[uucdigest]           Monday, July 30 2001           Volume 03 : Number 4080



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

  Re: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads  [Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <ro]
  Re: [uuc] Kumho tires                        [ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  Re: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads  [Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  Re: [uuc] Which Ofest route from the South?  [shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture]
  Re: [uuc] Two Post Lifts and Insurance for E30 M3s  ["Pat Donahue" <pat@pa]
  Re: [uuc] E30 and E30 M3 parts for sale  ["Ken Mental" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads  [Chris Pawlowicz <cpawlowicz@playgroun]
  Re: [uuc] E34 speedometer           ["Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  Re: [uuc] Sport Suspension or Not   ["Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  [uuc] Re:  High mileage cars             ["Mellinger, Ed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:44:16 -0400
From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads

ATE Power Discs are fine, although a better-quality material is what Balo
rotors are made from.  I have used Balos several times and have never been
able to warp a set (despite my "Warp King" title).

Balos can be purchased from Bimmerworld or The Ultimate Garage for most BMW
applications.

PBR is an excellent street pad, or you might try the Hawk HPS.

- - Rob

> From: Ryan Keefe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads
> Anyone have experience using the ATE Power Disc front rotors and PBR
> pads? I'm looking for a slight upgrade from OEM when I replace my brakes
> in a few weeks.
> 
> Or does anyone have particular convictions to another brand as a OEM
> replacement for a slight performance upgrade (and not a ton of $ more
> than OEM)?  Please respond directly to me, as this may be a topic
> already beaten into the ground...!
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> =Ryan
> 1999 E46 323i

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:02:50 -0400
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Kumho tires

we've been thru this recently on the list - check the archives at
http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest%40uucdigest.com/mail6.html

there is a nice write-up of one driver's comparison with your beloved AVS Sports
on Suzy Kraft's web site as well : http://www.bmw-m.net/Reviews/kuhmo_report.htm

with the savings you'll get on the Kumho's you can put money towards track time,
track wheels or something else you need for the car, tho the Kumho's might not
be the best thing for the track.



Ben
or you could buy used tires from people for 30� on the $1...


"Davis, James L" wrote:

> Does anybody have any real-life experiences with Kumho tires?  I've been
> researching them and they appear to be the deal of the decade in terms of
> price/performance.  205 55 ZR16 are $72/tire at Tirerack, as opposed to
> $160/tire for the Yokohama AVS Sports that are on my car now.  I have
> absolutely LOVED the Yokos, but the Kumhos, at less than half the price, are
> just too hard to pass up.  Any opinions?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 15:58:02 -0700
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads

Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> ATE Power Discs are fine, although a better-quality material is what Balo
> rotors are made from.  I have used Balos several times and have never been
> able to warp a set (despite my "Warp King" title).

I warped a Balo instantly when I lost a brake duct hose in the braking zone
of the hairpin at Laguna Seca (turn 2 - it's at the end of the longest
straight on the track, for those of you not familiar with Laguna).  But
otherwise I've never warped a Balo, either.  They're pretty good.

I have noticed very small stress cracks in my current set, so they'll
probably need to be replaced at some point, but they've been on the car
almost a year now, including about 5 200 mile track days.

- - Mark
  '97 Carrera S
  '97 528i 5-spd
  '88 M3, track car, soon to be a JS racer
- -- 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (home)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (office)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:12:08 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] Which Ofest route from the South?

>As I make this trip regularly from southeastern PA to Boston area,
>recommended route from the MD, DE area would be:

>Not Towing      - NJ Tpke (use 295 and hop on NJTP at Bordentown) to
>                 - GW Bridge (try to get here no later than 11:00am the
>earlier the better) to
>                 - Henry Hudson Pkwy to
>                 - Cross County Pkwy to Hutchinson/Merritt Pkwy to
>                 - 91 to
>                 - 84

>Towing  - NJ Tpke (use 295 and hop on NJTP at Bordentown) to
>                 - GW Bridge (try to get here no later than 11:00am the
>earlier the better) to
>                 - 95 to
>                 - 91 to
>                 - 84

>Rich Hall
>Pugnacious Motorsports 09

Ahhh, it's all come back to me now.  I used to make this trip (PA to
Hartford) at least once a month, but my brain was not working yesterday
when I was trying to plan the route (without the aid of a map).  I used to
take the Bordentown route (295 in NJ from Philly) and stop for cheap gas
before entering the TP system.

Thanks to all who responded (Steven S., Michel P., and Rich H.).  I'd say
I'm looking forward to the drive, but I'm really not.  I am, however,
looking forward to meeting lots of uuc'er's, and to picking up my new track
car at O'Fest.  See you all there, and some on the road, I'm sure.  Just
look for an Ford F250 towing a Black E36 M3, and honk as you pass me.  If
there are any UUC'ers looking to ditch their wives on track days, e-mail me
off list and maybe we can set them all loose together so they have some
pals to shop and sightsee with.  I know my wife would rather hang out with
some other wives rather than sit under the EZ-Up at yet another race track.

Shane Kleinpeter
Tarheel Chapter
'96 M3
'94 325i

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 19:22:13 -0400
From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Two Post Lifts and Insurance for E30 M3s

Experience no, but putting a twin post lift in after the garage is already
built means you need to find out how thick the pad is under the legs.  I'd
be surprised if it was thick enough.  Now, garage floors are intentionally a
floating affair; not attached to walls.  You can rip out the entire floor
and redo it right if you want.  If you do you can run all kinds of useful
stuff underneath it.  Want air and electric outlets at the edges?  Drop the
stuff in underneath.  Pop a hose bib out to the edge run under the floor
which won't get cold enough to freeze.  Add a heating system in the floor
while you're there (you did hit the lottery didn't you?) so you can be comfy
in the winter when you're laying on it.  Oh yeah, you won't be laying on the
floor if your ceiling is 12' or so.  Ne'mind.

Geeeze
'95 525iT - 4GTFUL
'91 Gold Wing - GEEEZE


From: "Brian Ghidinelli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> 1. Anyone have recommandations/experience with putting a two post lift in
> their garage?  I'm looking at installing a lift in my garage and I like
> the accessibility of the two-post lifts.  I wouldn't need to lift anything
> more than a couple tons but my initial research indicates they typically
> come in 3 and 4.5 ton models.  What's a good deal?  Anywhere you can buy
> them used?  What is the installation procedure?  I assume having a
> professional do that part is smart? :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 19:56:14 -0400
From: "Ken Mental" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 and E30 M3 parts for sale

Chris,

I'll take the airbox if still available. Does it include most everything I'd
need to switch over from a cone filter?

Thanks
- -Ken


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 1:20 PM
Subject: [uuc] E30 and E30 M3 parts for sale


> All interior pieces (kick panels, door panels, front and rear seats,
speaker
> deck, speakers, deck carpeting) from 89 M3 for sale--Tan leather in
excellent
> shape.  $1,200 takes it all.  Will only ship at substantial expense to
buyer.
> I'd prefer someone to pick it all up.
>
> Rear deck speakers (tan) $100 + shipping
>
> Front/rear bumpers from 88 325 $200 + shipping
>
> Stock airbox from 89 M3 $50 + shipping
>
> Chris
>
> P.S.  Located in Los Angeles, CA.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 20:11:54 -0400
From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads

Ryan Keefe (1999 E46 323i)sez
> Anyone have experience using the ATE Power Disc front rotors and PBR
> pads? I'm looking for a slight upgrade from OEM when I replace my brakes
> in a few weeks.
> 
> Or does anyone have particular convictions to another brand as a OEM
> replacement for a slight performance upgrade (and not a ton of $ more
> than OEM)?  Please respond directly to me, as this may be a topic
> already beaten into the ground...!
> 

ATE power discs may or may not be an 'upgrade'... they work well, look
neat, and don't hurt. They give you a good visual indication of rotor
wear also.

PBR pads are *not* an upgrade! Yes, they dust less, but they also don't
stop as well and fall apart under hard use.

BMW pads are messy, but work well all the time and only run into
problems with very hard track driving. You will be hard pressed to find
a streetable pad that works better than OEM! Pagid Sports are a little
bit of an upgrade but possibly even dirtier :) BMW pads are also pretty
cheap!

If you are easygoing on the street, don't do track or change your pads
for the track, the PBR pads work ok and are pretty clean.

If you want excellent brakes go with OEM. If you want
brick-wall-stopping, squeal-like-hell-when-cold, rattly brakes, there
are a whole bunch of track pads out there.

my vote, get the power discs and stock pads

Chris Pawlowicz
'89 325i - Pagid Sports, ATE power discs
'74 2002

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:43:40 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E34 speedometer

Does the OBC or cruise work?  If not, check the sensor on the diff. If so,
check the wires/contacts in the instrument cluster.

Not driving hard will not extend the speedometer life.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Hi,

I have a 1990 e34 535I WITH ~100,000 miles on it, just
about 3-4 days ago my speedometer quit working,
everything else on the dash board works perfectly
fine, RPM, temp, and oil all works as normal, no
service or unusual lights on, just the speedometer
failed. i have seen signs of life, but usually quits
10 min into the drive when it does come back alive. i
live in Portland Oregon, the temp here in the summer
is ~80-90 but just this week is ~60-70, so i'm
thinking that COULD be a possibility...

The car is a daily driver, driven about 2hrs a day, no
race, don't drive the car hard, regularly maintained,
i do recall something like this happen before, maybe
couple of years back, but it only lasted for a day.
I've tapped, banged, sweared at it, but still shows no
sign of life, I researched online and the only thing I
could find was from older 3series.

Any suggestions on what it could be? Anyone
experienced this before? Any advice would be
appreciated.

Please email me directly.

Thanks

Paul


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:47:03 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Sport Suspension or Not

It depends on the mileage.  If you are satisfied with the current handling,
why change it.  The E34 standard suspension is quite nice.  I would stay
away from aftermarket parts.  The factory parts are very nice and work
perfectly.

Factory M Technic springs and shocks will upgrade the handling with very
little loss of ride comfort.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> My '95 525i needs new shocks and probably new thrust rod rubber bushings.
> About $550 worth of BMW parts.  I can also change the springs to BMW sport
> springs and install sport shocks instead of standard shocks for an
> additional <$400 of BMW parts.  What I'm wondering is:  should I change to
> the sport suspension?  If the ride were to continue to be acceptable, I'd
> favor making the change.  But since the 525i is really more of a touring
car
> and most of my use of it is non-sport, I'm not willing to make a
significant
> sacrifice in comfort.
>
> I request feedback from others who have installed a sport suspension on a
> 5er.  What did it do for you when you were engaged in performance driving?
> What price did you have to pay when you were just driving about town or
down
> the highway?
>
> Any thoughts on BMW vs. aftermarket sports suspensions??
>
> Thanks for your comments.
>
> Brant Miller
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 17:31:43 -0700
From: "Mellinger, Ed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re:  High mileage cars

Re: mileage/life potential of E36's... a topic of interest to many of us.

Haven't had time to read the Roundel recently, but how has the Mr. Hack Mechanic (Rob 
Siegel) been doing with his '92?  Seems to me it was a high-miles job, and he was 
complaining that it never broke and gave him material for his columns.

OTOH Jenny Morgan sure doesn't have much nice to say about the E36!

Ed M
'93 w/ 110k 

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #4080
***************************

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| Detailwerks Chicago Inc. "Chicago's Premier Automotive Appearance
|  Center" . http://www.detailwerkschicago.com
|====================================================
| Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental
|      http://www.koalamotorsport.com
|====================================================
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