[uucdigest] Tuesday, July 31 2001 Volume 03 : Number 4084 _________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/bmw.html | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling [dstevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] RE: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling [Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@monmou] Re: [uuc] viscosity and lubricity vs. pressure, film thickness, etc... ["] [uuc] squeaky brakes [Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] emissions failure question and Portland OR help needed ["Shah, Anan] Re: [uuc] squeaky brakes ["Christian Els" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] hehehe, the king of the local rednecks ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)"] Re: [uuc] emissions failure question and Portland OR help needed ["Gary D] [uuc] FS: Selling RARE 98 M3 4dr/5spd ["Ahmad Hamzawi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]] [uuc] Recall not performed on new cars ? ["Deschodt, Gregory" <GREGORY.DE] Re: [uuc] squeaky brakes [Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 11:06:49 -0400 From: dstevenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling >Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:39:26 -0500 >From: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling This may sound like a long shot to you, but I would replace the main relay. It is in the relay box with the black cover not the other box that has the fuses. It is the only white relay. Even if you are wrong, put in the new one and leave it in regardless of weather it fixes the problem or not. this is a good spare to carry as the car will not run without it. It goes for around $20, get a new one. Thanks Don Stevenson/BMWCCA Boston Chapter 1988 325IS, (too much to list), should have stayed the street car. (Sharked) 1987 325IS, project, should have been the track car. (Sharked) 1988 Volvo 240 Wagon 5 Speed. (Green Wheels) ______ o/______\o (oo=00=oo) [ ]====[ ] **************************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee only and may contain privileged or confidential information. Unless you are the intended recipient, you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone any information contained in this message. If you have received this message in error, please notify the author by replying to this message and then kindly delete the message. Thank you. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 11:07:11 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30> Mysterious Stalling Having BTDT on an '87 535i (BOHICA!), I'll take a WAG: >I would appreciate some troubleshooting advice. Our 1988 325iC has some >sort of intermittent problem that occurs every couple of weeks. My >SWMBO has lost faith in the car and won't drive it any more. I >experienced the problem first-hand today for the first time. I was >driving the car and suddenly you have no power, the engine is totally >dead. The tach goes to 0 (with the clutch out and the engine turning >over), the idiot lights all come on, the engine cranks fine, but no >fire. Wait five minutes and it starts and runs fine. Doesn't seem to >be load, heat, or RPM dependent. The last time it happened to her, I >arrived to rescue her, jumped in the car, started it and drove it home. >I found the situation much more amusing than she did. Any ideas where >to start looking? It is hard to troubleshoot something which occurs so >infrequently. Thanks for any and all ideas. > >Steve Conner >Kokomo, IN 1. Replace the main ignition relay. It's the odd one with more pins than any of the other ones. These are known to go. Dunno exactly where it's located on an E30, but since the systems were much the same for the mid-80's cars, I'm sure you have one somewhere. 2. When #1 doesn't cure it - look for a used ECU. That cured BOHICA. 3. Oddball stuff I heard of - but never experienced: The code computer has been accused of causing this kind of problem. Not sure if you can just bypass it or not. Heard of ignition coils, but your symptoms aren't consistent with what I'd expect the failure mode to be. Most likely #1 (you hope! Relay is about $25). Also likely #2. FWIW - I took the old ECU from Bohica and resoldered every connection inside it (ex-electronics-tech). There were no obvious (burned, smoked, cold-solder-joints) failures. I then tossed it in the trunk as a spare (after making sure it still worked once..) When I sold Bohica I sold it to someone after giving them the complete history of it. AFAIK - it worked fine as their trunk spare, invoking Eilenberger's Law of Spare Parts "You will NEVER need the part you have.." HTH, Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 FOT2.A [EMAIL PROTECTED] NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 Friends don't let friends use Microsoft Outlook ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 11:02:53 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] viscosity and lubricity vs. pressure, film thickness, etc... 10W-50 isn't so thick. It starts as a 10W and just doesn't thin out as much as most oils. Too high oil pressure consumes power in the oil pump. It might cause the filter to rupture if 150+ psi but 10W-50 won't do that. Thicker oil, particularly a higher W number, will protect better. Synthetic or synthesized or whatever expensive oil will protect better at a given viscosity, and at higher viscosity will protect better yet. BMW recommends fairly high viscosity oil. 15W-40 diesel oil for old engines that leak or consume oil (my E30 325is) or 15W-50 synthetic (my E34 M5) or the BMW synthetic 5W-30 (my E34 525iT) should be good. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > OK, so, what are the pro's and cons of having > your oil pressure be too high? Low flow rates > leading to cooked oil? Maybe I should not be so > nervous about filling up with 10W50. > > Thanks, > 1st > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Neil Maller [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > > > that: > > > > > Viscosity ratings do not directly correlate with "thickess". > > > > Umm, yes they do. In fact "thickness" (resistance to flow against a > > defined > > force) is the definition of viscosity. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 11:09:24 -0400 From: Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] squeaky brakes the car: '86 528e the brakes: Balo rotors, Pagid street pads, stock everything else except for fluid which I bleed regularly with ATE SL DOT 4 and a homemade pressure bleeder like a good little citizen the problem: front brakes squeal under light braking (press a little harder on the pedal and the squeal goes away, but then my passengers end up suspended from the shoulder harnesses and my sunglasses fly up against the windshield So is there an anti-squeal shim kit available from BMW, or should I use backing plate goo? Has anyone ever had that stuff work for more than a week? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 08:19:19 -0700 From: "Shah, Anand" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] emissions failure question and Portland OR help needed Unfortunately I don't have the values with me, but my car is failing emissions for HC and NOx (I vaguely rememeber HC to be 11 vs the 1.5 limit and NOx just above the limit, CO very close to the limit), which should be fairly difficult to do. Has anybody else heard of this happeneing and what the root causer was? Typically if HC are high that points to a rich running engine while high NOx are more inline with high combustion temps/lean mixture. I am assuming both being high is pointing more to the cat than anything else. I just don't want to have a new cat installed and then kill it with whatever the 'real' problem is if the car continues to run rich. Other symptoms are that the car (95 M5 Touring) has very poor midrange throttle response and is somewhat down on power, and gets poor fuel economy. This is in Oregon with the I/M240 enhanced test. All I know at this point is that the O2 sensor and engine temp sensor are working, and that the dealer can't find anything else. If anybody knows of a good independent shop in Portland OR please email me privately. Thanks, Anand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 10:31:17 -0500 From: "Christian Els" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] squeaky brakes I've had pretty good luck with anti-squeal compound. Alternately you may want to bevel the leading edges of the pad material, this is less messy and often just as effective. For that matter, hit your FLAPS and get a Help! brand pad shim kit, they're generic and effective, although prone to flying off en route. Cheers, Christian Els - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Burns" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, 31 July, 2001 10:09 Subject: [uuc] squeaky brakes > the car: '86 528e > > the brakes: Balo rotors, Pagid street pads, stock everything else except for > fluid which I bleed regularly with ATE SL DOT 4 and a homemade pressure bleeder > like a good little citizen > > the problem: front brakes squeal under light braking (press a little harder on > the pedal and the squeal goes away, but then my passengers end up suspended from > the shoulder harnesses and my sunglasses fly up against the windshield > > So is there an anti-squeal shim kit available from BMW, or should I use backing > plate goo? Has anyone ever had that stuff work for more than a week? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 11:37:12 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] hehehe, the king of the local rednecks Forgive me if you've gone through this before but this is how I'd have to pick up the wimmen in my area. 1st http://www.kwyjibo.com/ispeed/mday98/image.htm?mday000.jpg ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 11:45:11 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] emissions failure question and Portland OR help needed 11 as in grams per mile, is way to high for even a pre-emission controlled car. Rich mixture makes high HC and CO. Misfire makes high HC with low CO. Check the plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Oh wait, you don't have those things. Well, plugs, then. How do the old plugs look? Is the engine and cat fully warmed up? To warm up the cat requires some hard driving. Don't shut the engine off while waiting for the test. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Unfortunately I don't have the values with me, but my car is failing > emissions for HC and NOx (I vaguely rememeber HC to be 11 vs the 1.5 limit > and NOx just above the limit, CO very close to the limit), which should be > fairly difficult to do. Has anybody else heard of this happeneing and what > the root causer was? Typically if HC are high that points to a rich running > engine while high NOx are more inline with high combustion temps/lean > mixture. I am assuming both being high is pointing more to the cat than > anything else. I just don't want to have a new cat installed and then kill > it with whatever the 'real' problem is if the car continues to run rich. > Other symptoms are that the car (95 M5 Touring) has very poor midrange > throttle response and is somewhat down on power, and gets poor fuel economy. > This is in Oregon with the I/M240 enhanced test. All I know at this point is > that the O2 sensor and engine temp sensor are working, and that the dealer > can't find anything else. If anybody knows of a good independent shop in > Portland OR please email me privately. > > Thanks, > Anand > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 09:59:40 -0700 From: "Ahmad Hamzawi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] FS: Selling RARE 98 M3 4dr/5spd Beautiful and RARE 1998 BMW M3 4dr for sale, located in Sunnyvale, CA. Here are the details: o 5 speed, silver, 50K miles o Keyless entry with alarm o Premium BMW rims (forged alloys) o Rear wing o Xenon headlights o 6 CD changer in trunk o AC Schnitzer rear strut brace o Titanium tinted windows o New rear tires o Dealer serviced, all records o This car has been babied and pampered. Never seen a car wash, always hand washed and detailed in and out. Asking $32,9K OBO. Must sell, getting MARRIED! Pics at http://dons.usfca.edu/~hamzah00/m3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 13:22:34 -0400 From: "Deschodt, Gregory" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Recall not performed on new cars ? Hi there, I picked up my wife's new 325i the other day, and much to my surprise, it overheated (briefly) 3 times that day, everytime when idling. The minute I got going again it was fine, but it hit the red zone once for about 15 seconds. Turned out - as I suspected immediately - that the infamous "fan recall" had not been performed on the car... I am wondering whom I should be mad at ? BMWUSA or the dealer ? What's the rule there ? The car was brand new !!! Being new to watercooled cars, I am wondering if I really did any damage - the water did get hot, apparently, but I doubt the oil had that much time to cook... Like I said the second the car was moving, the temps went back down to the middle of the gauge (impressive radiators). I wrote a letter to BMWUSA complaining that recalls such as this one should be performed on new cars before them being sold (took 45 minutes), but I am not sure what else to do... Do you think I did any damage ? any idea what do do now ? The oil seems OK (synthetic)... Thanks ! Greg. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 13:39:34 -0400 From: Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] squeaky brakes Christian Els wrote: > For that matter, hit your FLAPS and get a Help! brand pad shim kit, they're > generic and effective, although prone to flying off en route. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yikes! Instant 1.5mm of clearance between piston and backing plate. Um... I'll stick with the squealing, thanks. ;) ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #4084 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Detailwerks Chicago Inc. "Chicago's Premier Automotive Appearance | Center" . http://www.detailwerkschicago.com |==================================================== | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com |==================================================== | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
