[uucdigest] Sunday, January 12 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6012
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] <E30> lazy clutch pedal and cruise [uuc] <E30> lazy clutch pedal and cruise [uuc] Fixed E30 325i Wheel Bearing [uuc] Wheel Bearing, more [uuc] Re: Honda Element [uuc] Hellp! Brett(or anybody.... [uuc] Re: <FS> X5 4.6is Re: [uuc] <FS> X5 4.6is Re: [uuc] <FS> X5 4.6is Re: [uuc] <FS> X5 4.6is Re: [uuc] <FS> X5 4.6is [uuc] Koseis and Hoosiers for sale! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 21:22:03 GMT From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30> lazy clutch pedal and cruise > times, though I've never > flushed the slave cylinder. I would try flushing the clutch hydraulics if i were you, Bentley has the procedure (www.rb.com). It's not difficult, but I would recomend a pressure bleeder, I got mine from www.928gt.com (Porsche 928 parts), it works on BMW, Audi and Porsche, probably all German cars. With the clutch hydraulic circuit, make sure that you remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission housing and slowly depress the plunger with the bleed valve open, close the valve and slowly let out the plunger. When you re-install it _make_sure_ that the plunger is resting on the clutch release arm _as_it_should_ before you bolt it down, otherwise when you depress the clutch pedal you'll eject the contents of the slave cylinder into the transmission housing. Repair of this will require transmission removal. IMHO, with 225K on the car, if that is the original clutch master/slave/flexible hose I would think it's probably time to replace them anyway. How's your clutch? I am not sure agout your cruise control problem, my SWAG would be vacuum leak, however that opinion is probably worth about as much as you paid for it, I don't even know if E30s used vacuum to control the cruise. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 5 Spd 1995 M3 5 Spd 1979 928 5 Spd ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 14:59:05 -0800 (PST) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> lazy clutch pedal and cruise Clarence: 1. Clutch Pedal. Are you losing fluid? If not, it is likely it is the master, not the slave. When the slave leaks, via its one seal, it dumps fluid into the bell housing, the master can fail so that it simply does not pull fluid from the reservoir (no leak) or dump fluid on your foot (leak). Replaced my 88 iS master at 210k miles for EXACTLY the same symptoms. Easy job, but the trick is to assemble the master to the hard line inside the cabin, not try to put the line on from underneath with the tip of the master poking into the engine bay. 2. Cruise. No experience, but please report your solution. Neil Deshpande *** Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 09:46:45 -0600 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> lazy clutch pedal and cruise Car is the '87 325is w/stick and just turned 220,000. Coming back to Wisconsin on a car purchasing trip to Indiana, the clutch pedal decided to not come back up from the floor. If I lifted it w/my foot, the clutch pedal worked fine, at least until the next stop when at least once I would have to pull it back up. When it was staying on the floor, the clutch remained engaged. Am I looking at replacing the clutch slave? Might it be something else? Fluid in the resevoir is appropriate and brakes have been flushed many times, though I've never flushed the slave cylinder. Also, a minor issue w/cruise control on the same car. Cruise works; hit brakes, disengage, hit resume and it engages. BUT, hit brakes second time and cruise will not engage, either w/resume or by trying to restart it. The brake switch had been replace a number of years ago, but might it still be this switch or something else? TIA Clarence Wisconsin ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 16:04:34 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Fixed E30 325i Wheel Bearing Group, I finally got around to replacing my RF wheel bearing today. Well, actually, it was a multiple car, multiple owner group project. First we bled the clutch on Bill Gosma's new (to him) E39. He removed the BMW clutch engagement delay restrictor gizmo. Between my pedal pumping and his laying under the car opening and closing the bleed screw, it took a while to overcome complications, but we finally got it done. THEN we moved on to my wheel bearing. Last week I bought the bearing/hub, collar nut, outer dust seal and a new inner metal seal from Double 02 Salvage in Hayward (no affiliation). They charged me $90 for the whole package. Also, I borrowed a puller and 36mm socket from my friend Darrel, and a 250 ft-lb torque wrench from Kyle (thanks Kyle!, it worked great). The bearing R&R job requires a lot of jacking up and lowering of the car - onto the jack stand, back to the ground, back to the stand, back to the ground. You have to remove the wheel to pry off the outer dust cap. Then you lower the car to bang the bent collar nut tab out of the slot and break loose the nut. (I used my 18 inch 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, and didn't even have work too hard putting my weight on the bar to get the nut loose.) Then jack it up again to remove the nut, the brakes, and the hub/bearing. The old one came off with hardly any effort on the puller. Also, the inner race came out with the rest of the assembly. I fully expected the inner race to be stuck on the spindle. In fact, the whole reason I bought the inner metal seal was just in case I had to remove the old one to get the old inner race off. I left the old one. At this point it occurred to me that I never got a piece of 1-1/4 inch conduit to use as a bearing driver. We were prepared to make a run to the store, but just for the heck of it, I put the new bearing/hub on the spindle and just gave it a little push. It slid right on with virtually no effort. At this point we stopped while I asked, what did we forget? It had all gone too easily. Something must be wrong. Went back and re-read the Bentley. Nope, we've done it all per the manual, and there has not been one glitch. So we put the new collar nut on hand tight, put the brakes back on, put on the wheel and lowered the car to the ground. Tighten the nut to 210 ft-lbs, bang the collar into the slot, jack it back up again, remove the wheel, put on the dust cap (didn't bother with the Locktite, it fits very snugly), put the wheel back on, lower the car again. The only thing we did differently than the Bentley suggested was putting the brakes back on before banging the collar nut into the slot. Bentley says do it near last. Bill argued for doing it before torquing down the nut. The only reason I can see for waiting, per the manual, is that it might interfere with banging the nut collar into the slot, depending on the tools you use. It was not a problem for me. If I were to do this again, it would have taken no more than an hour. It took us a little longer, just because it was our first E30 wheel bearing and we kept wondering why some people said it would be more difficult. Still, the E39 clutch bleed took longer. Finally, a test drive revealed that the NOISE is GONE! I'm so happy that I can once again hear my tires, gears, engine and exhaust, the way BMW intended (except for the hole in the exhaust, that was not as BMW intended). Had I been drinking beer, this would have been a one beer job at best. OK, now to watch my tape of the 49ers game. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 16:40:08 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Wheel Bearing, more I forgot to mention, much thanks to the roughly 2 dozen of you who gave me advice and suggestions for the E30 wheel bearing job! It was all very helpful. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 17:53:29 -0800 (PST) From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Honda Element I just visited the Element at the auto show yesterday. It seems a fine car with plenty of room. It certainly has unique styling inside and out. > the black composite fenders "composite" equals plastic. And they scratch really easy. There were a whole bunch of marks in the one I looked at. Even put one there myself. :-O I'm not a big fan of the open-the-front-door-to- open-the-back-door thing. ===== David Kroth [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 20:04:14 -0600 From: "William Mitchell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Hellp! Brett(or anybody.... I cannot get the hood open on my wife's '97 740iL. I worked on the radiator today and then drove the car and was going to check the coolant level and can't get the hood open. The release in the passenger compartment releases, and I can get the lever on the grill uup but it won't release the catch on the passenger side of the hood. How do I get it to release? Thanks for any help. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 21:18:55 -0500 From: "Bailey Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <FS> X5 4.6is <A set of snow tires would easily solve his problem. Gary Derian> Not really; the 4.6is is fitted with 275/40-20 tires front and 315/35-20 rear as well as 14" front brake rotors. Haven't seen many Blizzaks or Pilot Alpins in that size... There is a special wheel/tire package available from BMW, but it's not cheap. BMW NA even says that the OE tire set up is optimized for summer performance. Bailey Taylor 1995 318ti Club Sport 1997 528iA 1993 Pathfinder SE "Gojira" 1999 Wrangler Sahara Light Campaign Assault Vehicle ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 20:59:54 -0600 From: "Bryan of AdminWorks, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <FS> X5 4.6is Easier said than done, Gary. Unless you have a tire making machine in your garage...they are something like 385-45-ZR20! You can't even put 19� wheels on this vehicle because of the large brake calipers. Nice job, BMW! Bryan >A set of snow tires would easily solve his problem. >Gary Derian >> I am a dealer but this vehicle is not being sold for my personal gain or profit... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 20:59:06 -0600 From: "Bryan of AdminWorks, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <FS> X5 4.6is Easier said than done, Gary. Unless you have a tire making machine in your garage...they are something like 385-45-ZR20! You can't even put 19� wheels on this vehicle because of the large brake calipers. Nice job, BMW! Bryan >A set of snow tires would easily solve his problem. >Gary Derian >> I am a dealer but this vehicle is not being sold for my personal gain or profit... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 21:00:51 -0600 From: "Bryan of AdminWorks, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <FS> X5 4.6is Easier said than done, Gary. Unless you have a tire making machine in your garage...they are something like 385-45-ZR20! You can't even put 19" wheels on this vehicle because of the large brake calipers. Nice job, BMW! Bryan >A set of snow tires would easily solve his problem. >Gary Derian >> I am a dealer but this vehicle is not being sold for my personal gain or profit... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 19:17:07 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol (BMW)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <FS> X5 4.6is What kind of calipers are we talking about here? Even the 14 inch pizza rotors on Porsche's fit under 18 inch wheels with the Brembo 4- (or 6 ) piston calipers? Did BMW manage to use a floating caliper on a 14 inch rotor. Bora On 1/12/03 6:59 PM, "Bryan of AdminWorks, Inc." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Easier said than done, Gary. Unless you have a tire making machine in your > garage...they are something like 385-45-ZR20! You can't even put 19� wheels > on this vehicle because of the large brake calipers. Nice job, BMW! > > Bryan > > >> A set of snow tires would easily solve his problem. >> Gary Derian > >>> I am a dealer but this vehicle is not being sold for my personal gain or > profit... > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 23:11:31 -0500 From: Jack Money <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Koseis and Hoosiers for sale! Ok, I bought brand new sets of Koseis last fall, Sept 2002 to be exact. Well, I'm moving to prepared this year and am moving up to 17" wheels to accommodate my brakes. So, I need to sell off all my 15" wheels. Here are the details: * I have one set which is brand new, never even been mounted! You might say they're virgin. ; ) They have 225/45/15 Hoosiers on them, sticker tires, never touched a track. This set is priced at $1200. * I have one set which is brand new but ran 8 laps at Mid Ohio in the fall. This was for a heat cycling only....make that a PROPER heat cycling only. The Hoosiers on them are 225/45/15 and as I said, are heat cycled for you, ready to go! Don't pay for heat cycling! This set is also priced at $1200. * I have one set of Koseis with Hoosiers (also 225/45/15) which I ran in the Sprint race on Saturday and the Enduro on Sunday along with 2 practice sessions....NO OTHER TRACK TIME!! The wheels have no damage at all and the tires are still competitive. My last lap of the enduro was a 1:44.894! In case you don't know Mid Ohio, that's f*&%ing fast in a JS car. Priced at $950, still have plenty of competitive tread left. * I have a set of stock wheels which have brand new, never run Hoosier Dirt Stockers, size 205/50/15. If it's raining cats and dogs you'll pass most other people with these suckers. The wheels are in good shape, no rust, straight and true. Priced at $775. These tires run $126/ea new, this is a good deal. All prices are plus shipping. I'm not really interested in dealing as these prices are below retail and the wheels and specified tires are basically brand new. You're not going to get a better deal on new stuff. Email me and buy my wheels to help support my JP habit! ; ) Thanks. Jack Money #86 JP M3...moving up in the world. ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6012 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
