[uucdigest] Thursday, April 13 2000 Volume 03 : Number 596 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Re: A-pillar removal pics...tee hee [uuc] Re: <E30> Stock wheel size Re: [uuc] Strange video... [uuc] I think I REALLY screwed up! Re: [uuc] Brought her in for a landing Re: [uuc] I think I REALLY screwed up! [uuc] Re: <E36> A-pillar wires [uuc] F/S: E28 Steel Wheels and Bentley Manual [uuc] Battery Replacement [uuc] <E39>Shortshifter question [uuc] <e36> new tapping noise Re: [uuc] Strange video... [uuc] Fiberglass [uuc] 1984 533I Fuel Pump Follow-up ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:07:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: A-pillar removal pics...tee hee The key was finding the balancing point so that the car wouldn't roll off the workmate. It turns out that with the stock airbox, euro headlamps and Barbarian strut bar make my car front heavy; thus, disturbing the 50/50 weight distribution. =) Chester - --- James Moran <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Chester, > > How did you get your car up on your Workmate? I find I can't tighten it > enough to prevent the car from rotating. Did you make a special jig? > How do you keep those orange plastic nubbins from breaking? :) > > http://www.geocities.com/chester_p_wong/a_pillar/a_pillar.jpg ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:03:06 -0700 From: Randy Walters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E30> Stock wheel size Scott Catlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: >What's the stock wheel size on the E30 325is? I need to know if my 185/60/14 >BFGoodrich g-Force T/A R1s will fit. Since I don't own the car yet, I can't just >go look at what's on there now. Thanks. - - Scott The stock E30 325is wheel is a 14x6.5" cross-spoke. The 185/60-14 is normally used on a 6" rim, but they'll fit a 6�" fairly well although they're quite a bit shorter and narrower than the stock 195/65-14 size. When you finally wear those 185's out, replace them with a nice fat G-Force 225/50-14 which will be much faster :-) I assume the tires are for autocross? Randy Walters 89 325is DSP http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=153582&a=1200064 http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/msgboard/board.pl ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 09:17:16 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Strange video... Now that would be humorus! By the way, I saw a video that had the Silver sport package X5 in it that one of the people on the list from FLA was asked to donate for the video for some compensation. Looks like he lost out. Could have sold it on EBAY for a bizillion dollars to some nit -wit. jason Daniels - ---------- > From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] Strange video... > Date: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 7:25 PM > > So I'm flipping through the reorganized channels from my cable service > provider. Who'd think that it would take them this long to figure out to group > related channels together.....duh! Anyway, one of the channels right next to > MTV has this video by Big Tymers called "Get your roll on." In this video, > they had a Diablo spinning with the doors opened and the rappers hanging out of > the door openings. Absolutely crazy! I could imagine if one of them fell out > and got pinned under the car... > > FWIW, > Chester > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. > http://invites.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:19:40 -0400 From: "Phemister, George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] I think I REALLY screwed up! <<<<<<<Karl writes: Subject: RE: [uuc] I think I REALLY screwed up! I suspect the worst that will happen is you leak coolant - slowly, but you still need to fix it (IMHO) so ... 1) buy a torque wrench so you don't do this again 2) trust the pump enough to go buy new bolts (4) 3) since the bolt was going in (not frozen) there's a pretty good chance that there is enough of it poking out of the block that you will be able to screw the end of it out. It might take some creative poking. 4) Put things back together using your new torque wrench. 5) Enjoy anxiety-free driving>>>>>>>>>>> Generally, when you're looking at something under pressure, you need all the fasteners in place. On an oil pan, you might get away with a missing bolt (1 of 20) , but not 1 of 4 or 5 on a water pump. So, its off with the pump, get a new gasket, and get the broken bolt out. Try penetrating oil and vice grips. If it snapped off flush with the housing, you got a bigger problem. As a rule, you should always check all the bolt holes for crap and fluid - Q-tips work well, or shoot some BrakeKlean in ( but don't let the washout get in the engine. Clean all the bolt threads with a wire brush. I will often try a bolt in each hole by hand before putting the part in place to check the threads (but don't screw it in much further than it would go with the part in place. Water pump bolts often get corrosion on them. Buy a torque wrench. Get the torque specs. Read them. The small bolts going into the aluminum head and castings are (off the top of my head) in the 10 to 15 ftlb range. Not a whole bunch for the torque-wrist approach. George ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 09:35:49 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Brought her in for a landing Chris! I'm not sure about the 83' but if you can, chip that sucker. GOD what a huge difference in the way it drives. The car is easy to work on so enjoy it. jason Daniels former owner of an 86' 528eta >snip > It's burning oil and needs a tune-up, sunroof and passanger window do > not open, driver's seat is a little saggy, antenna does not go down, > right side speakers work when they want to, temperature guage has a > life of its own... but other than those little things, we get 30 mpg > and when you stomp on the gas the little-six comes to life instantly > and we are soon at redline (which isn't hard in a 528e). > > I think I'll admire those boxy lines a bit before bedtime :-b > > Chris > -- > '83 528e > Bavarian Auto Club of Vancouver Island member #2137 > http://members.home.net/iphoto/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 09:48:22 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] I think I REALLY screwed up! Buy 2 torque wrenches. In lbs & ft lbs. Spend the dough and get good ones. I would take it apart and fix it. That gasket will eventually fail. There might be enough of the bolt sticking out so you can grab it and turn it out. good luck, jason D - ---------- > From: David Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] I think I REALLY screwed up! > Date: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 11:14 PM > > OK, never fails. I don't trust 90% of the > garages to do basic to medium work on my car so I > try to do it myself. So I set in to replace my > radiator, fan clutch, and water pump on my 1991 > 525i. All goes well until I go to install the > new water pump. As I'm tightening the 4 nuts > that hold the pump to the block, I'm thinking > "hmmmm these seem a little small, better be > careful as to not break one of these off...one > more tighten...." snap!!!! If I were the > swearing type, I'd have let out a list that would > have rivaled George Carlin's 7 dirty words you > can't say on TV (at least until a few years > ago)...but I digress. OK, so now I'm sitting > with 3 out of 4 nuts holding the new water pump > on and decide to continue to put it all back > together. Pulley, new fan clutch on the new > water pump, new radiator..the whole bit. So, I'm > driving around with a water pump with only 3 out > of 4 nuts holding it on. Seems OK, but I guess > it's ust not the same as having all 4 even nuts > holding the sucker on. Am I setting myself up > for a catastrophe? If this lets loose, I'll > proly end up with a whole list of broken > pieces...radiator, fan, fan clutch, possibly more > right? Anyone have any comments either way? > Where would I find a good set of studs to replace > the 4 (now 3)? or... am I being a bit crazy and > the 3 should be fine? > > Steve D? got 4 titanium studs? > > thoughts? > > David > 1991 525i m50 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. > http://invites.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:50:38 -0400 From: Felix Vicente <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E36> A-pillar wires No problem. The A-pillar (and yes, I believe that is correct) cover simply snaps off (be careful with the clips - if they stay in the pillar rather than on the cover when you remove them, your life will be much easier for reinstalling if you remove the clips from the car and put them back on the cover first). To put the cover back on, *make sure the tabs are lined up with the holes in the pillar* and then you can just give the panel a good whack at the location of the clips (4, if memory serves me right.) I cannot stress enough that the pins need to line up before you whack the cover, otherwise you'll bend the pins. (BTDT.) You will find it easier to run them if you remove the glove box as well. (I presume you're running them down the RH side of the car.) I currently have two conductors running down the right pillar- one provides illumination to the overhead console from an E39 with the kewl little orange LEDs (details on Matt Malfa's 325 page) and the other runs from the sunroof down to the (aftermarket) radio's accessory connection, so the radio keeps playing after I turn the car off until I open the door, a la most GM rental cars of late. ( I got addicted to the feature.) Soon I'm going to have three more to run through there: reverse light trigger for the auto dim/universal transmitter/alarm led rear view mirror from the E46 convertible (details, again, on Matt's site soon). The mirror is also available without the auto dim and is quite possibly the only way to get the BMW universal transmitter into a regular E36 (there is a kit for the roadsters which uses the center armrest.) AFAIK, the B-pillar is the one in the middle (ie where the front door latches on to) and the c-pillar is the one for the rear window, regardless of car configuration. (ie the 850 and the new CL500 have no b pillar, but the rear one is still the c pillar.) - -Felix Vicente Everglades Chapter Miami, FL (occasionally) '95 325i blk/blk, many mods - mine '95 525iA, calypso/beige, just a chip - sister's '98 740iL, white/beige, stock - mother's ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 08:18:30 -0700 From: "Brice York" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] F/S: E28 Steel Wheels and Bentley Manual I have 4 black steel wheels (6.5 x 15) that were purchased at Tire Rack. They were used twice on a 1985 535i, and twice on a 1988 535i. Included are 2 Michelin XGTs (215/60/15) and 2 Bridgestone Potenza RE71s (205/60/15) with some tread left. $150/obo plus shipping. I also have a Bentley BMW 5-Series Service Manual (528e, 533i, 535i, 535is 1982-1988). $30/obo. Need to get rid of these, as I no longer have the right car for these items. Thanks!! Brice York ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:24:13 -0500 From: "Holeman, David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Battery Replacement After a hard life the battery for my 95 M3 has given up the ghost. I am looking for a recommendation for a replacement battery that will fit properly. I have heard that the Diehard International will fit but I am not sure. Any recommendations would be appreciated. David Holeman www.racepad.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:23:56 -0500 From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E39>Shortshifter question I recently installed the UUC EVO Shifter on my 97 528i. Great product! Shift is not incredibly shorter (the E39 is already pretty good) but feels very noticably more "connected" to the trans. Installation using jackstands took maybe 20 minutes. Now for the question - on the OEM shifter, strapped just below the leather boot, was a weight maybe 2" in diameter and 3/4 inch thick. I went ahead and reinstalled this on the new shifter, but I've been wondering what it is supposed to do, and what the advisability/impact of leaving it off would be. It is not mentioned in any of the documentation. The weight has a BMW logo on it, so I'm assuming it's not some aftermarket thing the PO installed. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 11:43:28 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <e36> new tapping noise John: You didn't by any chance recently change sparkplugs, did you? I don't mean to give you false hope if it's something more serious, but I had an rpm-related tapping noise appear in my '93 325is a few years ago, before I startd doing my own basic maintenance. It turns out some moron wrench-turner at a dealer (to remain nameless... :-) had not fully torqued one of the sparkplugs when doing a sparkplug replacement, and I was getting "blow-by" (ok, keep your minds out of the gutter, boys and girls.. you know who you are) through the sparkplug opening. The fix was as simple as identifying the offending plug (easy, since there was nice black soot in the spark plug hole) and replacing and re-torquing that one plug. I guess I was lucky the engine didn't spit the plug out the hole, taking the ignition coil and who knows what else with it! Yet another reason to do your own basic maintenance. If you want something done right... you know the rest. I hope it's something as simple as that! Good luck, Felipe '93 325is [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 21:51:26 -0700 > From: "John Tollefsrud" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] <e36> new tapping noise > I'm hoping for some encouragement but fear the worse. My '94 325i with 120K, > and a lifetime of Mobil 1 every 5K miles, has developed a tap, heard loudest > near Cyl 1. I can find no evidence of a cracked exhaust manifold or blown > manifold gasket from any angle, so I'm down to having to - what- pull the > head? Is there a chance that something in the timing chain area would cause > a taping noise? > Any thoughts? And I thought that not-quite-steady idle problem in my E30 was > a pain... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:48:45 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Strange video... Yeah, there a couple of those "Dorks" in the western suburbs of Chicago that Drive, I mean cruise around in Diablos. Kind of humerous last Sat night, on the 4 lane 45mph zone buy my house, He sauntered up to me at the light. looked over and was reving the motor. (not that I mind as those Italian engines sound fabulos) but he keeps rocking the car back and forth looking over waiting for the light to change. The humerous part is I'm in my '85 Volvo station wagon. The light goes green and I'm expecting a firey burn out and all I here is a stumble and clunk! He stalled it. DOH! LOOOOOSSSEERR!! Jason Daniels - ---------- > From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [uuc] Strange video... > Date: Thursday, April 13, 2000 1:15 AM > > Jim Powell wrote: > > > > What? A dead rapper and a torn up Diablo? What's the problem? > > Ferraris are cool cars. Diablo's are just bloated underachievers. > > > > Its amazing what a poseur cartoon that car has become. > > > > I cut off a Diablo on my way to work the other morning. The guy was so > busy talking on his phone he didn't even notice. > > Dork. > > - Mark > '95 M3 > '97 528i 5-spd > E30 M3 WANTED > -- > Mark Dadgar > [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:51:55 -0500 From: "Holeman, David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Fiberglass Hi, Any recommendations on epoxy, silicone or other substance to bond two painted fiberglass surfaces together. David Holeman www.racepad.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 11:57:28 -0400 From: "Smith, Robert III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 1984 533I Fuel Pump Follow-up Changed out the transfer pump as outlined in the Bentley. I can now hear a distinctive "buzz" "hum" etc. as the transfer pump does its job. I have to say that looking at those exposed copper filaments on the new and old pump makes one a little nervous. The thought of having something electric spinning in your gas tank is just a little unsettling. Amazing engineering. The main pump quieted after a full tank of gas and now that the transfer pump is in place it is back to its "un-noticeable" whirl of a noise. Of note, the noise that the transfer pump makes is a familiar sound. When I bought the car a little over a year ago the radio was bad and for a brief time I had nothing but the music of the engine to enjoy. I noticed a sound of some sort coming from around the right rear seat, I remember saying to myself it must be the fuel pump. Apparently that sound has been missing for a while as now that it has returned, I realize that I missed it. Thanks to all for your "sound", no pun intended, advice as I addressed my "noisy main fuel pump" problem. I purchased the transfer pump from Bav Auto 104.00, shipped over night for a total of 120.00 (Cost 140.00 locally). Completed the switch in about forty-five minutes. Took my time as working around fuel lines and wiring is one of those jobs I really take my time in completing. Robert Smith III ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #596 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
