[uucdigest]         Friday, January 24 2003         Volume 03 : Number 6052



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)
       Re: [uuc] Retrofit M3 suspension to 94 325
       Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)
       Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)
       [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)
       Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)
       [uuc] On eBay, know anyone with a "Z" car?
       [uuc] Tranny bearings starting to growl a bit - secret sauce?
       [uuc] RE: Best Tool
       RE: [uuc] Tranny bearings starting to growl a bit - secret sauce?
       [uuc] 318 Idles rough, dies
       Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 01:16:02 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)

So you're saying that with a complete change in tire, you believe the
difference you felt was from the 4.2lb wheel covers?

You wouldn't think that a totally different set of rubber with
different stiction and sidewall characteristics might be a component
to the driving feel and feedback?

- - Rob


- ---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)

>Rob,
>
>I certainly noticed the difference, wasn't hard, I weighed them on a 
>scale! 4.2 lbs. per wheel going from stock with center hubs with
>Pirelli 
>P7000 to E34 (no stars, no fans, Mercedes center caps with roundels) 
>with Pilot Sport A/S.
>
>Ed

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 22:17:55 -0800
From: marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Retrofit M3 suspension to 94 325

You're welcome ;-)

Hope it worked out for you.

M

Matt Tremmel wrote:
> The M3 and 325i/is front swaybars are interchangeable.  The bars are the
> same, just attach
> to different points (control arms on the 325, the struts on the M3). The
> links are what makes them
> "different").
> 
>  I have a 95 M3 swaybar in my 94 325is right now (Thanks Marco!).
> 
> Matt T.
> 1994 325is
> 
> 
>>For example, taking the 325i sport swaybar and connecting it to a front M3
> 
> strut?
> 
> 
>>Just wondering.. :)
> 
> 
>>Jesse C
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 08:15:55 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)

According to BMW info, and my own inspection of the turbine wheels, the air
flows into the brakes near the hub, and flows away from the brakes near the
rim.  The front brake rotor takes its cooling air from the outside, and the
dust shield is solid, although it is scooped to pull in some air.  I forget
if the rear brakes rotors pull air from the inside or outside.

Most every other car, including BMW, take cool air from air dam scoops, and
feed the brakes from the inside then exhaust to the outside.  This, I
believe, is a better way to cool.  To make an M5 cool better, one should
change all the components, rotors, dust shields, wheel turbines, and add
scoops.

As for the "venturi effect" more properly referred to as the Bernoulli
effect, I don't see how that applies to the underside of an M5.  The
underside of most cars is a positive pressure area, only with very careful
air management and tunnels can a negative pressure be generated underneath a
car.  Such cars have all sorts of vents on the top side to exhaust air.

Removing brake dust shields is a bad idea as water and dirt, stones, etc.
can get to the brakes and cause problems.  This happens even in the absence
of the Bernoulli effect.  Stuff gets in the brakes even with the shields in
place, just less of it.  It gets there because the brakes are close to the
ground which is where the stuff is.  The front tires kick up stuff and it
gets all over the place.

If brake cooling is your #1 concern, and takes priority over other
considerations, then go ahead and remove the brake shields.

Gary Derian


> I was wondering if anybody knew the exact way an E34
> M5 moves air through the rear brakes. If you remove
> the M-System covers on the rear axle, people have said
> you will possibly damage the brake rotors becasue
> gravel and other debris will be sucked onto the
> brakes. It is sometimes referred to as the "Venturi
> Effect."
>
> I have a feeling that the E34 M5 (and most BMWs) blow
> air out from the inside of the wheel, and that is the
> reason BMW's have problems (well, the owners do) with
> brake dust coating the wheels.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul DeWitt
> 1988 M5

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 11:42:13 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)

Rob, et al:

Clearly my my meaning wasn't conveyed properly.

The fan wheel covers never entered into the equation, for they were 
never on the car and I don't know what they weigh. If it is 4.2 lbs, it 
is coincidence.

I was comparing stock E28 basketweave wheels with E34 turbine wheels 
without turbine covers, and with tires mounted.

I was talking about noticing any increase in rear brake damage due to 
the influx of debris and off-handed closed with "no difference except 
for the reduced weight" due to the fact that the apparent difference to 
a casual observer is the fact that you see the entire braking assembly 
with the bare wheels as opposed to seeing none of the braking assembly 
with the stock basketweave wheels.

In fact, I notice a great increase in control, a little increase in 
noise vibration and harshness due to less sidewall, higher tire prices 
in the 17" size and greatly decreased cleaning times of the wheels.

Ed

Ed

Rob Levinson wrote:

>So you're saying that with a complete change in tire, you believe the
>difference you felt was from the 4.2lb wheel covers?
>
>You wouldn't think that a totally different set of rubber with
>different stiction and sidewall characteristics might be a component
>to the driving feel and feedback?
>
>- Rob
>
>
>---- Original Message ----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)
>
>  
>
>>Rob,
>>
>>I certainly noticed the difference, wasn't hard, I weighed them on a 
>>scale! 4.2 lbs. per wheel going from stock with center hubs with
>>Pirelli 
>>P7000 to E34 (no stars, no fans, Mercedes center caps with roundels) 
>>with Pilot Sport A/S.
>>
>>Ed
>>    
>>
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 10:19:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)

Paul/Michael:

This is a simple matter to resolve.  Take the wheel to
a tire shop with cover and have them spin it on the
balancer and feel where the air goes.  A colored
streamer may be of use!  Or, jack up the car and spin
the rear wheels in 1st/Reverse gear or something.

Mr. Steve Castle of Atlanta did this and reported the
results on his in-garage Hunter 9700 (impeccable
taste, I say!), but I cannot recall his findings.

I'd love to see an M5 driving on a dusty road with the
swirl pattern from the wheels!  John Frankenheimer,
are you listening?  As a child, the delta-wing swirl
from the Concorde greatly impressed me.  About 12
years later I sat at London-Heathrow watching them
take off and land and thought nothing of it.

Neil Deshpande

***

"Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I don't have a knowledgeable answer, but I find that
HIGHLY unlikely or they would not have changed wheel
covers on the M5.  I have never heard of such issues
and nor do I remotely believe it either, 

***

I was wondering if anybody knew the exact way an E34
M5 moves air through the rear brakes. If you remove
the M-System covers on the rear axle, people have said
you will possibly damage the brake rotors becasue
gravel and other debris will be sucked onto the
brakes. It is sometimes referred to as the "Venturi
Effect." 

I have a feeling that the E34 M5 (and most BMWs) blow
air out from the inside of the wheel, and that is the
reason BMW's have problems (well, the owners do) with
brake dust coating the wheels. 

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Paul DeWitt
1988 M5   

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 12:37:11 -0600
From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] BMW Brake Ventilation (E34 M5)

Not likely: John Frankenheimer, 1930-2002

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/2108700.stm

Neil Deshpande wrote:

>I'd love to see an M5 driving on a dusty road with the
>swirl pattern from the wheels!  John Frankenheimer,
>are you listening?  
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 15:02:18 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] On eBay, know anyone with a "Z" car?

I am selling this item at eBayMotors.

Title of item:  BMW Genuine Key Ring Z1 Z3 Z4 Z8 Rare
Seller: macvaugh
Starts: Jan-19-03 20:15:59 PST
Ends:   Jan-26-03 20:15:59 PST
Price:  Currently $4.50
To bid on the item, go to:      
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400770355

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 12:12:35 -0800
From: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Tranny bearings starting to growl a bit - secret sauce?

The tranny bearings in my E-34 Getrag 260/6 are starting to show their age.
While the unit shifts well, the bearings are starting to noticably growl
especially under load.  I've been told this growling is not necessarily a
sign of impending death...that's it reasonably common and there can be many
miles left in the unit.

The tranny calls for ATF and currently has Redline D4AFT installed.

Question:  Is there any recommended "secret sauce" (read: different lube)
that I might substitute into this unit to quell the noise a bit?

Redline tech support suggests MTL as a worth a try.  Any other thoughts?

TIA!

Jeff
90 535i

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 14:23:28 -0800
From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Best Tool

A while back I had asked about the "universal strut removal" tool ..... let me
tell you it's not universal. I is sized for the 27mm nut on the top of the strut
on an E23 nor does it have the correct center tool to hold the shaft. POS.

Has anyone ever used the lever type of ball joint removal tool? If so where can
a good brand be found. By good I mean robust and useful on tie rod and
potentially control arms or thrust arms.
 I broke the type that is a "half cylinder" with the inline screw.

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 17:44:22 -0500
From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Tranny bearings starting to growl a bit - secret sauce?

Before my gearbox was replaced I was running LubroMoly ATF and there moly
gear additive.  It was the best combo I found so far and as soon as I can
get my back strait it is probably going in the new gearbox as it is sticky
in the cold going into 1st and 2nd.  The old was too on both the factory
stuff, MTL and Mobil 1 ATF, but worked great with the above combo until the
bad shift shaft finally kicked in...factory defect.

David

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of JSN
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 3:13 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Tranny bearings starting to growl a bit - secret sauce?


The tranny bearings in my E-34 Getrag 260/6 are starting to show their age.
While the unit shifts well, the bearings are starting to noticably growl
especially under load.  I've been told this growling is not necessarily a
sign of impending death...that's it reasonably common and there can be many
miles left in the unit.

The tranny calls for ATF and currently has Redline D4AFT installed.

Question:  Is there any recommended "secret sauce" (read: different lube)
that I might substitute into this unit to quell the noise a bit?

Redline tech support suggests MTL as a worth a try.  Any other thoughts?

TIA!

Jeff
90 535i

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 16:52:48 -0600
From: Robert Phelan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 318 Idles rough, dies

I'm helping someone with a mid-80s 318i and will run and drive fine 
so long as  you're on the throttle.. but about 10 seconds of idle 
will start it wavering up and down until finally about 10 seconds 
later, the car stalls.  The airflow meter is brand new, the throttle 
position switch sounds like it's adjusted properly, and if you yank 
the wires off the ICV, the same thing happens.

I've never dealt much with 318s or idle problems, so I'm at a bit of 
a loss as to what to do/check.  The owner of this car is going 
through a lot and I'm trying to get this fixed for her as quickly as 
I can.  Quick ideas would be very appreciated.

Thanks,
Robert
- -- 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 18:50:15 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool

I have a JC Whitney lever type ball joint remover.  It works OK but doesn't
fit BMW joints very well.  A little grinding may help.

My favorite way to remove ball joints is to thread a solid nut, such as an
acorn nut or a coupling nut onto the threads and hit with a hammer.  Make
sure you engage many threads so you don't damage them.

Another way is to place a separating force on the joint with a crowbar, then
hit the part with the tapered hole using a large hammer (2 lb or so).  This
distorts the hole and the joint pops apart.

Gary Derian


> A while back I had asked about the "universal strut removal" tool .....
let me
> tell you it's not universal. I is sized for the 27mm nut on the top of the
strut
> on an E23 nor does it have the correct center tool to hold the shaft. POS.
>
> Has anyone ever used the lever type of ball joint removal tool? If so
where can
> a good brand be found. By good I mean robust and useful on tie rod and
> potentially control arms or thrust arms.
>  I broke the type that is a "half cylinder" with the inline screw.
>
> -Kevin
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6052
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