[uucdigest] Sunday, March 26 2000 Volume 03 : Number 510 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] RE: 540/M3 Re: [uuc] Re: <misc.> Laser or Radar? Black cars exempt? Re: [uuc] Snapped Bolt [uuc] Oil Weight for Driving Schools [uuc] Brake rotor fits??? RE: [uuc] Brakes squealing like a stuck pig [uuc] re: ACHTUNG... [uuc] No, no, no, no, no, no, no [uuc] <FS> 5 E30 bottlecap wheels RE:[uuc] (WOB) Posting F1 Results [uuc] <MISC> re:Pressure washers; summary [long] [uuc] CCA rebate ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 17:13:34 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: 540/M3 I am *extremely* biased... Luckily the M3 shifter can be likewise upgraded. The parts between the two cars are built exactly the same (different part numbers) and upgraded the same. And yes, Brian, we *do* have a shortshifter for your Coupe. - - Rob Levinson UUC Motorwerks * www.uucmotorwerks.com * 732-398-0001 - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: 540/M3 > Rob, you are not biased towards that at all are you. > > > >The 540i shifter assembly can be upgraded to feel much better than the M3 > (>and the M3 can be upgraded too). > >Check out www.uucmotorwerks.com for details on the delrin carrier bushings > > Brian Jacobs > 98 318ti > 99 Z3 coupe (wising I had a short shifter) > Everglades CCA > [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 17:37:32 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: <misc.> Laser or Radar? Black cars exempt? Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks writes: > ARGH!!! > > I meant to type "LIDAR", not radar. > > Black cars absorb the laser, reflecting very little. Even the ones with really shiny black paint? - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 17:57:31 -0500 From: Andrew Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Snapped Bolt I gotta disagree in this case. Thing is, if you use an extractor, the metal filings get in the oil supply. And in this case in the oil supply after the filter, so they all get one shot to run through your bearings before they are filtered. That's bad. In this case, I would take the filter housing off. Cheap insurance. Andrew Duane Collie wrote: > > >I broke the long bolt that goes through the oil filter cap through and into > >the oil housing and most of the threaded portion of the bolt is stuck > inside > >the housing. How can I get it out?? > > Manual, > > You need special extractors for this. Snap-On makes a set (and yes, I do > have it in my box) that's designed especially to remove snapped off bolts > (actually they're screws, but we won't beat ya up too much on a technicality > <g>) that are in engine components, etc. It consists of matched bits, > Snap-On easy-outs, and alignment jigs so your bit will drill true. About $ > 100.00 for the kit from your local Snap-On guy as I recall. Then, all you > need is a drill, a hammer, and a steady hand. > > Your other option would be to call a mobile repair service and explain > exactly what happened. Chances are the guy will have that kit (or similar) > on his truck. > > Good Luck! > Duane Collie > The Sled ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 18:21:13 -0500 From: Christian Bernhardt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Oil Weight for Driving Schools I would be very interested in hearing the various viewpoints re: recommended oil weight (synthetic) for driving schools. [Note: I recognize that the recommendation would depend on whether you're using petroleum or synthetic.] The reason I ask is that I used Redline 20W50 last year and I'm getting the car ready for this season (6-8 schools). I also had the opportunity to talk with the folks at Redline this winter to get their perspective on the best winter weight oil. [Since I live in a relatively mild winter climate (Cincinnati area), they recommended 10W40.] During our conversation, I also obtained their perspective about oil weight for driving schools. Since my engine is young (80K) and in good shape (doesn't lose any oil), they felt that I could stay with the 10W40 weight. They implied that it would cool better since it has a slightly lower viscosity. FYI -- I installed an oil temp guage last year and have never exceeded 250 deg F. in the 4 schools attended post-gauge. I apologize if this topic has been covered before. If it has, please send me private replies so as not to waste the entire list's time. Thanks! Chris '95 325is ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 18:34:04 -0500 From: "David Ellsworth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Brake rotor fits??? Does any body out there know what rotors would fit the front of a 318ti??? I am trying to find a good upgrade for the solid fronts. If anybody could supply the bolt circle diameter (5 bolt), the thickness and what would be the equivalent of offset of whatever rotors they have contact with. Rumor has it 740il and 750il rotors fit. Thanks up front for the effort. I will share my findings with anybody interested. Thanks, David and His Alaska Blau 96ti ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 18:34:12 -0500 From: "David Ellsworth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Brakes squealing like a stuck pig Does any body out there know what rotors would fit the front of a 318ti??? I am trying to find a good upgrade for the solid fronts. If anybody could supply the bolt circle diameter (5 bolt), the thickness and what would be the equivalent of offset of whatever rotors they have contact with. Rumor has it 740il and 750il rotors fit. Thanks up front for the effort. I will share my findings with anybody interested. Thanks, David and His Alaska Blau 96ti - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 7:37 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Brakes squealing like a stuck pig I assume your rear rotors were not replaced? They are probably worn a bit and are shaped like a dog-bowl in profile. This is totally normal. What may be happening is that your pads are contacting just at the edges where the rotor is thicker/curving up (not the lip). Solution to this is the chamfer your pads - use a file to grind off the corners a little. Good luck! - - Rob - ----- Original Message ----- From: Craig Lovold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Brakes squealing like a stuck pig > ARGH! This is sooo annoying ! I recently replaced the rear pads & rotors > on my '88 750iL. I coated the back of the pads with my trusty anti-squeal > compound. Next day the darn things are squealing like crazy. > Craig L. > '88 750iL ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 19:02:40 -0500 From: "Michael J. Greto" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: ACHTUNG... Don't believe anything in the British tabloids! Michael Greto BMW CCA Everglades Chapter '98 ///M Roadster Many former Bimmers ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 10:02:59 +1000 From: "Thomas, Andrew j" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] No, no, no, no, no, no, no (oh mamma mia, mamma mia...) I note the reports and rumours circulating regarding the sale of BMW to Ford by the Quandts. I also noted that one of the sources was the ever-unreliable Daily Mail, a virulently nationalistic and sensationalistic British rag that purports to report real news instead of the throwaway tat for which tabloids are usually known (sorry to any Daily Mail readers here but you've got to admit, their journalistic ethics are non-existent). There is no news that I could find about BMW selling to Ford. The UK papers are full of stories about disgruntled northeners fire-bombing BMW showrooms so anything to do with BMW will probably be front-page. A scouring of the London Times' website (a solidly respectable broadsheet that is known for actually checking its sources every now and again) had a minor piece about VW showing an interest in buying 20% of BMW, which knowing Peich's megalomaniac tendencies didn't surprise me in the slightest. I think it's fair to say that news reports following BMW carry little credibility these days, as rumour rise and die almost daily. If anything happens, we'll know about it when it happens, no sooner. Andy T "This email is intended only for the use of the individual or entity named above and may contain information that is confidential and privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email is strictly prohibited. When addressed to our clients, any opinions or advice contained in this email are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately by return email or telephone +61 2 9335 7000 and destroy the original message. Thank you." ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 18:12:40 -0600 From: moorer1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <FS> 5 E30 bottlecap wheels See at http://members.home.net/moorer1/BMWparts.html $200 + shipping Bob - -- Robert Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 16:28:25 -0800 From: Kendal Jackson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE:[uuc] (WOB) Posting F1 Results OK Joe, gotta ask. Why? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --------------------------------- Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 02:28:22 -0800 From: "Joe H. Harrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] (WOB) Posting F1 Results This is gonna get ugly, but I felt this needed to be said to everyone, not just the latest offender (see digest #507) DO NOT POST FORMULA 1 RESULTS TO THIS DIGEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And that includes qualifying or Fri morning warm-up times! To those who've posted this info in the past, I say FYYFF! I'm not even going to explain the glaringly obvious reason why this info shouldn't be posted ever. The next person who does it will get a nice email present from me. Pissed as hell, Joe - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ----------------------------------- Kendal Jackson See the The (not so) Great Willys Road Trip at http://nova.com/roadwillys/ "I am the Master of my own universe and I dance just as good as I want to" - --Jeffery from "The Jeffery"-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 19:38:56 -0500 From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <MISC> re:Pressure washers; summary [long] I asked for opinions on buying a $100-500 pressure washer for washing the cars.. the following is a quick summary with stuff snipped out to try to keep it short basically; - -a few people had the electric units (yellow Karcher etc) and thought they worked great although one guy had bad luck with the electric units - -a few people had gas ones and they certainly worked even better as pressure washers BUT most said to be *very* careful on the car (or even *don't* use pressure washers on the car) for fear of damaging paint, blasting crud into the seals, etc. A few people thought I was foolish for not washing my cars more often and for being so barbaric as to use pressure washer instead of TLC/by hand. thanks for the replies Chris Pawlowicz '89 325i - salt and slop encrusted '99 Chev Blazer - salt and mud encrusted (muddy from this weekend) '74 2002 - still hiding/ uh/ hibernating in the garage '94 325i - gathering dust in my driveway (owner is travelling) - --------------------------- > From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I'll try and answer your question first and then editorialize. Stay away > from anything electric, the only thing that will last and give you > decent pressure is a gas powered one. I started out with an electric > 1200 psi MucCulloch which didn't last much past a year. Replaced it with > an 1800psi 5hp Sears that has lasted 6 years and works great. I think > the sears cost me ~$300? > <editorial> > Don't wash your car with it. I bought mine primarily to use to get the > brake dust off wheels. I don't even use it for that now. I use it for > many things around the house but I treat my cars better than that. But > then as I get older I get even more anal about my cars. > <end editorial> - -------------------------------------- > From: "James Sheridan-Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > If it's the yellow, electric one, I own one myself and love it. Great > for > cleaning your driveway, washing your house (especially if it's got a wood > exterior), etc. I take it easy on the car with it, however. From a > distance > it does a good job of soaking the car quickly and getting off soap, but > I'm > hesitant to get near the car with it on full blast. ;) It's not a > substitute > for elbow grease for washing your car (or wheels), but it's real nice > nonetheless. > - ------------------------------------------------------- > From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > 4 months without a wash? Power washing should be kept to a minimum. You > don't want to drive that dirt and salt into bad places. Use a gentle > spray > overall and only power wash the areas you can see and don't aim at seals, > etc. I have a cheap power washer and it does fine for car cleaning. The > high pressure (3000 psi) types are way too strong for a car. Good for > concrete, though. > - ------------------------------------------------------- > From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I own a 5 hp Honda Pressure Washer rated at 2400 psi. I use it mainly > for > peeling paint off the deck and removing mildew/mold from the house > trim....cleaning the sludge off the gas BBQ....and spraying down the > commerical trucks I have (wazzat tell you about using it on your cars?) > > Actually though, if I have three of four vehicles in a row to wash, I'll > pull it out as it does make spraying easier, cleans the undercarriage > better, and uses less water than a handheld hose. You have to be careful > with these at higher pressures, especially if you use a rotary nozzle > instead of the adjustable fan spray. I can peel the undercoating off a > car > with the rotary nozzle attached and the throttle turned up all the way. > (Club Racers....there's your tool!) > > - - Duane Collie - ------------------------------------------------------- From: "Alarcon, Rob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I've got the 1300 psi Karcher (upright with wheels) unit that works > great. It comes with two different high pressure nozzles. One is like > the ones at the coin-op places, only "adjustable" from light spittle > spray to full blast. The other is an oscillating power washer nozzle > that I wouldn't recommend spraying a nice car with (it took the paint off > an old picnic table we have - good for cleaning decks too), although it's > good for the undercarriage. > - ---------------------------------------------------------- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > I bought one from Home Depot last year for $280 prox. with 2300 Lbs > pressure, > gas powered. It works very well but I would be very careful using any > type > under the hood or on painted surfaces. > Ben - -------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Phemister, George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >I got the Simonize - whatever - washer at Pneu Canada on sale. Seems to >work, but I wouldn't use it to wash the car - too strong. - ---------------------end pressure washer summary------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 19:44:29 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] CCA rebate <<[EMAIL PROTECTED] (John Hart) WHAT program? John>> This well kept secret is on p 39 of the March 2000 Roundel. I have not heard of any plans to discontinue the program in October. It runs to year end and there probably will be a new one then. Michel ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #510 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
