[uucdigest]         Wednesday, August 1 2001         Volume 03 : Number 4092



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

  Re: [uuc] headlight question        ["Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  Re: [uuc] Re: Moly oil           ["Mike Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  Re: [uuc] Re: Moly oil              ["Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  Re: [uuc] headlight question  [Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  [uuc] <CA/Bay Area> Gasoline-octane, politics, and You  [Herman Chan <herm]
  [uuc] (E36) fog light popped out            ["Kittock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  RE: [uuc] E34 interior fan blower resistor  [Don Eilenberger <deilenberger]
  RE: [uuc] E34-Interior Fan / Blower Resistor Help  [Don Eilenberger <deile]
  Re: [uuc] E34 interior fan blower resistor  ["Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@h]
  RE: [uuc] <CA/Bay Area> Gasoline-octane, politics, and You  ["Bill Matthew]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 19:57:44 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] headlight question

The high beams have a different, single filament bulb.  BTW, I think this is
the best light setup for an E30, the early sealed beam brackets with a good
quality Euro conversion.  I say this because I have been disappointed with
both the Euro and DOT versions of the ellipsoid lights (E34).

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> From a musty, dusty corner of Gary Derian's mind came...
> >
> >I believe stock sealed beam lights are 55W so go ahead and plug in the
H4's.
> >The JC Whitney lights have been reported as cheap with poor light
> >distribution.  You get what you pay for.  The good lights are Cibie.
> >
> >Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> >
>
> Hmmm. I was really hoping for H4 conversions at $15 a pop. I should have
> known that it was too good to be true.
>
> Still, $200 worth of headlights... they would have to be really good to be
> worth it. Any problem with going half way? Get the Hella H4 conversions
for
> the lows (which you use most anyway) and then do the other half later.
Also,
> how do the Hellas handle the highbeams? Another H4 or is there a special
> highbeam model to convert that too?
>
> -- Joe
>
> --
> Joseph M. Krzeszewski             Network Operations
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 21:09:34 -0400
From: "Mike Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Moly oil

Hearing all this about adding moly to oils brings back memories of ARCO
Graphite oil. Anybody remember back then about 20yrs ago?
Supposed to be miracle stuff. I had a new Datsun 280Z and thought that I'd
give it the best oil. After a couple of years using this oil, it was taken
off the market, so I had to return to normal oil. Shortly after that, the
car began to burn oil, and had low compression in a couple of cylinders. Cut
a long story short-the rings failed and it cost me about $1000-out of
warranty. I got the parts and showed them to a couple of metallurgists and
mechanical engineers. Their theory and observation was that the graphite
plated itself on the walls and the normal oil no longer wet the walls like
it was supposed to-it just beaded up.The rings were also "coked" up and
probably would have failed even if the walls were OK. ARCO replied that they
had never had a problem, but it did seem strange that they would take a
popular item off the market for no good reason.

Anybody worried about this happening with moly? Similar stuff. I just stick
to synthetic oil(Mobil1) and stay way away from teflon, graphite, moly, and
any other solid lubricants.

Mike G

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 21:21:45 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Moly oil

Exactly.  That is why I don't use it in the engine, now.  I did once with no
problems, but I never disassembled that engine.  Perhaps a fine grade of
moly won't pack out behind the rings, but I don't know.  I do use moly in
the trans.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Hearing all this about adding moly to oils brings back memories of ARCO
> Graphite oil. Anybody remember back then about 20yrs ago?
> Supposed to be miracle stuff. I had a new Datsun 280Z and thought that I'd
> give it the best oil. After a couple of years using this oil, it was taken
> off the market, so I had to return to normal oil. Shortly after that, the
> car began to burn oil, and had low compression in a couple of cylinders.
Cut
> a long story short-the rings failed and it cost me about $1000-out of
> warranty. I got the parts and showed them to a couple of metallurgists and
> mechanical engineers. Their theory and observation was that the graphite
> plated itself on the walls and the normal oil no longer wet the walls like
> it was supposed to-it just beaded up.The rings were also "coked" up and
> probably would have failed even if the walls were OK. ARCO replied that
they
> had never had a problem, but it did seem strange that they would take a
> popular item off the market for no good reason.
>
> Anybody worried about this happening with moly? Similar stuff. I just
stick
> to synthetic oil(Mobil1) and stay way away from teflon, graphite, moly,
and
> any other solid lubricants.
>
> Mike G
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 22:13:43 -0400
From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] headlight question

Gary said:

>From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [uuc] headlight question
>
>I believe stock sealed beam lights are 55W so go ahead and plug in the H4's.
>The JC Whitney lights have been reported as cheap with poor light
>distribution.  You get what you pay for.  The good lights are Cibie.
>
>Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Some of the JCW lights are actually Hella - and very nice. At one
time JCW sold Marchals (no name in the catalog) - their 7" euro
was one of the best I've ever seen. Used it in several brit
motorbikes.. a vast improvement over the light-sucking thing
Lucas fitted to them.  Cibie are fine also - but given a
choice (and through the years I've had ALL of the 'name' brand
ones) I'd rate them (IMHO):

1. Marchal
2. Hella
3. Cibie
4. Bosch
5. or lower - Anything else.. (like Lucas or Piaa)


Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/
Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39
====================================================================
          "Parking lots are not an appropriate place.."
====================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 19:26:31 -0700
From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <CA/Bay Area> Gasoline-octane, politics, and You

Did anybody happen to catch the TV news report about why the octane 
ratings in our premium gas have been downgraded?  I was looking for 
another version of this story but I haven't seen the print press pick 
up on it.

I had most of my attention devoted elsewhere while it was playing, 
but my understanding is that with the switch in formulation from MTBE 
to ethanol, the current State transmission pipeline capacity is 
inadequate to handle the new gas while maintaining the same volume of 
gas overall.

So the result is that the oil companies(?*) have chosen to downgrade 
the octane in premium gas to handle the situation.  Correct me if I'm 
wrong.

To me, this is not good news, since my car already had slight pinging 
with 92 octane premium.  And I'm sure it won't be well received by 
owners of modified cars that can't be lumped into the "most normal 
cars" category.  It will even be more "fun" when the prices rise to 
$2.30/gal again.

This comes on the heels of the Shrub/EPA's decision to deny a waiver 
for the CA oil refineries to omit the oxygenate component in our gas 
even though they say that they can meet emissions requirements 
without it.  With the phaseout of MTBE, score one for the farm 
lobby/ADM.

Herman
The AutoLuddite(tm)

* I generally only need to buy gas once a month, and mostly use 
Chevron, which is now 91.  Small sample size doesn't take into 
account other brands.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 21:27:31 -0500
From: "Kittock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] (E36) fog light popped out

This weekend at a autocross school I took out a number of cones, one of
which popped out one of my foglights.  I tried putting it back in but it
appears the part that locks it back in is broken.  Can I just get this part,
or do I need to get a subassembly.

I guess sometimes the cones bite back!

Mark Kittock
'96 328i Sport

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 22:30:51 -0400
From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E34 interior fan blower resistor

Drew posted (and nice photos of doing it..)

>First you need to determine whether you have the nice cheap resistor pack, or
>the super-pricey final stage "sword".  Check
>http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Electrical/Sword.htm for a good
>illustrated write-up of what to look for, and how to replace whichever unit
>you have.
>
>Drew Zacharda
>'94 530iT (with new cheap resistor pack)

Have to check my TIS..

The use of a resistor pack instead of the sword started on 1/1990
for the E34.

The sword was officially called "blower end-stage".. I think
the poster said his car was a 1990, so I guess it will depend
on the actual production date.


Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/
Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39
====================================================================
          "Parking lots are not an appropriate place.."
====================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 22:07:58 -0400
From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E34-Interior Fan / Blower Resistor Help

Yessss... BTDT.. someone who is nameless or named "Thanks" asked:

>Anyone know the steps (installation proceedure) to replace a Blower Resistor
>(circuit resistor box) for the Interior Fan on my '90 525i? Please start
>where the darn thing is even located?
>Thanks

Put drivers seat all the way back. Look at your console. There is
a small carpet piece right about where your right knee would hit
the console.

Remove screw from carpet piece. Pull the carpet piece out.

Unplug the resistor pack. It's somewhere above the
gas pedal. Remove the resistor pack. You'll recognize it
since you'll have the new one in hand.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

BTW - what's your name?


Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/
Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39
====================================================================
          "Parking lots are not an appropriate place.."
====================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 22:59:52 -0700
From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E34 interior fan blower resistor

does somebody have a picture of what the two look like.

I had to replace what the mechanic called the sword on my 92 535.  it was
under the dash on the passenger side I thought.

anyway, just wondering, thats all

Mike
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Eilenberger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 7:30 PM
Subject: RE: [uuc] E34 interior fan blower resistor


> Drew posted (and nice photos of doing it..)
>
> >First you need to determine whether you have the nice cheap resistor
pack, or
> >the super-pricey final stage "sword".  Check
> >http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Electrical/Sword.htm for a good
> >illustrated write-up of what to look for, and how to replace whichever
unit
> >you have.
> >
> >Drew Zacharda
> >'94 530iT (with new cheap resistor pack)
>
> Have to check my TIS..
>
> The use of a resistor pack instead of the sword started on 1/1990
> for the E34.
>
> The sword was officially called "blower end-stage".. I think
> the poster said his car was a 1990, so I guess it will depend
> on the actual production date.
>
>
> Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/
> Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39
> ====================================================================
>           "Parking lots are not an appropriate place.."
> ====================================================================
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 23:15:16 -0400
From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <CA/Bay Area> Gasoline-octane, politics, and You

Herman Chan asks about CA Gasoline:
> Did anybody happen to catch the TV news report about why the octane
> ratings in our premium gas have been downgraded?  I was looking for
> another version of this story but I haven't seen the print press pick
> up on it.
I'm a long way from California so I don't get your news reports, but I used
to be in the gasoline additives (TEL) bidness so I will give you my take.
MTBE was one of the first additives used to replace lead in gas to raise
octane. At that time (late 70's) it was essentially a refinery byproduct. As
all the lead came out it became more popular because it was cheaper than a
lot of the alternatives. Enter the requirements for oxygenates and it
becomes even more popular still because it is also an oxygenate. It became
so popular that it was no longer a byproduct but had a significant
investment in its manufacture.

Then rightly or wrongly the Republic of Kalifornia outlaws MTBE in its fuel.
All that MTBE capacity is useless and there is not enough installed capacity
in alternatives (mostly ethanol) to maintain the total octane (regular +
midgrade + premium) for the market. Gasoline is one of those commodities
limited to a specific market area by transportation costs
(pipeline-->ship-->rail-->truck in increasing cost order) You can't lower
the octane of regular, because most cars won't run on less than 87(R+M)/2
but you can lower the Octane of premium because all modern cars will adapt
by retarding the spark if Premium is the required gas.

Oh yea and the other reason is that by most codified state definitions
premium is 91 and above. The only reasons refiners market anything higher
than 91 a marketing decision.

Bill Matthews
Hockessin DE - home of 93 octane premium, 94 available at Sunoco stations
00 M Geeze
some Volvos

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #4092
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