[uucdigest]          Wednesday, March 1 2000          Volume 03 : Number 364



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] RE: Insurance rates  .
       [uuc] white light clusters, cd + alarm install
       Re: [uuc] Nuremberg suspension
       [uuc] <E28> Lighting
       [uuc] badge engineering (was Re: Rob's new toy)
       Re: [uuc] white light clusters, cd + alarm install
       [uuc] E46 M3
       [uuc] E36 Cooling weirdness
       [uuc] <E36> Track tires and rolling fenders
       RE: [uuc] white light clusters, cd + alarm install
       [uuc] Greg's wreck 
       [uuc] <All>  Drivers School Insurance Coverage
       [uuc] RE: E30 Driver's Door Won't Unlock
       [uuc] <WOB> Daimler Chrysler Communications Memorandum
       Re: [uuc] Greg's wreck
       [uuc] FS: Bentley Service Manual for 92- on e36
       [uuc] RE: DYNO Results?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 10:08:17 -0500
From: neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Insurance rates  .

>Lastly, glass claims in most states are a NO FAULT claim. That means
that
>your insurance rates CANNOT go up.

Methinks that someone misunderstands no-fault (heck, mebbe I do!)...
It means that YOUR ins pays for YOUR car, regardless of fault. It
doesn't mean that your rates will never go up, and it doesn't mean that
you'll never get dropped (that's guaranteed renewal).
Most glass-only claims are covered under comprehensive VS collision, and
are thusly generally not "chargable". This part is true. However, they
are not labelled no-fault, as that appplies only in liability cases
(fault = liability).
There's one other thing...Your rates are determined by underwriters and
actuaries who use our claim codes as part of their
desicion-making process, not by claims folk. It _is_ possible for you to
get dropped, or surcharged, in a no-fault state (like, if your claim
history is exessive, however it's defined).
Disclaimer:
YMMV (there are companies that will automatically surcharge or drop you
after whatever claim meets the appropriate criteria, but I don't work
for one of them (whew!), so I don't know their thought(less) processes)
- --
Do Svedanya!
Neil Hitze
http://www.hitze.com/~neil

"..the underdog will eventually survive...." --Colin James Hay
   "This is not a step."  --Heywood Banks

Star Trek stuff for sale:
http://www.hitze.com/~neil/startrek/startrekforsale.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:07:24 -0500 
From: "Binder, Larry - Paoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] white light clusters, cd + alarm install

Hi everyone,
Does anyone know where I can purchase clear lights to replace my rear light
clusters.  I've seen the ones that have red on bottom and all white on top
but I want all of them to be white. (Yes, I plan on putting in the red bulbs
in for the brake lights)=)

Also, after a few suggestions from the list I purchased my CD changer and
alarm from Pacific BMW in CA.  They did have the best deal.  I don't
remember exactly how much the total was but i think it was around $750 for
both.  The cd install took me about 10 minutes and most of that time was
spent picking the cds to put in it =).  The alarm ended up taking about 2
1/2 hours.  I accidentally put the glove box back in before I ran the led
wire to the center console.  And when I put the led connector on backwards
that didn't help either.  All in all I'm pretty happy with the changer and
the alarm performance.  I remember hearing about someone attaching a shock
sensor to their factory alarm.  If anyone has any info on this subject I'd
really appreciate it.
TIA

Larry
97 318i

Mech Designer/Draftsman
Synthes Spine

*************************************************************************
The opinions and statements expressed above are mine, and do not reflect
that of my employer.
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 07:26:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Nuremberg suspension

Man that subject title just begs another twist, The "Turdburg
suspension".  On a good day it could mean an F1 style set up, on a bad
day a crooked badge. =)

Carlos
91 M3 two badges
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 11:17:53 -0500
From: Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Lighting

If I fit three relays, wired such that the low beams each have one relay and
all four high beams are fed by one relay, will the fault indicator for the low
beams light up? 

I'm not planning on running such a great wattage on low beam that I really
_need_ one relay per filament, but I would like to prevent having the fault
indicator trip every time I turn the lights on.

Wait, let me guess, it depends on the type of relay...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 09:28:28 -0700 
From: Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] badge engineering (was Re: Rob's new toy)

Rob Levinson wrote:
> I want "538ti"

To be accurate and Bubba-compatible, 
you'd have to append "T" for Touring.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 11:06:10 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] white light clusters, cd + alarm install

Red bulbs?  I've never seen those.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Hi everyone,
> Does anyone know where I can purchase clear lights to replace my rear
light
> clusters.  I've seen the ones that have red on bottom and all white on top
> but I want all of them to be white. (Yes, I plan on putting in the red
bulbs
> in for the brake lights)=)
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 12:04:07 -0500
From: "James Sheridan-Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E46 M3

OK, I'm drooling, but what I REALLY want now is the complete Nordschleife
video, not just the 6 segments, and I want it in high res.  <g>

- --
James Sheridan-Peters
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'98 323is National Capital Chapter
'85 SCCA Spec RX-7 #00

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:15:47 -0700 
From: "vanderHeide, Alain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E36 Cooling weirdness

OK, now what do I do?

Last Sunday, I replaced the infamous plastic impeller water pump on my '95
M3 with a new metal impeller one (purchased from Bavarian Autosport).  I
also figured I'd replace the thermostat, since I was already in there and
the Bentley manual claimed the housing had to be removed to access the water
pump - one of several lies I found during this job - but I digress.

I'm puzzled about some things.  The thermostat came with a gasket for the
housing (and the Bentley manual shows one), but when I removed the housing
there was no gasket there, just this funny trapezoidal rubber seal in the
trapezoidal hole.  The thermostat housing, BTW, is plastic, and all the
pictures in Bentley show a metal one (Bentley also claims that the M3
housing has a bleed screw, but mine sure don't - more digression, sorry).
So, I re-used the aforementioned funny little seal and did not install the
gasket.

Last night, I noticed some coolant seepage around the M6 bolt on top of the
housing, so I tightened it just a bit more and it seems to have stopped.  I
think I'm now seeing some seepage at the right hand (as one faces the car -
driver's side for we USAans) end for the housing.

I think I'm also seeing some seepage from the pump, but I'm not sure where.
The leaflet that came with the pump said there'd be some seepage from the
air hole.  How long should that go on for and how much should come out?
There was an O-ring already installed on the pump, and that seems to be the
only seal.  It also appears that the pump can only go on one way.

Anyone familiar with E36 M3 cooling systems?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 09:29:51 -0800
From: Dietrich Schultz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E36> Track tires and rolling fenders

Too many track schools has left me with tire envy. I'm feeling the itch for 
bigger & badder track tires on my 95 325is. It's currently wearing 
225/50-16's, with Konis & H&R springs. My informal survey of cars at my 
last track school seemed to show 235/40-17 as the size of choice for E36 
325's (at least in stock config). However, all the cars with those tires 
had rolled fenders.

Anyone have experience in this area or can point me to a site? Are 
235/40-17's the practical limit for the 325? Is rolling the lip on the rear 
fenders enough or do you need to flare the whole fender a bit? Is it 
necessary to scrape the sound-deadening/rust-proofing gunk out of the 
fender lip before rolling or is that best left in place? How likely is it 
that the paint will crack in the process? (I'm probably going to have a 
body shop do this work, but I'd like to know more about it first.)

Thanks
Dietrich Schultz
'95 325is

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 12:05:06 -0500 
From: "Binder, Larry - Paoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] white light clusters, cd + alarm install

Check out any import (Japanese) car mag.  There on just about every other
page in most of them.

Larry
97 318i

Mech Designer/Draftsman
Synthes Spine

*************************************************************************
The opinions and statements expressed above are mine, and do not reflect
that of my employer.
*************************************************************************

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Derian [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 11:06 AM
> To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject:      Re: [uuc] white light clusters, cd + alarm install
> 
> Red bulbs?  I've never seen those.
> 
> Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> 
> > Hi everyone,
> > Does anyone know where I can purchase clear lights to replace my rear
> light
> > clusters.  I've seen the ones that have red on bottom and all white on
> top
> > but I want all of them to be white. (Yes, I plan on putting in the red
> bulbs
> > in for the brake lights)=)
> >
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 11:44:18 -0600 
From: "Mendez, Andrew D." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Greg's wreck 

Greg, sorry about your wreck, but, with all due respect, this:

[snip]
2) If you are going to drive fast, do it at night.  It is reasons like this
that I limit my "recreational" style driving to a late night, when the
chances of getting a passerby involved are virtually non existent.  On a
road like Kings Mountain, visibility at night isn't a factor, given that
your headlights light up the maximum area you can see around the corners
anyhow.  Also, what little oncoming traffic there is announces itself long
before it gets near you with their headlights....

is stupid advice. On most cars (e.g., E36s) the headlights are insufficient
to illuminate large holes, puddles, tires in middle of road, etc. until you
are top of them if you're going more than 45 or so. Check out the Car &
Driver article a few years back -- they concluded with low beams there is no
time to brake by the time even a huge object (tire) is illuminated by the
headlights.  Visibility is definitely a factor because it doesn't matter if
you couldn't see around the corner even if it was daylight; you may not make
it to the turn in point if you don't see an obstacle at the beginning of the
corner. Not to mention pedestrians, bikers, joggers, etc. which are often
impossible to see at night, and who seem to pop out where you least expect
them (like the poor bastard I scared the daylights out of when I missed him
by 6 inches at 90mph on a freeway on ramp at 2AM -- what the hell was he
doing there?). 

Andy '95 M3 driven fast only during daylight in good conditions

- ------------------------------
This communication is from a law firm and may be privileged and
confidential. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the
sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of this communication.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 11:53:11 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Bob Fluharty)
Subject: [uuc] <All>  Drivers School Insurance Coverage

     I'm signing up for my first driving school (Putnam Park, April 15-16) 
     and thought I'd better check with my insurance agent (State Farm) to 
     confirm coverage.
     
     The woman was incredulous. "You want to do WHAT? On a RACETRACK? No, 
     that wouldn't be covered." I stressed the instructional, 
     non-competitive nature of the event. I pointed out that I could find 
     nothing in the policy excluding such events, and I mentioned that I 
     had heard (from this digest) that State Farm does in fact cover them. 
     She finally agreed to check with her superiors at the company and get 
     back to me.
     
     In case of a negative response, I need ammunition. Many of you have 
     surely fought this battle. What can I bring to the table to turn them 
     around?
     
     Isn't there a State Farm guy on the list? Can you offer me anything?
     
     Help appreciated.
     
     Bob
     '87 325is
     Cincinnati

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 13:02:44 -0500 
From: "Lin, Gary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: E30 Driver's Door Won't Unlock

A note in addition to Chris P's usually great lock faq, if the driver's door
latches onto the first click only and you push it closed, make sure it fully
double clicks.  If it pushes in to appear to be flush but doesn't second
click, you cannot turn the key, or pull up the button.  You can also pull
the door back out a click first.  I scared myself into finding this out.

Gary Lin   National Capital Ch.   '88 325is street   '85 325eis track

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 13:05:00 -0500
From: "Heckendorf, David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <WOB> Daimler Chrysler Communications Memorandum

Directors at Daimler Benz and Chrysler have announced an agreement to adopt
English as the preferred language for communications, rather than German,
which was the other obvious possibility.

As part of the negotiations, Directors at Chrysler conceded that English
spelling has some room for improvement and has accepted a 5 year phase in
plan.  In the first year, "s" will be used instead of the soft "c".

Also the hard "c" will be replased with "k".  Not only will this klear up
konfusion, but komputers kan have 1 less letter.  There will be grown
kompany enthusiasm in the sekond year when the troublesome "ph" will be
replased by "f".  This will make words like "fotograf" 20 persent shorter.

In the third year, Daimler-Khrysler akseptanse of the new spelling kan be
expekted to reach the stage where more komplikated shanges are possible.

Daimler-Khrysler will enkourage the removal of double letters, which have
always ben a deterent to akurate speling.  Also, al wil agre that the
horible mes of silent "e"'s in the languag is disgrasful, and they would go.

By the forth year, peopl wil be reseptiv to steps such as replasing "th"
with "z" and "w" by "v".

During ze fifz year, ze unesesary "o" kan be droped from vords kontaining
"ou", and similiar shanges vud of kors be aplid to al ozer kombinations of
leters.

After zis fifz yer, ve vil hav a reli sensibl riten styl.  Zer vil be no mor
trubls or difikultis and employes vil find it ezi to komunikat viz ech ozer.

Ov korse al supliers vil be expekted to svitsh to zis for all busines
kominikation via Daimler-Khrysler.

Ze drem vil finali kum tru.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 13:06:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Joe Walsh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Greg's wreck

> From: "Mendez, Andrew D." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> is stupid advice. On most cars (e.g., E36s) the headlights are insufficient
> to illuminate large holes, puddles, tires in middle of road, etc. until you
> are top of them if you're going more than 45 or so. 

I agree, or a deer, which was my case last fall.

http://www.nauticom.net/www/walshjl/images/crash.htm

Joe
'89 535i (done-in by incorrectly executed bambi avoidance technique)
'92 325is
CCA166726

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 13:21:02 EST
From: "jason young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] FS: Bentley Service Manual for 92- on e36

I bought it about 2 months ago and just finished selling the car.
$30 OBO
great shape

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 13:22:47 -0500 
From: "Lin, Gary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: DYNO Results?

Are your three runs counter to the others' runs?  Just a guess, but is
hotter air on later runs getting more heat into the intake (first run cold
engine, then warms up so parts fit nice and snug making more torque later)?
Did you run hood closed w/ a fan in front?  Roller drive dyno right?  Don't
they have a bit of acceleration overrun, the rollers still accelerating a
bit on letoff, pushing the rpm up?  A stationary car, accelerating lower?
mass wheels/rollers is not the same as a stationary road, accelerating
car/wheels, right physics experts?  I could be wrong here.  Also tachs are
noted for being inaccurate.

Gary Lin   National Capital Ch.   '88 325is street   '85 325eis track

> My car is a '95 M3 with an Active Autowerke chip installed 03/97 and a K&N
> cone filter with the ECIS heatshield.
> My first run shows "Max" Power @ 222.5 and "Max" Torque @ 207.1
> The second run was "Max" Power @ 217.8 and "Max" Torque @ 209.3
> The third run was "Max" Power @ 217.3 and "Max" Torque @ 210.1
> 
> One other weird thing that occured was my tach seems to be off by
> 500rpm's. According to my DYNO's, I let off the gas at 6500 but yet I was
> taking the tach to 7000 inside my vehicle. The DYNO was calibrated to my
> tach @ idle speed.

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #364
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