prohibited. When addressed to our clients, any opinions or advice contained in this email are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately by return email or telephone +61 2 9335 7000 and destroy the original message. Thank you." ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 21:24:05 -0500 From: "Dan Martinez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 M3 parts FS > Cleaning out the garage, Misc parts FS, all prices nego/bo . . .buyer > responsible for shipping, all parts are "as is," but they are all in good > condition (bottom dwellers need not respond), I'm located in Fla. > > E36 3.0 liter block (bare) (great upgrade for 325, or to add 3.2 crank to > early E36 M3) $1300 > E36 3.0 liter crank . . ..$500 > E36 M3 head (bare) (with the LARGE runners) (was going to be machined for > over-sized valves) . . ..$1250 > 4 Complete Custom alloy wheels (17 lbs ea) , 17x9 front, 17x9.5 rear, will > fit all E36 chassis . . . . .$700 ($1800 new) > 1 set M3 cams, great 325 upgrade, Milos Klacko's 325 dynoed at 230 hp with > this drop-in upgrade . . . $500 > 1 set Hockenheim R wheels 17x8 with Yok 235/40/17 Ao32's (two tires almost > new, 2 need replacing) . . . .$600 > 1 all day instruction session with Randy Pobst . . . priceless > > serious inquiries only IoI ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 21:28:39 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Kathy Lyle) Subject: [uuc] First gear downshifts Kevin Kelly writes: > I have been practicing first gear downshifts and am ready to keep > the M5 above 4000 rpm. Wow, when I downshifted from first I ended up with a bad result! What am I doing wrong? ;-) Kathy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 18:32:16 -0800 (PST) From: Sam Schultz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Korman open house I have been to the open house for two years in a row and I'm attending again this year. There is only one event that I would put ahead of it and that the Carr Industries, in open house (I work there). The food its self is worth the $7.00. Let alone the vender s and the huge amount of BMWs and BMW people. This does not even cover the tech sessions. Sam Schultz Greensboro NC area coordinator BMW(space)cca www.carrindustries.net __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 21:25:14 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E21 No Start Disconnect the supply fuel line at the fuel distributor and see of gas comes out while cranking. Point it into a pail. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > If the group could cast aside their 320 prejudices for just a moment, a > friend of mine as an 83 automatic that won't start. It appears to have spark > at the coil, so I have proceeded under the assumption that the problem is > fuel related. I see no damage to any of the fuel lines, but I can't find the > filter. (The two canisters near the tank look kinda like the ones on Tad > Laird's E30, but since I know everything on his car is way overengineered, > I'm certain that can't be it on an E21). Any suggestions about how to > proceed? > > Thanks much, > Matt Malfa <----- real glad I don't own an E21 > 94 325is <---------owner has corresponding Bentley Manual <g> > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 18:52:20 -0800 From: "Boyd, David (Neighbour Boy)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: [uucdigest] V3 #353 >Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 22:09:31 EST >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] ICV > >regarding the icv. what were your symptoms to know it was going bad?? >i have a stumbly idle and have swapped the o2 sensor to no avail, so i >suspect the ICV may be the culprit. >tommy Hi Tommy, My symptom wasn't the usual symptom. The usual, is the idle will oscillate between 900 and 1500 RPM or so every couple of seconds. My idle would stay steady at 1000 when cold, and slowly rise to about 1500 when the car was finally warmed up. Initially I suspected the coolant temp switch, or vacuum leak. But, the ICU was receiving all the correct signals at the correct time, and there were no vacuum leaks to be found. I took a chance that the ICV on my wife's 318i wasn't too much different and "borrowed" it for a couple of minutes. With her ICV installed, my car idle at a steady 750 like it should. The Bentley has an excellent section for troubleshooting idle problems that I used to help me narrow it down. Take care. - --David Boyd '84 325e ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 18:53:47 -0800 From: "Boyd, David (Neighbour Boy)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> ICV Doh, the subject for the previous post should be <e30> ICV. --Sorry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 21:57:10 -0500 From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E21 No Start Matt sez > friend of mine as an 83 automatic that won't start. It appears to have spark > at the coil, so I have proceeded under the assumption that the problem is > fuel related. I see no damage to any of the fuel lines, but I can't find the > filter. are (both) fuel pumps working ? turn the key to 'on' (not to start) and listen.. the fuel pumps should start buzzing. They run for a few seconds and then quit.. by then the engine should be turning over and another relay keeps power going to the pumps. (that way if you crash and the engine dies, the pumps stop working) one pump is inside the fuel tank (under back seat) - it transfers fuel to the main pump mounted just above the right rear driveshaft. If the xfer pump is dead car will still run. If main pump is dead, so is the car. Mounted next to the main pump is another gizmo which smooths out the pressure pulses from the pump. If the pump is dead you will probably also need the two metal pipes attached to either end because they are probably rusty and will fall apart if touched. chris pawlowicz '89 325i '74 2002 ex '81 320i - almost as fast as one of them luxo-barges, uh, 7ers :) ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #361 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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