[uucdigest] Monday, January 27 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6061
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Bosch Fuel Pressure Regulator Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool [uuc] RE: 325iS will not start [uuc] Martini Racing Photos? [uuc] RE: Effective best tools RE: [uuc] RE: E30 won't start - some questions RE: [uuc] [M3] Rumbling under acceleration....& the crooked driveline Re: [uuc] Shop for pre-purchase inspection in Portland OR? RE: [uuc] RE: Effective best tools RE: [uuc] [M3] Rumbling under acceleration....& the crooked driveline ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:47:24 -0800 From: Jason Leung <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Bosch Fuel Pressure Regulator This is not exactly a BMW question but this motley collection of BMW motorheads imho is an excellent source of technical information so please forgive me brief off topic posting, but it *is* about Bosch. Anybody know of a lookup source for Bosch parts? Not including my friendly Bosch dealer? I have a Citroen CX. Most parts houses here in the States don't know what this is.... so its pointless to ask them. I need to figure out what Bosch Fuel Pressure regulator is used in my Citroen LH-Jetronic car as my regulator is faulty. (Loses fuel pressure over time as the car sits.) Thanks. I check the Bosch UK and US websites and there is no parts lookup ability. Best, Jason Leung '92 332i ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 12:02:05 -0800 (PST) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool - --0-1583489798-1043697725=:62325 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I just saw that Snap-On has two sets of spring compressors available - one for MacPherson type springs and one for coil springs. The shape and operation of the coil spring unit looked unfamiliar to me, while the MacPherson one seemed to be the standard threaded bolt with opposing hooks. This set was only around $60, while the coil spring compressor was closer to $200. Not sure how much HF's are, but it can't be too much less than $60. KKiely <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Guys, The original thread was a comment about the "universal strut" tool which removes the nut from the strut while holding the strut shaft..... but this tangent is a good one as the harbor freight spring compressor also leaves much to be desired. The threads are showing wear (shavings) after only two springs. They're now slathered with a good dose of moly bearing lube. The universal strut "nut" tool wasn't applicable because for the E23 the strut nut was about 27mm and the shaft top was a 12mm( or was it 11?) neither of which was supported on the tool. - -Kevin - --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now - --0-1583489798-1043697725=:62325 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <P>I just saw that Snap-On has two sets of spring compressors available - one for MacPherson type springs and one for coil springs. The shape and operation of the coil spring unit looked unfamiliar to me, while the MacPherson one seemed to be the standard threaded bolt with opposing hooks. This set was only around $60, while the coil spring compressor was closer to $200. <P>Not sure how much HF's are, but it can't be too much less than $60. <P> <B><I>KKiely <[EMAIL PROTECTED]></I></B> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Guys,<BR><BR>The original thread was a comment about the "universal strut" tool which removes<BR>the nut from the strut while holding the strut shaft..... but this tangent is a<BR>good one as the harbor freight spring compressor also leaves much to be desired.<BR>The threads are showing wear (shavings) after only two springs. They're now<BR>slathered with a good dose of moly bearing lube.<BR><BR>The universal strut "nut" tool wasn't applicable because for the E23 the strut<BR>nut was about 27mm and the shaft top was a 12mm( or was it 11?) neither of which<BR>was supported on the tool.<BR><BR>-Kevin<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br> <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! Mail Plus</a> - Powerful. Affordable. <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Sign up now</a> - --0-1583489798-1043697725=:62325-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 14:06:54 -0600 From: Robert Phelan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: 325iS will not start Woops! I stand corrected. I've got an 89 325is, what is that thing they plugged in the place of the CSV on the passenger side of the manifold? I've been working more on suspension and brakes and haven't been topside much trying to figure things out. I had an 86 325es previously and had thought that the <88 cars all had them. Learn something new every day :) Robert > >Robert > >The U.S. 1987 325is does not have a cold start injector. Cold starting is >controlled entirely by the ECU through the ICV and the injectors. The cap >and rotor suggestion is a good one. Pulling the plugs would at least let >you read them for rich/lean conditions or fouling. > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA >1990 325i - -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 12:20:25 -0800 From: "Polands" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Martini Racing Photos? I'm just forwarding this from the Ringers (Nurbergring) list: Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 19:54:20 +0100 To: "Ringers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From: "A C" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: VB: Martini BMW Story Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi. This mail was sent to me, and now I send it on to you in the Ringers to hea= r if there is one of you who have some of the pics he ask for. Lennart - -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- Fr=E5n: Wolfgang Thierack [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Skickat: den 23 januari 2003 21:26 Till: [EMAIL PROTECTED] =C4mne: Martini BMW Story Hello, myself and the Martini family at Adenau seach for pictures from Willi Martini and the wonderful race cars with he build between 1962 and 1966.Now= I found a picture from an accident with a MARTINI truck on Your page. Let m= e ask two questions: Can You help me to get this picture in a higher resolution for printing it in a book about Willi Martini. Do You kow anybody who has other pictures from the different MARTINI BMW 700, 2000and 1600 prototypes in the different races between 1963,1000 km an= d 1966 1000 km ?? I need also pictures from the Martini Glas 1300 RS and the Martini Mini Cooper for this story. Many thanks for helping Wolfgang Thierack Jahnstrasse 40 92421 Schwandorf Germany ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 12:49:35 -0800 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Effective best tools Found this and from an engineering standpoint it looks pretty good.... also in their catalog are the spring compressors described by Neil. http://www.mayhew.com/products/ball.htm - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 12:57:11 -0800 From: "Brant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: E30 won't start - some questions Mike - On my E34, I could not hear the pump with my head in the trunk. I had to remove the mat and the inspection port to clearly hear the pump. Buy yourself a cheap, acoustic automotive stethoscope. Put the point of it onto the pump with the pump relay jumpered. If it is running, there will be absolutely no doubt about it. With the same tool, put the point on the fuel rail. You should be able to hear the fuel flowing there. Brant <<<<<<From: "Olsen, Mike (Morse TEC Ithaca)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: E30 won't start - some questions . . . have come to what appears to be a dead in-tank fuel pump. . . . when I jumpered the fuel pump relay I did get 12V back at the pump connector. I cannot hear nor feel any buzzing of the pump, though. . . . . How loud are these pumps normally? Thanks again, Mike Olsen>>>>>> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:07:11 -0600 From: "Jefrem Iwaniw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] [M3] Rumbling under acceleration....& the crooked driveline you say you checked the motor mounts and they were fine -- what did this check include? did you actually jack-up/raise the motor and examine the subframe on the passenger side? my guess is a "bad thing" has happened on that side... hth, - -jefrem - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Robinson, Lee Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 7:26 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: [uuc] [M3] Rumbling under acceleration....& the crooked driveline Everyone, So the rumbling under acceleration still persists. The car exhibits several quick bangs under full throttle acceleration and only in 1st gear. Driveshaft is less then 1100 miles old. The center bearing & tranny mounts are now new. Looks like it's off to the U-joints. Hopefully it's there.....those would still be under warranty. :) Anyway, I replaced the tranny mounts today (I'll save the new permutations for 4-letter word combinations for another post). The nuts on the top studs are really a pain. Upgraded from the stock mounts to the sturdier 635/535 mounts. When I pulled the old mounts, the right mount was shorter by about 1/4". When compared to the replacement mounts, it was clear that the right mount had been compressed & the left mount had been stretched. After putting in the new mounts, it's pretty clear that they will suffer the same fate. The right mount already is compressed and the left mount didn't contact on top & bottom until the nuts were tightened. At least the sway bar doesn't touch the bell-housing with the suspension unloaded anymore. So on to the motor mounts I went (insert more snyde comments about how Germany lost the big wars....). They seem to be fine. Subframe is straight & the car looks straight. How the hell does my drivetrain sit in there a little crooked? I assume that if the tranny's crooked & the diff is straight, that has to be taken up some where.....like the U-joints on the driveshaft. I think it might be reasonable to assume any new driveshaft might fail quickly in this instance. Any ideas of what causes this crookedness? Any of how I might fix it? As always, thanks in advance, Lee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 13:18:32 -0800 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Shop for pre-purchase inspection in Portland OR? Kurt's suggestion list included Mike O'Hara, I can tell you that the aftermarket bushings that he sells are excellent. And his post sales service is also very good. Take this for what you will. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 13:31:28 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: Effective best tools I've seen one of those used before. Very effective, especially if you want to reuse the part in question. Pickle forks can really mess up the rubber dust boots. Marco - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of KKiely Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 12:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] RE: Effective best tools Found this and from an engineering standpoint it looks pretty good.... also in their catalog are the spring compressors described by Neil. http://www.mayhew.com/products/ball.htm - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 13:35:19 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] [M3] Rumbling under acceleration....& the crooked driveline I agree with Jefrem. Especially if it's an early production E36 M3 (not sure from your post if it's an E30 or E36). Front subframes in E36s were beefed up sometime in late 97ish. My original subframe was trashed after 3 years and about 20 driving schools. The replacement was sturdier than the original. Marco - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jefrem Iwaniw Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 1:07 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [uuc] [M3] Rumbling under acceleration....& the crooked driveline you say you checked the motor mounts and they were fine -- what did this check include? did you actually jack-up/raise the motor and examine the subframe on the passenger side? my guess is a "bad thing" has happened on that side... hth, - -jefrem - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Robinson, Lee Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 7:26 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: [uuc] [M3] Rumbling under acceleration....& the crooked driveline Everyone, So the rumbling under acceleration still persists. The car exhibits several quick bangs under full throttle acceleration and only in 1st gear. Driveshaft is less then 1100 miles old. The center bearing & tranny mounts are now new. Looks like it's off to the U-joints. Hopefully it's there.....those would still be under warranty. :) Anyway, I replaced the tranny mounts today (I'll save the new permutations for 4-letter word combinations for another post). The nuts on the top studs are really a pain. Upgraded from the stock mounts to the sturdier 635/535 mounts. When I pulled the old mounts, the right mount was shorter by about 1/4". When compared to the replacement mounts, it was clear that the right mount had been compressed & the left mount had been stretched. After putting in the new mounts, it's pretty clear that they will suffer the same fate. The right mount already is compressed and the left mount didn't contact on top & bottom until the nuts were tightened. At least the sway bar doesn't touch the bell-housing with the suspension unloaded anymore. So on to the motor mounts I went (insert more snyde comments about how Germany lost the big wars....). They seem to be fine. Subframe is straight & the car looks straight. How the hell does my drivetrain sit in there a little crooked? I assume that if the tranny's crooked & the diff is straight, that has to be taken up some where.....like the U-joints on the driveshaft. I think it might be reasonable to assume any new driveshaft might fail quickly in this instance. Any ideas of what causes this crookedness? Any of how I might fix it? As always, thanks in advance, Lee ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6061 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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