[uucdigest]           Monday, April 10 2000           Volume 03 : Number 581



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] Pacific BMW
       [uuc] E36 M3 a/c question
       [uuc] <E28> Broken glovebox light (not flashlight)
       RE: [uuc] Supercharger Boost Question
       [uuc] <Cross Post> Battery Replacement and Battery Tender Recommendatio ns 
<Frequent Question>
       Re: [uuc] FS: 1986 528e
       Re: [uuc] WTB: manual sport seats
       [uuc] Answer on previous F1 question
       Re: [uuc] E36 M3 a/c question
       [uuc] FS: 1995 M3
       [uuc] New website
       [uuc] Re: [E36] Vibration problem discovered-bad "guibo" -- Longish
       [uuc] Some short somewhere

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 11:41:17 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Pacific BMW

Rich, I recently called Euro-Werkes for a bunch of M5 parts.  They couldn't
get them because they are low volume parts.  They only deal in normal stuff.
I then went to Ganley BMW in Middleburg Hts.  They recently got a new parts
manager, Tom Tunnell, who actually likes his customers.  They now give 20%
off (the old guy only gave 10%) and are very easy to work with.  That is
where I ended up going for my parts.  Just a suggestion.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Celisa,
>
> I ordered a factory alarm system from Pacific, along with a couple of
> miscellaneous parts (filters, etc.).  The alarm and parts were ordered at
> the same time.  When I did not receive anything after a week, I called
them
> and they said they did not have my order so I placed it again.
>
> A week later, I received the parts.
>
> A month later reviewing my credit card bill, Pacific charged me twice.  I
> called Pacific and they claimed I had been sent the two orders twice.
> Needless to say, UPS was the carrier and either UPS or Pacific screwed up.
>
> Pacific credited me for the second charge without too much arguing.
>
> In summary, fairly sorry ordering process, too much follow-up needed and
> somewhat sketchy stories (akin to "just return this at your local
dealer").
> Although, everything was made right in the end and the price was right.
>
> YMMV but I miss Stephen.  I think I may try one of these other places
people
> have recommended next time I order:
>
> Richmond BMW
> (800) 237-0130
> Note  20% off of MSRP everyday  -  We will not be undersold and will
> match any price on Genuine BMW parts offered by any other Authorized
> BMW dealer.
>
> Nick Alexander Imports
> Los Angeles.
> Phone 323-583-1901
> 1-800-800-NICK
> Ask for Joe Chavez in "Parts".
>
> Circle BMW
> (732) 741-1184
> Ask for Dave Reinhold in parts
>
> BMW Store in Cincinnati
> Ask for James Dean
> gives at least 25% discount to club members
> (800) 543-1649
> (513) 271-8700
>
> EURO-WERKS / Mercedes Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair
> 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391
> The normal discount to web buyer is about 40% off of BMW list
> Kirk A. Gilchrist
> 606-745-0125
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] / www.euromajic.com
>
> Good luck.  No affiliation to the above, just past recommendations by
other
> UUC and E36M3 digesters.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 11:25:19 -0500
From: "Mendez, Andrew D." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E36 M3 a/c question

This is a repost of a msg. I sent a week or so ago; my email filter was
acting up and blocking the digests the past week. I don't even know if this
msg. made it through last time. Thanks for any help.

My a/c is not working for crap. It only seems to reduce the interior temp
about 3-4 degrees even at max cool. I am hoping it just needs a charge (car
was build November 1995). Can someone tell me how to check the sight glass -
I can't remember if bubbles are good, bubbles are bad, or what not. In fact,
I don't even know where the sight glass is but I haven't looked closely. The
Bentley manual doesn't seem to cover this. How much does a recharge should
cost? Thanks,

Andy '95 M3

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 13:02:09 -0400
From: "Jim Herman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Broken glovebox light (not flashlight)

Anybody know how to fix the light for the glovebox.  It's not the fuse,
which seems to be connected to boat-loads of other stuff too, all
working I might add.  After replacing my ///M5's dead battery almost 4
weeks ago, I noticed the glovebox light did not work.  After poking
around in there, I'm not even sure where the stupid light is.

Can anyone give me some clues (location and repair)?  I'm not usually
this helpless.  Really, it's true.

Jim Herman
'88 ///M5

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 11:14:08 -0600
From: "vanderHeide, Alain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Supercharger Boost Question

> From: Mike Murrell [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 11:05 AM
> 
[snip, re: Dinan Vortech supercharger]
> ...(a quick 2 psi of boost and 
> then nothing). 
> There are no obvious leaks so I am wondering about the 
> monitoring location. 
> Also, have people tried different size pullies on this 
> system? I am at 7000 
> feet and I am wondering about the idea of a smaller pulley 
> for more boost.

Definitely talk to Dinan.  I looked at buying a used ERT Vortech system last
year that a guy was taking off an M-roadster.  He (like I) lives at 5000
ft., and he had to go to a much smaller than standard pulley on the S/C
before he got his advertised 6 psi.

Just for curiosity:  Does anyone know how altitude affects positive
displacement (Roots) S/Cs?  FWIU, because of reduced air density at
altitude, centrifugal S/Cs need to spin faster to attain their rated boost,
turbos (which are controlled by wastegates or some similar mechanism)
compensate by spinning faster.  I'm guessing that I've answered my own
question, your boost would drop at altitude.

"Any PC built after 1985 has the storage capacity to house an evil spirit."
- - Rev. Jim Peasboro

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 13:16:33 -0400
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <Cross Post> Battery Replacement and Battery Tender Recommendatio ns 
<Frequent Question>

I have a 95 M3 (with the original battery).

Looks like the battery is on its last legs (reasonable life span from
previous posts).  I have seen random recommendations varying from Optima to
Interstate.

My first question:  What does the group recommend as the easiest replacement
(little or no retrofitting to factory location which provides factory
amperage at a more reasonable price than the factory OEM battery (what is
the part # and MSRP).  Where can you buy your recommendation and how much?

Second question:  What does the group recommend for a battery tender?  I
stored my car without one this winter knowing the  battery was just about
done anyway but would like to avoid doing this to a new battery next year.
Where can you buy your recommendation and how much?

Sorry this question gets asked a lot but I believe there may be some updates
from the last time this was asked that could help the group get up to speed
on the current status of the battery replacement and maintenance market.

Thanks in advance.

Best regards,

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:16:33 -0500
From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] FS: 1986 528e

Another post to add on these lines. A friend that totaled his 86 528E is
looking to sell the aftermarket parts that were on it. I know he has a TRI
FLOW "quiet" exhaust, used 6 mos. a Dinan chip, and a K & N conical filter.
Exhaust sounts great, and is not loud or drowney. (spelling)? Please e-mail
me directly and I will get you his number. I have no idea on prices.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

jason Daniels.

- ----------
> From: Joseph C. Volpe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [uuc] FS: 1986 528e
> Date: Sunday, April 09, 2000 9:30 PM
> 
> For Sale
> 
> 1986 528e Auto
> Excellent shape
> Runs great!
> Jim C chip
> K&N air filter
> Dark Gray
> Black leather
> Sunroof
> ABS
> Plus all other standard features (working OBC)
> Power seats (that work)
> A/C (that works)
> New Battery
> New rebuilt drive shaft
> New BMW exhaust
> New hoses & belts
> New Brakes
> New BMW emblems
> BMW BBS 15" wheels from 1992 535i
> BMW Sport Steering Wheel from 325is
> 
> Pics available
> 
> Southern NJ
> 
> BMW CCA Member
> 
> Joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:23:11 -0500
From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] WTB: manual sport seats

New Recaro's are available at their web site. Simply type "recaro" and that
should bring them up. Their corporate office is in Detroit, and they have a
great
site to see all models produced. 

good luck,

jason Daniels
- ----------
> From: Howard K Mitchell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [uuc] WTB: manual sport seats
> Date: Monday, April 10, 2000 7:03 AM
> 
> The electric leather sport seats in my 535is are in need of repair, and
> instead of recovering them, I'm looking for other alternatives.  I'd
> particularly be interested in cloth, manual sport seats (savings in
> weight over electric), from Euro cars.  I'd also like to consider
> replacement aftermarket sport/racing such as Koenig, Sparco, Recaro,
> etc.  Any leads as to used items in good condition, or distributors for
> new ones would be appreciated.
> 
> Ken Mitchell
> Durham, NC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 10:26:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Arslan Akhtar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Answer on previous F1 question

B.A.R stands for British American Racing. Jacques
Villenueve has stakes in the company, which now has
the Honda works engine.
Of course if everyone was lucky enough to have
Speedvision then you would all know this.
I received my US F1 tickets last week, to be held at
Indianapolis on Sept 24th. I just wonder if it gets
any tv coverage.

=====
_____________
Arslan Akhtar
  OO=oo=OO

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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:32:45 -0700
From: richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 M3 a/c question

most likely, just low on refrigerant, 
systems loose about 5% of their charge per year, through the compressors
seal...more , if not used monthly during the cooler seasons...

so if you look at your, data plate under the hood, for the ac system ,it
will tell you the amount of charge and you can get an idea of the amount
that you will have to re-charge with...

since your car in a 95, 5 years X 5% of x = amount lost/needing to be
replaced...{x = total charge data from you spec plate for your a/c]

i just did my '96 chevy shop truck, it took one 12 ounce can of r134,
now you can chill your whatever off...

richard, euro wrench, exiled in texas
ps...looks like its gona be a great a/c repair summer for us here
again...i just rolled my a/c tool cabinet out of the corner, and stocked
up on various refrigerants

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 10:32:38 PDT
From: "Tim Gergen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] FS: 1995 M3

Finally selling my car.  Details at 
http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+A0+R879460+Q357361771

Car also has a new radiator, water pump, belts, tensioners, 320i Tranny 
mounts, and valve retainer update!  All receipts and records.  NO accidents 
either!

I would appreciate you letting anybody know about it who may be interested.  
Car is VERY clean.  I just bought a 125 cc shifter kart and am ready to buy 
a truck so I can go racing!  Need to sell ASAP.  VERY negotiable!

Thanks, Tim
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Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 14:14:05 -0400
From: "VincentMathew Malfa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] New website

Uh, since I've started getting a fair amount of email about it, I guess now
is as good a time as any to tell everyone that my new webpage is up... I
don't believe anyone else has staked a claim to this title or it's content,
so here goes:

The Unofficial E36 325i/is Page
http://www.wpi.edu/~vmcmalfa/bmwhome.htm

It's not exactlly what I'd call done (still lacking a lot of graphics,
photos, full Netscape compatability, submissions from other digesters) but
you're all welcome to take a look. A lot of it was thrown together quickly
(buyer's guide could use some help, as could general mod info), so please
feel free to drop me a line about anything you would like to contribute.

- -Matt M.
____________________________
VincentMathew C. Malfa
http://www.wpi.edu/~vmcmalfa

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 11:07:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve J <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: [E36] Vibration problem discovered-bad "guibo" -- Longish

Hey Lane,

I've had the same problem with my 93 325is (65k) and advice/posts I have gotten/read 
were mixed on DIY-ability of this repair.  Having attempted it without some amenities
such as power tools and a lift, I now agree with the let-your-buddy-mechanic-do-it 
camp.
I witnessed most but not all parts of the operation, so some descriptions might be 
off; I am
confident that the sharp-eyes on this digest will catch them and redirect you.  You 
might 
also want to consult Bentley as they have some nice pics.

The root of all evil is that you have to loosen up the driveshaft to gain enough 
front/back movement.  Otherwise, you won't be able to get the guibo out (among the 
impediments, I was told, is that there is an inner bushing/sleeve "aligning" 
driveshaft to 
transmission output shaft that will not release without pushing the driveshaft back).  
This
leads to an unsavory task of having to separate exhaust pipes from the headers.  Six 
bolts
holding yours (3 bolts each) are likely rusted thoroughly just like mine were.  Let's 
just
say
even after a downpour of liquid wrench, my breaker bar did exactly what its name 
implied :(
on one of those six (being on my back without much room to apply meaningful force 
didn't 
help).  Even my trusted shop broke off a bolt (I wasn't sure if I frowned or grinned) 
even 
with the resources they have (they removed, rethreaded and rebolted of course).
But after your one-touch roof operation (I haven't done it but thanks for the detailed
info), 
you might be able to pull it off.

If you can get those 6 bolts off without glitches, you have more or less clear 
sailing. 
Among
the things you should do while you are there include lubing the gear shifter linkage 
and
possibly
replacing the 2 transmission rubber mounts with sturdier ones (although there were
dissenting
views on whether this was safe in case of crashes).  Don't forget to check the health 
of
U-joints.

Parts were pretty cheap, <$100 for 2 triangle-shaped exhaust gaskets, guibo and
locking nuts/bolts (the latter 2 were from SteveD).  Labor charges brought the total 
up to 
$300 or so (shop charged me to rethread two bolts).  Good luck.

Steve 

93 325is

PS You should avoid hard acceleration until you fix this problem.  You may
prematurely wear out center bearing assembly (but for about $50 or so, you
might want to replace that as well while you are at it.)

> Once I do get the new part, is removal/replacement as simple
> as it looks?  It looks like I just pull those six bolts, pull the old one
> out, put the new one in, and reinstall the bolts.  Is that all there is to
> it?  Is there anything else I need to replace while I have that disc out?


__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 11:28:46 -0700
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Some short somewhere

Randy,

Your tranny , license plate light situation reminds me of the time I had a phone
set installed in my '85 735. The subcontractor comes out, installs the phone at
work and everything appears OK.

Later that night, I leave to go home and I'm moving down our crowded Hwy 101 and
put my arm up on the window "ledge" and happen to catch the door button and push
it down. Next thing you know the car dies.

You don't want to be in the middle lane of a Calif. Hwy and die. No one wants to
take the smart approach and let you push yourself off the road. Idiots.

Anyway the installer had driven a ground wire under the back seat right through
the bundle of wires under the piece of sheet metal he used to make the
attachment. You could even see the wire loom right there. What a moron. The
short killed the fuel pump and stopped the car right now.

Have you had any work done on the car lately?

- -Kevin

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #581
**************************

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