[uucdigest] Friday, January 24 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6053
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts [uuc] "Flirting with Diaster" or "How I like my Pelican Parts Jack Pad" [uuc] E34 M5 Brake Ventilation Re: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts [uuc] RE: BMW Brake Ventilation RE: [uuc] 318 Idles rough, dies RE: [uuc] RE: Best Tool RE: [uuc] "Flirting with Diaster" or "How I like my Pelican Parts Jack Pad"--now Accusump??? RE: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts [uuc] -now Accusump??? Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 19:28:43 -0500 From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts I've heard several people over the last few years swear off anti-seize on lug bolts because they feel the lube on the threads will allow the fastener to back out. My understanding of bolted joints leads me to think otherwise. The lube on the threads (and tapered seat) actually help to provide a better bolted joint. The bolt can be thought of as a spring that holds two things together. As with any spring, if it goes to zero length (no tension), it can no longer hold the pieces together. Consequently, maximizing the stretch is good (without yielding the bolt, though). The angle of the female threads (nut) work to stretch the bolt since the head of the bolt cannot move. Some of the torque applied goes to stretching the bolt, some to the friction of the threads and some to the friction of the bolt head/washer/part joint. If the friction can be reduced on both the head and threads, more torque can go to stretching the capscrew. This is why headbolts are lubed with engine oil before ass'y. This is also a benefit to using a threadlock fluid. I don't go crazy with the lube, but I don't make sure there's no lube on the tapers and I've never had a problem with relaxation. I use 80 ft-lb on my 4 bolt pattern E30. I torque when first back on the ground, then drive around the block and retorque. Periodic checking has never shown a loose bolt. Nothing wrong with the way David does it, just another data point... I would be a bit worried about 100 ft-lb simply because I don't have a problem with 80 ft-lbs. My brother's F250 requires 120ft-lbs (with studs and nuts). ****************** OOps. should have read this first...see my earlier post about the new info in the roundel. I actually use 80 ft lbs and use a small amount of LubroMoly LM-508 ant-seize on the threads, making sure none is on the taper seat. I have no problems loosening or being too tight to remove. David *************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 16:59:46 -0800 From: marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] "Flirting with Diaster" or "How I like my Pelican Parts Jack Pad" Today Mr. Mailman delivered the pelican parts jack pad. So of course I tried it immediately on my racecar. With my $200 HF aluminum jack. But since I'm a cautious type of guy and being warned about $200 jacks and $30 jack pads I donned my racing helmet, nomex, life preserver and oven mitts before risking life and limb. I also got one of those "I've fallen and can't get up" RF transmitters just In case the whole cheap contraption created some vortex and sucked me under the car and immediately dropped the car on my leg. Now I know everyone is holding their breath but you smarter ones will realize that since I'm emailing this report I'm still alive. Others probably wish I were trapped under the car. ;-) Seriously, the fit and finish on the jack pad was better than I expected but definitely not as nice as the UG version, which should last until the sun goes supernova. Functionality wise it's equal. The welds look as good as the welds on my rollcage and as good as the ones I've seen on US Navy ships (but those were made by the lowest bidder) so I'm pretty confident this thing won't kill me. So if you got to have the very best buy the UG jack pad and the $600 aluminum jacks. You'll sleep better. But if you're a cheap bastard like myself and you like to throw caution to the wind go for it. With the money I saved on the combination I bought an Accusump. Cheers, Marco ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 16:55:44 -0800 (PST) From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E34 M5 Brake Ventilation Don't worry about the rear brakes. They simply don't get that hot. My pads and rotors last forever in back and I track the car a lot. In the front, I run the turbines, have some driving light NACA ducts running 3" hose to the caliper and also opened the tunnel in the wheel well that runs to the space right next to the driving light. You can remove the covers at the track and presto, instant ducting. You just have to use a saw to cut the whole inside the well. The metal there is quite soft and it is not a big deal. This seems to help quite a bit. I am running the 345mm floating rotors up front. They never fade but I can get a soft pedal. Kevin Kelly '91 M5 __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 19:58:31 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts 80 ft-lb is for dry threads. Any lube and the torque should be reduced. As I've said before, mine come out to about 50 ft-lb. Gary Derian > I've heard several people over the last few years swear off anti-seize > on lug bolts because they feel the lube on the threads will allow the > fastener to back out. > My understanding of bolted joints leads me to think otherwise. > The lube on the threads (and tapered seat) actually help to provide a > better bolted joint. > The bolt can be thought of as a spring that holds two things together. > As with any spring, if it goes to zero length (no tension), it can no > longer hold the pieces together. Consequently, maximizing the stretch > is good (without yielding the bolt, though). > The angle of the female threads (nut) work to stretch the bolt since the > head of the bolt cannot move. Some of the torque applied goes to > stretching the bolt, some to the friction of the threads and some to the > friction of the bolt head/washer/part joint. If the friction can be > reduced on both the head and threads, more torque can go to stretching > the capscrew. This is why headbolts are lubed with engine oil before > ass'y. This is also a benefit to using a threadlock fluid. > > I don't go crazy with the lube, but I don't make sure there's no lube on > the tapers and I've never had a problem with relaxation. I use 80 ft-lb > on my 4 bolt pattern E30. I torque when first back on the ground, then > drive around the block and retorque. Periodic checking has never shown > a loose bolt. > > Nothing wrong with the way David does it, just another data point... > > I would be a bit worried about 100 ft-lb simply because I don't have a > problem with 80 ft-lbs. My brother's F250 requires 120ft-lbs (with > studs and nuts). > ****************** > OOps. should have read this first...see my earlier post about the new > info in the roundel. I actually use 80 ft lbs and use a small amount of > LubroMoly LM-508 ant-seize on the threads, making sure none is on the > taper seat. I have no problems loosening or being too tight to remove. > > David > *************** > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 17:26:26 -0800 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: BMW Brake Ventilation Paul, Fess up you really want to maximize the vortex so that you can flip the pesky Acura's when they're on your tail at the track. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 17:31:15 -0800 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] 318 Idles rough, dies Robert, Slight vacuum leak. Check the intake boot , usually the underside has cracks. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 17:34:39 -0800 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: Best Tool Gary, did all that and more (recent Brett advice was helpful) but I guess after 17 years that tie rod end was being difficult. It didn't budge. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 22:29:56 -0500 From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] "Flirting with Diaster" or "How I like my Pelican Parts Jack Pad"--now Accusump??? You should not have said that...Accusump...what is the word on these wonders of lubrication??? I am thinking of adding one to my truck for it's prelube effects. I have a new to me used GMC with the 6.0 liter motor and some serious piston slap on cold starts. I am thinking of going Amsoil and Accusump. Any input??? David - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of marco Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 8:00 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] "Flirting with Diaster" or "How I like my Pelican Parts Jack Pad" Today Mr. Mailman delivered the pelican parts jack pad. So of course I tried it immediately on my racecar. With my $200 HF aluminum jack. But since I'm a cautious type of guy and being warned about $200 jacks and $30 jack pads I donned my racing helmet, nomex, life preserver and oven mitts before risking life and limb. I also got one of those "I've fallen and can't get up" RF transmitters just In case the whole cheap contraption created some vortex and sucked me under the car and immediately dropped the car on my leg. Now I know everyone is holding their breath but you smarter ones will realize that since I'm emailing this report I'm still alive. Others probably wish I were trapped under the car. ;-) Seriously, the fit and finish on the jack pad was better than I expected but definitely not as nice as the UG version, which should last until the sun goes supernova. Functionality wise it's equal. The welds look as good as the welds on my rollcage and as good as the ones I've seen on US Navy ships (but those were made by the lowest bidder) so I'm pretty confident this thing won't kill me. So if you got to have the very best buy the UG jack pad and the $600 aluminum jacks. You'll sleep better. But if you're a cheap bastard like myself and you like to throw caution to the wind go for it. With the money I saved on the combination I bought an Accusump. Cheers, Marco ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 22:35:23 -0500 From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts My worry is my GMC...140 ft lbs...I am a big guy, but throw in some corrosion and it is getting iffy...I plan on using the LubroMoly on it too. David - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Andy Messer Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 7:29 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [uuc] Torque for wheel bolts I've heard several people over the last few years swear off anti-seize on lug bolts because they feel the lube on the threads will allow the fastener to back out. My understanding of bolted joints leads me to think otherwise. The lube on the threads (and tapered seat) actually help to provide a better bolted joint. The bolt can be thought of as a spring that holds two things together. As with any spring, if it goes to zero length (no tension), it can no longer hold the pieces together. Consequently, maximizing the stretch is good (without yielding the bolt, though). The angle of the female threads (nut) work to stretch the bolt since the head of the bolt cannot move. Some of the torque applied goes to stretching the bolt, some to the friction of the threads and some to the friction of the bolt head/washer/part joint. If the friction can be reduced on both the head and threads, more torque can go to stretching the capscrew. This is why headbolts are lubed with engine oil before ass'y. This is also a benefit to using a threadlock fluid. I don't go crazy with the lube, but I don't make sure there's no lube on the tapers and I've never had a problem with relaxation. I use 80 ft-lb on my 4 bolt pattern E30. I torque when first back on the ground, then drive around the block and retorque. Periodic checking has never shown a loose bolt. Nothing wrong with the way David does it, just another data point... I would be a bit worried about 100 ft-lb simply because I don't have a problem with 80 ft-lbs. My brother's F250 requires 120ft-lbs (with studs and nuts). ****************** OOps. should have read this first...see my earlier post about the new info in the roundel. I actually use 80 ft lbs and use a small amount of LubroMoly LM-508 ant-seize on the threads, making sure none is on the taper seat. I have no problems loosening or being too tight to remove. David *************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 22:55:15 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] -now Accusump??? It won't help piston slap. Gary Derian > You should not have said that...Accusump...what is the word on these wonders > of lubrication??? I am thinking of adding one to my truck for it's prelube > effects. I have a new to me used GMC with the 6.0 liter motor and some > serious piston slap on cold starts. I am thinking of going Amsoil and > Accusump. > > Any input??? > > David ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 22:55:53 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool They do get that way sometimes :-(. Gary Derian > Gary, > did all that and more (recent Brett advice was helpful) but I guess after 17 > years that tie rod end was being difficult. > It didn't budge. > > -Kevin > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6053 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
