[uucdigest] Friday, July 13 2001 Volume 03 : Number 4013 _________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/bmw.html | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] E36-Wheels [Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] Re: [uuc] <E30> my nuts (was rollbar install) ["Carey Probst" <hcprobst@a] [uuc] whose nuts? ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]] [uuc] pad wear ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] RE: [uuc] OT - Sylvania HID is here ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert.] [uuc] Coolant Level ["Kevin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] revisions to E46 including new SSG gearbox [ben keyes <bkeyes1@ford] Re: [uuc] McLaren F1 powerplant ["Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] Re: [uuc] <E30> my nuts (was rollbar install) ["Gary Derian" <gderian@ame] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 05:31:33 -0400 From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36-Wheels I've got a 99 328is (E36), have upgraded to 17x8 ET44 (44mm offset) wheels with 235/45-17 tires, and am happy with the results. I believe wider wheels & tires would tend to rub the rear fender unless it was rolled, and the car would be "over-tired" as well (the M3 runs 17x8.5 stock rear wheels, but has the power to turn those wider tires). If you upgrade wheels, I recommend you stick as close to the stock wheel offset as possible. On my car it was ET46 (46mm), and your car is probably the same. The offset may be stamped somewhere on your stock wheels (check your spare if it's easier). 17" wheels and better tires make a very worthwhile handling upgrade, in my opinion. Good Luck! Dave Meyer 99 328is Lorton VA [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Folks, >I'd like to change my standard 15" wheels on my >4D '96 328i. I would like to buy 17". What can >I fit in width, 8 or 8.5? I like look of wider >on the rear. The new 540i and ///MZ3 set up look >good. I'm in the market to buy now! >TIA, Tom ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 06:26:45 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> my nuts (was rollbar install) Actually, depending on how you do the double nutting you are both correct. If you tighten nut 1 while holding a wrench on the other bolt end, then add nut 2 and tighten with the wrench still on the other bolt end, you may well overtighten the bolt. If done properly, tighten nut 1, put wrench on nut 1 and tighten nut 2, the 2 nuts bind without affecting the bolt. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, July 13, 2001 2:24 AM Subject: [uuc] <E30> my nuts (was rollbar install) > Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Double nutting does no good. > > Well, I've been double-nutted all my life, and I like to think that > second one isn't just there for show. :) > > > The second nut stretches the bolt and loosens the first nut. Use a self locking nut instead. > > Seriously, though, I don't buy the "stretches the bolt" argument. Seems > to me that the second nut just stops the first one from moving. > Granted, it's same thing that a locking nut accomplishes, but, if > anything, the second nut would stretch the threads inside the first nut > in the *tight* direction. > > To tell you the truth, though, I don't spend a lot of time thinking > about my nuts, maybe you have more experience with that kind of thing > than I do. :) > > Got a reference, or can someone else back up Gary's points? > -- > Mike Whitney - [EMAIL PROTECTED] > No Gum Racing - http://pws.prserv.net/whitney/nogum.html > 89 BMW 325is, more nuts and balls than I have > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 06:41:16 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] whose nuts? hmm, back to the "locktite" thread? pun intended. Self locking, lock washers, locktite, etc. are all available. I don't think that this is one of those real "critical" components that if one nut comes a little loose that the bar will fall off, so choose at will? Anyway, in response to Mike: The 2nd nut would "push" the 1st nut forward and yes that's toward the fastened object but it just transfers the strain to the threads of the second nut and "loosens" the 1st nut. I think if it was a "good" way of doing things you'd see more double nutted applications. Leaving evolution out of the picture that is. Oh god, there goes another thread - NOT. 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: Mike Whitney [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > > The second nut stretches the bolt and loosens the first nut. Use a self > locking nut instead. > > Granted, it's same thing that a locking nut accomplishes, but, if > anything, the second nut would stretch the threads inside the first nut > in the *tight* direction. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 06:42:46 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] pad wear Just a reminder that if your car "eats" pads the calipers may be sticking. Not every case but you might want to check. 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: Carlos Lopez [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > That thing ate thru a set of Porterfield R4S pads in one lapping day at > Gingerman. <sheesh> Remind me not to listen to other people's brake > recommendations. ;-) > > Carlos > 91 M3 on Hawk pads ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 06:57:13 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] OT - Sylvania HID is here Yes, the sealed beams if they fit are available soon. Not for the small headlights like I need though. It's mainly the fog light "kit". It has all the parts you would need if you want to "hack" a conversion. Or mount them like fog lights. Does anyone have interest in just bulbs and ballast's? I could look into how to get that, part numbers and distributors perhaps. I'll look into the group purchase thing to see what and if they can do anything. I get an employee discount but the warranty states you need the receipt and perhaps the serial number. The employee purchase states "not for resale" so I'd rather not get into selling them myself since warranty coverage could get a little hokey (which I don't need). Thanks, 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: Evan Arnerich [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 10:55 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris) > Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [uuc] OT - Sylvania HID is here > > Carey Probst wrote: > > >So, when do you organize the group purchase? > > > >Employee discount? > > Did I miss something on Sylvania's web site? I couldn't find any BMW > applications, unless you count the sealed beam replacements. > > Anyone? ... Anyone? ... Bueller? > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 07:09:01 -0400 From: "Kevin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Coolant Level Question: how the heck do you get the right coolant level in a 1995 M3? Background: Thanks to help from the list, my 1995 M3's radiator/water pump/thermostat replacement went smoothly. I've managed to hit this one hitch right at the end though and archive searches aren't turning up much. The Bentley manual refers to a bleed screw on the thermostat housing for the M3, I cannot find one. All of the internet write-ups I have found confirm that this doesn't exist, so I have been trying to fill'n'bleed using the bleed screw next to the fill cap on the reservoir. Here's the hitch: the procedures I have seen recommend filling the system with the car off and the bleed screw open until coolant comes out of the bleed screw bubble-free. Did that. Closed everything up and started the car (heater on) to get things moving. Air came out of system, level dropped, let car cool, repeated procedure. So, now I have a car with apparently no air in the system but the expansion tank is filled right up to the top with coolant (when cold). Is this supposed to self-drain to the proper level (overflow or bypass valve?) or do I need to somehow pump/drain it down to the cold mark? Running the car hasn't done the trick and I'm afraid of blowing up the system since it has no room for thermal expansion now. Thanks for the help, Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 08:28:56 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] revisions to E46 including new SSG gearbox BMW is freshening the E46 sedans & tourings starting this fall in Europe & likely filtering to the US shortly afterwards. there is a 3 page article in the 4 July issue of AutoCar which features a few official photos & there is a little bit of information on BMW's web site at : http://www.bmw.com/e46_3/en/int/substanz.html the most interesting bit is that there is going to be a 5 speed version of the SMG called SSG - Sports Sequential Gearbox. SSG has paddles behind the steering wheels & what looks like a traditional gearshift. SSG is to have only 3 manual shifting modes rather than the ~7 that the SMG has. there is no mention of whether it will include the full military launch mode of the SMG, but it seems doubtful. in the UK it's projected to be a �1,700 option as compared to �2,500 for the SMG. sounds like BMW is spreading the cost of development for the M3 down to the rest of the line. exterior revisions are limited to the sedans & tourings and include : � revised headlamps, hood & kidney grilles - headlamps are sorta like the spy photos of the new 5 series, but not as cat-like. they appear to include the "angel eyes" feature on the low beams as hte E39 does now. � revised front fascia - non-sport package car pictured is not very interesting looking, sport package one shown on the BMW site looks a lot like the M3's, which continues the trend shown on the E39 with a sport package for non-M5 cars having very similar appearance. � revised front fenders - character line ahead of the wheel opening eliminated, side marker light added on the fender at the end of the character line. � color keyed door handles & new rocker panels, deeper rear bumper & revised tail lamps - nothing really exciting here it looks like. for the UK market, suspension is revised, stiffer to bring handling closer to that of the Ci & ti variants & steering is revised to a new rack closer in character to the new ti's. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 08:32:40 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] McLaren F1 powerplant A few additional comments: The S38B35 has a duplex timing chain and larger tappets compared to the M88/3. Maybe more stuff. The S70/02 is effectively two Euro S50 engines put together with additional upgrades for the application. The 91mm bore center is common to all "small block" engines and the V-12. The "big block" engine has a 100 or 101mm bore center. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Steve: > > Sort of. The cylinder center distance was equal to > that of the M70 and S70 (91 mm). That, BTW, is how > the M numbers are arrived at. However, the head was > something like an S50 (Euro, not the US version OF > COURSE!) and the displacement was 6.1L. There were > some other cool features: > > 1. 12 individual throttle valves > 2. Infinitely variable inlet timing > 3. Two injectors/cylinder > 4. Aluminium flywheel > 5. Titanium secondary muffler > 6. Dry-sump lubrication with four scavenge pumps and > one pressure pump > > The output was 600 bhp and the weight was 274 kg. > > Because of these differences the McLaren motor was > called the S70/2, just like the early M6 motor was > called the M88/3, whereas the M1 engine was the M88. > The M88/2 was a race motor with some 800 HP, I > believe. The S38 came from the M88. The leap in > nomenclature was somewhat arbitrary, but the 8 was > retained as a reminder of the M88 origins. > > I believe the M88/3 was exactly the same as the S38B35 > motor (they changed the system of nomenclature just > then or something), with the exception of the clutch > fan, which was red on the earlier motor. The S38B36 > has several additional features over the S38B35 and > you can get more information on that at > http://www.bmwe34m5.com. > > Neil Deshpande > http://www.neilwerke.com > 1988 325iS - M20B25 > 1989 325iC - M20B25 > 1992 M5 - S38B36 (featuring collapsed tensioner!) > > *** > > "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Is the McLaren F1's engine a modified S70? > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 08:25:44 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> my nuts (was rollbar install) That procedure moves the 1st nut from one side to the other side of the thread clearance and stretches the bolt by that amount. Double nutting only makes sense if you want the bolt very loose. Then the only bolt stretch is between the nuts. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Actually, depending on how you do the double nutting you are both correct. > > If you tighten nut 1 while holding a wrench on the other bolt end, then add > nut 2 and tighten with the wrench still on the other bolt end, you may well > overtighten the bolt. > > If done properly, tighten nut 1, put wrench on nut 1 and tighten nut 2, the > 2 nuts bind without affecting the bolt. > > Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters > Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mike Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Friday, July 13, 2001 2:24 AM > Subject: [uuc] <E30> my nuts (was rollbar install) > > > > Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > Double nutting does no good. > > > > Well, I've been double-nutted all my life, and I like to think that > > second one isn't just there for show. :) > > > > > The second nut stretches the bolt and loosens the first nut. Use a self > locking nut instead. > > > > Seriously, though, I don't buy the "stretches the bolt" argument. Seems > > to me that the second nut just stops the first one from moving. > > Granted, it's same thing that a locking nut accomplishes, but, if > > anything, the second nut would stretch the threads inside the first nut > > in the *tight* direction. > > > > To tell you the truth, though, I don't spend a lot of time thinking > > about my nuts, maybe you have more experience with that kind of thing > > than I do. :) > > > > Got a reference, or can someone else back up Gary's points? > > -- > > Mike Whitney - [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > No Gum Racing - http://pws.prserv.net/whitney/nogum.html > > 89 BMW 325is, more nuts and balls than I have > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #4013 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. 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