[uucdigest]           Sunday, March 5 2000           Volume 03 : Number 391



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Re: Wheel Paint
       [uuc] Re: New 3.0 motor
       [uuc] FS Garage Sale - Mostly Zymol Items
       [uuc] WANTED E36/M3 PARTS
       [uuc] For you Q tippers...
       [uuc] Re: new inline 6s
       [uuc] <WOB> Oil, Oil, Oil
       [uuc] SOLO II /E30 M3
       [uuc] E30 rear sway bar link
       [uuc] CD Changers
       [uuc] Rear Panels on E36
       [uuc] [e36] Driver side window won't go down!!
       [uuc] DentFest Pictures...
       [uuc] Set of RD Sport RGQ Wheels for Sale - Cheap
       Re: [uuc] <E30> Fuel Injector Removal
       [uuc] E30 ///M3 Gathering

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Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 18:05:17 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re: Wheel Paint

Almost all BMW wheels are finished in Polaris Metallic, which is BMW paint 
code 060. There are exceptions, though. Some optional European wheels were 
Nogaro Silber Metallic -- such as the 16" units on the E30 M3 Evolution cars. 
And of course the new E39 M5 wheels have their own unique hue.

While any competent auto paint store should be able to mix up Polaris with 
reasonable accuracy, I've seen more screw-ups on this color than anything 
else, for some reason. I'd say that if you can find a store that mixes 
Glasurit paints, which are often used by BMW, you'll probably be fine.

The posters who mentioned Wurth wheel paint are absolutely correct, in my 
experience, and this is probably the easiest way to go. We used to be able to 
get Polaris Metallic in spray cans from BMW, but for the most part the 
factory has gotten out of the paint business in the US due to bureacratic 
regulations. I've repainted many BMW alloys with the factory spray cans (the 
used to have clear, too) and the results were excellent. Since the spray cans 
went NLA, I've started using the Wurth products. All Wurth products are 
outstanding, in my opinion.

Both the BMW spray cans and the Wurth paint are polyurethane enamels, with 
lots of isosianates. This is nasty stuff, and anyone spraying it would do 
well to buy themselves a good filter mask.

Mike Miller

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 18:06:45 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re: New 3.0 motor

In a message dated 3/4/00 7:14:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> So, is the new 3.0 l 6 still an M52? 

No, the new engine is designated M54.

Stephen
'96 328ti Sport
'99 R1200C

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 18:16:27 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] FS Garage Sale - Mostly Zymol Items

GARAGE SALE

Greetings all:

I am getting ready to move and have the found the additional following items 
for my garage sale: 

(2) Zymol Introductory kits with Carbon Wax. New $20.00 each
(4) Zymol Auto Bathe, 8 oz's New $5.00 each
(1) Zymol Field Glaze New $10.00
(2) Zymol Acrylic Wax New $12.00 each

(1) BMW CD changer installation brackets for E34 BMW (Pioneer unit) New make 
offer.

(1) BMW CD Changer installation kit for all E36 2 and 4 Doors with cover New 
$40.00

 (1) BMW CD Changer installation kit for all E36 2 and 4 Doors with no cover 
New $15.00


Contact Steve Diamond 303-588-9600 or [EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 18:32:41 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] WANTED E36/M3 PARTS

I'd like to find the LTW rear spoiler (I believe it is four pieces?)  I'd 
also like to find the front splitter that is (also) found on the LTW 
M3....Please respond to [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Chris
95 M3

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 19:08:47 EST
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> (Peder Andersen)
Subject: [uuc] For you Q tippers...

Just tried my Griot's window cleaner with their "lint free" towels.  It is the best 
stuff I've ever used to get interior/exterior of my Bimmer's windows clean.  
Unbelieveable.  Much better than Windex, and better than PS21 window wipes.

Also tried out the detailer/spritzer, with their cotton towels.  (yeah, okay, two 
Christmas presents..)  Results are good, though I don't know if it's any better than 
the Meguiar's I've used.

Usual disclaimers.

Pete
'00 M Coupe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 16:17:36 -0800
From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: new inline 6s

The new sixes are part of the M54/S54 family.  Initially, there will 
be 2.5/B25 and 3.0/B30 versions (plus the S54/B32 for the M3).

There are rumors that the models which have 2.0/2.5 engines will 
eventually get 2.3/2.7 liter versions respectively, in the future.

I've seen conflicting reports as to whether the M54 is an all-new 
design, or a further evolution of the M50/M52.  I suspect the latter, 
with refinements (like roller rocker arms in the valvetrain) to 
modernize the emissions and fuel efficiency characteristics, as is 
the aim with most new engines nowadays.

With regard to power outputs, I won't hazard a guess.  Enough people 
have done so already, with the consensus 22x bhp for the 3.0 and 
170-200 bhp for the 2.5, depending on how forthcoming BMW is about 
true hp figures.

As always, buyers of early production output beware.

Herman

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 19:19:53 -0500 
From: "Osterbrink, Mark (AFS-Warren)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <WOB> Oil, Oil, Oil

Why the big focus on oil temperature in engine warm up?  I always thought
that the purpose of the warm up is to ensure that the engine components are
at the designed stage of thermal expansion, and that it's the coolant's job
to keep them at that temperature once they reach it.  I also thought that
the oil's job was to lubricate the bearings, cams, and cylinders.  Any
temperature management of the oil was to ensure that it didn't overheat.  Is
there something I'm missing on watching the oil temperature?  It seems to me
that the oil is a very poor indicator of the engine condition, as it doesn't
have much contact with the hot parts of the engine, and has poor thermal
conductivity compared to the coolant.  As long as it's warm enough to flow
properly, it should be fine, no?

And for you slackers who only change your oil every 3,000 miles, this is the
oil change procedure I got from a guy who works in a department that hand
assembles engines at a German manufacturer:

Warm engine
Drain oil
Fill with new oil
Run engine until oil is warm
Drain oil
Install new filter
Final fill with new oil

Gotta flush out that system, ya know (that should keep everyone more anal
than me up all night, wondering if they've destroyed their engine with
negligence).

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 18:22:21 -0600
From: David Yando <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] SOLO II /E30 M3

> 
> Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 05:17:05 EST
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [uuc] e30 M3 upgrades for Solo2
> 
> I am having a major amount of work done on my M3 in the next few weeks and 
> need a little help with what is and is not allowable modifications for Solo2 
> AutoX.  
> 
> If someone can, could they please tell me what I can and cannot upgrade as 
> far as suspension, intake, exhaust, brakes etc. and still stay in the AS 
> class.   As of right now the car is set up as stock.
> 
> Also, if I do make modifications that bump me up to another class... I've 
> heard that the next class up is a much more competative class for the E30 
> M3.. i.e. the car is a closer match with the competion after the 
> modifications.  If this is true, then what modifications should I make to 
> boost up to the next class level. 
> 
> I'd also like some suggestions/recommendations on brands for strut braces, 
> brake pads and exhaust.  
> 
> I'm not a member of the M3 sig yet but plan on joining soon... until then any 
> and all help from this uuc is very much appreciated.  
> 
> Thank you.
> - - Ezra 
> 1988 E30 M3

Hi Ezra,

Just returned from my 1st (with this particular car) autocross of the
season. The SCCA rulebook is thick but cheap. There is almost no way
that an e-mail will give a complete and comprehensive answer, so spend
the $10 bucks. If it's not in the rulebook, they didn't forget it, it's
just not allowed. As far as classification goes - our cars are in A
stock, along with E36 M3s and other worthy competitors. Bump up to CSP
and you'll get your clock cleaned on a regular basis by Civic Sis,
SE-Rs, and others. There is a world of experience to be gained by
learning your car under stock configuration - it was built to be a race
car, after all. Autocross is not its best showing, but it's pretty damn
fun! Stock does not mean stock, BTW, you are pretty free with shocks,
brake pads, cat-back exhaust, low restriction air filter, and best of
all you can run R-compound tires. But first, learn how to drive - get
some seat time, ride with others and get them to ride with you. Spend
your money on getting experience - the car has capabilities you probably
have not begun to tap. Not putting you down in any way, just hate to see
someone pour money into a car that is already so capable before learning
how to use it. I am having to re-learn all over again, as my last car,
an '02, had no power, no limited slip diff, etc., but it was a great
tool in how to use momentum and general technique. 

David Yando
'74 2002 FSP "Underdog" (40+ event veteran)
'90 M3 AS "Buzz Bomb" (1st timer!)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 19:52:23 -0500 
From: "Smethers, Jeffrey D (Jeffrey)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E30 rear sway bar link

Digesters,
I pulled the left rear wheel off of my 'ix this afternoon in an effort to
determine why I was hearing strange suspension noises only to discover that
the sway bar is not connected to the link that runs to the trailing arm.  I
raised the trailing arm with a jack but the angle wasn't correct to pop the
sway bar into the link.  What am I doing wrong here ?  It doesn't look as if
I need to remove the spring although it would make things much easier for
clearance.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.


Regards,
Jeffrey Smethers ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
'74 2002tii            '88 325ix

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 20:54:39 -0500
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] CD Changers

> I'm curious about CD changers. Is there anywhere I can purchase one
without
> paying dealer price. I found a site, but I'm uncertain as to which one to
> purchase. I have a 99 328is. Do I get Alpine or Pioneer? Thanks for any
> advice given.

Won't work....BMW is one step ahead of you already.  What they do is use a
proprietary BMW-only wiring harness to the CD unit.  So you can buy the
exact same Alpine or Pioneer unit that has the BMW logo on it, but when you
go to hook it up the plugs won't fit the pre-wires.  PITA.  So then your
choices are to rewire the plugs (nightmare) or to run a new set of wires to
the head unit (even worse nightmare).  Better to catch a used one for your
car here on the Digest.

However, you CAN buy extra CD magazines for the BMW units that are standard
Alpine or Pioneer units and they'll work fine at half the dealer price for
the BMW magazines.

- - Duane Collie
The Seven Sled

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 21:04:43 -0500
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Rear Panels on E36

>The dent is about 2 inches below the rear window and mostly below the
crease
>but there is a small amount of dent just above the crease. When the
interior
>panels are taken off in the back seat, is there open area to work the dent
>out? Can anyone tell me the proper way to take the interior panels out of
the
>rear? Are they just fastened with those plastic pieces where you simply pop
>them out or are they tricky to remove?

The Rear Panels are a bit of a pain to get out on an E36, and difficult to
re-align again.  There's room to work that damaged area when you get them
out, but let the body shop guys do it.  One reason is because of the
outboard seat buckle which has to come off....this requires a 16mm socket
and is very hard to get to.  I could only get access to it with a 'wobble
extension', and then getting it reinstalled without cross-threading is a
black art.  The panel itself (going from memory, been a while) requires you
pull off the weatherstripping on the edge, raise it up over the window lip,
and then work off the plastic clips without tearing them out of breaking
them (GOOD LUCK).

If the dent is in the beltline crease, you're SOL for a Dentmaster type of
fix.  Traditional body shop fix is to pull the dent,
fill/sand/repaint.....about a $ 350 repair but all done from the outside.

- - Duane Collie
The Seven Sled

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 18:08:05 -0800
From: "Ahmad S. Hamzawi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] [e36] Driver side window won't go down!!

Hi all, my driver's side window in my 94 325ic won't go down at all. I took
it to get diagnosed and they think it's the switch.

How can I test the switch? I looked under the panel below the steering wheel
and didn't see any comfort relay or anything of the sort. Do I just pop out
the switch itself and try the passenger one and see what happens or am I
actually looking for some special relay? Because of this, the window stays a
crack open when I close the door since the window doesn't move at all -
really annoying.

Any advice?

Regards
- --------------------
Ahmad Hamzawi
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 18:22:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] DentFest Pictures...

I finally got around to renaming them and shrinking them.  If you want high res
pics of the pictures, e-mail me.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/3287/DentFest

The filename contains the description of the pic.  Unfortunately, I didn't
realize that the default IE directory listing cuts off long filename to a short
name.  If you click it and view the pic, you will see the full filename in the
URL.  Sorry.  Maybe when I get around to creating an html page for it ;)

Enjoy,
Chester

=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 21:49:51 -0500
From: "Jonathan Farber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Set of RD Sport RGQ Wheels for Sale - Cheap

I have a set of 5 17x8 inch RD Sport RCQ wheels I would like to sell.

3 of the wheels are mounted with Bridgestone S-02's (235/45/17) with
about 6,000 miles on them, and a fourth has an S-02 with about 500 miles
on it.

2, possibly three of the rims are slightly bent, but according to my
local dealership are definitely repairable - I just don't have the time
to deal with the hassle factor.

I know they will fit E34's and I believe they will fit other BMWs with
appropriate hardware.

Email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] or call 203-293-2752

Prefer local buyers (I'm in Fairfield County, CT) so I don't have to
ship.

$1,000 OBO

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 21:54:19 -0500
From: "The Hall Family" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Fuel Injector Removal

Pat,

Thanks.  The penetrating oil helped, and the re-assurance that I could get
them back on without a sledgehammer helped even more.  It amazes me how such
fragile components have to be man-handled.

- -Dave Hall

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Pat Donahue <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "The Hall Family" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Fuel Injector Removal


> Ah, such fond recollections.  You'll need to pull pretty hard but they do
> pull out after that clip is removed.  Try putting some penetrating oil on
> them for a while.  I ended up putting the rail down onto some bricks and
> putting my foot on it to pull.  They'll go back together quite nicely if
you
> dip the O-rings into regular motor oil on assembly.
>
> Geeeze
> '95 Honda ST1100A for sale - $8000
> '84 Chevy K10 Suburban turbo diesel for sale - $5000
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "The Hall Family" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
> > In an effort to eliminate a rough idle, I'm replacing the o-ring seals
on
> > the fuel injectors.  I've gotten the electrical connection off and the
> > injectors out of the cylinder head.  I removed the metal retaining clip
> > securing the injector to the fuel rail, but I cannot get the injector of
> the
> > "boot" on the rail.  I can even twist it 360 degrees, but it won't come
> off
> > the rail.  Any suggestions?  How hard should I have to tug?  The car is
an
> > 89 325is.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:54:02 -0800
From: Sam Nakawatase <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E30 ///M3 Gathering

The BMW CCA Los Angeles Chapter E30M3 Group will be holding our second
get
together celebration of this great car in conjunction with the BMW CCA
Los
Angeles Chapter Picnic and Clean car Contest to be held on Sunday, April
30
at the Huntington Beach Central Park, Huntington Beach, CA.  We will
have a
special designated "E30M3 Corral" in which to park our cars and this is
a
great opportunity for you to get together with other E30M3 owners and
enthusiasts to share ideas and learn what others have done to their cars
to
make them "special and unique"!  If you wish to enter the Clean Car
Contest,
it is highly recommended that you pre-register for the event.  The cost
is
$25.00 per entry.  If you wish to to come just for the Display only, it
is
also highly recommended that you also pre-register and the cost is
$10.00!
Part of the fun for this event is the Charity Auction in which donated
gifts
from area BMW Dealers and individuals are auctioned off with all of the
proceeds donated to charity!  Get your pocketbooks ready as, in the
past,
we've had some very nifty BMW related items auctioned off at a fraction
of
their original cost!!  Application forms are printed in the current
issue of
the LA Chapter's "Whispering Bomb" or you can request one by sending an
E-mail with your name and address to : [EMAIL PROTECTED] (David Boen) or
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (Sam Nakawatase) and we will be happy to put one
in the
mail for you!  Bring your picnic lunch, your comfy lawn chair, your
family
and your friends and be prepared for a day of great fun and fellowship
with
your fellow E30M3 enthusiasts as well as see other various BMW models in
all
its great splendor of cleanliness!!  Can it get better than this?

Sam
LA BMW CCA
89 E30 ///M3
95 E36

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #391
**************************

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