[uucdigest] Thursday, January 23 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6048
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts RE: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts [uuc] RE: [uucdigest] V3 #6047 [uuc] Re: Safety Devices Brand Roll Cages [uuc] Brett's projects, was Disabling Traction Control [uuc] Re: Aluminum Jack Maintenance -- check yours today! [uuc] Pelican Jackplate [uuc] E30 won't start - some questions Re: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 07:53:34 -0500 From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts Seems I just read in the roundel something about increasing the value to 100 ft lbs. It seem to indicate that this should be applied retroactively to all previous 80 lb applications...any ideas or feed back on that??? 80 seems to be fine for me. David - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of KMS - Brett Anderson Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 10:45 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts Yes, but FWIW, 71 ft lb is too low. Use 80. - ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support - ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Burtsky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Do I need to go back to watching my wheels installed or do it myself? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 07:53:54 -0500 From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts OOps. should have read this first...see my earlier post about the new info in the roundel. I actually use 80 ft lbs and use a small amount of LubroMoly LM-508 ant-seize on the threads, making sure none is on the taper seat. I have no problems loosening or being too tight to remove. David - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Burtsky Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 10:31 PM To: BMW Digest Subject: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts I changed over to my snow tires two days before the first snowfall here in Kansas City. This required standing on an 18" breaker bar to loosen the wheel bolts put on by the tire place I usually use. I went in and asked him if he torqued them to specs as I requested (71 +/- 7 ft. lbs.). He said he put them on at 100 ft. lbs.because he found that wheel bolts back out if he does not do that. I have never had a problem with this shop before and when I checked the bolts on my other car that he worked on they were torqued properly. My BMW rotors show no sign of warping. I have had wheel bolts back out that I had torqued to specs so I retorque wheel nuts after a few weeks of driving. Is it possible that the shop did indeed torque the bolts to 100 ft. lbs. as claimed? Is 100 ft. lbs. excessive? Could it be that the wheel bolts seized? (They are four years old and I never use grease or anti seize on wheel bolts.) Is the most likely answer here that there is an air wrench happy mechanic that does not have an wrench with a torque setting and is too lazy to use a torque wrench? Do I need to go back to watching my wheels installed or do it myself? Burt 98 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 08:15:22 -0500 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: [uucdigest] V3 #6047 Neil, I couldn't agree with you more. There is no doubt in my mind that short of a thick corrosion-resistant plating of a jewelry-grade precious metal, there is no way a finer jack pad could be made than the UG jack pad. Like you, I too appreciate the finer things, and in certain areas of my life will settle for nothing but the very best. Being a benevolent soul with a social conscience, however, I feel guilty depriving others of these pleasures. As such, I am willing to forgo the decadence afforded by my UG jack pad and relegate myself to a simple life with the strictly utilitarian Pelican replacement. To this end, I too am willing to accept offers from the masses for my UG jack pad. Offers substantially greater than say, $29.95 will be considered. ;) Kevin Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 23:39:40 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Pelican E36 Jack Pad on 1/22/03 8:50 PM, "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I ordered one last week. Always thought the $100 for the UG version was > insane. Maybe, but it's built like a battleship and will last several lifetimes. It falls into that category of things, like other good tools, fine kitchen knives or cookware, that are deeply satisfying to own and use because they're made that much better than strictly they have to be. That said, due to my collection of low profile jacks, I no longer use the UG Jack Pad that I've owned for several years. For sale for a reasonable offer. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 05:45:37 -0800 (PST) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Safety Devices Brand Roll Cages - --0-555216306-1043329537=:379 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Kevin, Have you seen these cages in BMW's? Do you happen to know who it was that owned them, if so? I'd love to hear from some owners to get their impressions. Overall, is it a danger to have an A-pillar bar that comes straight down by your shins instead of routing through the dash panel? I intend to use the cage in driving schools only for the next few years before upgrading to a custom weld-in if I ever go club racing. Thanks, Neil Kevin Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Neil N. wrote: >Appealing to club racers and other track drivers out >there, I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience >with Safety Devices brand roll cages. This is the brand >sold by Stable Energies out of New Jersey. When I first saw the subject line I thought someone had sent a Land Rover post to the BMW list (like I have done in the past)... Safety Devices is an OEM roll cage supplier to Land Rover and makes the external roll cages on all the North American Spec. Defenders as well as all competition roll cages for Land Rover. Everything I have seen from Safety Devices seems well designed looks good. I have never seen a car with a Safety Devices roll cage after an accident, but the Safety Devices roll cages in all the Camel Trophy Land Rovers held up after brutal rolls. Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 - --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now - --0-555216306-1043329537=:379 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <P>Kevin, <P>Have you seen these cages in BMW's? Do you happen to know who it was that owned them, if so? I'd love to hear from some owners to get their impressions. <P>Overall, is it a danger to have an A-pillar bar that comes straight down by your shins instead of routing through the dash panel? I intend to use the cage in driving schools only for the next few years before upgrading to a custom weld-in if I ever go club racing. <P>Thanks, <P>Neil <P> <B><I>Kevin Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]></I></B> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Neil N. wrote:<BR><BR>>Appealing to club racers and other track drivers out<BR>>there, I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience<BR>>with Safety Devices brand roll cages. This is the brand<BR>>sold by Stable Energies out of New Jersey.<BR><BR>When I first saw the subject line I thought someone had sent a Land Rover<BR>post to the BMW list (like I have done in the past)...<BR><BR>Safety Devices is an OEM roll cage supplier to Land Rover and makes the<BR>external roll cages on all the North American Spec. Defenders as well as all<BR>competition roll cages for Land Rover.<BR><BR>Everything I have seen from Safety Devices seems well designed looks good.<BR>I have never seen a car with a Safety Devices roll cage after an accident,<BR>but the Safety Devices roll cages in all the Camel Trophy Land Rovers held<BR>up after brutal rolls.<BR><BR>Kevin Kelly<BR>BMW CCA 50039<BR><BR><! BR></BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br> <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! Mail Plus</a> - Powerful. Affordable. <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Sign up now</a> - --0-555216306-1043329537=:379-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:01:15 -0500 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Brett's projects, was Disabling Traction Control And your jack stand adapters? Chris B. >Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 21:21:49 -0800 >From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [uuc] Disabling Traction Control ><snip> >Thanks, Brett. Much appreciated! >And is your oil distribution block ready yet?! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 06:10:15 -0800 (PST) From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Aluminum Jack Maintenance -- check yours today! Kirk wrote: > I happened to notice one of the handles was a bit > loose. In the process of > tightening it up, I decided to check all the other > nuts and bolts. They were > all loose, some almost falling out once you looked > closely. Good advice that really applies to any piece of machinery you have in your shop. Quality lift manufacturers like Rotary and Bend-Pac recommend you check all the nuts and bolts for torque as part of regular maintenance. ===== David Kroth [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:31:57 -0500 From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Pelican Jackplate Marco......with all the lawsuits in the country, I personally decided to overbuild my jackplate (and give it a lifetime warranty). I decided to stay away from welds like the Pelican version. You don't have to worry about me continuing to overcharge people for the tools I make....the jackplate, wheel hangers, flat top jackstands, and garage designs are all limited production or custom. When I want a tool that doesn't exist, I make it ......and its a lot cheaper to do a production run of a few hundred than just one or two. SD ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:37:18 -0500 From: "Olsen, Mike (Morse TEC Ithaca)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 won't start - some questions Hi all, My '88 325iC w/ 159K will crank and crank, but not catch. Ran fine the day before, then yesterday morning I swear it was about to catch and I accidentally let the key go too soon. From then on I've been cranking to no avail. I first changed spark plugs, as I've had fouling in the ///M before and this was the fix. Didn't help this time. Pulled a plug and held it to the exhaust header. My buddy says he sees spark, but that it's "weak". I'm not sure what to make of that, and I didn't look for myself yet. Wires are old, but cap & rotor were replaced within the last 15K. Any thoughts? I used Bentley's procedure to check the main relay next. Power to relay all checks out, then he says to check at the idle stabilizer harness plug for output from the relay. I get the 12V from center connector to ground, but he says I should get 10V from center to each outer connector. I get 10V to one, but only 4V to the other. I didn't see where he told me what this means.....any input? If I remember, as you hold the plug with the metal tab facing upward while working from the driver's side of the car, I got 10V to the wire on the left (front of car), and 4V to the wire on the right (rear of car). Fuse 11 for the fuel pump tested fine. Other than those questions, I intend to go through Bentley's steps for checking spark, timing, and fuel. It's got to be one of them...what do you use for the quickest (first level) fuel test? The plugs did not look very wet when I pulled them, and I don't smell gas after I've cranked it over for a number of seconds...so I'm wondering about it. The cold weather of Central NY isn't helping either. It's in a garage, but unheated. 8^( Thanks, Mike Olsen ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:16:02 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts Spec is 80 for dry clean threads. Torque is way too variable, especially for wheel bolts that are dirty and imperfect. I torque by hand to the "hard spot" and liberally use anti-seize on the threads and taper. I end up at around 50 ft-lb this way. Works for me, bolts always stay tight. YMMV yadda yadda. Bolts stay tight not from torque per se, but from stretch. Lubricating the threads means less torque is needed for a given bolt stretch. With no lube, the taper chews up the aluminum wheel each time the wheel is installed. Torque becomes less and less accurate. Gary Derian > I changed over to my snow tires two days before the first snowfall here in > Kansas City. This required standing on an 18" breaker bar to loosen the > wheel bolts put on by the tire place I usually use. I went in and asked him > if he torqued them to specs as I requested (71 +/- 7 ft. lbs.). He said he > put them on at 100 ft. lbs.because he found that wheel bolts back out if he > does not do that. > > I have never had a problem with this shop before and when I checked the > bolts on my other car that he worked on they were torqued properly. My BMW > rotors show no sign of warping. I have had wheel bolts back out that I had > torqued to specs so I retorque wheel nuts after a few weeks of driving. > > Is it possible that the shop did indeed torque the bolts to 100 ft. lbs. as > claimed? Is 100 ft. lbs. excessive? Could it be that the wheel bolts > seized? (They are four years old and I never use grease or anti seize on > wheel bolts.) Is the most likely answer here that there is an air wrench > happy mechanic that does not have an wrench with a torque setting and is too > lazy to use a torque wrench? Do I need to go back to watching my wheels > installed or do it myself? > > Burt > 98 M3 > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6048 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
