[uucdigest]           Monday, March 27 2000           Volume 03 : Number 518



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] RE:<E36> locking
       [uuc] re:Roll Bar High Impact Foam
       [uuc] cross drilled rotors
       [uuc] Certification.  Reply to Old Post.
       Re: [uuc] <all> Orange Sanford(?) marker for gauges
       Re: [uuc] E36 Alignment specs needed
       Re: [uuc] <E30> tire question
       Re: [uuc] Re: Slotted Rotors Question
       Re: [uuc] <E28> 528e tire question
       Re: [uuc] re:Roll Bar High Impact Foam
       [uuc] comin' in on a wing and a prayer
       [uuc] Transmission oil cooler for auto trans - necessary?
       [uuc] Recommended reading ....on BMW 
       [uuc] right hand drive passenger seatbelts?

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Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:25:50 -0800
From: Dragos Avadanei <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE:<E36> locking

(yeah, i know, another late reply - i'm catching up though..)

owner manuals should have this written somewhere and usually that's the last
resource in the process (you know, when all else fails, rtfm).

my 93 e34 has it, apparently all 94-onward e34 have it. 
key closes windows and sunroof, provided the sunroof is opened in the
sliding mode. tilt-opened sunroofs are not closed with the key.

hope this helps (probably not)

dragos

> Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 16:59:14 -0500
> From: "George, Zachariah (CICG Development)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] RE:<E36> Locking
> 
> Ditto for my 7/94 325i...
> :( Sure wish it did though. 
> 
> Do ANY 1994-models have key-closing sunroof at all?
> Windows, sure. Sunroof no.
> 
> > My 3/94 325is doesn't have this feature either.
> > HTH,
> > Matt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 20:45:20 -0500
From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] re:Roll Bar High Impact Foam

Peter sez
>  I'm trying to locate a source for high impact roll bar foam.  The
> catch is 
> I'd like it to match the grey interior of my car (E36M3).

try a place which sells stuff for refrigeration / cooling pipes ( like
for cooling buildings and stuff)

grey and black foam padding from those guys is way cheaper than 'roll
bar' padding, and just happens to come in the colour you're looking for


chris pawlowicz
'89 325i
'74 2002

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 20:01:13 EST
From: "mike S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] cross drilled rotors

Hello List
    I have noticed a lot of talk regarding cross drilled rotors and I would 
like to add my 2 cents...I have had Brembo cross drilled rotors on my car fo 
3 years now and not one problem at all and I might add that I have been 
known to strech the speed limit a little from time to time,so I don't 
understand why everone else is so negitive towars them...like I said just my 
2 cents....Mike....                                                          
                                                                             
                                                                             
                                                                             
                                                                             
                                                         << Those rotors 
with the slots in them; useful? Gimmicky? >>
I bought them because I thought (but don't know for certain) that they might
be a higher quality rotor then some generic make. I do know for the kind of
driving most of us do (i.e., driving schools, etc.) the more mass in the
rotor the better for heat dissipation. But the difference in price was only
$2 so I figured why not buy the gimmick ATE's
At the time I did not know that suppliers advertising on this digest carried
Baylos which I would have bought without hesitation based on previous
experience with this aftermarket supplier. I ground down many pads on my
Baylos before I had to replace them after over 150,000 miles.
I would never buy cross-drilled rotors and I probably shouldn't have bought
the slotted ones but I knew I was going to sell the car and they did look
kind of trick. I figured the new owner would never know or care about the
truth of slotted rotors (less mass).
Fred Callender RMC



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 20:43:46 -0500
From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Certification.  Reply to Old Post.

Don:

I'll answer where I can:

"So - if we guess $1 mil for engine/tranny - does this certification carry if the 
engine tranny is used in multiple models - or does it have to be re-certified say due 
to things like different exhausts or intake layouts?"

The certifications - emissions, etc. - carries.  You do not have to certify it for 
each body style.  Different exhaust and intake layouts, usually avoided, have to be 
re-certified for passby noise.

"Then the safety testing - obviously per model I'd think, but does this also have to 
cover different engines (ie - different crash zones for diff configurations?)"

Once again, the body carries.  This is the reason the VW guys developed the VR6.  They 
did not want to rearrange the body panels/rails since that would have required recert 
for crash so they made a 15 degree V instead of the 60 degree and fit it in the body.

"What I'm trying to figure out - what does certification cost per car when BMW onlys 
make a limited number of them?"

I'll look into this for clarificaiton, but the 1-2 million figure Ben puts out is what 
I've heard as an average by the time you get things done.  Of course, you could come 
up with any number of odd combinations, but that is the average.

"You said: "its harder to justify large expenditures against small volume variants" - 
which is why I think a lot of us fear takeover of BMW by a company like Ford.. they 
just wouldn't get it that small volume variants are part of what makes BMW - BWM.  Too 
much bottom line and too little passion.. (has Ford made a car for 'passion' since the 
first Mustang? I can't think of one..)"

I've resisted the temptation to comment on this merger stuff, but I'll add two things:

1. Ford makes loss/low profit making models to boost image.  So does BMW.  Image 
controls profit to an extent.  Eventually.
2. The injection of more money into BMW would give it the funding required to develop 
more models and more motors.  Remember how SAAB always claimed their I-4 turbo was as 
good as any V-6 and then made a V-6 the minute GM took over and the money poured in?  
I've heard quite a few good things about their V-6.

Neil Deshpande
1988 325 iS
1989 325 iC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:51:29 -0800
From: Dog-n-Hog <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <all> Orange Sanford(?) marker for gauges

Vincent:

You can contact United Speedometer (sorry, I don't know the
web address).  They used to sell lamp "rubbers" in various
colors (including orange, red, blue, etc.) and sizes to fit most
bulbs out there.  I used them to changeover lighting in a
chevy truck from green (how awful) to orange.

The "rubber" brand was called "Illumirit".  They came in packs
of six.  United's phone number is 1-800-877-4798

GL,
Norm

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> I installed the VDO gauges in the former sunglass holder of my e-36 M3 and did
> NOT use the red bulb covers as they seemed to make the color too red.  I had
> heard that an orange Sanford (not sure of the name) marker will get the color
> pretty close.  After driving around to a few art supply stores I could not come
> up with a Sanford marker so I tried another brand's permanent orange marker.  In
> the end, it is too light even after a number of coats.
> 
> So, if anyone has one of these markers, I would love to borrow it or buy it off
> you.  Please e-mail me off line of interested.
> 
> Also, if anyone had any luck with cutting little holes in the red bulb cover,
> please let me know.  Where and how much do you cut?  A picture might help.  I
> already trashed one, so I will need to find a replacement if I go this route.
> 
> Thanks,
> Vince
> 99 M3
> 
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 20:20:56 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Alignment specs needed

Negative caster reduces the need for toe-in because the tires tend to roll
in a cone, but the standard setting is already very small.  Try zero.  If
the car wanders a bit, add a little toe-in.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> It's time for my 94 325 to get an alignment, but I'm not sure if I have
the
> right specs. Car is currently running a 95 M3 suspension with 97 M3 strut
> mounts swapped left to right for additonal negative camber. These are the
> numbers I had planned on using:
>
> Front toe: zero - 1/16" in, total (0.00 - 0.12 degree)
>
> Rear camber: 0.8 - 1.0 degree negative, per side
>
> Rear toe: 1/16" - 1/8" in, total (0.12 - 0.24 degree)
>
> But are they still correct with the front camber change?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt M
> 94 "325 tds" just back from major surgery, web page will be up shortly!
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 20:43:05 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> tire question

Rich, Bill and others.  The width of a tire depends on the width of the rim
it is mounted on.  For every inch change in rim width, the tire section
width changes 0.4 inch.  50 series and taller tires are theoretically
mounted on a rim that is 70% of the section width.  45 and lower tires are
mounted on a rim that is 85% of the section width.  When comparing two
tires, if one is a 50 and the other is a 45, you have to allow for this
difference.

A 205/50 is 205 mm (8.07 inch) wide when mounted on a 5.65 inch rim.  The
measuring rim is 5.5 inches (measuring rims are adjusted to the nearest 1/2
inch) and the tire, when adjusted for the 0.15 inch rim change, measures
8.01 inches.  When mounted on a 7.5 inch rim, the 205/50 measures 8.81
inches.

A 225/45 is measured on a 7.53 inch rim and measures 8.86 on it and 8.85
when adjusted for the 7.5 inch rim.  You can see that it is only 0.04 inches
wider than the 205/50 when both are mounted on a 7.5 inch rim.

Because the 225/45 is designed for a wider rim, the tire manufacturers
typically mold a wider and flatter tread than the 205/50, but the sidewall
to sidewall distance is virtually the same.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>  Then Rich Dorffer spoke:
> > I do not claim to be tire guru but isn't a 225/45 roughly
> >124 mm wide while a 205/50 roughly 103 mm wide.
> >Therefore, the 225/45 tire is approximately
> > 21mm wider which would explain the 7.5" rim versus
> >the 6.5" rim?

>Then Bill Matthews wrote:
> HuH? Unless I'm totally confused, 225 vs 205 represents the nominal
> width of the tire at the side wall. Nominal being the operative word, as
> tire manufacturers round these numbers in bizarre ways. How much tread
> is actually on the ground varies also but usually is related to the
> sidewall width measurement. A 225 tire is usually about 20 mm wider than
> a 205 tire at the sidewall and at the tread. The 45 vs 50 of the second
> number is the height of the tire as a percentage of the width. A 225/45
> is roughly 225 mm at the sidewall slightly less at the tread and
> 101.25mm measured sidewall height. 205/50 is roughly 205mm at the
> sidewall width slightly less at the tread and 102.5mm measured sidewall
> height.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:19:33 -0500
From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Slotted Rotors Question

From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> I would have thought the more *surface area*, the better heat
> dissipation. That's the idea behind cross drilled, no?
>
I thought (there I go again) that the whole reason for cross drilled or
slotted was to allow for the escape of gas that can be generated by the
pad material under extreme braking conditions and cause the pad to
"float" off the rotor contributing to brake fade. ???

Bill Matthews
Hockessin DE
00 M Geeze
some Volvos

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:32:17 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> 528e tire question

You will not find a really high performance tire in 70 series these days.
Even cushy family sedans like Chevy Impala and Ford Taurus have 60 series 16
inch tires.  Notice its backordered/special order?

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> It's about time for new tires. I'm sticking with the stock 14" rims. I'm
> inclined to also stick with the stock 195/70 (and obviously R14) size. A
> previous owner fitted it with a set of Michelin X Ones, and they're nice
> enough tires, but they dry rotted before they wore out! I was hoping to
fit
> something a little more sporty, but sporty tires don't seem very prevalent
in
> 195/70 14. Go figure. ;)
>
> Does anyone have experience with this tire?
>
> http://www.tirerack.com/tires/conti/co_chv90.htm
>
> It's the only H rated summer tire I've been able to find in this size. Too
bad
> too, as I was hoping to fit a set of Bridgestone RE71s...
>
> Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:25:10 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] re:Roll Bar High Impact Foam

Roll bar padding is specially designed to absorb energy when hit.
Insulation is not designed for this purpose and may cause your helmet to
bounce off the bar.  This will double the G load on your brain.  Not a good
idea.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Peter sez
> >  I'm trying to locate a source for high impact roll bar foam.  The
> > catch is
> > I'd like it to match the grey interior of my car (E36M3).
>
> try a place which sells stuff for refrigeration / cooling pipes ( like
> for cooling buildings and stuff)
>
> grey and black foam padding from those guys is way cheaper than 'roll
> bar' padding, and just happens to come in the colour you're looking for
>
>
> chris pawlowicz
> '89 325i
> '74 2002

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 18:36:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Walrod <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] comin' in on a wing and a prayer

I posted a day ago that I couldn't keep the transmission in fifth after finding the 
sheetmetal console was floppy loose and bolting it back down.  I have parts coming in 
on the UPS truck tomorrow but suspect that Gary Derian is correct and that I have a 
bent fifth gear selector fork and that these parts won't fix it.  However:

As an old VW mech who has driven farther and longer than you might suspect with a 
bungie cord holding the shifter back into fourth (shifting was not a casual affair) I 
am not without my ways.  By dint of 3/16" of shim between the isolator blocks and the 
transmission I am now able to keep it in all five gears.  Granted, second and fourth 
gear selections end up with the shiftknob back by my hip....  But we are off to the 
Oriental rug confrence in San Francisco.

If you should happen to see a black '83 533i rolling South from Oregon tomorrow and 
early Wednesday give a wave - I'll be the one fantasizing that my Fokker is held 
together with chewing gum and willpower.  If I don't make it - I salute you!

(thanks Gary)

Tom

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Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:45:45 SGT
From: "Eugene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Transmission oil cooler for auto trans - necessary?

Hey everyone,

I was wondering if I should have an oil cooler for the Steptronic 
transmission on my E46 328i installed since I attend track events every 
month.

I'm guessing that by the very nature of their design auto transmissions 
produce more heat and I'm worried that this might lead to premature failure 
if I'm redlining my car for prolonged periods of time on a regular basis.

I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on this and a pointer to any resources 
that might be available.

TIA,

Eugene
'99 BMW 328i Step
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Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:49:35 -0000
From: "BMW Bits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Recommended reading ....on BMW 

Warning ..this is NOT a 'pretty pictures' book, it is serious reading ....

BMW Story ..A Company in it's time   by H Monnich ...on sale at
www.Chaters.co.UK  in UK for 5.99 pounds sterling (was 25 pounds =$40 US ).
Heavy-duty reading material about the company from its founding up til 1990
.Pictures of Emperors , Fuhrers and factories NOT cars .

While there look at other books Chaters have on BMW ..some interesting
titles that 'seem' to hint at maintenance manuals but give NO content
description.Also 'Driving Ambition'..'the official inside story of the
McLaren F1 for 30 quid for those of you who cant seem to 'scratch ' a cool
$1M for the real thing. Watch those 4pounds and up shipping costs tho'!!

Neat Xmas prezzies ..think ahead !!

Bill Proud ,in cool WET Seattle ..now with the King-HOLE where the KingDOME
used to was...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:11:51 -0500
From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] right hand drive passenger seatbelts?

I like how the seatbelt locks for the passenger's side.

Then I was thinking [no wise cracks].
I'd like to have the same mechanism on the driver's side but I'm sure the
left and right side reels are different.

Since my American spec car does not have locking reel on the driver's side.

What about one from an E36 that is right hand drive?
That should work, shouldn't it?
Would there be pyro involved in swapping them?

...steven


mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]              http://318ti.org
Germantown, MD  ---> Dealer Service comments http://www.servicecounts.net
1998 318ti Arrest Me Red Sport 'FUN2DRV'      National Capital Chapta
w/ open air roof, armrest, lower lip, rear spoiler, Z3 spiral antenna
vented front rotors, kevlar ss brakelines, xbrace, braless, paint chips
Z3 1.9 shift lever w/ lighted knob and euro-intermittent wiper module
My memory is so bad that I get lost on a skid pad. (c) 1999

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #518
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