[uucdigest]           Friday, March 31 2000           Volume 03 : Number 549



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] Re: Suspicious
       Re: [uuc] Carfax
       [uuc] Minilite Replicas -13"/E21 F S 
       [uuc] Carfax
       [uuc] Maintaining Black Paint!!  (Part 1)
       [uuc] Maintaining Black Paint!! (Part 2)
       [uuc] <E39> Electronic Woes
       Re: UUCFest is on! [uuc]
       Re: [uuc] Carfax
       [uuc] <misc> Whadja find in dere?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 16:25:03 -0600
From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Suspicious

And the world is full of fools...

jason daniels

- ----------
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [uuc] Re: Suspicious
> Date: Friday, March 31, 2000 3:39 PM
> 
> Don't know what part of the country you're from, but here in NJ some of
the 
> seargant's make around $60 - $80k... in Paramus, NJ standard police
officers 
> All of this goes to prove the simple point that until you know the
details, 
> it's foolish to pass judgement.. 
> 
> -Ted 
> '99 323i/4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 22:27:20 GMT
From: "Chaz Yoon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Carfax

http://www.carfax.com/free still worked as of an hour ago.

Chaz

Henry Caldwell writes:
> If anyone on the list still have free access to carfax, I would like to ask
> if you would please run the following vin#. 4T1BG12K3TU951004
> Thanks much.
> Henry
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 15:26:57 -0000
From: "BMW Bits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Minilite Replicas -13"/E21 F S 

Set of 13x6" Minilite replicas (made by 'that' Shelby ) correct offset for
320/323i . 4bolt fitting . 2 have useable BFG 205/60's T/A radials (mebbe
5/8 k mls left on them ) . $400 the set,FOB Seattle  . They are straight and
pretty ding-free .Have one more BFG same size , not mounted ,TONS of tread
left $30 with the wheels ,$40 without .
Can supply digipix if U R serieux  .

Bill Proud ,29 yrs messing with BMWs in Seattle.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:34:20 -0500
From: "Henry Caldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Carfax

Thanks very much to everyone who responded with help on Carfax!  My son
thank you as well.
Henry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 15:00:41 PST
From: "Manuel Paredes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Maintaining Black Paint!!  (Part 1)

Okay everyone, since the rains are starting to dissipate and the sun is 
starting to shine I decided I would finally post this on the board.  It's 
time to shine up them dark bimmers!!  I was going to try to summerize what 
everyone sent me but it's just too much and some of these tips are good the 
way they were sent to me so here they are.

Manuel Paredes
95 325i (crippled)
L.A. BMWCCA

P.S. I am not responsible for any damage you do to your vehicle.

=====================================================================
Part 1

                      Maintaining black paint


Hi Manuel.
Not sure what a Kragen wash mit is, but if it's that polyester one,
get rid of it.  It scratches the paint.  You need to get the sheepskin (or 
fur,for that matter) wash mit.  Also, sounds like you're using stuff that is 
available from a Kmart of sorts.  Meguiars stuff sold in those retail stores 
is second rate.  They make a whole set of other products for the pros.  
These can be obtained from Larry at http://www.carcareonline.com.  He has a 
lot of info there about caring for paint as well as other stuff.

About drying the car, I'd stay away from using a chamois to dry the car.  
Think about it.  It's so thin and flat that if you have any residue dirt 
that didn't come off in the washing process that it would get rubbed around 
on the paint surface.  Instead, use the old trick of removing the nozzle and 
running a nice stream of water slowly from top to bottom.  The key is to get 
the water to sheet off the paint and leave less water to mop up.  After 
that, use a 100%
cotton towel to dry off (remember, stay away from towels made in 3rd world 
countries...they contain polyster even though they say 100% cotton).  Use 
Cannon brand or Fieldcrest (sp?) towels available at Macys.  This is all 
covered in that website I gave you. As for maintaining paint smoothness, you 
might want to consider a clay system. It's really nice.  Also, check out 
http://www.zainobros.com.  I use their products and like it very much.  They 
have UV blockers as well as anti-static properties so dust just glides off 
when driving.

HTH,Chester

Manuel,
I use Hi-temp products to remove swirls and found nothing beats it (I have 
tried Meguiers, etc. and although they work, I usually do not find they work 
as well and some other products are awfully harsh on the finish with actual 
abrasives). I also have used every polish or wax known (seemingly anyways).  
I prefer Pinnacle over Zymol products with Blitz Wax as a runner-up.  Over 
all of these I prefer Finish First Polish (not a wax but synthetic clear 
coat protection).  Not very well known but provides the most durable 
long-lasting
protection with very good shine.  Easier to use than wax and much 
moredurable. If you want any more information regarding these products, 
please feel free to write or call me at 216-420-4366.  I used to detail cars 
(before I left college for a "real" job) and continue to enjoy making cars 
look there best. I also still obtain certain hard to find products for 
friends and family as I am a dealer for certain products (like Finish 
First).  I do not make any money currently from my auto supply work but do 
it as a favor to certain
auto enthusiasts.

Best regards,Rich


Hi Manuel,
How are you doing?  I think your car is black like mine.  I feel like I have 
a pretty good system for minimizing micro scratches. Here's what I do:

1) I wash with Meguair's #00 (hi tech wash)  I've used a few soaps and
haven't noticed a major difference from one to another.  I'd say that
you ought to pick one based on price, availability, and smell!
I use a sheep skin mit from griot's garage.  It is hugely different
from the mit I bought at pep boys.  It is much softer, and seems to
stay cleaner.  I use it on the paint on the upper body of the car
(everything above the side rub strips.)  Below I use an old cheapy mit. I 
keep em seperate b/c the bottom of the car tends to have the really gross 
stuff that I don't want on the good part of the car.

2) I dry with a synthetic chamois.  I hate how chamois's get old and
ugly very quickly.  griot's sells them at a reasonably cost.

3) I do final dry with a cotton towel.  I only use a clean towel.
After the chamois it usually only takes one small towel to dry the car.

4) I keep the car covered as much as possible.  I actually pick up most of 
my scratches from putting on the cover.

5) I use 3m imperial hand glaze to polish the car.  It is the easiest
to apply / take off, of any polish I have tried to date.

6) I will use a clay bar 1 - 2x per year to give the car a freshlypolished 
look.

7) Blitz wax every 1-2 months.  This stuff give a finish as good as
zymol in 1/3 the time.  Highly recomended.  It usually takes care of
most small scratches.

8) In between washings I will use Meguair's final inspection to cleanoff 
dust. Scratches will still appear, but these products have worked well on 
mycar.

Good luck,
Bill Isaacson
94 325i blk on blk (big mistake!)


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 15:09:48 PST
From: "Manuel Paredes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Maintaining Black Paint!! (Part 2)

Here is the other half

=====================================================================
Part 2

Hi Manuel,
I have a black 328i (MY 98), with those same damned scratches.  It was 
delivered witha large number of them...  Causes:

1. Washing (soaping) a car with some amount of dust on it.  Doesn't have to 
be a lot of dust.

2. Buffing a car (such as after applying wax, polish, glaze, cleaner)
outside, where a slight amount of dust can settle on the car between drying 
and buffing.

3. Using buffing towels that aren't made of cotton. You asked for advice on 
avoiding another round of scratches on your now-fresh paint surface.

Here goes:
- - I would suggest using the lightest pressure when soaping your car.
Maybe drip water and/or soap over the car beforehand in the hope that most 
of the dust will come off before you have to touch the surface.  I 
personally use a cotton bath towel (tagged:100% cotton made in USA)  to soap 
the car.

- - Avoid buffing the car whenever possible.  Avoid polishes and glazes
until your paint actually seems to need it (imperial hand glaze is great at 
getting off those bird stains on an unwaxed surface).  Use
  a wax that is easily removed and in particular doesn't require
strenuous rubbing of the surface.

- - Use towels that are truly cotton.  I use Fieldcrest towels.  I've been 
told that towels that aren't made in the USA and claim to be cotton may not 
be; and I've ruined my own paint using the  cheapo Detailer's Choice 
towels.I used to own an auto detail business. The most important thing about 
those hair line scratches is to go along with the wind. Your car will 
develop them due to particles in the air, as you drive at 60-70-80- maybe 
90-100 mph, they scratch your car. While washing your car use forward to 
rear movement with
your mit (going along with the wind marks). While waxing your car do the 
same DO NOT GO IN A CIRCULAR MOTION!!!!!!!!! I can not stress that enough. 
That is where most of your visible markings come from. Do small areas at a 
time so you do not have to use a lot of pressure or friction to get the wax 
off. While washing your car you do not really need any type of soap in the 
water. If you choose to use a soap (USE A CAR SPECIFIC soap) you only need a 
small drop in a gallon of warm water. The more you use does not get the car 
any cleaner. It will only remove the wax from the paint. If you have any 
other
questions, I would enjoy answering them.

Pete



Manuel,
     I have a black '94 325.  Based on my experience, Meguair's polishes 
work great on BMWs but their waxes do not.  After 15 years of using 
Meguair's, I changed to 3M Imperial Hand Glaze for polishing and Blitz One 
Grand Wax.  For the first time ever I am getting very good results without 
needing to buff the final coat of wax repeatedly.  Apparently the Meguiar's 
wax has some polymers in it that react with the BMW paint, causing the wax 
to become slightly cloudy.  Visually this looks like big smudges in the 
finised wax job that no amount of buffing will remove. I would recommend 
calling Larry at www.carcareonline and getting his advice.  He stocks a lot 
of product, prices are reasonable, and if you tell him what you want to do 
he will recommend the right products. FWIW, Zymol is good but very expensive 
for what you are getting. HTH,
Mike


I'll give you my formula.  I have a "Lapis Blue" '87, 325 I bought new. This 
is almost black.  I had a terrible time with swirls, etc. for years and 
finally found this solution (YMMV). Throw out the wash mitt and the chamois. 
  The chamois drags off all the wax. Get some 100% cotton terry towels, 
older the better. If you are not sure if they are 100% cotton, you can hold 
a match to a few threads.  If they give any sign of melting instead of just 
burning, they have some polyester in and you don't want to use them. Wash 
towels in hot water two or three times using a powder detergent.  Make sure 
they get a good rinse each time.I use all Meguire's products. Wash with 
their car wash liquid.  Start at top and work down. Change the water, soap 
and towel at the first sign of any of it getting visibly dirty. Take a small 
(4-in.) squeegee and very lightly flick off any standing, or
beaded water.  Then dry with the toweling. I have a Porter Cable orbital 
buffer with separate foam pads to apply the following:If the car is very 
dull and swirled start with No. 2- Fine Cut If not too bad, skip the No. 2 
and go straight to:No. 9 - Swirl Remover No 7 - GlazeNo 26 - Yellow Wax. 
Each of these has to be applied, let dry and buffed off using the toweling. 
Now go and wash all the towels on hot again with the powder detergent at 
least twice.I only have to do this once a year.  In the meantime, a wash and 
the squeegee, followed by a quick dry does it all. Depending on what your 
car looks like initially, you will be amazed after you finish the Nos. 2 
and.  The car actually looks best after the No. 7 and I think this is where 
people with show cars stop, but it will not last and the wax is needed to 
preserve the shine.

MANUEL:
IMNSHO, black (or any dark color) paint requires special care and
attention to look nice.  You're on the right track in using Meguiar's Number 
7, Show Car Glaze as your polishing product.  You might also try their 
Number 81, Hand Polish.  3M also makes a great polish in their Foam 
Polishing Pad Glaze Swirl Mark Remover For Dark Colored Cars, PN 39009: 
http://www.mmm.com/market/automotive/showcar.html
Now on to waxing.  Unless you only drive your car on sunny weekends I'd 
avoid the Zymol products.  They have a half life measured in days!!  The 
best wax I've found for a black BMW daily driver is One Grand Blitz.  Call 
Larry Reynolds at CarCareOnline: http://www.carcareonline.com/
Several Digest folks have raved about the Zaino Brothers' products:
http://www.zainobros.com/index.shtml
The best investment I've made towards dark car care is a Porter Cable random 
orbit polisher, Model 7336 or 7424:
http://www.toolsforless.com/porter_cable/sanders_polishers.htm
Usual disclaimers apply.  YMMV.

Jim Millet1995 M3,
Hellrot, Sharked and Blitz'd
Formerly owned a black 1994 325iS.

Manuel,
I was busy during the holidays and missed your post and the replies to it.  
Do you mind sharing some of the good tips you received?
I have a black 94 325is and it's been a real pain to keep looking good.  I 
have read a lot of articles on paint care, talked to several high-end auto 
paint shops and tried most of the major polishes and waxes.  The best 
results I've gotten are polishing with Meguiar's #9 swirl remover or #7 
glaze followed by a coat of #26 (I think) wax.  To do it right takes 7 or 8 
hours. Here is one of the better articles I've found on the web: 
http://vettenet.org/wax.html
I have also called Meguiar's 1-800 number (listed on all their products) 
several times and have found them to be helpful.
Terry [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 18:14:05 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] <E39> Electronic Woes

I'm looking for some help, hopefully someone on the list may have had a 
similar experience.

Purchased, brand new 10/99 and have just under 5000 miles, a 528iT, with 
automatic. This is a great car, but mine seems to have a deficiency in the 
DME or perhaps some Microsoft operating system.

It seems as if for no apparent reason the brains of the system goes into a 
"limp home mode." The following lights appear on the dash, EML, Service 
Engine soon, Brake light (in yellow) the one that tells you, you did not 
release the emergency break, and the DSC light (Yellow traction controls 
light).

This has happened three times. The first time driving at highway speed 
55-65mph, after several hours on the road. managed to literally limp home. 
The second time, starting the car cold in the morning and the third time 
starting the car after it was running for several hours and then after it was 
parked for a half hour.

The sales rep from my dealership (Life Quality, Brooklyn, NY -- good people) 
asked me to try to reset the computer after the first experience. 

Reset procedure:
Turn ignition key all the way short of turning over the starter, three times. 
On the fourth try turn key all the way. This worked the first two times and 
all lights went out, except the 'Service Engine Soon' light and the engine 
behaved normally. The 'Service Engine Soon' light went out after several more 
start ups of the engine.

Today, I was at the service department to have the fault codes read. I forget 
the codes the rep told me, I did not have time to wait for the print out but 
will get them on Monday. The service writer said that they have no clue as to 
what is wrong, his guess that it might be the throttle body.  He is going to 
be running this problem thru BMW NA.  

However that was in the AM. This afternoon the third incident occurred and 
the reset procedure is not working. I'll be bringing the car in Monday, AM, 
having it Flat Bedded.

Any ideas, as to the problem?




Steve Fischthal
Lawrence, NY
NY Chapter BMW CCA
98 328is spts pkg., BL/SSed, X-Brace
00 528it (just a virgin,untouched by this bimwad,the ultimate geezer mobile)

"If you're not scared, you're not driving fast enough".

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 18:12:22 -0500
From: Rich Beebe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: UUCFest is on! [uuc]

Steve Nash wrote:

> I have planed on coming up to see the race and cheer my fellow NCC members
> on and I am glad to see so many will be there.  Now I know to bring beer and
> food :)  If any one can use an extra helping hand in the pits I don't mind
> getting dirty, let me know.

oh, we'll put you to work alright steve!! if you're serious about
helping out, even a little, let me know and i'll add you to my crew
list. i have one 'free' slot left. i'm sure some of the others have
opening too. look for us against the back of the paddock (towards
the trees), across from the tech shed.

rich beebe
ncc
95 M3
88 M3
ITS 325is #7

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 18:38:19 -0500
From: "Henry Caldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Carfax

Thanks Chaz  for the info and your help.
Henry
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chaz Yoon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: [uuc] Carfax


>
> http://www.carfax.com/free still worked as of an hour ago.
>
> Chaz
>
> Henry Caldwell writes:
> > If anyone on the list still have free access to carfax, I would like to
ask
> > if you would please run the following vin#. 4T1BG12K3TU951004
> > Thanks much.
> > Henry
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:49:32 -0600
From: Scott Ferguson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <misc> Whadja find in dere?

Alex Cagann writes:

"I take the front seats out and really hit that carpet good....Who knows,
you may find something neat under the seats...."

When I bought my euro 635csi (dead now of terminal rust, RIP) I took out
the seats as a matter of course, and found, to my delighted surprise, a 40
watt Alpine amplifier and 2 ADS crossovers - and about 20 quarters to tell
all my friends about it!  Man, this guy must have been crapping quarters,
they were all OVER the inside of the car - in the spare tire well, under
carpet, underneath the console, etc.  In another car (a 1972 Celica.  Don't
ask.) I found a gold wedding band under the back seat.

What's the best thing YOU'VE ever found inside a used car?  Besides, of
course, cargo netting in rental cars.  We've already ridden that thread
like a two dollar...horse. ;-)

Scott Ferguson
1985 535i, which came to me with a ballpoint pen, a dozen beads from a
child's necklace, a medallion of St. Christpher (I think) and about a buck
thirty five in loose change.

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #549
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