[uucdigest]          Tuesday, March 28 2000          Volume 03 : Number 522



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Rubber Thread Should Go
       [uuc] This rotor thread
       [uuc] BMW/Williams or Williams/BMW??
       Re: [uuc] "Friction Relign"?  What is this?
       [uuc] Injector Information (FAQ)
       [uuc] RE: Replacing Fan Clutch on 1991 525i m50
       [uuc] Mysterious rubber thread
       [uuc] The new ML55 AMG
       [uuc] E28 M5 shop visit....opinions?
       [uuc] RE: Certification.  Reply to Old Post.
       [uuc] Re:Roll Bar High Impact Foam (longish summary)
       [uuc] testing wheel trueness

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:04:55 -0500
From: dstevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Rubber Thread Should Go

Hi

Jeez lemme see, maybe they were old condoms and they turned black from the
heat. Maybe it was the original site of the Yokohama plant. 

Why don't we drop this thread, it is starting to get ugly and meaningless.

 
 
Thanks                                        

Don Stevenson/BMWCCA Boston Chapter 

All Rubber accounted for on all cars

1988 325IS, (too much to list), should have stayed the street car. (Sharked)


1987 325IS, project, should have been the track car. (Sharked)

1988 Volvo 240 Wagon 5 Speed. (Green Wheels)
 


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 11:10:34 -0500
From: "Money, Jack (J.J.)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] This rotor thread

It seems to me that the info that has been presented shows that the
consistency of the quality of the ATE slotted rotors is questionable.  One
must at least concede that given the number of different outcomes that your
chances of receiving a poor set are decent.  This, of course, assumes that
the individuals who are having the problems are not causing the problem.
Since I haven't really paid attention to who has been posting which type of
story this could be a bad assumption, I don't know.

I looked into the ATE's last year when I replaced my rotors and given all of
the varying responses I decided to avoid them.  I mean, what are the chances
that mine will be good?  Or bad?  I decided that the stock rotors would be
fine (which they are) and the $$$ wasn't really the issue.  YMMV, quite
obviously!

Regards,

Jack Money
Motor City Chapter
iX Registry, E30 M3 SIG
'89 iX ----> Sharked!
E30 M3 ----> Evolving
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] or reply
http://skumwerks.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:22:41 -0600
From: Michael Weishaar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] BMW/Williams or Williams/BMW??

I was looking in the paper yesterday, and they showed the race results
of the Brazillian F1 race, and I noticed that there was no mention of
BMW.  They were listed as Williams.  I thought BMW paid big bucks for
the team to be called BMW-Williams, instead of Williams-BMW.

I didn't get to see the race, but it doesn't look like BMW is doing all
that terribly this year (so far).  

Can't wait for Indy.....  yeee ha.

Michael
88 M3

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 08:23:10 -0800 (PST)
From: David Morrison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] "Friction Relign"?  What is this?

Here in TX a friction reline is typically pads and
turn the rotors if needed and then various inspections
to try and sell you on other "needed" work :^)  As
discussed before, don't turn your BMW rotors, replace
them if out of spec.

David Morrison
Austin TX
96 328i

- --- Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> There's a chain of brake stores in town with a
> really cheesy radio
> commercial that advertises a 50,000 mile warranteed
> (pro rata)
> "friction relign" brake job.
> 
> I'd never GO to this place, I'm actually looking
> forward to my first
> DIY brake job here in a couple weeks, but was
> wondering what this was.
> Never heard of it before.  What are they doing for
> their $99?
> 
> -- 
> Just Moe
> '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS
> BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter
> 

=====
David Morrison
Austin TX
96 BMW 328i Sedan
85 4Runner Crawler, Lifted & Locked

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 09:25:01 -0700
From: Land Shark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Injector Information (FAQ)

Ladies and Gents

In response to the many questions we've received from
BMW owners in response to our Gateway Tech introduction
of the Shark Injector(tm) We have prepared a FAQ.

This FAQ answers the majority of questions we have been
asked and can be found at:

http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com/info/injfaq.pdf

It is (as most of my docs are) in the Adobe PDF format,
and a free reader can be obtained at http://www.adobe.com

Thanks!

Jim Conforti

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 08:32:05 -0700
From: "vanderHeide, Alain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Replacing Fan Clutch on 1991 525i m50

> From: David Moore [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 3:25 PM
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I'm about to replace my fan clutch on my 1991
> 525i m50.  Bought the part from Steve D (plug
> plug) along with a 32mm open end wrench.
> 
> I've check the Bentley book..looks straight
> forward although it does mention a special BMW
> tool to hold it in place as you WHACK it.  Does
> anyone have a tip or two before I do this without
> the special tool?

I just replaced the water pump on my '95 M3, which required removing the
fan.  What I did was the following:

1 - Get a piece of sheet metal (I think what I used was roof flashing) about
5" wide by 2' long.

2 - Measure the center to center distance of two bolts on the fan pulley.

3 - Drill two holes slightly larger than the heads of the fan pulley bolts
very near one end of your piece of sheet metal.  Cut a notch between them to
clear the pulley shaft.

Your end result should look better than this poor ASCII representation (best
if viewed with a fixed font):

   |         |
   |         |    the Os are the holes for bolt heads
   |  O   O  |    the ^ is the notch
   |____^____|

You may need to put a little "s" shaped bend in this guy to clear things.
Put the holes over the bolts, hold the other end.  Wallah, all the leverage
you need.

Oh yeah, on mine (and almost certainly yours) the fan nut is a LEFT HAND
THREAD.

"Any PC built after 1985 has the storage capacity to house an evil spirit."
- - Rev. Jim Peasboro

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 09:58:40 -0500
From: dstevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Mysterious rubber thread

Hi

Can you please step in here and squash this thread? Is is pointless and
getting ugly.

Thanks

Don Stevenson
Network Administrator
Batterymarch Financial Management Inc.
200 Clarendon St.
Boston, Ma. 02116
617-351-2353
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


____________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________-

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 22:48:44 -0500
From: Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: <E30> Mysterious rubber pieces under hood.. Prob.?

James Moran wrote:
> 
> OK...  How do those sheared off teeth make it outside the timing cover
> and land in the engine compartment?  The original post asked,
> paraphrasing, "Hey, what are these rubber bits in my engine
> compartment?"
> 
> Have you ever looked at your engine?

My my, aren't you the wise ass? Yes, I had to look at my engine when I
changed
the cam belt and water pump two months ago. The broken teeth could have
scooted out through the space behind the rubber cam belt cover and engine
block on the driver's side under the thermostat housing. Have _you_ ever
looked at an M20 engine?

- -


****************************************************************************

 This message is intended for the addressee only and may contain privileged
or confidential information. Unless you are the intended recipient, you may
not use, copy or disclose to anyone any information contained in this
message. If you have received this message in error, please notify the
author by replying to this message and then kindly delete the message. Thank
you. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 11:16:44 -0600
From: Michael Weishaar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] The new ML55 AMG

I got an invitation in the mail to go check out the new Mercedes SUV -
ML55 AMG.
They are going to be running it at Soldier Field, where you get to drive
it, professional drivers take you on a "hot lap", drag race it against a
Porsche Boxster.  The competition will include the Toyota Land Cruiser,
Lexus RX300, and the BMW X5 (OBMWC).  The mailing said these other
models will be there for "demonstrations and friendly
competition...we're not worried though."
They say they are going to have "two high-speed tracks, a rigorous
off-road course and three Mercedes-Benz SUV models to choose from."

It isn't until mid May, but I am already looking very forward to it.  

Think I'll make them nervous if I show up in helmet and nomex?  :)

Michael
itty bitty 1988 M3

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 12:59:03 -0500
From: "Cagann, Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E28 M5 shop visit....opinions?

OK, my friend has an 88M5 with 175 grand on it.  It is beaten up pretty
nicely.  The other day, a coolant hose broke, the engine overheated a bit,
and it went in to the shop.  Apparently the engine is ok, but while in the
shop the mechanic found the following list of items that need work.  This is
the list from the mechanic with his part prices and labor.  Please let me
know your collective thoughts on 1)part prices 2)labor costs 3)alternatives
to the listed items 4)the mechanics statement that he will not do the work
unless he gets the parts at his mark up.  He is a bit weary of spending a
bunch of mulah on this car because it is in such bad shape.  It is a
shame....really....this M5 has shot interior, dented up panels, etc.   

This is the email from my friend:

Dear Alex:

Thanks for your help.

<beep> said as follows:

Part                            Part Price      Labor Price
Idler Arm                       $47.85          $42
Front Shocks:           
Bilsteins                       $160 ea.        $168 pair
Support Arms (2)                $119.90 ea.
 Bushings                       $41.8           $218.30
Right Rear Subframe Mount (2)   $38.78 ea.      $224 pair
Rear Brake Pads         $60.23          $42

Total                           $787.24         $694.30

<beep> says he has markup in parts and can't do job without markup.
Thoughts?

I appreciate your help.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:15:53 -0800
From: John Edward Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Certification.  Reply to Old Post.

> Hopefully you can clarify, but isn't the V-6 used in the 9-5 just a
> turbo-charged derivative of the GM one used in the Catera/Omega, or I am
> totally offbase here? BTW, I recently had the chance to drive the latest
> Saab turbo 4 in the 9-3, and it was impressive, especially on the
> highway. 
>
<snip>
>
>> 2. The injection of more money into BMW would give it the funding
>> required
> to develop more models and more motors.  >Remember how SAAB always claimed
> their I-4 turbo was as good as any V-6 and then made a V-6 the minute GM
> took over and the >money poured in?  I've heard quite a few good things
> about their V-6.

The Saab 2.5 and 3.0 V6s are versions of the 54-degree UK-made V6 that GM
uses in the Catera/Omega, the Vectra, the Saturn LS/LW, and probably others
I can't recall right now.  Early versions thereof got nasty reps for
cam-belt problems (Saab ended up paying for 15K-mile cam-belt changes for
the life of the car, if I recall correctly.)  It's a tremendously compact
engine.

As for BMW needing more funding to produce more models and more
engines...they already have a very comprehensive line of engines, and a
pretty exhaustive model range.  

They've voiced an intent to get into the lower end of the market, which had
been what they'd counted on Rover for.  Is that the right place to put the
BMW brand?  I guess the most comprehensive answer to that question would be
'how has the Benz A-class done?' and I don't know the answer to that one.  

Oh (pulling Nomex on for the inevitable 'No BMW Trucks' flamefest) and they
don't have a decent tow rig.  

John.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 13:22:30 -0500
From: Peter H Reinhart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re:Roll Bar High Impact Foam (longish summary)

        Thanks for all the replies and pointers on the high impact roll-bar 
foam.  I certainly learned more about roll bar foam than I ever thought I 
wanted to know.  The final upshot is there are 2 sorts of foam - standard 
polyethylene or neoprene foam in many colors (yes, even in gray) sold by 
numerous mail order places, and high density foam sold predominantly by 
NASCAR suppliers.

        According to a number of sources as well as a scientific 
study  "....analysis of the impact data shows that the majority of products 
used as roll cage protective padding have little or no energy absorbing 
capabilities.... " (see http://www.stockcarracing.com/tech/barpad.html 
)    Wow!  So much for the roll bar material I see in most cars.  Neither 
open-cell nor closed-cell neoprene or polyethylene foam offers much 
protection for your head or helmet.  Whereas your helmet is the first line 
of defense as the severity of the impact increases, roll bar padding 
becomes essential.  To cushion the G-forces tending to push your brain into 
your skull, the padding needs to be thick enough, and be made of the right 
material.

        Spent a long time chatting with Matt Ray at Brotherton Supply Co 
Inc.  (BSCI; they supply the shops that supply NASCAR and played a role in 
setting up the SFI 45.1 specifications), who convinced me that roll bar 
material needs to be high density foam that has passed  SFI 45.1 
specifications.  The SFI Foundation, Inc. (SFI; 
http://www.sfifoundation.com/) is a non-profit organization established to 
issue and administer standards for specialty/performance automotive and 
racing equipment.

        The SFI roll bar padding test procedure is similar to the test used for 
evaluating crash helmets.  The testing consists of three successive impacts 
by an 11-pound aluminum DOT headform traveling at 14.5 feet per second 
(approx. 10 m.p.h.), all at the same point on the padding. To pass the 
test, the acceleration may not exceed 200 G's for the first impact and 250 
G's for the following two impacts. In addition, the calculated Gadd 
Severity Index can not exceed 1500 for any of the impacts (above 1500 leads 
to head trauma).  Since many of the energy-absorbing polyurethane foams 
decrease in firmness with increasing temperature, the roll bar padding 
materials are required to pass the impact tests at 70�F and at 110�F. 
Finally, the materials are required to self-extinguish within 10 seconds 
following exposure to an open propane flame, and to do so without melting 
or dripping.  According to SFI president Arnie Kuhns, none of the popular 
offset-center roll bar pads made from polyethylene foam stand a chance of 
passing the tests. That also means they will not offer you much 
protection.  If they won't pass a 10 m.p.h. test how well will they do when 
going significantly faster�.?

        A number of you pointed out a few Mail Order Houses that carry SFI 45.1 
padding including Summit Racing (http://store.summitracing.com), and IOPort 
Racing (http://www.ioportracing.com/padding.htm). I'm sure there are 
others.  Some of the NASCAR suppliers include RDI (704-892-8688), H-R 
(704-597-1373), and BSR (704-795-0901).

        So the punch line is - go with the padding that will protect you, color be 
damned (and If you're still reading you too now know more about roll bar 
padding than you ever thought you wanted to...... ).

Cheers,

Peter Reinhart
E36M3 (gray interior, BLACK SFI 45.1 padding)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:23:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher Myers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] testing wheel trueness

Does a tire shop need a special machine to test the trueness of a
wheel, or can they just use a balancing machine.  I have a set of '95
M3 wheels that I want to check before I spend the money on tires.  By
the way, is a 235/40/17tire a good size for these rims or should I
stick with the 225/45/17 size that was stock?  Not for racing, mind
you, but I though the larger size might protect the rims better from
any inadvertent curb taps.  TIA for you input.

Chris

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End of [uucdigest] V3 #522
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