[uucdigest] Thursday, April 13 2000 Volume 03 : Number 597 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] <E30 325is> Specs? [uuc] <E36> Tapping from Cylinder 1. Lifter Leakdown? Re: [uuc] <E28 M5> Running rich? [uuc] Re: E30 M3 rear sway bar Re: [uuc] 1984 533I Fuel Pump Follow-up Re: [uuc] Fiberglass Re: [uuc] <e36> How hard is it to run a wire down the A-pillar? [uuc] Schroth Harnessbelts [uuc] Air in brakes [uuc] M-technic [uuc] car rentals in UK? [uuc] Re: Cracked Radiator Outlet [uuc] Re: Strange video [uuc] <E36> Door latch adjustment and jacking question Re: [uuc] Re: Cracked Radiator Outlet Re: [uuc] Re: Strange video [uuc] Paintless Dent Repair, NJ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 09:20:17 -0700 From: Scott Catlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30 325is> Specs? I've been looking for specs on this specific model, yet haven't been able to find them. I looked on bmwe30.net and found specs for both the 325i (M20 B25 Motronic) and the 325 (M20 B27), but nothing that talks about the 325is. I know that the M20 B27 is the eta engine, so I know that's wrong. Is the M20 B25 Motronic in both the 325i and the 325is? I'm thinking that maybe the "s" in "is" only means sport suspension, body styling, and maybe interior mods. Am I right? Thanks for the help, I'm new and although I don't own a BMW yet, I'd like to be as knowledgable as possible when I do find the right one. - - S ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 12:19:56 -0400 From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> Tapping from Cylinder 1. Lifter Leakdown? John: I once saw a Detroit Diesel veteran diagnose a tapping (it would come in and go out, but this is not necessary) in the valve-train of a 1994 525i as a hydraulic lifter leaking down too early. A hydraulic lifter is like piston and cylinder arrangement. Oil pressure in the cylinder under the piston keep the piston top snug against the cam lobe as it rotates. Usually the oil is fed to the lifter cylinder under pressure and leaks out around the piston (which is not designed to seal pefectly to the cylinder). Try going to a heavier oil. Perhaps a 15W50 instead of 10W30 (if that is what you run). The heavier oil will flow out of the lifter slower (since the gap between the piston and the cylinder wall is the same and the oil is thicker) holding the lash to a lower value for longer, perhaps long enough to keep the clearance too low for it to tap. >From what I understand this is not harmful for the engine. It might cause some >non-design behaviour in terms of valve timing, but hydraulic lifter dynamics are >pretty uncertain anyway (which is why M engines have solid lifters) and the >difference is likely to be minimal. Neil Deshpande 1988 325 iS 1989 325 iC *** From: "John Tollefsrud" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "I'm hoping for some encouragement but fear the worse. My '94 325i with 120K, and a lifetime of Mobil 1 every 5K miles, has developed a tap, heard loudest near Cyl 1. I can find no evidence of a cracked exhaust manifold or blown manifold gasket from any angle, so I'm down to having to - what- pull the head? Is there a chance that something in the timing chain area would cause a tapping noise?" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:47:16 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28 M5> Running rich? Check the coolant sensor with an ohmmeter. Check the fuel pressure with a pressure gauge. Any check engine codes? Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > My '88 M5 is running rich, spewing nasty black stuff out of the tailpipe and > getting poor (even for an M5) fuel economy. I've had suggestions that it > might be the coolant temperature sensor or the fuel pressure regulator. How > can I test these parts? Any ideas on what else I might check? I did recently > replace the O2 sensor and the car idles fine. > > Thanks, > Malcolm > '88 M5 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:06:45 -0700 From: Randy Walters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 M3 rear sway bar Mac Hooke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >... and necessary mounting hardware, at a reasonable price. email me if you >have one or know someone who might. >Thanks all, Mac 87 325is I don't have a bar to sell, but i just wanted to point out that the only hardware you'll need to upgrade to the larger 14.5mm M3 rear bar is the two rubber bushings that attach the bar to the body. The clamps and endlinks are the same for both the 12mm and 14.5mm rear bars :-) There's a guy selling a set of E30 M3 swaybars on the Bimmer.org site: http://www.bimmer.org/e30/messages/messages/17218.html Randy Walters 89 325is DSP http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=153582&a=1200064 http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/msgboard/board.pl ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 13:05:38 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] 1984 533I Fuel Pump Follow-up Don't worry about an electric motor in the tank. There is no oxygen in there so there is no danger of explosion. First use was 1969 Buick Riviera. Chevy Vega was 2nd. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Changed out the transfer pump as outlined in the Bentley. I can now hear a > distinctive "buzz" "hum" etc. as the transfer pump does its job. I have to > say that looking at those exposed copper filaments on the new and old pump > makes one a little nervous. The thought of having something electric > spinning in your gas tank is just a little unsettling. Amazing engineering. > The main pump quieted after a full tank of gas and now that the transfer > pump is in place it is back to its "un-noticeable" whirl of a noise. Of > note, the noise that the transfer pump makes is a familiar sound. When I > bought the car a little over a year ago the radio was bad and for a brief > time I had nothing but the music of the engine to enjoy. I noticed a sound > of some sort coming from around the right rear seat, I remember saying to > myself it must be the fuel pump. Apparently that sound has been missing > for a while as now that it has returned, I realize that I missed it. > Thanks to all for your "sound", no pun intended, advice as I addressed my > "noisy main fuel pump" problem. I purchased the transfer pump from Bav Auto > 104.00, shipped over night for a total of 120.00 (Cost 140.00 locally). > Completed the switch in about forty-five minutes. Took my time as working > around fuel lines and wiring is one of those jobs I really take my time in > completing. > > Robert Smith III > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 13:08:11 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Fiberglass Use double side foam tape. For a permanent bond, grind off the paint and use a layer of fiberglass and polyester resin. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Hi, > > Any recommendations on epoxy, silicone or other substance to bond two > painted fiberglass surfaces together. > > David Holeman > www.racepad.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 13:26:01 -0400 From: Bill Graves <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36> How hard is it to run a wire down the A-pillar? Just one suggestion, I found it very easy to run a (fairly stiff, multiple conductor) wire down the A pillar without removing anything in the lining. (Under the dash was a different story.) By the way, this was to run an AutoLoc one-touch switch to my sunroof, which has worked very well. Obviously, YMMV. - Bill Graves '94 325is / M-Technic ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 13:27:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Schroth Harnessbelts Last Friday at the Summit Point Friday At The Track I used my Schroth Harnessbelts for the first time. My instructor said that he'd heard that the Schroth belts stretch too much and that the manufacturer recommended that you use the OE 3 point belt in addition to the Schroth belt. So we did that. At lunch I ate with some of the guys up for the NCC instructor day over at the Jefferson circuit and they said they'd heard the same thing. So... yesterday I contacted Schroth via their web site and asked them if their belts should be used with the OE 3 point belt and this is the response I received (used with permission): - ------------------------ Forwarded Message ------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 07:46:01 -0400 From: Joe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Belts Joel, The exact opposite is true. NEVER wear two different harness systems at the same time! Each system is designed to work in its own way. Each has different elongation factors for the webbing and different ways to keep you positioned in the seat. By combining two different systems, the results in an incident are totally unpredictable and could result in an even greater injury. I would be pleased to speak with the person who told you this so that we can stop such unsafe information from spreading. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. Thanks, Joe Marko HMS motorsport 3 First Ave - Peabody, MA 01960 Phone: 978-532-1170 / FAX: 978-532-2016 http://www.hmsmotorsport.com - -------------------- End of Forwarded Message -------------------- - -- Joel Gallun '93 525iT '87 325iS CCA National Capital Chapter SCCA WDC ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:46:54 -0700 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Air in brakes Bill, You have bubbles in the brakes and speedbleeders. See any connection there? - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:50:35 -0700 (PDT) From: t k <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] M-technic Hey guys, Does anybody know where I can find info on the E30 M-technic option. I'm thinking of converting my E30 into a M-technic replica. Just wondering if anybody could point me in the right direction. Regards, Tarek '90 325i __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 12:52:17 -0500 From: "Fadeev, Alex" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] car rentals in UK? Folks, I will be in the UK in a months' time and will be renting a car for a few trips. Can any of the UK based digesters suggest a good place to rent a car near London (other then Hertz at the airport;-)? Money concerns are secondary to the fun factor. Particularly if I could rent something in the 3-series size that is not available in the US (Alfa 156/convertible/etc)! Any suggestions would be most appreciated, TIA, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 11:54:37 PDT From: "Manuel Paredes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Cracked Radiator Outlet >I just had a strange thing happen with my 1990 535i. >I thought my upper radiator hose was loose, but when I >went to tighten the clamp, the whole hose came loose! >It turns out that the hose outlet (driver's side, top >of the radiator) had broken in half! Now, the hosewon't fit on >anymore. >I'm taking steps to get it fixed (likely a new top), >but wonder if anyone else has ever had this happen. >Thanks!Michael Menard Michael This happened to me with my 325i. The best thing to do is buy a whole new radiator. And while your at it change your hoses and check your water pump and thermostat to see if they need changing too. Good luck! Manuel Paredes 95 325i sharked, X-ed, M3mflrd L.A. BMWCCA ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 15:02:03 -0400 From: "Tim Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Strange video Jason gives his side of the story: "Yeah, there a couple of those "Dorks" in the western suburbs of Chicago that Drive, I mean cruise around in Diablos. Kind of humerous last Sat night, on the 4 lane 45mph zone buy my house, He sauntered up to me at the light. looked over and was reving the motor. (not that I mind as those Italian engines sound fabulos) but he keeps rocking the car back and forth looking over waiting for the light to change. The humerous part is I'm in my '85 Volvo station wagon. The light goes green and I'm expecting a firey burn out and all I here is a stumble and clunk! He stalled it. DOH! LOOOOOSSSEERR!!" Who you callin' loooooossseerr? You punk ass bitch. Insultin me an shit. I'm a get my glock and pop a coupla caps in yo damn ass if you keep dissin my shit in da public forum. You and yo silly ass Volvo. Word Up. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 12:08:55 -0700 From: "Boyd, David (Neighbour Boy)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> Door latch adjustment and jacking question Hi, I've got a couple of questions that I'm sure have been answered before, but of course since I didn't own an E36 I didn't pay attention, sorry if these are repeats. Here they are, these are for a '92 325i 4dr 5sp. Jacking. I know where the stock jack point are, but since my hydraulic jack and jack stands can't occupy that small space at the same time, I was wondering where the best place to jack with the hydraulic jack was so I can use the stock jack points for my jack stands. The front passenger door is very difficult to unlatch, from both the inside and outside. I've noticed that if I'm on the inside and pull the door a little tighter while opening, it unlatches more easily. Of course, from the outside if I do the opposite and push on the door while opening, it unlatches more easily. As I compare it to the door on the drivers side, it *looks* aligned properly and it seals well when it's closed, so it doesn't appear that the door is out of adjustment. Is there a way to adjust the latch itself, or the bar that it actually latches on to (is that called the strikeplate?)? Thanks much - --David Boyd ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 14:22:13 -0500 (EST) From: Moe Drippins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Cracked Radiator Outlet > >I just had a strange thing happen with my 1990 535i. I thought my > >upper radiator hose was loose, but when I went to tighten the > >clamp, the whole hose came loose! It turns out that the hose outlet > >(driver's side, top of the radiator) had broken in half! Now, the > >hosewon't fit on >anymore. I'm taking steps to get it fixed (likely > >a new top), but wonder if anyone else has ever had this happen. > >Thanks!Michael Menard > > Michael > > This happened to me with my 325i. The best thing to do is buy a > whole new radiator. And while your at it change your hoses and check > your water pump and thermostat to see if they need changing too. > Good luck! Common probem (I'm told) on E34's. In fact this vry thing is being discussed on another E34/M60 list. Happened to me too. New radiator in your future. - -- - -- Just Moe '95 540 6 speed, BL/SS BMWCCA Peachtree Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 14:58:11 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Strange video Oh Yeah! I've got high intensity washers on the bimmer, just get behind me with that $300.00 detail and lets see how good it looks then! Jason D - ---------- > From: Tim Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] Re: Strange video > Date: Thursday, April 13, 2000 2:02 PM > > Jason gives his side of the story: > > "Yeah, there a couple of those "Dorks" in the western suburbs of Chicago > that Drive, I mean cruise around in Diablos. Kind of humerous last Sat > night, on the 4 lane 45mph zone buy my house, He sauntered up to me at the > light. looked over and was reving the motor. (not that I mind as those > Italian engines sound fabulos) but he keeps rocking the car back and forth > looking over waiting for the light to change. The humerous part is I'm in > my '85 Volvo station wagon. The light goes green and I'm expecting a firey > burn out and all I here is a stumble and clunk! He stalled it. DOH! > LOOOOOSSSEERR!!" > > Who you callin' loooooossseerr? You punk ass bitch. Insultin me an shit. I'm > a get my glock and pop a coupla caps in yo damn ass if you keep dissin my > shit in da public forum. You and yo silly ass Volvo. > > Word Up. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 13:23:04 -0700 (PDT) From: DAVE MALLON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Paintless Dent Repair, NJ - --0-846930886-955657384=:5627 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Mike, Could you post Brian Roemer's telephone # or email address. Thanks, Dave - --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. - --0-846930886-955657384=:5627 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <P>Mike,</P> <P>Could you post Brian Roemer's telephone # or email address.</P> <P>Thanks,</P> <P>Dave</P> <P> </P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br> Send online invitations with <a href="http://invites.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Invites</a>. - --0-846930886-955657384=:5627-- ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #597 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
