[uucdigest] Monday, March 6 2000 Volume 03 : Number 394 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Re: E30 M3 upgrades for Solo2 [uuc] Re: GAS OUT [uuc] <E30> 325iC engine stalling [uuc] Boston area dyno day - March 25 [uuc] [E30] Gathering in Wilmington, DE Re: [uuc] Re: <E30> subframe q's [uuc] Hubcap Joe's Big BMW WHEEL BONANZA! [uuc] <E30> WTB Cabrio rear view mirror Re: [uuc] Rear Panels on E36 [uuc] BMW M Contour Wheels for sale [uuc] 318ti Compact Auto Re: [uuc] Rear Panels on E36 [uuc] E46 ti (was: US Spec E46 Vehicles (M52 vs. M54 etc)) [uuc] Re: What's the best way to get pencil mark out of headliner? BA RE: [uuc] Avus Blue M5 <FS> [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #391 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 00:54:45 -0800 From: Jim Ochi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: E30 M3 upgrades for Solo2 At 10:36 PM 3/5/00 -0800, Randy Walters wrote: > > Hmmm, it's possible that those "Killer Audi S4s" have the H&R Coilover >Kit that's so popular with the VW and Audi crowd. If that's what they're >using, then that boots em out of Street Prepared. The H&R Kit uses >a threaded body strut, but the rules allow changing or modifying spring >perches originally attached to struts. They cannot, however, change the >whole strut. In other words they have to retain the original front strut >and i'm pretty sure the H&R setup completely replaces it. If this is true, >tell em to take it to OSP :-) Besides, a well driven CSP E30 M3 should >be able to beat any Audi.... > Hi Randy - I was just taking a look through my brand new 2000 Solo II rulebook, and section 14.5.c says: "MacPherson strut equipped cars may substitute struts, and/or may use any insert." BTW, in talking to the Audi Dudes and Dudettes, I think one of them is using the H&R kit, another is using something called "Vortraq(?)" (which I think is a kit built around custom-valved Konis), and I don't know what the other S4 folks are using... Jim Ochi [EMAIL PROTECTED] P.S. - on today's course, in CSP, a Honda beat out all the Audis! Also, at least two E36 M3s beat the best Audi S4's time... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 09:56:29 -0000 From: "David Kaplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: GAS OUT Sorry to let you all know, but I'm paying $2.99 a gallon these days, and my average mpg has gone down to 12 mpg.... (living in London). Dave Kaplan '99 M3Ca, sharked. ... > Do not buy any gasoline from APRIL 7, 2000, THROUGH APRIL 9, 2000. Buy what > you need before the dates listed above, or after, but try not to buy any > during the GAS OUT. Yes... The gas prices seem to have really gotten out-of-hand! They've been bad... but yesterday, I was confronted with $1.68.9 mid-grade prices at my local Cleveland area Speedway by... up from $1.53.9 two days earlier! I guess I'll start looking for a Geo Metro. or a Civic HF.... (NOT!) Mark Borchik ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 02:03:45 -0800 (PST) From: Alex Chia <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> 325iC engine stalling Dear Digesters I am posting this on behalf of a net impaired friend who has a problem with his 1988 E30 325iA convertible. The car has about 90k miles on the clock and has been running OK until recently when it began stalling every now and again. The engine will start again but then will not idle and then stall again. The thing is that the problem only manifests itself occasionally but the frequency has been increasing. The weather condition ranges from hot to very hot (35+ deg C).If anyone has any ideas where to begin troubleshooting the problem, please help. Thanks in advance for any help / advice received. Best regards, Alex Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 05:24:40 -0500 From: Ken W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Boston area dyno day - March 25 Hi. On March 25 we are having a dyno day at BPG in Boston, but it should be a good time for all. There is a limit to 10 cars at $75 each for max 30 minutes each. As well as that it should be a great crowd turning up, including Ben and Rob from UUC Motorwerks. Rob should hopefully have his E34 M5 Touring, too. There are five spots left for the dyno, so let me know if you want to do it. Any questions on equipment or anything like that, you can contact BPG directly. http://www.b-p-g.com/ . I arranged with this Matt Poor. - -Ken '91 M3 '86 GTI - -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] AIM: ScopusFest ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 06:27:22 EST From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [E30] Gathering in Wilmington, DE An E30 gathering is planned for June 20th in Wilmington, Deleware. The event will feature lunch and socializing for a bunch of BMWE30.net messageboard friends who have organized this (myself included). It will be a very laid back atmosphere. Socializing, a group drive thru some twisty mountain roads, socializing, hanging out at European Racing Technologies (ERT) for dyno runs and food, et al! If you are interested please contact me as soon as possible. We would like to organize this and not have to worry about it when time nears. Steve '87 325iS ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 07:21:00 -0500 From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <E30> subframe q's Ah. Randy and I are addressing two different problems here. I did run across that plug on top of the bolt doing one car, a '90 325, but not on my '88. Yes, that plug would absorb any shock you might use to free the subframe bushing. The problem I was addressing is that after that bolt has been completely removed most cars will hang onto the top of the actual subframe bushing itself. The bushing has an aluminum core that's machined to fit into a well on the underside of the body. Because the bushing is aluminum and the body is steel you get some pretty neat corrosion there. On my '87 when I pried down to pop it out the bushing broke on one side. On the other side I managed to raise the entire rear of the car with a 4 foot wrecking bar. The bar bent before the bushing let go. That's a pretty serious piece of steel. That's when I learned the shock treatment. Once you've gotten any plugs out from the top of the bolt you can actually put the bolt back in place so that you can firmly smack the top (and hence the top of the bushing underneath) with something hard. This isn't a place for a dead blow or plastic mallet. Geeeze '88 325is SCCA ITS - ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy Walters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Randy Walters teases with: > >>I have a trick for breaking the subframe's knurled press-pins out > >>without banging, beating, or swearing . . . > > > Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > >Well geez Randy, don't just leave us hanging like that!!! > >What's the latest trick? I read Pat D's to strike the pin from the top > >before anything else is apart. > >Carlos > >91 M3 > > On my 89 325is, could not see the knurled press-fit bolts from > inside the car because the recesses in the floor were filled with a thick > slathering of body-colored silicone rubber from the factory. There > was no way in hell to see where these bolts were located from inside > as they had never been removed before. > > I banged on em from below with various mallets and a hand-held > sledge hammer but they wouldn't budge no matter how hard i hit > em. So i came up with the idea of using the car's weight to > break them loose and it worked great :-) > > I placed a small floorjack just below the bolt and raised the jack pad > till it just touched the bolt, then i gently and slowly pumped the jack > a few pumps and raised the car up off the jackstand about a 1/4 inch, > then the weight of the car broke the knurled bolt loose and the car > settled back down onto the jackstand, pushing the bolt up enough > to break it loose. From there i removed the jack and knocked the > bolt into the passenger compartment with a short dowel hit with a > carpenters hammer. Don't raise the car more than a 1/4" off the > jackstand cause you don't want it crashing down once that bolt > breaks free. If the bolt breaks loose but you still can't knock it > all the way up, use the jack again with a dowel up in the hole > through the bushing and use it as a reverse press to push the bolt > up and out. The thing that kept my bolts from breaking loose > was an inch-thick plug of body-color silicone rubber filling the > hole above the head of the bolts, not to mention the press-fit > of the knurled bolts themselves. When i jacked the bolt up, it > pushed the silicone up and out of the hole leaving an inch-long plug > of silicone laying on the floor. Make sure you pile some towels or > blankets over this area in case the bolt goes flying inside the car. > Apparently they've been known to go flying up inside the car and > damage things when knocked out, dunno if my method would > but i covered them anyway to be safe. I was surprised to find > the plug was so thick, that hole is so deep and the bolt's flat > head is hidden way down there. It wasn't visible at all before > i pushed it out of there, exposing the hole. > > These knurled bolts are a tight fit as it is and being a press-fit makes > them very very tight, and the rubber plug above the flat round head > didn't help. I think the rubber plug made hitting the bolt with the big > hammer useless as the rubber plug would probably compress and > spread out, further gripping the side of the opening above the bolt's > head. It took jacking it up to push it up and out, hitting it did nothing. > > Randy > 89 325is ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 06:29:30 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Hubcap Joe's Big BMW WHEEL BONANZA! check out the latest batch of take-off, used, OEM BMW wheels for dem big cars. 5-ers, 7-ers, even dem 6-ers. pimp out yer sled like that crazy boy Collie. http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/wheels first come, first serve. no pushing. ben liaw (aka HubCap Joe) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 07:52:09 -0500 From: "Michael S. Radcliffe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> WTB Cabrio rear view mirror The rear view mirror on my '90 325ica was loose & jiggling. So I thought I would remove it and find out if I could tighten it up. My "repair" has the mirror jiggling 3X as much as before. So I am looking for a rear view mirror & the mounting disk which gets glued to the windshield. Mike Radcliffe 90 325ica ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 08:09:51 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Rear Panels on E36 In a message dated 3/5/00 9:08:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << The panel itself (going from memory, been a while) requires you pull off the weatherstripping on the edge, raise it up over the window lip, and then work off the plastic clips without tearing them out of breaking them (GOOD LUCK). If the dent is in the beltline crease, you're SOL for a Dentmaster type of fix. Traditional body shop fix is to pull the dent, fill/sand/repaint.....about a $ 350 repair but all done from the outside. >> //////////////////// I spent a little time last night looking at the pieces and you are right Duane...I'm gonna leave this one to the experts. I sure hope that a Dentmaster type repair can be performed. I can't stand the thought of drilling a hole/bondo/sanding and repainting...OUCH! Thanks for the info...now I've got to find a superb bodyshop. Ken '95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 07:20:35 -0600 From: "Christopher J. Kolaitis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] BMW M Contour Wheels for sale Set of four 17x7.5 BMW M Contours in excellent condition, with no curb rash with small cosmetic scratches that don't extend below the clear coat. All wheels are round and true. $850.00 firm, plus shipping from Highland Park, IL 60035. I can deliver if you are in the Chicago area. Chris Kolaitis, [EMAIL PROTECTED] or 847.926.0568. Thank you, Chris, Windy City Club ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 13:27:36 -0000 From: "Bancroft, Simon (London)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 318ti Compact Auto All, I have finally persuaded my girlfriend to be part of the BMW fraternity, and she is taking out a 318ti compact Auto for a run this afternoon in West London. She likes the look of the car, and I have yet to hear her report on how she feels about driving it. Am sure it will be favourable. Does anyone have any tips on checking these out before purchase ? I will be able to check all the usual items, and cosmetics OK but need a little guidance on mechanicals/body etc. for this model as my daily driver is an E28 M535i, a little different. It is on a BMW forecourt, Milcars of Stanmore, Middx and they will provide full warranty and FBMWSH on this car. 1995, Auto, with a generous px on her old Ni**an 200 SX turbo (which is just about to eat its third turbo, I am sick of installing these things). All tips greatly appreciated from the collective wisdom on this fantastic list. Please reply privately to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks Banners ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 08:30:57 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Rear Panels on E36 In a message dated 3/6/00 12:24:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << We saw Brian do a couple of those also - in fact, the single ding on each of my M5s was on the beltline crease. The blue one came out great and the black one, being deeper, came out 95%. >> Rob, Thank you for the encouraging words. I'm hoping for the same type results...I just can't stand the thought of a conventional body shop drilling and filling. I'll let you all know what happens. Thanks again for everyones help/suggestions. Ken Arutunian '95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 08:35:00 -0400 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E46 ti (was: US Spec E46 Vehicles (M52 vs. M54 etc)) At 9:17 PM -0700 3/5/2000, Land Shark wrote: > Also with a 323Ti model. (this would be cool!) Yippee! Rumor has it that there might even be a E46 ti ///M version in 2002. An E36 ///M version ti was considered in '95 but never materialized. ...steven E36/5 ncc ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 08:57:07 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: What's the best way to get pencil mark out of headliner? BA Simple Green and a WHITE rag. Brett Anderson www.koalamotorsport.com Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual > From: "Murray Wilks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] What's the best way to get pencil mark out of headliner? > > So the wife had a pencil in her hand in the ol' E36 and when she threw a bag > in the back seat, she drew a long pencil line in the headliner. > > Murray ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 09:23:01 -0500 From: "Simon Hunter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Avus Blue M5 <FS> Jeff wrote: Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 13:07:17 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Avus Blue M5 <FS> All right troops, here's you chance. Y'all been drooling onto the keyboard about Rob's new car. I can quite match it, but it's close. 93 M5 Individual Avus/silver leather with ///M sport cloth inserts in seats Dark gray wood trim One of last four US cars built 3/93 Concours condition, near flawless inside and out.... Just my 2 cents, but I have seen this car and it is the most beautiful M5 I have ever seen. Jeff is a friend of my mine so take that for what it is worth. Simon 88 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 09:36:16 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #391 In a message dated 00-03-05 22:41:10 EST, you write: << [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Chris, I think I replied to you before... I have an M3 LTW Front Splitter for sale... Bought it used from tc kline about 3 months ago - decided not to put it on... Where are you located? You interested? Bruce Roegiers office: 404-269-6790 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #394 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
