[uucdigest]           Monday, March 27 2000           Volume 03 : Number 516



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] I NEED HELP BIGTIME!!!!!
       Re: [uuc] <E30 & E28> ICV adjustment screw?
       [uuc] <E30> tire question
       [uuc] <E28> Sway bars
       Re: [uuc] Game officer
       [uuc] Need factory amp from a '90 535i
       [uuc] Overheating -91735iL
       [uuc] Race Tires for Sale
       Re: [uuc] <E30>M20 10:1 compression OR 2 head gaskets!!?
       [uuc] Replacing Fan Clutch on 1991 525i m50
       Re: [uuc] <E30> tire question
       [uuc] Re: Slotted Rotors Question
       [uuc] Rotors
       Re: [uuc] Overheating -91735iL
       [uuc] Porter Cable Polisher:  Where to Buy
       [uuc] Followup to Rental Car @ Drivers Schools

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 14:58:49 -0500
From: Eurowerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] I NEED HELP BIGTIME!!!!!

Manuel,

Have you tried using the broken off top half of the original bolt.  If you press
real hard and turn the bolt as if you were removing it, this should extract the
broken off piece.  I have done this with success on head bolts that were deeply
recessed as well as several other hard to extract bolts.  What you need to
realize is that there should be no pressure on the broken section, it is just
sitting there.  The only potential pressure is the o-ring on the bottom of the
threads.  Try this and let us know.....
I have another super-trick if this one does not work.

Manuel Paredes wrote:

> I broke the long bolt that goes through the oil filter cap through and into
> the oil housing and most of the threaded portion of the bolt is stuck inside
> the housing.  How can I get it out??  I don't know how I broke it.  I just
> tried taking it out to do an oil change and it broke.  Is there any easy way
> of taking it out??  By looking at the housing and my manual it looks like I
> will have to remove the whole casting.  Does anyone know of another way of
> retracting the part of the bolt that is stuck inside without having to
> remove the whole dam thing?  From what I can tell I will have to remove the
> alternator to get to some of the bolts that are on the side and  it looks
> lie a big job.  If there is no other way of doing this can you guys give me
> some tips on what I need to do.  I have already removed the air filter
> housing and the sensor.  I also removed one of the pulleys that is screwed
> into the same casting where the oil filter goes.  (That's one big ass
> casting!)  Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!!  Looks like
> I'll be having to take the taxi to work for a few days. :-(
>
> Manuel Paredes
> 95 325i (crippled!)
> L.A. BMWCCA
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

- --
Kirk A. Gilchrist
EURO-WERKS / Mercedes Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair
8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 606-745-0125
[EMAIL PROTECTED] / www.euromajic.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:19:01 -0800
From: "Chao, Harvey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30 & E28> ICV adjustment screw?

Dog-n-Hog <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> has some very good information about the ICV
and the pulse width modulated signal that drives it.  

I would add the following caution:

According to Bentley, the proper setting of the ICV adjustment screw is with
the engine at a base idle of 700-750 RPM (going from memory here) you adjust
the screw on the ICV so that an ammeter in series with the ICV shows a draw
of 400 ma +/- 10 ( again if memory serves correctly).

You may ask, why is he being so particular ?  Several posts in years gone by
have addressed failures in the Idle Control Module  (ICM) where a "post
mortem" revealed failures of or related to the output transistor that drives
the ICV.  The consistent failure related to the fact that the transistor has
no heat sink, and that there were what appeared to be failures due to
excessive heat from that transistor which translated to burned traces/failed
solder joints to the output transistor.  

My own experience is that changing the setting on the ICV adjustment screw
does indeed change both the idle and current draw.  If 400 ma is the design
state of the ICV current draw, I can foresee two sets of circumstances that
would lead to failure of the ICM:
*       You set the adjustment screw to try and play with the idle speed so
that the ICV draws excessive current that causes additional thermal stress
on the output transistor that gets conducted  down it's leads to the pcb to
which it is soldered
*       As the ICV gets worn and or gummed up with oil and dirt, it's
response to the pulse width modulated driving signal starts to lag.  This
causes the system to try and compensate and I can see that changing the
current draw of the ICV ( greater or lessor, I don't know, but if greater
- --- ).  As above, this increases thermal stress on the output transistor and
it's solder points and traces.

Since power can be calculated as being equal to the square of the current
times the resistance [a transistor in it's "on" state has a small internal
resistance - which in combination with the current being passed through the
device dissipates power in the form of heat, hence the "dissipation rating"
of a transistor] , a small change in the current draw of the ICV can have
significant heat dissipation effects in the driving transistor which is
passing/controlling that same current - without a heat sink. [example, the
power dissipation at the design state of 400 ma. is 0.4 x 0.4x R = 0.16R
watts.  If the power draw increases to 50% to 600 ma, then the power becomes
0.36R watts --  that is a 225% increase in power/heat dissipation! ] 


Harvey
 - I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off
and use a Mac. "  Author Unknown  
 - Dragged over to the "Dark Side" under duress  This day, Thursday, 9/16/99
- - A dark day indeed!
 - Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product.
          -- Ferenc Mantfeld

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 15:21:34 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> tire question

Gary Derian wrote

        A 225/45 is not (well, maybe 2 or 3 mm) wider than a 205/50.  It is
just
        measured on and designed for a wider rim, 7.5 compared to 6.5.  The
tread
        should be a bit wider and flatter.  It is also more sensitive to
camber.
        Generally, for strut suspension, it is better to use the 50 on the
front and
        the 45 on the rear.

I do not claim to be tire guru but isn't a 225/45 roughly 124 mm wide while
a 205/50 roughly 103 mm wide.  Therefore, the 225/45 tire is approximately
21mm wider which would explain the 7.5" rim versus the 6.5" rim?

I may be wrong but this is how I understood basic tire sizes.

YMMV.

Best regards,

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 14:36:34 -0600
From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Sway bars

Hello list,
Does anyone know if E28 M5 sway bars are a viable upgrade for a 535is? I
find myself in possession of both and inquiring minds want to know.  Thanks
for any help.
Paul Craven - 88 535 is

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 15:26:12 -0500
From: Eurowerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Game officer

Lee,

You are absolutely correct.  Game officers, game wardens, Dept. of Fish and
Wildlife, whatever they are called in your state, have more authority and powers of
arrest than a sheriff, police officer, or even state police officer.  Think about
it, they have no jurisdictional limits to contend with.  The state line is their
limit.   A police officer cannot cite you for fishing, hunting etc. whereas a Game
officer can, as well as speeding etc.  They do not cite for speeding unless you are
a moron and pass one of these fine officers at warp9.  Don't ever take a game
officer for granted, they can do more damage than a normal officer if you are asking
for it!!!

Lee Leslie wrote:

> >From what I understand Game officers are actually Game Wardens & since they are
> Federal rather than state, they can do what ever they want..
>
> But I could be wrong...
>
> Lee

- --
Kirk A. Gilchrist
EURO-WERKS / Mercedes Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair
8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 606-745-0125
[EMAIL PROTECTED] / www.euromajic.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 15:55:39 -0600
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Need factory amp from a '90 535i

Gentle, digesters.

Looking for a working/broken factory amplifier from a '90ish 535i.  This is
part of the premium package with the Pioneer head unit and CD changer and
ten speakers.  The amplifier has two AMP 12 pin connectors -- one black and
one white.  Gonna attempt to remove the connectors and reuse 'em to connect
an aftermarket amplifier.  Will pay shipping.  Wouldn't have to try this
kluge except that BMW won't allow AMP to just sell me the damn connectors.
Anybody got an alternate source for these? 

Robert Blakeney
Houston

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 16:06:17 -0600
From: D Chrisman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Overheating -91735iL

Help requested in diagnosing overheat problem---air pocket forming over
1 week period--can be bled off at thermostat housing or resevoir cap.
No loss of coolant and once cleared it takes about a week to reoccur.
System holds pressure in fact I guess that is the problem.  At first
I thought it was thermostat but no this is gaseous accumulation to the 
extent that the hoses are all pressured--new water pump, thermostat.
Where do you look next? 

Dan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 13:13:38 -0800
From: "Bradley J. Otoupalik" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Race Tires for Sale

Hey guys and gals,

we have some race tires for sale, new, unused, that if you all do not want, 
will go back to Tire Rack.

1.  Yoko 032R 225/50-15, NEW, MSRP 139 each, will sell for $132 plus 
shipping from SoCal.

2.  Kumho V700 245/45-17, NEW, HEAT CYCLED, MSRP 150 each, will sell for 
$145 plus shipping form SoCal.

Thanks

Brad.
Bradley J. Otoupalik

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:15:08 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30>M20 10:1 compression OR 2 head gaskets!!?

>When building your own engine, make sure you check everything yourself.
>Piston to head clearance should be about 1 mm (0.040 inch)  to prevent
>contact.  Too much clearance impairs combustion by reducing turbulence.

>I see no reason why you can't run 10:1 compression with premium fuel and
>careful spark and fuel programming.

Yea, me neither.  My 2.8 M20 is running at ~ 10.2-10.3 cr, and it works
      marvelously!       Murf


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 14:24:58 -0800 (PST)
From: David Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Replacing Fan Clutch on 1991 525i m50

Greetings,

I'm about to replace my fan clutch on my 1991
525i m50.  Bought the part from Steve D (plug
plug) along with a 32mm open end wrench.

I've check the Bentley book..looks straight
forward although it does mention a special BMW
tool to hold it in place as you WHACK it.  Does
anyone have a tip or two before I do this without
the special tool?

Thanks,
David Moore
1991 525i

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:29:41 -0500
From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> tire question

> Gary Derian wrote
> A 225/45 is not (well, maybe 2 or 3 mm) wider than a 205/50.
> It is just measured on and designed for a wider rim, 7.5
>compared to 6.5.  The tread should be a bit wider and flatter.
> It is also more sensitive to camber. Generally, for strut
>suspension, it is better to use the 50 on the front and the 45
>on the rear.

 Then Rich Dorffer spoke:
> I do not claim to be tire guru but isn't a 225/45 roughly
>124 mm wide while a 205/50 roughly 103 mm wide.
>Therefore, the 225/45 tire is approximately
> 21mm wider which would explain the 7.5" rim versus
>the 6.5" rim?

HuH? Unless I'm totally confused, 225 vs 205 represents the nominal
width of the tire at the side wall. Nominal being the operative word, as
tire manufacturers round these numbers in bizarre ways. How much tread
is actually on the ground varies also but usually is related to the
sidewall width measurement. A 225 tire is usually about 20 mm wider than
a 205 tire at the sidewall and at the tread. The 45 vs 50 of the second
number is the height of the tire as a percentage of the width. A 225/45
is roughly 225 mm at the sidewall slightly less at the tread and
101.25mm measured sidewall height. 205/50 is roughly 205mm at the
sidewall width slightly less at the tread and 102.5mm measured sidewall
height.

www.tirerack.com has some good explanations and drawings of how all this
works.

Bill Matthews - Maybe I didn't understand the question?
Hockessin DE
00 M Geeze
some Volvos

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:35:34 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re: Slotted Rotors Question

In a message dated 3/27/00 9:07:14 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< Those rotors with the slots in them; useful? Gimmicky? >>
I bought them because I thought (but don't know for certain) that they might 
be a higher quality rotor then some generic make. I do know for the kind of 
driving most of us do (i.e., driving schools, etc.) the more mass in the 
rotor the better for heat dissipation. But the difference in price was only 
$2 so I figured why not buy the gimmick ATE's
At the time I did not know that suppliers advertising on this digest carried 
Baylos which I would have bought without hesitation based on previous 
experience with this aftermarket supplier. I ground down many pads on my 
Baylos before I had to replace them after over 150,000 miles.
I would never buy cross-drilled rotors and I probably shouldn't have bought 
the slotted ones but I knew I was going to sell the car and they did look 
kind of trick. I figured the new owner would never know or care about the 
truth of slotted rotors (less mass).
Fred Callender RMC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:46:59 -0500
From: "Henry Caldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Rotors

<<Those rotors with the slots in them; useful? Gimmicky? >>

I replaced my stock rotors with ATE gas slotted rotors 2 years ago. No more
warping problems and very happy with their performance; even at driving
school. My replacement will be ATE gas slotted.
Henry
'92 325i

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:48:42 -0500
From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Overheating -91735iL

Dan,

The next step is to check the head gasket.  Some shops have a device that
detects CO in the radiator with a liquid that bubbles and changes colors.
Perhaps one could take advantage of that trapped pressure to see if it's CO.

Geeeze
http://patdonahue.com/forsale

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "D Chrisman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Help requested in diagnosing overheat problem---air pocket forming over
> 1 week period--can be bled off at thermostat housing or resevoir cap.
> No loss of coolant and once cleared it takes about a week to reoccur.
> System holds pressure in fact I guess that is the problem.  At first
> I thought it was thermostat but no this is gaseous accumulation to the
> extent that the hoses are all pressured--new water pump, thermostat.
> Where do you look next?
>
> Dan
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:19:42 -0500
From: "Duane Collie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Porter Cable Polisher:  Where to Buy

Some of you have been wanting to know where to buy the # 7424 Porter Cable
Auto Polisher for way less than Griot's Garage.  Here's one spot you can get
one for $ 106.00 + shipping.  Be sure to order a few spare pads as they're
hard to find.....

http://tools.bsd1.yourhost.com/product91.html

Damn nice tool.

- - Duane Collie
The Sled

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 18:12:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Brian  Sanniola <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Followup to Rental Car @ Drivers Schools

Just a quick note to personally thank those of you who gave me 
advice, suggestions, and tips to accomplishing this driving school event in a rental 
car.

It would have been ideal to rent a BMW for the event, but 
the daily rate for a 328i was more than a 3 day rental in a 
Neon.   Go Dodge Go! :D

Thanks again!
~ Brian
97 Dinan 328iC
BMWCCA 151378
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------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #516
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