[uucdigest]           Monday, July 30 2001           Volume 03 : Number 4079



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

  [uuc] Emergency Suspension Help Needed!                  [[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] RE: M5 chain tensioner                   ["KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  [uuc] Thermometer query                                  [[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] Kumho tires               ["Davis, James L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  RE: [uuc] Here we go again... 325 AC kaputt            [[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] WTB: E30 w/5 spd in DC Metro Area  ["Noe, Steve (CIT)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] re: Towing to Ofest                                [[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] Re:  High mileage cars                             [[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] Re:  ETM (was Here we go again... 325 AC kaputt)   [[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] RE: Mobil1                               ["KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  Re: [uuc] synth oil query  ["Kim Henshaw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] E34 speedometer                         [paul t <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  [uuc] Suggestions/comments, buying 98M3  [Bryan Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] Two Post Lifts and Insurance for E30 M3s  [Brian Ghidinelli <brian@v]
  [uuc] <E28> '88 528e exhaust into '86  [Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:09:50 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Emergency Suspension Help Needed!

Hi Ed, camber plates either replace the upper strut bearings or provide a
new mounting point for the upper strut bearings.  They add negative camber
(assuming they're installed properly) by moving the top of the strut
inward.  If you autocross, run your car on the track or drive aggressively
on twisty roads, you will benefit from camber plates in a couple of ways:

1.  Helps reduce understeer.
2.  Gives you more grip by putting more of the tread on the ground in
turns.
3.  Reduces tire wear on the outside edges of the front  tires (if this was
already a problem).

If you mainly drive on straight roads, you will get less benefit from
camber plates and will find yourself wearing out the inside edges of your
front tires because of the extra negative camber.

Why is this an emergency?

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 17:58:11 -0400
>From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] Emergency Suspension Help Needed!
>
>I had my chief wrench Mike Radcliffe over and we successfully managed to
>dismantle the front suspension to the E28 M5.
>
>I have a set of Dinan camber plates to install and can't figure out how
>(or why?)
>
>How do they go on or in and what will they do for me?
>
>Bone stock except for Dinan wheels 17 X 8-1/2 with 245ZR17 RE1
>Bridgestones.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:18:46 -0700
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: M5 chain tensioner

Neil,

Could it be that there's so much Vasoline in the plunger that it's being bound
up and it is just a matter of more time before the hot oil puts it into
solution?

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 14:35:12 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Thermometer query

Thanks to all who responded to my query for a non-contact IR thermometer. 
Based upon the input I received I will not be purchasing one at the present 
time.
Michel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:51:27 -0700
From: "Davis, James L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Kumho tires

Gang,

Does anybody have any real-life experiences with Kumho tires?  I've been
researching them and they appear to be the deal of the decade in terms of
price/performance.  205 55 ZR16 are $72/tire at Tirerack, as opposed to
$160/tire for the Yokohama AVS Sports that are on my car now.  I have
absolutely LOVED the Yokos, but the Kumhos, at less than half the price, are
just too hard to pass up.  Any opinions?

Thanks,
Jim Davis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 14:59:49 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] Here we go again... 325 AC kaputt  

Joe,
       There is a relay under the sliding controls, floating loose (at least 
that's the way it was in Cassie, my old 318).  I was fussing around with the 
stereo and associated wiring, and just generally taking apart the dash one 
day to learn more about the wiring, when my hands wandered around a black 
cube laying on its side under the slider controls.  I pulled it up to see 
that it was a relay.  I don't know if this is specifically for the A/C stuff, 
but it is right there, so it is a distinct possibility...you might wanna take 
a look.

- --Brian Ruiz

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:51:54 -0400
From: "Noe, Steve (CIT)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] WTB: E30 w/5 spd in DC Metro Area

Got a friend looking for an E30 with 5 speed in the DC metro area.  First
choice is cabrio but will consider nice sedans and coupes.  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 16:08:50 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] re: Towing to Ofest

In a message dated 7/30/01 3:59:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, it was written:

<<   NJT to 287E over the Tappan Zee Bridge to 684N to 84E thru Hartford
 and up to the Mass Pike. Take the Mass Pike East to 495N (DO NOT GO TO THE
 INNER LOOP> Rt 128/I95 it's a nightmare)
 Take 495 N to 93N and get off at the Waterville exit. 495 is the Outer loop
 around Boston and will save you mucho time :-)It's also a more direct route 
>>

We're talking SUNDAY here, the inner loop is pretty benign then. Taking 495 
adds nearly 35 miles to your total distance as well. And you have all the 
tourists going to Cow Hampshire on a Sunday as well. You don't have to be a 
rocket scientist to figure out that 35 additional miles will add a 
substantial amount of time to gain little if anything on a Sunday. And, 
towing, use 3 gallons of fuel.

Michel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:08:25 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re:  High mileage cars

Mike, my guess is that the transmission will fail.  I've never heard anyone
say that their BMW automatic transmission lasted a quarter million miles,
but they say that about the engines all the time.  Replacing the diff or
the driveshaft are relatively insignificant compared to the cost of
purchase.  The '92 didn't have VANOS.  If it starts burning oil, use
thicker oil.  But when the transmission goes, the car stops.

If the seller has records, have your co-worker find out if the transmission
has been rebuilt in the last 50K miles.  If yes, then it will probably go
another 50K.  If not, expect that to be the next major problem.

But what do I know?

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:42:18 -0400
>From: Mike Whitney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] High mileage cars
>
>A co-worker of mine is looking at a 1992 325i auto with 195k miles.  He
>was wondering whether he could "get another 50k miles out of it".  Got
>me wondering:  What are the most likely drivetrain related things to go
>bad on high mileage E36 cars?  Rings?  Valvetrain?  Auto transmission?
>Diff?  Driveshaft?
>
>Let's assume that all the lesser wear and tear items have been addressed
>- -- brakes, suspension, water pump, radiator, hoses, water pump, etc.
>
>Any first-hand experiences or WAGs?  This is, and shall remain, a street
>car.
>- --
>Mike Whitney - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>No Gum Racing - http://pws.prserv.net/whitney/nogum.html
>97 Integra GS-R, 93 Miata LE, 89 BMW 325is

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:22:04 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re:  ETM (was Here we go again... 325 AC kaputt)

1.  Dealer (for newer cars)
2.  EBay (for older cars)
3.  Ads in the back of the Roundel (you ARE a BMW CCA member, aren't you?)
4.  Find someone with the manual who will let you photocopy it, although
that is probably in violation of copyright laws.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:08:44 -0400 (EDT)
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: [uuc] Here we go again... 325 AC kaputt
>
<1st's comments snipped>
>Where would I buy an ETM? I am about at that point.
>
>- -- Joe
>
>- --
>Joseph M. Krzeszewski                    Network Operations
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]                  Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:37:09 -0700
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Mobil1

My recollection is that the "new" Mobil1 Tri-synthetic still a has a polyol
ester component but now also is mixed with a hydrocracked component as well.
They may have changed the viscosity modifiers also as the viscosity index is not
lower.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 08:04:51 +1000
From: "Kim Henshaw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] synth oil query

That Mobil 1 is a "true synthetic"..........

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [uuc] synth oil query


> What part is the snow job?
>
> Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
> > I'm afraid then that you've fallen for one of the best marketing snow
jobs
> > in history. The guy who is now my business partner spent 2 years with
> Mobil
> > setting up their "synthetic workshop program" here so you could say I've
> > learnt this from the horses' mouth, rather than the other end where the
> > marketing stuff comes out........... :-)
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Kim H
> >
> > > Kim from Down Under writes:
> > >
> > > << Now, on to Mobil 1. Did you know that this oil is NOT made from a
> true
> > >  synthetic base stock?? It is actually dino oil in disguise!! Which is
> one
> > of
> > >  the reasons why Mobil was involved in a court case in the
> not-too-distant
> > >  past in which it was LEGALLY determined that they are allowed to
market
> a
> > >  number of their products as "sythetic" - because they have undergone
an
> > >  elaborate transformation. However, the truth is that the base
material
> is
> > >  still crude oil. From my limited understanding of chemistry I believe
> > what
> > >  they do is turn the base stock into a gas then turn it back into a
> > liquid -
> > >  ask a chemist how, not me. The point is, a duck is still a duck even
> > after
> > >  its been roasted. >>
> > > Aherm,
> > >
> > > Call me Silly Sally, but I beleive that was CASTROL, and they argued
> that
> > the
> > > oil, a mixture of sythetic and dino blood, was a "Synthesis" or some
> such
> > > double talk. Maybe Mobil had the same problem, but they way I have
> always
> > > heard it -Mobil 1 has been and continues to be 100% synthetic. But I
use
> > > Amsoil so what do I know......
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > Jim Laing
> > > 84 318i EVO II
> > > 85 325e
> > > Dirty E30(s)
> > > www.DirtyE30.net
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:09:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: paul t <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E34 speedometer

Hi,

I have a 1990 e34 535I WITH ~100,000 miles on it, just
about 3-4 days ago my speedometer quit working,
everything else on the dash board works perfectly
fine, RPM, temp, and oil all works as normal, no
service or unusual lights on, just the speedometer
failed. i have seen signs of life, but usually quits
10 min into the drive when it does come back alive. i
live in Portland Oregon, the temp here in the summer
is ~80-90 but just this week is ~60-70, so i'm
thinking that COULD be a possibility...

The car is a daily driver, driven about 2hrs a day, no
race, don't drive the car hard, regularly maintained,
i do recall something like this happen before, maybe
couple of years back, but it only lasted for a day.
I�ve tapped, banged, sweared at it, but still shows no
sign of life, I researched online and the only thing I
could find was from older 3series.

Any suggestions on what it could be? Anyone
experienced this before? Any advice would be
appreciated.

Please email me directly.

Thanks

Paul


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:19:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bryan Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Suggestions/comments, buying 98M3

I am thinking of buying this car and wanted some opinions.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593671310

btw, it won't be purchased through ebay, but it has all the info.



TIA,


Bryan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:20:07 -0700
From: Brian Ghidinelli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Two Post Lifts and Insurance for E30 M3s

Two questions for the digest today:

1. Anyone have recommandations/experience with putting a two post lift in
their garage?  I'm looking at installing a lift in my garage and I like
the accessibility of the two-post lifts.  I wouldn't need to lift anything
more than a couple tons but my initial research indicates they typically
come in 3 and 4.5 ton models.  What's a good deal?  Anywhere you can buy
them used?  What is the installation procedure?  I assume having a
professional do that part is smart? :)

2. I just contacted my insurance company (Allstate), with whom I've been
very happy with my coverage for a 2000 328Ci (100/300) and 1989 Chevy
Beretta (my old car) - around $1400/year and I'm under 25.   I just
purchased a 1989 M3 which I plan to drive a few thousand miles a year
(mostly to track events but around town as well to offload some of the
miles from my 328Ci lease.  

I was shocked to find that my premium is going to move than _double_ by
adding the M3.   I'm driving fewer miles a year on the $38,000 6-cylinder
328Ci and a few more miles on an additional $7,500 (blue book at least)
4-cylinder M3.  How does that make any sense?  Granted, the M3 is a
"sports car", but it's a 1989 Sports car with a 4 cylinder (ignore my
chip, intake, and dinan cam ;).

Is this common list experience for an E30 M3?  Huge premium jumps? 

Thanks as usual, 


Brian
2000 328Ci
1989 M3

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:13:25 -0400
From: Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> '88 528e exhaust into '86

So... because I have an '88 528e exhaust system from the manifolds back, and an
'86 528e daily driver with a small leak in one of the down pipes, and two days
off, I decided to swap the systems.

Must swap: everything except for the O2 sensor. This includes the mount that
bolts to the tranny, and the manifolds (since the '88's are routed differently
than '86's... seems like just the rear one though... couldn't see any
significant difference in internal passage sizes).

More better faster: The down pipes of the '88 system are 42mm inside diameter,
opposed to something like 39mm inside diameter for the '86 part, and it's got
42mm dual pipes all the way back, opposed to a single 45 or 46mm pipe (kind of
rusty so it's hard to get a proper reading) of the '86. Plus, it's got two pipes
coming out of the (larger) muffler. Oooh. Ahhh.

Differences noted: Ha! I mean, really... ;)

Does anyone within driving distance of Cape Cod need an '86 528e muffler? I
guess if you're handy with a welder, and need a catalytic converter, you could
take that, too...  $50 for the set?

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #4079
***************************

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