[uucdigest] Thursday, April 13 2000 Volume 03 : Number 598 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Re: [E30] 325i White guages *Group Purchase* Re: [uuc] <E36> Door latch adjustment and jacking question [uuc] <E36>FS Foglight Brackets L&R Re: [uuc] Fiberglass [uuc] Changing steering box. [uuc] <7er>Hydraulic Assist System [uuc] Re: spark plugs, off topic. [uuc] RE: <E30 325is> Specs? Re: [uuc] M-technic Re: [uuc] Pillar titles [uuc] <E36> Tapping Noise Re: [uuc] <E39>Shortshifter question ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 16:51:39 EDT From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: [E30] 325i White guages *Group Purchase* >From: Arnerich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] Re: [E30] 325i White guages *Group Purchase* >Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:52:09 -0700 > >Re: http://members.tripod.com/bimmersteven/images/whitedash.gif > >Are white "guages" with white pointers supposed to be better than gauges >with contrasting backgrounds and pointers? > >just wondering out loud, >Evan Yeah, and I think some people feel that white guages are "racing guages". There must have been some race team that used white guages for better night-illumination and it sparked a big interest about white guages being for racing applications (so people wanted 'em in their regular cars). Some cars have white guages from the factory (Nissan Maxima comes to mind). They're very easy to look at with the amber lighting and give the dash a sporty feel (in my opinion of course). Steve ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 16:13:14 -0400 From: Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36> Door latch adjustment and jacking question At 12:08 PM -0700 4/13/00, you wrote: > Jacking. I know where the stock jack point are, but since my hydraulic jack > and jack stands can't occupy that small space at the same time, I was > wondering where the best place to jack with the hydraulic jack was so I can > use the stock jack points for my jack stands. My solution is to use the jackplate from the Ultimate Garage <http://www.ultimategarage.com/special1.html> (scroll to the bottom to find the E36 jackplate). It's a nice solid piece that works perfectly. You slide the jackplate into the chassis insert and jack from outside the perimiter of the vehicle. I put jackstands at the factory jacking points and lower the car onto them. I leave the jackplate in with the cradle of the jack just barely touching it as one of my backups against jackstand failure (I'm a paranoid). I'm no expert, these are just the opinions of a raving lunatic. Standard disclaimers apply. Other helpful articles: <http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/tools/all_jacking_and_supporting_you r_car.html> <http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/tools/all_jack_it_up_with_jackplate.html> tom philip '94 325is -- with jackplate! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 18:04:40 EDT From: "Mike Tse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36>FS Foglight Brackets L&R I have a set of brand NEW E36 style OEM foglight brackets (where the foglight clips into (black in color, but you don't see them anyways)) forsale. Left and right brackets. $30 obo Each. I can get you the BMW part numbers, but these are the correct ones since I have the foglights, from the set, on my car. I'll pay for USPS shipping to US locations. - --- Mike Tse 96 328is BL/SS/ERK/RK X'd-Barbarian'd - -Shark Infested & Breathing Easy- ES-DTM BMWCCA NJ ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 17:24:29 -0700 From: richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Fiberglass small fiberglass repair kit at auto body supply,,,has everthing richard, scot exiled in texas Holeman, David wrote: > > Hi, > > Any recommendations on epoxy, silicone or other substance to bond two > painted fiberglass surfaces together. > > David Holeman > www.racepad.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 17:22:32 -0500 From: "Dr. Randolph R. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Changing steering box. Hi digesters, I have benefited so much from your advice over the months that I feel that I should give something back: for those who may be interested, tips on changing out an E28 steering box a job I tackled last weekend. This is the mother of all PITAs, worse than changing a starter. - -The Bentley is spot on so follow its procedures. - - After siphoning/turkeybastering out the hydraulic fluid from the pump and brake system reservoir, disconnect the hydraulic line from the bottom of the box and turn the wheel back and forth quite a few times to empty the box itself. This fluid waited until I was under the car maneuvering the steering links to disconnect the drag link to piss generously on me. - - To disconnect the center link of the steering rods from the steering box drag link use a ball joint separator (rent or buy) and turn the nut from above using a long, long extension. - - The main source of swearing is holding a backup to the long bolt that attaches the box to the longtitudinal frame member. This nut is wedged between the nose of the box and the left engine mount. Do not (like I did) assume it is unreachable without removing the engine mount and waste valuable time with this complex operation as I hastily started to do. There is just enough space to reach it from below with an open end 19mm wrench using two fingers and inserting it between the bottom of the box and the cross member on which it sits. - - Replacing this bolt after the swap is even more cuss inducing. The washer has to be gingerly threaded on the bolt using long needle nose pliers. To get the nut in place try this: hot glue it on to a pry bar (around the outside of the nut leaving the threads clean) jam the nut/bar against the end of the bolt and turn the bolt from the other side to engage the threads. The nut breaks off the prybar when all the threads are engaged and you now can apply your open end to hold a backup. - - To separate the box from the universal joint, first spray the splines above the joint with WD40 to ease its passage up the steering shaft. I couldn't get enough space to separate box from joint until I loosened the steering column adjustment lock on the inside of the car and raised the steering wheel its highest elevation and relocked it there. - - Getting the box out (from under the car as Bentley instructs) requires patience and strength. Lying on your back with arms bent this sucker suddenly weighs a ton and has more arms and legs than an octopus. You need to push the center steering link/left tie-rod to the front to create the space. Then it's twist and turn and guide and bend and cuss and start all over again and be prepared to save your face or chest as it suddenly pops out and down. Oh yes, you need to disconnect the top hydraulic line and move it way out of the way because you have to move the box forward to make space to tilt it down. - - To install the new box make sure you clean and grease the splines (if it is from a junkyard as mine was) so that supporting the two-ton box with outstretched arms you can get the universal joint to slide easily at the weird angle needed to get the box in and engaged to it at the same time. The rest is pretty straightforward and I have used up enough bandwidth. Anyone who needs more info can email me. Randy 87 535is 89 735i ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 18:27:24 -0700 From: "Tony Adams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <7er>Hydraulic Assist System First my disclaimer. I'm new to the list, so I don't have much knowledge of recent discussions. I did search those archives that were searchable in hopes of finding the answer to my question before posting. I hope that I'm not asking a really repetitive question. Here we go. I've got a 1984 733i. First question, does anyone have a line on a good, trustworthy mechanic for these cars in the Central Florida area, preferably Orlando? I'm talking about the kind of guy that will seek out and find the problem, not just throw parts at it until it's fixed. There is a problem in the hydraulic assist system. I get intermittent power steering and power assist in the brakes. The brakes are usually hard at first, then soften after a few moments(as power assist kicks in). This alone would lead me to believe that the hydraulic accumulator (brake bomb?) is at fault and that I should have that replaced (how?). The part that concerns me is the intermittent power steering that goes along with this. Is this an indicator of insufficient pressure from the power steering pump? If so what is the proper pressure? How do I test that? The output line from the power steering pump goes into a part that for lack of knowledge I call a hydraulic distribution block (the thing that the brake bomb screws on to). Is there any way to test this part for proper functioning? I have removed it and am unable to find any obvious blockages. It has however leaked a lot of ATF that seems like it must be coming from the brake bomb that is still attached to it. How does one go about removing the brake bomb from this assembly, or should I bother? As I am sure that you are all painfully aware, parts for these cars can be difficult to find and expensive once found, thus my interest in finding and replacing only the culprit(s) in this problem. Thanks in advance for any insight into this problem. It will be appreciated more than you could know. - ----- Tony Adams 1984 BMW 733i 1970 VW Type III Squareback 1997 Plymouth Breeze (yuck) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 15:42:59 -0700 (PDT) From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: spark plugs, off topic. Felipe Payet wrote: > I guess I was lucky the engine didn't spit the plug > out the hole, taking the ignition coil and who knows > what else with it! Last year a co-worker asked me to take a quick look at his car (Hyundai) because it "wasn't running normal the past few days." I went out to the parking lot, popped the hood and found a spark plug completely out of its hole yet still attached to the coil wire. I tried the spark plug from my BMW toolkit but it didn't fit. So I just screwed it in finger tight and said, "there you go." He drove it for another nine months that way before trading it in! ===== David Kroth [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 16:45:32 -0600 From: Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: <E30 325is> Specs? Scott Catlin wrote: > I've been looking for specs on this specific model, yet > haven't been able to find them. I looked on bmwe30.net and > found specs for both the 325i (M20 B25 Motronic) and the 325 > (M20 B27), but nothing that talks about the 325is. I know > that the M20 B27 is the eta engine, so I know that's wrong. > Is the M20 B25 Motronic in both the 325i and the 325is? I'm > thinking that maybe the "s" in "is" only means sport > suspension, body styling, and maybe interior mods. Am I right? You're right: It's the "i" engine in a 2-door sedan with the "S" sport package. Externally, this includes front air dam and trunk lip spoiler, and 14x6.5" cross spoke wheels. Underneath, there's a limited slip differential and stiffer springs and shocks. Inside, S adds lots of buttons to the on-board computer, 6-speaker audio, electric steel sunroof, 3-spoke steering wheel, very adjustable leather seats, and maybe the leather wraps on the steering wheel and shift knob. I've probably included some wrong things and forgotten other stuff, and I'm confident others will correct me. - -- Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> '87 E30 325iS / CO plates "DAS KAR" BMWCCA #169277 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 18:54:31 EDT From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] M-technic The M-Technic body kit is NLA but you can still find it from dealers if you look hard enough. Someone with the mobile parts CD can give you the part numbers. It's gonna cost you thousands...I think $3800 was what someone paid recently. Steve '87 325iS >From: t k <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] M-technic >Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:50:35 -0700 (PDT) > >Hey guys, > >Does anybody know where I can find info on the E30 >M-technic option. > >I'm thinking of converting my E30 into a M-technic >replica. > >Just wondering if anybody could point me in the right >direction. > >Regards, >Tarek >'90 325i > > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. >http://invites.yahoo.com ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 19:35:29 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Pillar titles - ----- Original Message ----- From: Karl Zemlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Not an authority - but I play one on TV > A, B, C - from front to back. Does a touring have a D pillar? > Karl Zemlin Yes, it does. As applies to BMWs: A: windshield B: Z3 with removable hardtop: between door and rear window. coupes: between front door and rear side window. sedans/tourings: between front door and rear door. C: coupes: between rear side window and rear window (or hatch). sedans: between rear door and rear window. tourings: between rear door and rear side window. D: tourings only: between rear side window and hatch. - - Rob Levinson '88 M5: A,B,C '94 M5 Touring: A,B,C,D '90 Miata with hardtop: A,B ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 19:41:54 -0400 From: "Henry Caldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> Tapping Noise My '92 325i had the same problem. It was thought to be exhaust manifold gasket. In fact I had arranged to have the exhaust manifold gasket replace. While at Motorsport Connection open house, Bill Revis was kind enough to take a look and listen. He immediately concluded it was a spark plug. Well since I had installed the plugs, I felt it had to be something else. He had me pull the car in his shop. He removed the valve cover, determined which plug (#4) and torque it. Problem solved. I could hardly believe that this guy would not only give you advise on the problem, but was willing to fix it right there during their open house. What's even more surprising was that he did it for free. He said it was all part of their open house tech session. Incredible. At my last driver school I saw Billy help a friend out of very unfortunate situation with the kind of eagerness as if it was his own car. I feel it was about time I publicly thank him for helping me solve the tapping noise problem. Thanks Billy. Henry '92 325i (forever grateful to Billy Revis) > I'm hoping for some encouragement but fear the worse. My '94 325i with 120K, > and a lifetime of Mobil 1 every 5K miles, has developed a tap, heard loudest > near Cyl 1. I can find no evidence of a cracked exhaust manifold or blown > manifold gasket from any angle, so I'm down to having to - what- pull the > head? Is there a chance that something in the timing chain area would cause > a taping noise? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 19:42:25 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E39>Shortshifter question It's a vibration dampener originally found in the Z3. Basically, it's a large rubber ring with a heavy metal ring around it that absorbs vibration from the shift lever and adds useful mass to absorb the tiny resistances one may feel while moving the shifter through the synchros into a gear. No matter what, the UUC shifter gave at least a 35% reduction in gear throw in your 528i. Glad you like it! Regards, - - Rob Levinson UUC Motorwerks * www.uucmotorwerks.com * 732-398-0001 - ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Swingle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E39>Shortshifter question > I recently installed the UUC EVO Shifter on my 97 528i. Great product! Shift > is not incredibly shorter (the E39 is already pretty good) but feels very > noticably more "connected" to the trans. Installation using jackstands took > maybe 20 minutes. Now for the question - on the OEM shifter, strapped just > below the leather boot, was a weight maybe 2" in diameter and 3/4 inch > thick. I went ahead and reinstalled this on the new shifter, but I've been > wondering what it is supposed to do, and what the advisability/impact of > leaving it off would be. It is not mentioned in any of the documentation. > The weight has a BMW logo on it, so I'm assuming it's not some aftermarket > thing the PO installed. > Dave ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #598 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
