[uucdigest] Tuesday, July 31 2001 Volume 03 : Number 4083 _________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/bmw.html | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] E36M3 running rich.....O2 sensor? ["Pat Donahue" <Pat@patdonahu] Re: [uuc] <E36> front strut shaft bolt ["Gary Derian" <gderian@ameritech.] Re: [uuc] A/C questions: fresh or recirc? [nJay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] Going to Ofest from the south ? ["Joe Peng" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] Re: [All] Synth oil query - Long [Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] <E30> ECU compatibility [Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] viscosity and lubricity vs. pressure, film thickness, etc... ["Fuer] Re: [uuc] Re: High mileage cars ["Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] Re: [uuc] <E30> ECU compatibility ["Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]] [uuc] Re: <E36> front strut shaft bolt [Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] <E36> front strut shaft bolt [Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 08:16:39 -0400 From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36M3 running rich.....O2 sensor? <gasp> A page from Ulf with no WIMMEN! Geeeze '95 525iT - 4GTFUL '91 Gold Wing - GEEEZE From: "Ulf Bertilsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > This might help you diagnose it ? > > http://www.birrabrothers.com/tiger/e36/docs/all_o2sensor.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 08:34:22 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36> front strut shaft bolt Clamp the very top of the strut rod with vice grips. The very top does not enter the strut so slight nicks will have no ill effects. Loosen the nut before you remove the struts. That will make the subsequent removal easier. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I'm getting ready to add H&R springs & Bilsteins, and am wondering if anybody > has any thoughts on how to remove the top shaft bolt from one of these front > struts using hand tools. I've read this is 22mm, and that some have taken a > .5" drive socket and filed flats to hold with a box wrench.... does anybody > make a socket this size with wrench flats built in (like you'd find on a spark > plug socket)? Or is there maybe another option? > > - Kevin Jay > '96 328is, red/tan, 46K > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 09:13:32 -0400 From: nJay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] A/C questions: fresh or recirc? Jay (Hawaii?) wrote: > hey gruppe...i was wondering which mode uses less energy...the fresh air > option or the recirculated air option...or is there no significant > difference between the two? <snip>...BTW, car > is a 97 M3... Another Jay (Michigan) replies: I haven't performed an in-depth analysis of the 'energy usage' issue. I usually focus more on the fact that it's too g-d hot in my car and what's the fastest way to cool it down. 1. Sunscreens in the windshield when I park, to keep my dash and steering wheel slightly cooler. 2. Sunscreens out of the windshield before I move the car, to keep out of accidents. ;-) 3. When I start out, windows down until the interior has cooled down to ambient. 4. Then run up the windows and AC turned on full blast/recirc until my knuckles are numb. Then scale it back from there. My feeling is that the recirc will always be easier on the system and faster, as it is re-cooling the already cooler-than-ambient air, and so has minimal moisture/heat to remove. 5. And of course, for best results, always turn off the AC entirely when drag racing. ;-) Once you've decided on an 97 M3 as your daily driver, I'm guessing your choice of AC mode controls a very small fraction of the energy your machine uses. Stay cool. Jay '93 325is <fellow E36er ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 09:40:46 -0400 From: "Joe Peng" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Going to Ofest from the south ? Hi All: I'm looking for someone who can help me move 4 16" wheel/tires from Shelby, NC or nearby (2 hour radius) to Ofest. So if you got room in your trailer, please email me off-line. Thanks Joe ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 08:54:33 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [All] Synth oil query - Long on 7/27/01 11:15 AM, it was written (names withheld to protect the guilty) that: > Viscosity ratings do not directly correlate with "thickess". Umm, yes they do. In fact "thickness" (resistance to flow against a defined force) is the definition of viscosity. The original way of measuring viscosity was to time the flow of a defined amount of liquid through a calibrated orifice (no jokes...!) at a given temperature, the very measurement of thickness. The unit of measurement was the Saybolt Universal Second (SUS). The unit now used for absolute viscosity is the Poise (more often centi-Poise - cP), and for kinematic viscosity it's the Stoke (more usually centi-Stoke - cSt). Automotive oils are also rated on a relative scale compared with reference oils, based on an SAE method. This is the familiar 10W-30 type format. > Mobil 1 15W50 is thinner than dino 10W30. Not within the SAE's specified operating range (40C-100C) it isn't. By definition Mobil 1 or any other 15W-50 motor oil has higher viscosity (i.e. is thicker) at the measurement points (see table below) than any 10W-30 oil. Otherwise the term viscosity would have no meaning. (However regular oil tends thicken more at low temperature than synthetic does. So if you're pouring Mobil 1 15W-50 in your unheated garage in winter, it might be thinner than 10W-30 dino oil, if the ambient is low enough.) Since viscosity varies widely with temperature, it's important to specify how hot the oil is when measured. By SAE convention multigrade oils such as 15W-50 are shown with two relative viscosities: the first number is at 40C, the second at 100C. The meaning of "10W-30" is that at the 40C the subject oil has the viscosity of a straight 10 weight oil, and at 100C of a straight 30 weight. Here's some data: Mobil Drive Mobil 1 Mobil 1 Clean Blend TriSynthetic TriSynthetic 10W-30 15W-50 10W-30 ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Kinematic Viscosity ^^^^^^^^^ cSt @ 40C 68 120 59 cSt @ 100C 10.5 18 10 Viscosity index 145 160 147 Pour point -33C -48C -54C Flash point 200C 245C 243C One can see that the viscosity numbers for the synthetic and regular 10W-30 oils are very similar, with the 15W-50 higher, as you would expect. Note we're still talking about viscosity (thickness), which is only part of the ability to lubricate (lubricity). After all, molasses and a heavy gear oil might have a similar viscosity, but molasses doesn't lubricate all that well. I included Pour Point (the low temperature where oil begins to gel and stops flowing) to show one of the temperature extremes where synthetics pay off. Look at the difference between the two 10W-30 oils: over 20C of extra margin. Very low temperatures are where synthetic oils can be thinner than regular oils, and that's a good thing. SAE doesn't define motor oil viscosity at temperatures higher than 100C, but that's also an area where synthetics typically hold up better. It was also written that: > Now, on to Mobil 1. Did you know that this oil is NOT made from a true > synthetic base stock?? It is actually dino oil in disguise!! Umm, message from Cluetown: synthetic oils aren't made out of uranium. Oils are hydrocarbons, and hydrocarbons mostly come from petroleum stocks and natural gas (which is just low molecular weight dino oil). You start to get the kind of oil you want by any of three processes: 1) Distillation - separating out the existing oil fractions by exploiting their different boiling points. 2) Cracking - breaking up large hydrocarbon molecules by means of heat, pressure and catalysts, into smaller ones having the desired characteristics. 3) Synthesis - taking small hydrocarbon molecule building blocks and chemically assembling them, along with other ingredients as required, to make the oil you want. Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> correctly referred to this when he wrote: > If you reduce a duck to individual molecules, than break them up and > rearrange the parts, you can make something quite different from it. For those who are interested, you can find oil data sheets on the various manufacturer's web sites, such as <www.mobil.com>. For possibly more than you ever wanted to know about viscosity and other petrochemical characteristics, try <www.exxon.com/exxon_productdata/lube_encyclopedia/> Neil 96 M3 - Mobil 1 15W-50 summer ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 10:06:26 -0400 From: Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> ECU compatibility (this message crossposted to E30 list) I think I've found a donor motor to replace the blowed-up M20 motor in my E30. My only concern is that the motor had the 153 ecu. According to the (very helpful) chart at <http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com/dmeapps.html>, the 153 was motronic 1.1. My car has a 173 in it, which corresponds to motronic 1.3. The shop selling the motor claims that the 173 has superceded the 153 DME and that I can just plug my 173 DME into the 153 wiring harness and be right as rain or use my 173 harness as well as my 173 DME and connect it to the sensors on the originally 153-equipped motor. Can anyone confirm that the 173 is a true plug and play fit to an originally 153-equipped motor? Or do I need to find a 153 DME somewhere or an originally 173-equipped motor? Thanks for your help. tom '94 325is '88 325is -- the victim ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 10:08:21 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] viscosity and lubricity vs. pressure, film thickness, etc... OK, so, what are the pro's and cons of having your oil pressure be too high? Low flow rates leading to cooked oil? Maybe I should not be so nervous about filling up with 10W50. Thanks, 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: Neil Maller [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > that: > > > Viscosity ratings do not directly correlate with "thickess". > > Umm, yes they do. In fact "thickness" (resistance to flow against a > defined > force) is the definition of viscosity. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 09:17:10 -0500 From: "Daniels, Jason S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: High mileage cars They do run that long, my "old" 735ila that I sold to a friend a few years back had 92K on it at the time. It was serviced every 15K and the last 30k with red line synthetic. Since Feb of of 1999 he has added another 150K or so. The trans has been serveced more or less as frequently by him but with dealer trans fluid.(non synthetic) He is a med supply rep so most of the miles are on the highway and he does not drive it to easy either. I just guess some were build tighter than others. Jason Daniels - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Farrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 10:11 PM Subject: [uuc] Re: High mileage cars > Quarter Million Miles on an auto tranny? > > I just rolled 261,000 and still shifting as good as it > did when it rolled out of the factory. Same engine, too. > > Now if I can find some wood to knock on, otherwise it > will start slipping tomorrow! :-) > > Ron Farrell > Paragould, AR > 1988 735iL ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 10:26:41 -0400 From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> ECU compatibility Tom Philip writes: >Can anyone confirm that the 173 is a true plug and play fit >to an originally 153-equipped motor? > >tom >'94 325is >'88 325is -- the victim Confirmed. I installed a Motronic 1.3 brain into my '87 "328iS" when I built the motor. It's a direct plug-in. Steve in search of a solid E30 coupe chassis for yet another 'project' _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 09:26:39 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E36> front strut shaft bolt on 7/31/01 6:36 AM, "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I'm getting ready to add H&R springs & Bilsteins, and am wondering if anybody > has any thoughts on how to remove the top shaft bolt from one of these front > struts using hand tools. I've read this is 22mm, and that some have taken a > .5" drive socket and filed flats to hold with a box wrench.... does anybody > make a socket this size with wrench flats built in (like you'd find on a spark > plug socket)? You can buy strut nut sockets of the type you describe at many auto parts stores, however I've never found one in the 22mm size we need. I ground flats on mine with a bench grinder. Filing the flats would take a couple or three eternities. I bet you could take one to a machine shop and have flats cut for not too much. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 07:41:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> front strut shaft bolt Kevin: A most excellent question. The way I do it is to loosen the bolts a lot while the strut is in the car. The weight of the car prevents the damper from turning in the strut housing while I do this. Once the nut is loose (I keep enough threads engaged for it to be safe), I remove the strut from the car and proceed as normal. Jack Money and I once had to abort a damper R&R and put everything back because we failed to get this nut off. We had the strut off the car and could not put the torque to the nut w/o rotating the damper. Of course, if you have air tools, an impact wrench will do it in any situation. Neil Deshpande http://www.neilwerke.com *** "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm getting ready to add H&R springs & Bilsteins, and am wondering if anybody has any thoughts on how to remove the top shaft bolt from one of these front struts using hand tools. I've read this is 22mm, and that some have taken a .5" drive socket and filed flats to hold with a box wrench.... does anybody make a socket this size with wrench flats built in (like you'd find on a spark plug socket)? Or is there maybe another option? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #4083 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. 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