[uucdigest] Tuesday, July 31 2001 Volume 03 : Number 4082 _________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/bmw.html | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] '88 E30-M3 for sale (SF Bay Area) [Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoas] Re: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads ["Evan Arnerich" <arnerichdsl@hotm] RE: [uuc] E36M3 running rich.....O2 sensor? ["Ulf Bertilsson" <ulf.bertil] Re: [uuc] Two Post Lifts and Insurance for E30 M3s ["Evan Arnerich" <arne] [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling [Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] A/C questions: fresh or recirc? [Jay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] Re: Driving to Oktoberfest ["The Jacob's" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] <WOT> Code Red [BMWuuc Monitor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] RE: [uuc] brake problem...again ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert.fuer] Re: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling [James Muskopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] <E36> Coupe rear window seal ["Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <jayk@iscme] [uuc] <E36> front strut shaft bolt ["Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <jayk@iscme] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 21:45:01 -0800 From: Donna Seeley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] '88 E30-M3 for sale (SF Bay Area) Oh, no! Non-factory paint and warped rotors?!? Next you're going to tell us it's been on a race track! It's practically worthless with those mods, but I'll give you $5k just cuz you're a UUC'er. <BG> Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido," Cinnabar street car-->Pearl White track car-->Yellow race car > From: "Kelvin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > All, > I'm putting my 1988 M3 up for sale. > > It's white on black, with around 89,500 miles. I'm the 3rd owner. It > has the following "mods" on it: H&R Springs, ST Sway Bars, Bilstein Sports > Shocks, Eibach Stress bar, Offset bushings, and the alum. control arms. > That's it for the suspension I believe. It also has a Garret Chip in > it, Evo Cam Gear, Evo Airbox, and a Bolt-on Borla Muffler. Oh, and it > has the all important oil baffle! > > Other nic-nacs include, the Korman Intake manifold support (hopefully > it'll help stop intake manifold leaks!), the harder red alternator bushings, > Evo intake manifold gaskets (along w/ the M5 paper modification) within > the last couple of thousand miles. Original UUC short shift setup and > VDO oil pressure gauge. > > Other things include: Evo bumper covers, Evo door strips, Dead pedal > from an M5, and Momo Race steering wheel. The audio system consists of > a Sony Deck and changer, alpine EQ/x-over, Orion amp and an Alpine Amp, > pair of boston 5.2 pros seperates in the front, a pair of boston 6.2s > pro seperates in the rear, and 2 boston pro 8" subs (free air on the > deck. > > The motor is very strong, has good compression. > > And now for the bad: > It needs 2 new front rotors (or needs to be machined, as these puppies > (evo rotors)have less then 5k on them!). I keep warping them -- I think > it's because of where I live, I don't brake until late at the exit, and > I don't live far enough from the exit to sufficiently cool down the rotors > before I park. (that's my theory anyhow! and I'm stickig to it) > > Also, the previous dofus owner repainted the car! So it's not the original > paint. He had gotten into a minor fender bender (it's straight, I had > 2 different body shops measure it out for me), and had the shop reshoot > the car instead of just that fender area. It's the orignial fender still, > it was not replaced. > > I think that's it for now. I'm located in the SF Bay area. If you have > any questions, please let me know. Digital Pics are also available upon > request. > > > -- > Kelvin > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 05:44:26 +0000 From: "Evan Arnerich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] ATE Power Discs and PBR pads Ryan Keefe wrote: >Anyone have experience using the ATE Power Disc front rotors and PBR >pads? I'm looking for a slight upgrade from OEM when I replace my >brakes in a few weeks. >Or does anyone have particular convictions to another brand as a OEM >replacement for a slight performance upgrade (and not a ton of $ >more than OEM)? I've heard a good front brake upgrade for a 323i are the 328 rotors and caliper carriers. Steve Lilley ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) has done it with the OE parts listed below. You could substitute 328 slotted rotors from Ate, but you'll still need the carriers. Both cars use the same calipers and pads. Qty 2: 34-11-1-165-035 E46 328 Brake Carrier $125 list Qty 2: 34-11-1-164-539 E46 328 Brake Rotor $59 list Let us know how it goes. Evan _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 07:53:03 +0200 From: "Ulf Bertilsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E36M3 running rich.....O2 sensor? > My 95 M3(7/94 build date ) has performed flawlessly for 5 yrs > with only tune > ups and oilchange things done to it .....'til tonight . I > note a sudden > shift in the color/appearance of the exh pipes at rear of car . > Went from always clean and dry-looking to having wooly black deposits > ....which have already been deposited onto rear of car as > small flecks in > the 10mile drive home .NO indication on the OBC..no numbers > flashing , no > virgins singing ,no significant change on the famous miles-per meter. > > Am I looking at the 'classic' O2 sensor failure here ? Didnt feel any > different driving home -but plugged highways preclude > redlining it anyway . > > What's the Ford Mustang/Bosch O2 sensor-part number I need ? > Got it round > heah someplace but not to hand right now . This might help you diagnose it ? http://www.birrabrothers.com/tiger/e36/docs/all_o2sensor.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 06:11:12 +0000 From: "Evan Arnerich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Two Post Lifts and Insurance for E30 M3s >I just contacted my insurance company (Allstate), with whom I've >been very happy with my coverage for a 2000 328Ci (100/300) and >1989 Chevy Beretta (my old car) - around $1400/year and I'm under >25. I just purchased a 1989 M3 which I plan to drive a few >thousand miles a year (mostly to track events but around town as >well to offload some of the miles from my 328Ci lease. > >I was shocked to find that my premium is going to move than >_double_ by adding the M3. I'm driving fewer miles a year on the >$38,000 6-cylinder 328Ci and a few more miles on an additional >$7,500 (blue book at least) 4-cylinder M3. How does that make any >sense? You didn't mention if that rate was with full comp & coll on the M3. Since the M3 is only worth $7500 (for insurance purposes, anyway), one way to lower rates (YMMV) is to drop the comp & coll. They won't cover you in a competitive track event anyway. The above assumes you're willing to put the value of the M3 at risk if it's totaled (and it's your fault) or stolen. Do it only if you understand and can tolerate that risk. Just don't drop the coverage on the $38K car. Evan _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 00:06:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling Steve: It is almost certainly the fuel pump. An easy R&R. 1. Order new pump. $120-150. 2. Pull up on edges of back seat. 3. Remove oblong cover under pass. side. 4. Remove two elec connectors. 5. Remove level sender (4 6 mm nuts). 6. Bayonet out fuel pump. 7. Reverse with new pump. I would recommend an immediate replacement. There have been cases of cars being rear-ended when they lost power with casualties ensuing. Your SO is right not to be amused. Ours went near a Greyhound Station in Downtown Detroit. I had one overnighted that very day and put it in. Neil Deshpande http://www.neilwerke.com 88 iS - 130k miles on original pump 89 iC - 140k miles on original pump *** "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Our 1988 325iC has some sort of intermittent problem that occurs every couple of weeks. My SWMBO has lost faith in the car and won't drive it any more. I experienced the problem first-hand today for the first time. I was driving the car and suddenly you have no power, the engine is totally dead. The tach goes to 0 (with the clutch out and the engine turning over), the idiot lights all come on, the engine cranks fine, but no fire. Wait five minutes and it starts and runs fine. Doesn't seem to be load, heat, or RPM dependent. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:18:42 -1000 (HST) From: Jay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] A/C questions: fresh or recirc? hey gruppe...i was wondering which mode uses less energy...the fresh air option or the recirculated air option...or is there no significant difference between the two? i usually have the A/C set to cool the fresh air, and only use the recirc function when the air outside is dusty (constuction, etc.) or when i'm behind an E30 that wont pass a smog check (me: ducking and covering)! i'm guessing the recirc function will have to work harder if it's used before the air in the cabin has cooled off a bit...like if you park in the sun for a while an use the recirc option when the engine is up to temp...but then again, what do i know...BTW, car is a 97 M3... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 04:24:47 -0500 From: "The Jacob's" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Driving to Oktoberfest Brad, I'd cruise with you, but those bolts on my front plate are all rusted and frozen. Normally this would not be a problem, but Satch seems to have a problem with the Confederate flag displayed on the front of BMW's. So I better keep it home this year. ;-) Jacob > From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] Driving to Oktoberfest (Louisiana) > > I've been considering going to Oktoberfest. Several > things are making me think twice: > > First and foremost: Can my baby (the car) make it?!!! > 2) Can I get off work (from a job I haven't even > started yet, lol)? > 3) Will I have the money to stay in a hotel over > there? > 4) Will I be able to get a hotel over there? > 5) Will I be able to find someone to go with me? > > And maybe one or two other things that I can't think > off the top of my head. Now, to the point. . . > > Since I'm considering going, and since fellow Cajun > Harmon Fischer jumped into the conversation, I figure > I'll ask. . . > > Is there anyone in: > > a) North Louisiana or a surrounding area that would > like to caravan? > or > b) Louisiana or a surrounding area that would like to > meet me somewhere not very far from Louisiana to > caravan? > > I'm bringing the V1. We'll have to keep the speeds > below 100; I have a 528e ;-) > > Peace, > > Brad Couvillon > http://www.angelfire.com/biz/couv ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 03:23:32 -0700 (PDT) From: BMWuuc Monitor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <WOT> Code Red There will be no discussion of the "Code Red" worm on the Digest. No posts. The discussion of v*rus is a totally prohibited topic except for Ebola. ===== Your BMW UUC Digest Monitors Disregard the Spam which follows __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 06:43:35 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] brake problem...again Have you not touched the rears for some reason? And yes, there may be air in the ABS. 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: Timothy Shandonay [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > I posted this a few days ago....and got zero response. I did forget > to mention one thing so maybe you were confused. My work resulted > in absolutely no change in braking performance. > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 03:54:54 -0700 (PDT) From: James Muskopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling Replace the 5-prong "main" relay. I don't have my Bentley manual here at work, but I can look up its position if you so desire. Cost is about $12 from any Euro parts store or any place that carries Bosch electrical stuff. You can pry the old one open and clean its contacts with spray contact cleaner and fine emery paper, but get a new one soon. BTDT--friend was stranded in his 635CSi. JamesM [EMAIL PROTECTED] > From: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling > > I was driving the car and suddenly you have no power, the engine is > totally dead. The tach goes to 0 (with the clutch out and the > engine turning over), the idiot lights all come on, the engine > cranks fine, but no fire. Wait five minutes and it starts and runs > fine... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 06:21:18 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> Coupe rear window seal The gasket around the circumference of my rear windows is pretty loose, & comes up just from the pressure of the window when it's closed. I'd use something like 3M trim adhesive to glue it down... but I'm wondering if anybody has a better suggestion? - - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 46K ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 06:32:49 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> front strut shaft bolt I'm getting ready to add H&R springs & Bilsteins, and am wondering if anybody has any thoughts on how to remove the top shaft bolt from one of these front struts using hand tools. I've read this is 22mm, and that some have taken a .5" drive socket and filed flats to hold with a box wrench.... does anybody make a socket this size with wrench flats built in (like you'd find on a spark plug socket)? Or is there maybe another option? - - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 46K ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #4082 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Detailwerks Chicago Inc. "Chicago's Premier Automotive Appearance | Center" . http://www.detailwerkschicago.com |==================================================== | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com |==================================================== | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
