[uucdigest]           Friday, March 3 2000           Volume 03 : Number 384



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] Honda M3 Pics
       [uuc] PTG E46 M3 weight != street E46 M3 weight !
       [uuc] Glove Responses
       [uuc] sheep
       [uuc] gas out 2000
       [uuc] Synthetic ATF
       Re: [uuc] Torque Wrenches
       [uuc] Clot it Cat - Is my opinion right?
       [uuc] DentFest2000
       [uuc] Re: DentFest2000
       [uuc] Jackstands!
       [uuc] Ya want a Hon-DO?
       [uuc] [E28] Driveline Misbehavior
       Re: [uuc] Ya want a Hon-DO?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 18:58:01 -0500
From: Ron Katona <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Honda M3 Pics

Patrick Burns wrote:
> Okay. You're an elitist snob.

Only because I'm taller, smarter, and better looking than most. ;-)
- --
Ron "don't hate me because I'm beautiful" Katona

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 19:06:15 -0500
From: "Adam Fila" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] PTG E46 M3 weight != street E46 M3 weight !

Sure the PTG E46 is 115 lbs ligter, but it helps that the new rulebook
allows them to run this light !  The E36 has been weight penalized for being
too dominant in competition (this was before the GT3-R came on the scene)
It has been carrying 100 lbs of balast.

You can not really consider race car weight to be any indication of what the
street car will weigh.  However, the chassis of the E46 is both more rigid
AND lighter than the E36 (according to Milner).  This weight saving will
offset some of the additional weight of the new features, big wheels, dual
exhausts, numerous lbs of tacky plastic bits here and there, tons of new
electronics, etc etc...  The net result is still to be seen.

- -Adam Fila
'95 M3

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Fadeev, Alex" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 12:53 PM
Subject: [uuc] RE: <E46 M3> Is the new M3 a porker?


> Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sez:
> >
> > the last US E36 M3 is listed at 3175, the E46 328Ci at 3197. Unless
> > some of those unique-to-M3 body panels are aluminum or composite, I
> > have a feeling that the M3 will weight even more, which IMO is
> > moving  in the wrong direction.  Adding power to compensate is one
> > thing, but mass is still mass, to the detriment of dynamics.
>
> BMW is indeed shy about the E46 M3 weight, but PTG
> (http://www.ptgracing.com/pressalms2.htm) is listing their new E46 M3 at
> about 115 lbs. _lighter_ then their E36 cars (2420 lbs. vs. 2535 lbs.).
> Now, PTG always puts their cars on a serious diet, but apparently E46
> chassis is noticeably lighter as well as longer, wider and more
> aerodynamic then its predecessor.
>
> > - - "BMW M Power" has been banished from the cam cover, with only a
> > solitary M badge to take its place.
>
> BMW seams to be quietly dropping the 'M Power' slogan. BMW Williams cars
> are now powered by 'BMW Power', not 'M Power' like the last BWM F1
> attempt. Go figure.
>
> The rest of the comments are largely "they don't make them like they
> used to" sentiments. I am too young to buy into that one.
>
> alex f

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 16:54:54 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Glove Responses

Hey thanks guys on responses about the gloves. Thanks Ken and Steve on the great
idea about high visibility colors. I won't be autocrossing my "boat" anytime
soon, but I'm giving serious thought to a driver school.

- -Kevin
'92 750iL
'78 911SC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 17:06:56 -0800
From: Jonathan Bliese <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] sheep

Were  those windows on the touring really tinted , or were they just
fogged up?
How much heavy breathing doe it take to overpower the ventilation in an
e34 touring
Jonathan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 17:45:44 -0800
From: Ken Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] gas out 2000

Dave sent this
(major snippage)
Lets
> see how many Canadian\American people we can get to ban together for a
> three day period in April, NOT TO BUY ANY GASOLINE, during those three
> days. LETS HAVE A GAS OUT.
> Buy what you need before the dates listed above, or after, but try not to
> buy any during the GAS OUT. 
(snip snip)

I have received several of these e-mails and it just kills me. How is
this supposed to hurt the gas companies? You're still buying gas. How
about finding alternative transportation so that you don't buy any gas?
Remember El Nino? Oil comsumption was down because of the unusually warm
weather and subsequently the cost of fuel also went down. 
- -- 

'87 325is

The past is over, learn from it.  
The future is coming, prepare for it. 
The present is here, enjoy it. 

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 17:54:00 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Synthetic ATF

Brett,

gotta disagree with your post a while back about not replacing flushed ATF for a
slush box with synthetic ATF. In the main, it is going to be better to replace
with synthetic ATF. The first time the ratio will be 1/2 old and 1/2 new (AND
superior). The next change (same interval as std) will now replace more of the
older fluid again with better material. etc. etc.

The point being that the newer fluid does have better characteristics and will
provide better protection/service.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 20:24:33 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Torque Wrenches

Don't get me wrong, click type torque wrenches are fine.  Its just for my
use, I'd rather not always be wondering if it was accurate.  Also I can
watch the scale and make sure the torque vs. angle curve is nice and smooth.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> >I prefer the bending beam type because they do not go out of calibration
> and
> >they are cheaper.  You need up to 80 ft-lbs for wheel bolts.  Probably 0
to
> >100 is the right type.  The click type are easier to use but I don't
trust
> them.
>
> Whoaaaa....You gotta be kiddin' me Gary!  Beam-type torque wrenches are
> about as modern as a points and condensors.  There are not even any
premium
> tool makers selling them anymore.  Hard to read (DAMN NEAR IMPOSSIBLE) on
> all but wheel lugs, try using one in the confines of torquing up a BMW
> caliper pin on the front brakes!  Clik-type is the way to go.....every
> airline and the military uses those, and they place them on a rigid
> calibration program to make sure they stay in spec (they get dropped a
lot,
> etc.).
>
> I've been real happy with my 3/8" Facom Torque Wrench from Steve D'G at
> www.ultimategarage.com.  What a beautiful instrument you'll enjoy owning.
> Don't abuse it, keep it in the case, and it will last a lifetime.  You'll
> find more use for 3/8" size around the car than you will a 1/2" wrench.
>
> - Duane Collie
> The Seven Sled
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 18:27:59 -0800
From: Polands <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Clot it Cat - Is my opinion right?

Just for something to do on Friday night, why don't a couple of you
ponder these symptoms:

Stebro cat+exhaust system suddenly gets quiet like stock.
acceleration power noticeably reduced.
going up hill acceleration above 3000 rpm results in pre ignition.
cold to pegged temp gage in 10 minutes normal driving.
periodic singular rattle at idle + harmonic rattle at about 3,000 rpm
 (at least that's what I could hear before this pre ignition bit
started)

This is with stock e28 535is 5spd. 
Water pump and belts new within last few months.

now that you are into forming your own opinions, is there any possible
cause other than plugged catalytic converter?

Steve Poland

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 21:27:32 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] DentFest2000

PLEASE READ THE "IMPORTANT" NOTES ON THE PAGE AND RESPOND TO ME.

DentFest2000:

WHAT
We are having Brian Roemer & Co. come out and give us a special rate on ding
removal: $50/car up to two dings.  There will be no repair of major dents or
paint work, this is strictly for garden-variety door dings.  Additional
dings quoted on-site.

WHEN
This Saturday, March 4, 8am to whenever we're finished.  Daylight is the key
element - when it gets dark, we are done.

WHERE
Advantage Auto Sales, Edison NJ.

two IMPORTANT things:

1) You MUST let me know if you plan on coming BEFORE noon or AFTER noon.  If
you are flexible, please let me know so I can tell you when to come.  This
is critical as having 25+ cars all at once will be a problem and we need to
space them out.

2) this is a CASH ONLY event.  Leave your AmEx and checkbook at home.



DIRECTIONS:
Take the NJ Turnpike to EXIT 9.

Right after you pay the toll, the road goes left or right... go RIGHT toward
Rt 18 North/Route1

STAY in the right lane as youmerge onto Rt 18.  You will immediately see a
sign for ROUTE 1 NORTH

Take ROUTE 1 NORTH exactly 1.6 miles, you come to an intersection/traffic
light.  The cross street is Plainfield Avenue.

You will see a U-TURN sign right before the light that refers to a road
immediately after the light.  Take the U-turn (it makes you drive around the
Cambria Mack building) and get on ROUTE 1 SOUTH

Take ROUTE 1 SOUTH a total of .4 mile.  You pass "Playtime Adult Boutique
(yellow sign), Hyway Audio (blue sign) and then you see METRO STOP gas
station.

Immediately after METRO STOP is Route 514 WEST.  Make the right onto 514W.

ADVANTAGE is about 1/8 mile on the right.  Please try to park toward the
rear or behind the garage building.

- - Rob Levinson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 21:57:18 -0500
From: Bob Crews <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: DentFest2000

CASH ONLY!!!  What is that guy's Social Security number?  He is paying
income taxes on this earned income isn't he?

Just kidding...

 
> PLEASE READ THE "IMPORTANT" NOTES ON THE PAGE
> DentFest2000:
> 
> WHAT
>
> $50/car up to two dings. 
>
> IMPORTANT:
> 
>
> this is a CASH ONLY event.  Leave your AmEx and checkbook at home.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 22:11:53 -0500
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Jackstands!

>I am pretty lazy when it comes to car repairs & I typically just use
>the jack without jack stands unless I need to get my head under the car,
and
>this thing has held up the car w/o stands for hours on end without dropping
>1 micron.
>Andy '95 M3

Andy!  <tsk-tsk-tsk>,

YOU know better, you've been around!  Damn....good luck to ya, hope yer car
ain't lowered and you get stuck under it someday, lemme tell you it gets
REAL hard to breathe with a car atop you.  How do I know?  Floor jacks
rarely fail as a catastrophe....more often they get moved.....(Do you sense
a story coming on?)

Waaaaaayyyy back in college days (Florida State # 1 !!  And Bobby Bowden is
a God!), I had a 1963 Split Window Corvette, my pride and joy.  It burned
out a clutch one day, so being poor - I replaced it myself.  I'm working on
dual floor jacks with the rear tires blocked, front of the car up in the air
in the garage, under the dorm.  I had no jackstands.  Well, wouldn't you
know it, while wrestling with the transmission, I stupidly and inadvertendly
kicked one of the jacks with my foot hard enough to move it....which made it
roll out.  As the car moved, it caused the second jack to fall over sideways
(thank goodness I had left all the wheels on the car), and the whole car
came down. So now, I'm pinned under the car, smack amidships and lemme tell
you I absolutely FREAKED OUT.  The whole car is on my chest, my head
immobilized turned sideways, and its hard to breathe.  I had a hard time
yelling as I had only enough lung space to take like half a breath.   (And
this is back in the days of 70 series tires and before we lowered our cars,
so I had a bit of ground clearance working in my favor - plus I was skinney
then). That had to be the second longest 5 minutes of my life....and it was
all I could do to stay calm and not panic.  Finally, a buddy of mine came by
(he knew I was working on the car) and heard my pleas.....jacked the car up
and I skeeeedadled out of there.

And that, was the last time I ever got under a car with no jackstands.  I
don't even like - to this day - working under a car with cheesie China-made
jackstands.  I want top quality, pro equipment 'cause my life is worth it.

Some times you DO get lucky.

- - Duane
The Seven Sled

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 22:25:57 -0500
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Ya want a Hon-DO?

> Yet, if I post an occassional message on a Honda board
> because I happen to own a '98 Accord, it somehow turns it into a
> riceboy fantasy? What about Hondas disgust you so much? Gee, I don't
> have a 6" wing, an aftermarket exhaust, a slammed suspension, or even
> a single sticker on my car. I'd say it's a damn fine car for $19k...

Naw....its a pile o' crud that'll die at 120K like ALL HONDAS DO.  If it's
not the timing belt, it will be the head gasket.  If its not the head
gasket, it will be the alternator or the A/C compressor.  That, or it will
simply rust away....s-l-o-w-l-y.  I've never had a Honda (and I've owned
from Civics to Legends) that had any durability beyond 100K miles to speak
of.

Now, take that $ 19,000, add exactly $ 3, 800 like I did, and you're in a
1995 740i with 60,000 miles on it, like mine ! <g>. No wings, no aftermarket
pipes, no suspension mods, no stickers and it will show the Honda the way to
the barn anyway it wants to run.   Acceleation, top end, handling,
longevity, comfort, cornering, stereo (well, maybe not), load capacity,
babe-o-magnet, status symbol,  you name it.  And it will last....and
last.....and last (praying to the electrical gods to be nice to my
car).......heck the sheet metal alone is probably twice the thinkness of the
stuff that comes over from the Land of the Rising Sun (yes, even my Toyo
Land Cruiser has thin sheet metal).....

See?  FREAKIN' HONDA DONE SCREWED YA OVER.

- - Duane
The Seven Sled

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 22:43:21 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] [E28] Driveline Misbehavior

Howdy, all-

   Once again, I call upon the wisdom of the UUC...  

Last month, I noticed a very loud "drumroll" (about 3-7 rapid beats) 
emanating from between/behind the front seats.  "That's a u-joint and/or the 
center support bearing," says me.  (Old center u-joint was almost locked, 
center bearing loose as a goose...)  This morning, I installed the reman. 
driveshaft (from Driveline in Portland) along with the UUC shift kit. 
(WOO-HOO!!!)  All is great, thinks me.  This evening, I was out "clearing the 
carbon out of the head" when the drumroll-thing happened again - just like 
before.  Rapid succession of underside pounding between 3-4k rpm upon hard 
acceleration in 1st (only).  Guibo looks to be tip-top (no cracks, 
distortion, or obvious flaws, but is old).  Spline nut was hand-tightened.  
Did I fudge the preload on the center support bearing somehow?  

Any thoughts/critisisms/advice appreciated!

Thanks,
RobW
'85 535i   

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 22:56:54 -0500
From: "James Sheridan-Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Ya want a Hon-DO?

> Naw....its a pile o' crud that'll die at 120K like ALL HONDAS DO.  If it's

My wife's 84 Prelude at 250K would beg to differ. :)

It IS showing it's age and may not last here much longer, but that's at least
partly due to the need for her to haul more things now that I'll be hauling
the race car with the truck more often.  She loves the car and continually
makes 7hr drives in it, in comfort.  It's not a 7 (not even close!) but it has
served us more than adequately.

All generalizations are inaccurate. <g>

- --
James Sheridan-Peters
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
National Capital Chapter
'98 323is
'85 SCCA Spec RX-7 #00

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #384
**************************

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