[uucdigest]           Friday, March 3 2000           Volume 03 : Number 380



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Floorjacks
       [uuc] <E28> Leaky Tranny
       [uuc] RE: Need a floor jack
       [uuc] Update:  All is not lost (was broken belt)
       [uuc] Re: Choose you CHIPS wisely
       [uuc] Racing Dynamics
       [uuc] re gloves
       [uuc] RE: <all> How do I store my car?
       Re: [uuc] <E46 M3> Is the new M3 a porker?
       [uuc] BMW/Toyota
       [uuc] Bonding with your Bimmer
       [uuc] RE: Racing Dynamics
       [uuc] Re: who wants to be a resale expert?
       [uuc] RE: Need a floor jack
       [uuc] Floor Jacks
       Re: [uuc] The perfect car / Toyota/BMW/etc.

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Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:20:31 -0500
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Floorjacks

If I were buying a new floor jack today (us real car loonies have lifts and
the floor jacks rust quietly away in the garage corner) , I'd look real hard
at the one from GRIOTS GARAGE.  This one looks well made, and is designed to
lift lowered cars, unlike your garden variety shop jack. That's a major plus
in BMW-land.

It's not cheap, but the good stuff usually isn't.  There's no photo on their
web site of it, but you can get a catalog from Griot's by going to
www.griotsgarage.com.

- - Duane
The Seven Sled

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 08:04:08 -0800
From: Carol & Steve Willoughby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Leaky Tranny

Bobby, these trans will leak from both the shift selector shaft, and the
output shaft seal also. If one is leaking, the other is probably
leaking, too, so replace 'em both at the same time. This is the time to
install that short shifter you always wanted! BEFORE YOU START TAKIN'
STUFF APART, clean the entire engine, front, and exhaust side, and the
trans. to be sure you find the leak(s).
BEFORE you jump into the rear seals, etc. make sure to check out the
front end of your engine. Eta engines are notorious for leaking engine
oil from the head gasket, and it WILL run down the side of the engine
and along the flange where the oil pan mounts. As you're racin' those
P-cars,<g> it will blow off of the rear of the engine, onto the trans,
and looks like a trans leak. Also, check your camshaft oil seal - if it
leaks, and it probably does, you get the same symptoms as a head gasket
oil leak. You're gonna find more than one leak on these engine/trans
setups, but the parts are all cheap. If you're gonna do the work, save
the head gasket for last. Before replacing the gasket, get a new set of
Torx headbolts, follow the Bentley manual sequence, and replace all of
those. You CAN replace 'em, one at a time, in the correct sequence.Make
sure to torque them correctly. It may reduce that leak.
If you're gonna replace the camshaft oil seal, replace the timing belt,
too.
Good luck!
Steve
'87 528e

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:39:07 -0800
From: "Jerry Chyo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Need a floor jack

Tim,

I've had a POS Harbour Freight 2 ton jack for almost 6 years now.  Never
gave me a problem and has always held it's "pump" (easy fellas).  I've used
it a ton of times (I've been building and tearing apart a tii most of those
years) and only paid $30 for it.  I keep telling myself I'll buy a nice one
when this one fails.  I think it heard me and isn't ready to retire.

FWIW

Jerry Chyo
'88 M5
'72 tii

Timothy Taylor wrote (aren't you the Tool Guy?):

> OK, the 15 year old crappy K-mart jack that my dad gave me when they moved
> to Florida doesn't work anymore. Hell, I haven't tried it since he gave it
> to me more than a year ago. It may have never worked.
>
> I remember everyone going ga-ga over the fancy jacks a few months
> ago, but I
> can't (won't?)  swing $400 for a jack. What are my options? Buy
> the best one
> Sears has and hope it lasts a few years? Or am I just pissing money away?
> Anyone in the DC area have a decent jack they want to sell?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:46:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Alix Sebesta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Update:  All is not lost (was broken belt)

Just got off the phone with the shop--I must say I'm relieved.

The water pump is still perfectly functional.  This was replaced by my
brother about 50K miles ago.  I don't know how long these typically last,
but I'm not going to get a new one until next week.  And if someone tells
me not to get a new one, I will NOT listen.

The cylinder head is fine, no damage of any sort.  Maybe there is a god?

At any rate, all it will take to get the car functional again is 3 new
belts. Will be ready at 3 today.  About $55 for labor, $15 for the
belts, and $30 for towing.  Those numbers are a lot more palatable than
say, $750 for a new cylinder head...  

However...

Mechanic also says the cam shaft seal is leaking onto the timing belt.

I was planning on changing the timing belt next week anyhow, so if it can
last one more week, that's good.  If not, well, I was looking for a new
car anyhow.

Says something in the front suspension is shot.  I can't remembder what 
he said.  Wasn't the tie rod end tho.
Hmmm.

And my transmission is leaking.  At least that was no suprise.

At least spring break is in a week, so I guess I'll be spending 10 days of
quality time with my car.  Maybe that'll carry it over to the summer.
At which point it'll decide it wants a new transmission, suspension,
interior, etc etc etc. 

Thanks again to everyone that helped.  Time to move on to crisis #8 for
the week.  

Alix

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:50:45 -0500
From: "Seth Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Choose you CHIPS wisely

For those of you who would like to see if Duane's assessment of Autothority
chips is true, I have one that I will send to whoever wants to compare chips
on a dyno.  This one came with my LTW and it was the first thing that I took
out.  Replaced it with a Jim C. Euro Intake.  Now that is the ticket if you
have a 95 M3.  But anyway, you guys let me know if you would be interested
in trying the chip out and I will gladly mail it to you.

Seth Thomas
www.m3power.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 11:54:17 -0500
From: "Robert Steele" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Racing Dynamics

<Sorry if this is a  duplicate, but I sent it 12 hours ago and it never showed in a 
Digest>

I know this is an old thread, but is there any late news -- and, until there are 
searchable archives, I need a little help
A very reputable tuner is selling a suspension package with Billstein shocks,
H&R springs and, I believe, Racing Dynamics swaybars.  The sways carry a guarantee 
from Electrodyne, the US subsidiary.  The package says Racing Dynamics and is the same 
as the Italian logo.
Are these sways any good or should I look elsewhere, such as the new UUC sways?  I am 
ready to install.... the first NJ chapter autox is 4 weeks away!!
Thanks all.
Rob
'97 328i
UUC BL/SS, Billstein Sport shocks, H&R springs, and looking for
good sways.......

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 10:01:05 -0700
From: Bruce McReynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] re gloves

Driver's Gloves

Upside:  Keep hands warm at 8A Driver's meetings
                   Look way cool
                   Absorb some sweat
           Can be used to help get brisket out of smoker  (For same purpose, 
welder's gloves are cheaper.)
                   Gauntlets useful for wiping nose/mouth

Downside:  Difficult to pick nose
                        Have to be removed to pry plastic caps off caliper 
bolts
                        Harder to clean than hands
                        Easier to lose than hands
                        Cost more than hands

Bruce McReynolds
Santa Fe - the City Different - NM
'88 M3 - evolving
'89 635CSi
BMWCCA 127260

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 09:06:13 -0800
From: "Jerry Chyo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: <all> How do I store my car?

Well.  Since you insist.  I'll charge you $75/mo to store it at my house.

Geez.  Ya try to do a guy a favor, and all you get are gripes. :^)

Jerry Chyo
'88 M5
'72 tii

Jim the ungrateful wrote:
 
> You guys are great.  No really, you are much too kind.  You would be
> willing to "store" my car at your homes while I'm out of the country,
> and no one has even asked me to pay them a storage fee.  Talk about
> generosity.
> 
> I do appreciate the offers, (including the direct replies) but I
> wouldn't want to impose so I think I will keep the car at a storage
> unit.  An "undisclosed" storage unit to protect the innocent.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 12:12:57 -0500
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E46 M3> Is the new M3 a porker?

"George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" wrote:

> "After the initial sales wave, BMW intends to offer a stripped-down
>  version of the M3 that..."

no one said that this model would ever make it across the ocean to us.

you think that BMW would rather sell loaded 4 door sedans or stripped-out
LTW's here ??

how about loaded wagons vs. stripped-out LTW's ??

after the lack of success with the E36 LTW, I'll bet for the higer margin,
easy sales of a loaded model every time.




Ben Keyes
'99 M coupe - "loaded" with all 2 options.
'88 M5 - no options left (CD changer died)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 12:12:59 -0500
From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] BMW/Toyota

While on the subject, a friend of mine who has driven his P-car 944 for 15 years and 
keeps it in fair cosmetic, but awesome mechanical condition on a graduate student 
budget, makes a huge distinction between durability and reliability.

BMWs are durable, but Toyotas are reliable.

I've had pretty much every small system - seat adjustment, power windows, IP, heater 
control, vents, lights, door seals, locks, etc. - give way on my iS, but the engine 
still registers 5-10% on leakdown after 188,000 miles, 50k of which went on the car in 
the last two years and nothing major has rusted out yet and the paint is only now 
beginning to show the first signs of clear coat peel.

A couple of old Toyota pickups (12-15 years) at work are completely rusted out with 
big holes in them, but they never start or idle badly.  My car does from time to time.

Neil Deshpande
1988 325 iS - 188k miles
1989 325 iC - 178k miles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 11:17:43 -0600
From: "Christopher J. Kolaitis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Bonding with your Bimmer

Hey Rob,

I think you guys have it not exactly right.

Every day you have to get down on your knee's and kiss your little cars
Roundels on the front and the back. Guaranteed to make your car love
you.

Tonguing and rimming is not permitted or condoned, if caught doing so in
public, your BMW CCA membership will be immediately terminated, without
a vote of the membership.

However, what you do in the privacy of your garage is OK.


Chris, With another Friday with too much time and too little work to do.


> From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> 325e Why My Car Hates Me
> 
> I suggest plenty of chanting and dancing around a fire.  Nudity optional.
> 
> If that doesn't work, say to the car, "See what happened to the GELDing?
> Take a hint, you're next."
> 
> - - Rob
> 
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: Alix Sebesta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] <E30> 325e Why My Car Hates Me

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 12:25:06 -0500 
From: "Lin, Gary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Racing Dynamics

Yes, this is a sore subject, but a club member friend who's an insider at
Electrodyne - Racing Dynamics USA said that Electrodyne - RD USA, RD Sport,
and Racing Dynamics Spa have all made up touchy feely and will resume their
sales/mfg/mktg partnership.  There is a bit more involved than we all
speculate on.

> Gary Lin   National Capital Ch.   '88 325is street   '85 325eis track

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 12:24:52 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re: who wants to be a resale expert?

Values depend on location, too.  A good friend is selling his 95 M3- 29K 
miles never wrecked, rights side repaint because of keying for $22K--This 
appears typical in the few I've seen for sale in south Louisiana.

Will Bates
74 tii
97 M3/4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:23:08 -0600 
From: "Fadeev, Alex" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Need a floor jack

"Timothy Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> asks:
> 
> I remember everyone going ga-ga over the fancy jacks a few 
> months ago, but I can't (won't?)  swing $400 for a jack.
> What are my options? Buy the best one Sears has and hope it
> lasts a few years? Or am I just pissing money away? Anyone
> in the DC area have a decent jack they want to sell?

Tim,
Unless you are a jack fetishist, you will indeed be pissing money away
on those $400 jacks. 
Since they are all manufactured in the same very small part of the world
these days, the only two remaining considerations are weights and cost. 
Most 2 1/2+ ton jacks will cost around $40. You don't need more then 2
1/2 ton capacity (I am sure someone will try to argue that the larger
the capacity the greater the margin of safety - don't buy that). 
Look for the _lightest_ jack you can find. If you take the jack with you
to swap tires at an autocross course, throwing 100lb $400 jack in and
out of the trunk will get old _very_ fast. Bottle jacks are the
lightest, but their base will sink into warm (not even hot) asphalt.
Skip bottle jacks.
For a lifetime replacement warranty (added bonus) buy that same generic
2 1/2 ton jack from Sears. It will probably carry the same price and
will come in a plastic carrying case. 
No matter which jack you end up buying, remember to always stick jack
stands under the car if you start crawling underneath it for any length
of time.

alex f

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 09:37:24 -0800
From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Floor Jacks

I bought a Sears 2.25 ton floor jack to work on my '67 Camaro.  Let's
see, that was back in '86.  I rewarded its years of faithful service
last fall by changing its hydraulic fluid, and it continues to thank me
every time I walk past it on my way to my car.  It easily lifts the
entire side of the car from either the front or rear jack point.

Steve Albrecht
Golden Gate Chapter

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 12:39:33 -0500
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] The perfect car / Toyota/BMW/etc.

Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks wrote:

> It's an insider's view of ToyotaWorld, specifically how factory workers are
> treated.  Truly horrific, near-slave conditions.  Granted this was written a
> few years ago so things may have changed.

I have heard that things are not too bad at Toyota's US plants (where a majority
(I think) of US market cars are built.  They are in (generally) traditionally
non-industrial locations in the south, so the workforce may be more flexible as
compared with rust-belt union diehards tho.

> With the introduction of the current Camry, AutoWeek ran an article about
> how Toyota was specifically making steps to lower production costs,

I do not recall that part of the article, but more that they had made a large
effort to produce the vehicle based on a very strong yen at the beginning of the
design cycle, which then shifted in Toyota's favor, meaning that the new Camry
was able to offer more features for less money than the outgoing model.

> loosening the rigid requirements/tolerances for parts and parts from
> independent suppliers.  New Toyotas are NOT the same as old ones.

having been around the industry & deeply involved in the engineering/ccost
reduction side of the business, I have never heard of reducing tolerances as a
means of savings.  we use different materials and methods, but building in
"slop" in designs just to make them cheaper does not enter into the equation
here.  I'll reserve comment on the basic "goodness" of designs.

> BMW's major components do seem to be built stronger than most anything else.
> All the annoying stuff that breaks on our cars is usually an auxiliary
> component, controller, electronic piece, etc. - made by an independent
> supplier.

I think that the general nature of BMW's as higher priced "luxury" cars is a
part of the reason that they are built to last.  it is harder (tho not
impossible) to get the feeling of luxury/solidity/quality in a vehicle without a
basic design & exectuion that is very sound.  Higher quality parts will last
longer & proven designs will be evolved and improved.

Toyota has generally built completely solid "appliance" cars that fit a large
part of the market's desires, especially when cost of ownership & residual value
are factored in.  Enthusiasts are going to seek out something several steps
beyond the level of involvement that most Toyota (or Ford/GM/D-C/Nissan/Honda)
products offer.  When a company manages to work in performance & character into
a "commodity" car and then grow their customer base, then they're on to
something.  BMW has done a very good job of this, even if they have lost some of
the "edge" of earlier products in the name of feeding the overall market.


I agree with Neil's point about reliability vs. durability.  on top of that
there is the whole issue of "craftsmanship", which is something different than
"quality".  We have whole departments dedicated to this sort of thing.




Ben Keyes
'99 M coupe
'88 M5

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #380
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