[uucdigest] Thursday, January 16 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6029
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] E36 gray rocker panel repaint [uuc] Re: Test Only [uuc] Re: floor jack [uuc] <E36> M3 Sedan years of production? [uuc] RE: <E34> engine question RE: [uuc] <E36> M3 Sedan years of production? Re: [uuc] <E36> M3 Sedan years of production? RE: [uuc] Re: Test Only Re: [uuc] Re: E34 525i ellipsoid replacement Re: [uuc] Brake caliper rebuild help + Q's (E36) [uuc] radiator R&R [uuc] FS: '95 M3 Black/Black Re: [uuc] Oracle/BMW race [uuc] Anyone familiar with Prime Wheels? [uuc] RE: Brake caliper rebuild help ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 07:03:46 -0800 (PST) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 gray rocker panel repaint - --0-895448572-1042729426=:38082 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Sorry for the ambiguity - I do intend to paint these black to match the car, I just meant that exact color matching was not as important for black as for, say, Avus blue. The Griot's kit redoes it in the original gray? Eurowerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Griot's Garage sells a kit that is better than the factory and is incredibly easy to apply. Personally, I would have the rockers painted to match the car, to update the look of the car a few years... Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free - --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now - --0-895448572-1042729426=:38082 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <P>Sorry for the ambiguity - I do intend to paint these black to match the car, I just meant that exact color matching was not as important for black as for, say, Avus blue. <P>The Griot's kit redoes it in the original gray? <P> <B><I>Eurowerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]></I></B> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Griot's Garage sells a kit that is better than the factory and is incredibly<BR>easy to apply.<BR>Personally, I would have the rockers painted to match the car, to update the<BR>look of the car a few years...<BR><BR>Kirk A. Gilchrist<BR>EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair<BR>8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125<BR>[EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br> <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! Mail Plus</a> - Powerful. Affordable. <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Sign up now</a> - --0-895448572-1042729426=:38082-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 07:37:52 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Test Only >Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 13:04:11 -0800 >From: "Gordo, Ping" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] Test Only > >Just testing. > >P Oh, so you were just "Pinging" the list? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:54:53 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: floor jack Dave says > > Costco has a aluminum jack for $275..... ...which is basically the same as the $200 model from Harbor Freight (slight differences in the anodizing, etc.). It is surely the same manufacturer...US General. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:49:55 -0500 From: John Sabatini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> M3 Sedan years of production? What were the model years that the M3 was available as a 4 door? Was it only 1997 and 1998? Thanks, John Sabatini ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:08:43 -0600 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: <E34> engine question KMS Brett wrote about the M50 engine: > >This engine does have hydraulic lifters, and those lifters have been updated 4 >times since this car was produced. > >Lifter bleed down is common on the older cars, you can try using thinner, or >thicker, oil to see if the problem goes away, or you might want to think about >rebuilding the cylinder head at your "high mileage" and replacing the lifters. > Thanks. I didn't mean to be cryptic about the high mileage. It just turned 239K, which I think qualifies by most automotive gasoline engines. And unless I hear otherwise, I believe lifter bleed down, which results in clattering cold starts, isn't damaging the engine (assuming it only lasts a few seconds). Any head rebuild would have to wait until spring. Clarence West Bend, WI ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:09:22 -0500 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E36> M3 Sedan years of production? Yes. > -----Original Message----- > From: John Sabatini [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 10:50 AM > To: BMW UUC Digest (E-mail) > Subject: [uuc] <E36> M3 Sedan years of production? > > > What were the model years that the M3 was available as a 4 > door? Was it > only 1997 and 1998? > > Thanks, > > John Sabatini > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 08:19:26 -0800 From: Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36> M3 Sedan years of production? At 10:49 AM 1/16/2003 -0500, John Sabatini wrote: >What were the model years that the M3 was available as a 4 door? Was it >only 1997 and 1998? Correct, 1997 and 1998. You can tell the difference between those two years by looking for rear headrests, which were added for the 1998 model year. At least that is how I remember it. :-) - -- Rex Tener [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 17:25:44 +0100 From: "Ulf Bertilsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: Test Only > >Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 13:04:11 -0800 > >From: "Gordo, Ping" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <-! > >Subject: [uuc] Test Only > > > >Just testing. > > > >P > > Oh, so you were just "Pinging" the list? lol :) *holding back unix geek joke* - -- Ulf ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:25:32 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: E34 525i ellipsoid replacement The E code ellipsoids put more light down low to the left and in front of the car. The E code high beams are piercing narrow beams useful perhaps on the autobahn but not on country roads. I prefer the E code low beams and DOT high beams. E code lights use H1 lamps for both low and high beam and are all metal and glass construction. DOT use 9005/9006 lamps. Gary Derian > Having used both the E-code ellipsoids (original equipment on my > German-market E34) and the US ellipsoids back to back, I can > definitely say this is one case where the US lights are better. I > really can't figure out why, but the E-code lights has a narrower > beam and worse long-range focusing. The US ellipsoids looked like > what I _expected_ the E-code lights to look like, matching my good > experience with other chassis E-code lights. > > Save the money, get the US lights, and put in HIDs. > > - Rob > '94 M5 Touring > > ---- Original Message ---- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: E34 525i ellipsoid replacement > Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 00:19:06 -0500 > > >Roland, > > > >Not sure if you bought anything yet, but maybe 6 months ago I bought > >a > >used set of E-code ellipsoids from munichparts.com for about $250 > >complete (buckets, etc). I also bought some other stuff so the > >shipping > >was skewed, but I remember thinking it was reasonable. > >In any event, I was very happy with their condition (slightly > >flecked, > >but way better than the outgoing ellipsoids). > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:33:46 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake caliper rebuild help + Q's (E36) Do not drain the system. Stick a golf tee into the hose to prevent total drainage. Alternately, first fill the reservoir completely and seal it with plastic wrap. The vacuum will hold the fluid in the system. The caliper is a chunk of cast iron. Wire brush, bead blast, etc. Do the piston also, but do not blast the sealing surface of the piston. Also, do not blast the o-ring groove in the caliper bore. These areas need to have smooth finishes to allow the seal to move smoothly as the pads wear. Bench bleed the new master before installing, then merely disconnect and reconnect the lines. Gary Derian > > Group, > I'd like to rebuild my 1994 325is' brake calipers this spring before the track season, but the Bentley manual doesn't contain any information on this procedure. Does anyone know where I can find this information? > I'd like to tidy them up a bit too to remove some of the surface corrosion, perhaps paint them flat black. What are the no-no's for sanding these things down? Anywhere to be particularly careful? > Also, this will be my first time removing the caliper entirely, and the Bentley says to just unscrew the caliper from the brake hose. Will that cause complete brake fluid drainage out of the hose? > Is it advisable to completely bleed the system dry, and is that necessary to change the master cylinder? How difficult a job is a master cylinder change? > Thanks in advance, > Neil ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 09:30:30 -0800 From: "Gordo, Ping" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] radiator R&R Has anybody done a more detailed R&R instruction for a 1998 E36 radiator? I've got the radiator and the Bentley ready but I'm wondering if there are any gotchas that may have been documented and posted on a site by a fellow digester. OBTW, thanks for the tip on the HF aluminum racing jack whoever posted it. I picked one up last weekend and it has started service already. Love it; I just don't know what I'm going to do with the other two pos I have in the garage. Maybe I can donate it to the salvation army? TIA Pingger ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:36:18 -0500 From: "Richard Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] FS: '95 M3 Black/Black Two door, 5-speed, heated seats, OBC, ABS, power windows, doors, sunroof, remote entry, limited slip diff., factory rear spoiler with light, new brakes front and rear - Balo rotors w/ PBR Deluxe pads (no dust), metal water pump, new front struts and strut mounts, body and interior in excellent condition, no dings, paint is excellent, normal wear on drivers seat bolster, all records/receipts since new, redline synthetic in gearbox and rear diff., Mobil 1 15w-50 every 3-5k miles, always garaged, non-smoker, maintained by BMW enthusiast, 6-disc CD changer, Toyo proxy T1-S with less than 15k miles, must sell, have four cars, 85,000 miles, $15,500., [EMAIL PROTECTED], day 717-291-0652, evening 717-569-3775, Lancaster PA, pictures available upon request. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:19:10 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Oracle/BMW race "Steve Albrecht" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Is anyone else but me watching the Louis Vuitton Cup race? I am > really enjoying this series. The Oracle/BMW boat There is as much BMW as there is Oracle in that boat. Which leaves me with no known incentives to watch the event. I wish BMW AG had invested the $40?mil into some car related activity instead. alex f ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 13:27:37 -0500 From: Brandon Lindley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Anyone familiar with Prime Wheels? Found some wheels on eBay made by Prime. They tend to run at the low end of the price scale when new (at least this particular wheel -- model 119), so I'm curious if anyone has owned any wheels by Prime. Good, bad, junk? Thanks, Brandon T. Lindley '93 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 14:35:02 -0500 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Brake caliper rebuild help > From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] Brake caliper rebuild help + Q's (E36) > > Group, > I'd like to rebuild my 1994 325is' brake calipers this spring > before the track season, but the Bentley manual doesn't > contain any information on this procedure. Does anyone know > where I can find this information? Neil, I highly recommend: http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/caliper.htm for a great writeup. I just did this for the first time recently. The only tricky part was getting the dust boot on. The above writeup does a pretty good job of explaining it. Basically, you need to slide the boot onto the piston oriented the correct way (do *both* calipers and leave one piston in so you can refer to it as you do the other one), with the proper end of the boot hanging off the end of the piston. The lip on the hanging-off part then needs to be seated in the groove just inside the cylinder (I used the end of a plastic mechanical pencil to do that.) Then just slide the piston in (lubricate first with caliper paste or plain-old brake fluid.) As it gets almost all the way in, the lip on the outside edge of the boot will seat into the groove of the piston. When first popping the piston out, I found that if you let most of the compressed air leak out around the hole you're blowing into, you can better control the speed of the piston popping out. It still shoots out pretty quick once past the inner o-ring, so be sure to use the block of wood on the other side to cushion it. To get the caliper off, just remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and then spin it off the brake line. I did the procedure because my dust boots were a little torn, but I'm really glad I did because the inner o-ring (which is the only thing making the seal) was really gunked up. Make sure you fully clean out the old one and the groove it sits in. Note that unless you fill the caliper back up with brake fluid before you reinstall (I didn't see any reason to), you will need to pump the pedal a lot once you get them back on (in order to get fluid back into the caliper) before ithe pedal will start to get hard. At that point you can bleed (or flush the whole system, which might be a better idea.) Make sure that your reservoir does not get too low at any point in the entire process (including the period where the calipers are off the car and fluid is trickling out.) Finally, I tied a plastic baggie around the end of the brake line to catch the fluid while the calipers are off. Really helped reduce the mess. Good luck, - - Bill ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6029 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
