[uucdigest] Monday, July 30 2001 Volume 03 : Number 4078 _________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/bmw.html | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] Failed emission inspection - HC ["Crawford, Scott" <Scott.Crawf] [uuc] E30 WTB... ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]] [uuc] RE:Oil viscosity ["KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] "removing plug wires from housing" tech answer ["David A. Leonard" ] [uuc] E30 and E30 M3 parts for sale [Chris Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] Re: [uuc] E30 WTB... ["Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads [Ryan Keefe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] Re: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads ["Daniels, Jason S" <JDANIELS@amfa] [uuc] Suspension R&R Help [Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] RE: [uuc] E30 WTB... ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert.fuerst@sylvania] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:45:10 -0400 From: "Crawford, Scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Failed emission inspection - HC Hi Jay, Sorry to be vague. Gary and Carlos are right on the money, I removed the wires from the plastic loom that runs alongside the valve cover and let them flop around. It does look like junk, and yes, I do need to replace the wires. Gary is right saying it will help for a time, already I'm seeing the earlier symptoms return. This step alone took my car from stinky, fumbling idle and not even close to passing inspection to very smooth idle, no stink and barely registering anything with the inspection station's sniffer. Huge difference. I'm more impressed with this 12 year old, 156,000 mile car almost every day. I really should treat it well and get it some plug wires, huh? Scott Gary Derian said: >If the plug wires are bad, keeping them in close proximity will increase the >chance of misfire. The best answer is to replace the wires. Separating >them will help for a while, and makes your engine compartment look like a 16 >yo's Camaro. And Carlos Lopez said: >Jay I believe what he did IIUTC <g> is he took the wires out of the >stock loom where they're all mangled together in BMW's little way of >packaging the wires. His wires were perhaps aged (beechwood aged?) and >there was some crossfiring between them. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:54:30 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 WTB... Travelling across an open grate bridge Saturday a piece of the bridge decided to come loose and throw my car into the side of the it. I have nice chunks now missing from my bottlecaps and also a nice crease in my rocker (kick?) panel where the metal strip hit it. The police said forget getting anything from PennDOT. My State Farm rep. states since I don't have collision he doesn't think he can do anything about it either. Anyway, I should have some photos tomorrow if anyone is interested. Also I'll be looking to purchase (2) 14" bottlecaps, with or without tires and centercaps (mine are OK but I am not sure if I can remove the existing tires without damage). Thanks, 1st ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:15:10 -0700 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE:Oil viscosity Clever Mike, I meant the E46, M3...... - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:13:41 -0400 From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] "removing plug wires from housing" tech answer Someone had asked why "removing the spark plug wires from their housing" would cure an engine problem. This is the answer: Spark plug wires carry somewhere in the neighborhood of 10,000 volts when the engine is running well, plug gaps are right, distributor cap and rotor are all in good shape, and the ignition wires are in good condition. If condition of these components deteriorates, the coil can put out up to 50,000 volts, which it will do if the electrical resistance is high..due to big plug gaps, corroded cap and rotor contacts, bad coil wire, etc. The insulation on these wires needs to be tight and non porus. As the rubber ages (and we of the $170.00 + ignition wire BMW club tend to age them rather than replace them if possible) the insulation tends to break down, and absorb moisture, which is a reasonably good electrical conductor. This will tend to let the electricity leak out before it gets to the spark plug..not good..electricity will take the path of least resistance to ground, which is usually the engine block. BMW puts their $170.00+ ignition wire set in a neat-o plastic housing so the wires run beautifully along the valve cover housing, with the wires neatly exiting above each spark plug. (on the L-6 engines). This keeps things neat, and makes it a little harder to mess up the firing order during tune ups and wire replacement..you still have to get the wires on the distributor in the right order. When ignition wires are run together in a common case, "cross firing" can occur. This is a situation where the spark energy takes a path from its intended wire, over to one of the ones next to it, thus either firing the wrong plug, or just shorting to ground somewhere else. If you cut the zip ties on the plastic cover, and separate all of the wires, and spray them with WD-40 to drive out the moisture, you can sometimes temporarily cure the engine mis-fire. In cases where this cures the problem, replacing the ignition wires is in order. Running the engine in the dark, looking for stray sparks, and listening for a snapping sound will also indicate if you have a high tension wire problem. If you don't have a problem with them, stuff em' back in the case, and Zip-tie the case back together. Inspecting plugs, rotor cap etc for corrosion is important as well. I like to take the plugs out and lay them down in order of the cylinders that they came out of. Take a piece of corrugated cardboard, poke some x shaped holes in it with your trusty Swiss army knife in a line, and label them 1-6, and stick each plug through it if you are really feeling your oats. Then get a Chilton's manual, and "read the condition of the plugs. (Look at the pictures provided to ALL automotive books by Champion) This can alert you to bad valve guide seals, rings, head gasket leaks, misfiring plugs, rich or lean mixture, and a variety of other problems. Also look closely at the inside of the distributor cap and rotor, looking for "carbon tracking"..electricity can leak through the top of the rotor, into the distributor housing, and Voila!, mis-fire. I had a SAAB turbo that used to like to do this on rainy days, when the boost kicked in. I think the combination of moisture, and high cylinder pressures raised the resistance necessary to fire the plug, and the worn rotor contacts made the shortest path to ground righ down the side of the rotor..you could see the track. By the way, if you figure this out by the side of the road, scraping the corrosion off the rotor and cap electrodes, and digging the bottom of the carbon track out with your jacknife may allow you to get her running for the ride home. If you have a girlfriend with lovely fingernails, borrow her nail polish touch up kit, clean out the track and paint some nail polish in it for insulation...hopefully you can get her running for the ride home as well!! ("See what a great mechanic I am honey".." Yeah right..if you would just buy a real car, like a Toyota, and be responsible instead of this old junk you INSIST on driving..we wouldn't be stuck out here in the middle of nowhere!!") With cars with cheap wires replacing them at short intervals like 40 -50 k miles is cheap insurance. Replacing your girlfriend at short service intervals also has it benefits. There is nothing however , cheap about this! Especially if your wife finds out! . Symptoms of bad ignition components include hard starting on wet days, misfiring under load, rough idle, etc. In my experience the high tension side of the ignition system causes more problems than any other part of the engine..if it won't run right, it is usually an ignition problem. I hope this explanation helps. Dave Leonard Owner of WAY too many ignition wires! No comment on the Girlfriends ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:20:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 and E30 M3 parts for sale All interior pieces (kick panels, door panels, front and rear seats, speaker deck, speakers, deck carpeting) from 89 M3 for sale--Tan leather in excellent shape. $1,200 takes it all. Will only ship at substantial expense to buyer. I'd prefer someone to pick it all up. Rear deck speakers (tan) $100 + shipping Front/rear bumpers from 88 325 $200 + shipping Stock airbox from 89 M3 $50 + shipping Chris P.S. Located in Los Angeles, CA. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:26:49 -0400 From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 WTB... 1st attacked by a bridge sez: > Travelling across an open grate bridge Saturday > a piece of the bridge decided to come loose and throw > my car into the side of the it. I have nice chunks now missing > from my bottlecaps and also a nice crease in my rocker (kick?) > panel where the metal strip hit it. The police said forget getting > anything from PennDOT. My State Farm rep. states since I don't > have collision he doesn't think he can do anything about it > either. Anyway, I should have some photos tomorrow if anyone > is interested. Also I'll be looking to purchase (2) 14" bottlecaps, > with or without tires and centercaps (mine are OK but I am not > sure if I can remove the existing tires without damage). > Do you have comprehensive coverage? That might apply. Also in spite what the cop said you might want to take photos of the bridge site and of the wheels and try PennDOT. I continue to be amazed at the very occasional rationality of local bureaucrats. Bill Matthews - with much bent wheel experience from Delaware potholes Hockessin DE 00 M Geeze some Volvos ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:30:22 -0700 From: Ryan Keefe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads Hello, Anyone have experience using the ATE Power Disc front rotors and PBR pads? I'm looking for a slight upgrade from OEM when I replace my brakes in a few weeks. Or does anyone have particular convictions to another brand as a OEM replacement for a slight performance upgrade (and not a ton of $ more than OEM)? Please respond directly to me, as this may be a topic already beaten into the ground...! Thanks in advance! =Ryan 1999 E46 323i ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:38:59 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads Great combo on the E30 I have run them for 3 years on the wifes 88 325ica. Very little brake dust. excellent in the rain and cold. just don't race with them. Jason Daniels - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Keefe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 12:30 PM Subject: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads > Hello, > > Anyone have experience using the ATE Power Disc front rotors and PBR > pads? I'm looking for a slight upgrade from OEM when I replace my brakes > in a few weeks. > > Or does anyone have particular convictions to another brand as a OEM > replacement for a slight performance upgrade (and not a ton of $ more > than OEM)? Please respond directly to me, as this may be a topic > already beaten into the ground...! > > Thanks in advance! > > =Ryan > 1999 E46 323i > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:47:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Suspension R&R Help Mike: Never done the E36 R&R, but I have some E30 experience that might help you at <http://www.neilwerke.com>. Neil Deshpande http://www.neilwerke.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:55:05 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E30 WTB... I took "normal" pictures. Today I am getting digital ones for PennDOT. They are mailing me a form. State Farm says nope on comp also. SOL. 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Matthews [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 1:27 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 WTB... > > 1st attacked by a bridge sez: > > Travelling across an open grate bridge Saturday > > a piece of the bridge decided to come loose and throw > > my car into the side of the it. I have nice chunks now missing > > from my bottlecaps and also a nice crease in my rocker (kick?) > > panel where the metal strip hit it. The police said forget getting > > anything from PennDOT. My State Farm rep. states since I don't > > have collision he doesn't think he can do anything about it > > either. Anyway, I should have some photos tomorrow if anyone > > is interested. Also I'll be looking to purchase (2) 14" bottlecaps, > > with or without tires and centercaps (mine are OK but I am not > > sure if I can remove the existing tires without damage). > > > Do you have comprehensive coverage? That might apply. Also in spite what > the > cop said you might want to take photos of the bridge site and of the > wheels > and try PennDOT. I continue to be amazed at the very occasional > rationality > of local bureaucrats. > > Bill Matthews - with much bent wheel experience from Delaware potholes > Hockessin DE > 00 M Geeze > some Volvos ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #4078 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Detailwerks Chicago Inc. "Chicago's Premier Automotive Appearance | Center" . http://www.detailwerkschicago.com |==================================================== | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com |==================================================== | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
