[uucdigest] Monday, March 27 2000 Volume 03 : Number 517 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Iso Propyl Alky Re: [uuc] Iso Propyl Alky Re: [uuc] Re: Slotted Rotors Question RE: [uuc] Visiting Germany [uuc] Button in Points [uuc] I NEED HELP BIGTIME Re: [uuc] Slotted rotors question Re: [uuc] 525iT vinyl seats? [uuc] RE: <WOB> Speeding, Valentine & Arrogance Re: [uuc] RE: <WOB> Speeding, Valentine & Arrogance Re: [uuc] I NEED HELP BIGTIME!!!!! RE: [uuc] CD Troubles [uuc] <all> Orange Sanford(?) marker for gauges Re: [uuc] <E28> Sway bars ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 16:09:29 -0700 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Iso Propyl Alky Mark, Iso propyl is perfectly fine, it is the primary consituent of the water binding additives in Heet. Use electronic grade if you can get it. Or just buy a known brand. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 15:27:16 -0800 From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Iso Propyl Alky Ummmm. The definitive thing to look for is that medical grade means 99.9% pure Isopropyl alcohol. Rubbing alcohol will typically contain 30% or so by volume of pure tap water. Not a good thing. Don't trust the wording on the labels, read the ingredients label. Jim KKiely wrote: > > Mark, > > Iso propyl is perfectly fine, it is the primary consituent of the water binding > additives in Heet. > > Use electronic grade if you can get it. Or just buy a known brand. > > -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 18:35:13 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Slotted Rotors Question [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I bought them because I thought (but don't know for certain) that > they might be a higher quality rotor then some generic make. I do > know for the kind of driving most of us do (i.e., driving schools, > etc.) the more mass in the rotor the better for heat dissipation. I would have thought the more *surface area*, the better heat dissipation. That's the idea behind cross drilled, no? In any case, in all instances [so far] but Jefram's, people have had good luck with them. - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 09:48:18 +1000 From: "Thomas, Andrew j" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Visiting Germany George ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) writes about a visit to Germany: > A visit to the Nurburgring would be at the top of my list Likewise. I don't think I'd have the nerve to hack around that course at top speed. There was an article in a recent UK classic car mag about a guy who took one of the "Batmobile" coupes (the early '70s homologation special) to the 'Ring for a quick fang, as they say. Fabulous stuff, although the writer's nervousness was probably exacerbated by the fact that it wasn't his car, there's only 39 of them in the world, and it was being sold for 35,000 quid. I did have a blast around the Bathurst racetrack in New South Wales last weekend, though. For those that know it, I thought the non-race posted speed limit (it's a public road) of 60 km/h was quite fast enough on that downhill, off-camber, greasy hairpin bit at the back. I can't believe they actually throw 16ft-long V8 production cars around that track - new-found respect is due, certainly. Andy T "This email is intended only for the use of the individual or entity named above and may contain information that is confidential and privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email is strictly prohibited. When addressed to our clients, any opinions or advice contained in this email are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately by return email or telephone +61 2 9335 7000 and destroy the original message. Thank you." ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 16:22:15 -0800 (PST) From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Button in Points Coulthard was disqualified which puts both Williams/BMW drivers in the points. I don't think even Williams would have put money on these results in the first two races. Kevin Kelly '91 M5 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 16:25:51 PST From: "Manuel Paredes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] I NEED HELP BIGTIME I have tried this with no success. What's your other plan?? Manuel Paredes >Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 14:58:49 -0500 >From: Eurowerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [uuc] I NEED HELP BIGTIME!!!!! >Manuel, >Have you tried using the broken off top half of the original bolt. >If you >press real hard and turn the bolt as if you were removing it, >this should >extract the broken off piece. I have done this with >success on head bolts >that were deeply recessed as well as several >other hard to extract bolts. >What you need to realize is that there >should be no pressure on the broken >section, it is just sitting >there. The only potential pressure is the >o-ring on the bottom of >the threads. Try this and let us know.... >I have another super-trick if this one does not work. Manuel Paredes wrote: >I broke the long bolt that goes through the oil filter cap through and into >the oil housing and most of the threaded portion of the bolt is stuck >inside >the housing. How can I get it out?? I don't know how I broke it. I just >tried taking it out to do an oil change and it broke. Is there any easy >way >of taking it out?? By looking at the housing and my manual it looks like I >will have to remove the whole casting. Does anyone know of another way of >retracting the part of the bolt that is stuck inside without having to >remove the whole dam thing? From what I can tell I will have to remove the >alternator to get to some of the bolts that are on the side and it looks >lie a big job. If there is no other way of doing this can you guys give me >some tips on what I need to do. I have already removed the air filter >housing and the sensor. I also removed one of the pulleys that is screwed >into the same casting where the oil filter goes. (That's one big ass >casting!) Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!! Looks like >I'll be having to take the taxi to work for a few days. :-(>> Manuel >Paredes >95 325i (crippled!)> L.A. BMWCCA ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 08:29:43 SGT From: "Eugene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Slotted rotors question I had the ATE rotors on my GTI VR6 before. I upgraded only the rotors at the time so I had the opportunity to do a comparison test with the rotors being the only difference. Fade resistance was better, allowing me to complete one or two more hot laps at the track before the brakes started fading noticeably. For some reason, the brake pedal also felt firmer but I attributed this more to the new rotor thickness. Eugene Oh '99 BMW 328i Step >From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] Slotted rotors question >Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 08:13:58 -0500 (EST) > >Those rotors with the slots in them; useful? Gimmicky? (I'm talking >specifically about the ones with the one continuous slot in them in >the shape of rounded out 5 pointed star, though opinions on any of >them are welcome.) > >-- >Just Moe >'95 540 6 speed, BL/SS >BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:26:54 -0500 From: Phil Marx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] 525iT vinyl seats? Kip Peterson asked: >I'm considering purchasing a 1994 525iT which has vinyl seats (I didn't >know vinyl was offered on such a car!). Does anyone have any experience >or opinions on this material? Does it hold up OK? Does it look OK? My recollection is that leatherette was only available on the '95 models, and you also did not get the on-board computer, wood trim, gatherered leather door panels, cross-spoke wheels, sunroof, or keyless entry/alarm system. These missing options were included in the Premium Package for '95. Since the Premium Package was introduced in mid-year '94 , I think the only additions on the wagon in that model year were the leather covered door armrests and the keyless entry/alarm system. '94 was also the first year the sunroof was not standard on the US wagons. Maybe yours is a Euro or Military delivery car? Or actually a '95? Or maybe I just don't remember correctly. For sure, I would never have ordered any that way for inventory back then. I'm guessing from your questions that you've not seen it yet, maybe it is leather. The vinyl is, well, vinyl. It has that fake perforated look and longitudinal pleats on the back and bottom cushions which offer a look quite a bit less luxurious than the leather interior. The vinyl is hot to the touch in warm weather and also has a smell like someone left a McD hamburger under the seat for a bit too long. It is also considered by most dealers to be death on the used market in a BMW so expect to pay thousands less for a non-leather car and consider it a good deal if you have no problem with the rest. - -Phil Marx BMW CCA #6021 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 16:34:46 -0800 From: Dragos Avadanei <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: <WOB> Speeding, Valentine & Arrogance I am sorry - I know this is an old post but i couldn't help myself.. > Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 08:09:57 -0500 > From: "Michael S. Radcliffe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] <WOB> Speeding, Valentine & Arrogance > I find (today) that I need a Valentine 1. > Then I give them my pet rules to speed: > > 2 Never more than 9 miles over the limit > 3 If you can't abide by Rule 2 then NEVER EVER be the leader; duck > behind other fast traffic but don't hang yourself out in the fast lane > with nothing but radar pulses in front of you. Sir, will all due respect, i think 9 miles per hour exceeding the limit won't ever be speeding except in the law enforcement and in the elder percentage of the population opinions.. unless, of course, you are driving on a private race track where the owner has set a flegmatic/nonchalant 190mph speed limit. nurburgring or some (any) german autobahn might also be a good resource to instrument your case. after all, going 9mph faster than no limit is pretty quick. as concerning rule #3 - i really like that too : usually people drive respecting your #2, so that really doesn't count. if one ducks behind someone else who is speeding with no knowledge of the limit + 9 rule, then it's most likely the law enforcement operatives will stop both of the culprits.. for racing, mind you.. i really hope you don't get it personal (just my 02 cents) and i want to assure you of my true compassion for your misfortune of being apprehended on speeding matters. yours truly, dragos speeding 110 on a 60 (just couldn't do 120, damn it) road being reported to the cops by a cell-carrying eclipse driver (the guy was just green with envy i passed him >-) ) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:50:13 -0500 From: "Dean Boucouras" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: <WOB> Speeding, Valentine & Arrogance Dragos, Did the cop tell you about the cell phone call? I am somewhat curious. Thanks, Dean ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:49:46 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] I NEED HELP BIGTIME!!!!! In a message dated 3/27/00 3:09:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << Have you tried using the broken off top half of the original bolt. If you press real hard and turn the bolt as if you were removing it, this should extract the broken off piece. >> /////////////////// Just a thought...but could something like that moldable steel be used that you see in every auto parts store as a way to "glue" the two pieces together and attempt to back the bolt out once the steel has cured (which is something like 10 minutes)? Ken ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 20:15:47 -0500 From: "Heckendorf, David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] CD Troubles Alan, Try the following: Take a non-embossed credit card (like a driver's license or Blockbuster Video card) and slide it under the cartridge (between the cartridge and the bay of the Changer) lengthwise, centered right to left. Once it's ~half way in, you feel some mild resistance which you just push through and this will release the cartridge. Empty the cartridge of all CD's and take an inventory (are all 6, or however many you had loaded, in the cartridge?). If any are missing, re-insert the _EMPTY_ cartridge into the Changer and let the changer return the CD to any open slot and re-inventory. Now to clear the error. Change the Radio function to FM (anything other than CD). With the Radio _OFF_, unplug the Changer's two cables (power and data). Turn the Radio back on and press the CD button, it won't see a CD changer and thus won't display the error, change the Radio function back to FM (or whatever). Turn the Radio back off and re-connect the changer. Insert the cartridge with _ONE_ CD in the disc 1 position. Turn the Radio back on and then press the CD button, should be "voila!", if not, bigger problems loom... See either an Alpine dealer or your BMW "Retailer" for further assistance. If this problem persists, either have your dealer replace it under warranty (if applicable) or have it serviced by Alpine. Regards, Dave - -----Original Message----- Date: 25 Mar 2000 14:18:46 -0800 From: Alan Bruner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] CD Troubles Hello, I'm a new subscriber, and this is my first time to post. Thank you for creating this forum for the exchange of ideas and information. Here is my first question: I have a trunk mounted Alpine CD player (P/N 88 88 1 600 249/250)in my '92 325i. I was changing some of the CD's and must have put one in backwards or upsidedown or something, because I got an error message - "disc error" - on the radio's display. No big deal, I'll just walk around back and straighten things out. WHAT??? Now the magazine that holds all six discs won't eject. And I don't have a radio manual to explain how to get myself out of this mess. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance for your replies. Alan Bruner Omaha, NE [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 20:17:19 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <all> Orange Sanford(?) marker for gauges I installed the VDO gauges in the former sunglass holder of my e-36 M3 and did NOT use the red bulb covers as they seemed to make the color too red. I had heard that an orange Sanford (not sure of the name) marker will get the color pretty close. After driving around to a few art supply stores I could not come up with a Sanford marker so I tried another brand's permanent orange marker. In the end, it is too light even after a number of coats. So, if anyone has one of these markers, I would love to borrow it or buy it off you. Please e-mail me off line of interested. Also, if anyone had any luck with cutting little holes in the red bulb cover, please let me know. Where and how much do you cut? A picture might help. I already trashed one, so I will need to find a replacement if I go this route. Thanks, Vince 99 M3 *******************Internet Email Confidentiality Footer******************* Privileged/Confidential Information may be contained in this message. If you are not the addressee indicated in this message (or responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy or deliver this message to anyone. In such case, you should destroy this message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise immediately if you or your employer do not consent to Internet email for messages of this kind. Opinions, conclusions and other information in this message that do not relate to the official business of my firm shall be understood as neither given nor endorsed by it. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:45:04 -0500 From: "Curt Kiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> Sway bars Paul Craven writes: >Does anyone know if E28 M5 sway bars are a viable upgrade for a 535is? I >find myself in possession of both and inquiring minds want to know. Thanks >for any help. You should know better than that Paul. Just the ///M5 badge alone will add 25 hp to your 535is! Imagine what a real steel part from a M5 will do to your car. ;-) Curt Kiser BMW CCA Tidewater Virginia 88' M5 Sharked and tweaked 86' 325 Wifemobile ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #517 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
